France - All White Wines

France is revered for its exceptional white wines, which showcase the country's rich winemaking heritage, diverse terroirs, and unwavering commitment to quality. Today, let us embark on a journey through the best white wines that France has to offer, exploring renowned vineyards and the regions that give birth to these extraordinary expressions.


In Burgundy, the appellations of ChablisMeursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet stand tall as the epitome of excellence in white wine production. Wineries such as Domaine Raveneau, Domaine Dauvissat, and Domaine Leflaive craft mesmerizing Chardonnays that capture the essence of the region's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils. These wines exhibit precision, purity, and a remarkable balance of mineral notes, citrus flavors, and vibrant acidity.


Moving to the Loire Valley, the vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are celebrated for their exceptional Sauvignon Blancs. Domaine Vacheron, Domaine Didier Dagueneau, and Domaine Pascal Jolivet create expressive and terroir-driven wines that showcase the region's distinct flinty minerality, zesty citrus, and herbaceous undertones.


Further northeast in France, in the region of Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Trimbach, and Domaine Weinbach produce stunning white wines from varietals like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. These wines display remarkable depth, aromatic complexity, and a balance between sweetness and acidity, reflecting the region's unique microclimates and granite-rich soils.


In Bordeaux, the region of Graves is renowned for its white wines, particularly those crafted from the classic grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Château Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier are esteemed vineyards that produce rich and age-worthy white Bordeaux wines. These wines exhibit a beautiful interplay of tropical fruit flavors, vibrant acidity, and a touch of toasty oak.


Finally, in the Rhône Valley, the appellation of Condrieu shines as a beacon of excellence in Viognier production. Renowned vineyards such as Domaine Georges Vernay and Domaine Yves Cuilleron create remarkable Viognier wines that seduce the senses with their exotic aromas of apricot, peach, and delicate floral notes. These wines showcase richness, elegance, and a silky texture that lingers on the palate.



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France - All White Wines

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Iconic French White: Raveneau; Leflaive; DRC; Haut Brion Blanc and Dageuneau

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Rhone 1 99 (WA) HK$4,460.00
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Wine Advocate (99)

It is no secret that I adore Chapoutier's luxury cuvee of white Hermitage called Cuvee L'Oree. Made from 90-year old vines and microscopic yields of 10-12 hectoliters per hectare, this wine flirts with perfection. It is a compelling white Hermitage. Made from 100% Marsanne, it is as rich and multidimensional as the fullest, most massive Montrachet money can buy. It is unctuously textured, yet extraordinarily and beautifully balanced. I suspect it will drink well early in life, and then shut down for a few years. It should last for 4-5 decades. The 1996 possesses some of the most amazing glycerin levels I have ever seen in a dry white wine. In short, this wine must be tasted to be believed. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
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Burgundy 1 - HK$49,395.00
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Burgundy 1 - HK$33,775.00
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Recognised as a masterpiece in viticulture, the d'Auvenay Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 1996 is a grand testament to the rich wine region of Burgundy, France. Birthed from limestone-rich soil and nourished by an ideal climate, this wine offers a sublime complexity only achieved through careful nurturing. Hand-harvested Chardonnay grapes are fermented using indigenous yeasts, capturing the signature mineral and floral aesthetics unique to Les Folatieres vineyard.

The guiding hand behind this finish is none other than Lalou Bize-Leroy, co-owner of Domaine Leroy. Her strict vitality-driven approach in wine making, coupled with organic and biodynamic farming principles, enhances the pure expression of terroir in this 1996 vintage. This wine has aged gracefully, delivering a sensual bouquet of green apple, pear, almond and a whisper of vanilla. On the palate, it stands out for its refined acidity, seamless texture and long, persistent finish, making it a perfect example of the excellence of d'Auvenay Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 1996.

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Bordeaux 1 96 (WS) HK$12,310.00
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Wine Spectator (96)

This leans toward the tropical side, with mango and guava notes out front, while maple, date, blood orange and citrus oil flavors fill in behind. The finish kicks into another gear, taking off with honeysuckle, orange blossom and frangipane accents. Has almost unbridled power today, while maintaining serious cut. A very impressive showing in a rather overlooked vintage.
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Bordeaux 1 96 (WS) HK$13,045.00
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Wine Spectator (96)

This leans toward the tropical side, with mango and guava notes out front, while maple, date, blood orange and citrus oil flavors fill in behind. The finish kicks into another gear, taking off with honeysuckle, orange blossom and frangipane accents. Has almost unbridled power today, while maintaining serious cut. A very impressive showing in a rather overlooked vintage.
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Burgundy 1 - HK$5,495.00
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Loire 1 90 (VN) HK$3,115.00
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Vinous (90)

Nineteen nighty six wasn't a legendary vintage unlike the season that would follow. The 1996 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon, a product of a fairly warm season, it is not overtly warm in its fruit profile with some lightly botrytised spice character, plus a rose-like scent, apricots and almonds. With just 76g/L of residual sugar it's not the sweetest interpretation, but its joy is its super smooth, refined texture. Medium length.
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Burgundy 1 94 (BH) HK$54,455.00
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Burghound (94)

An exceptionally attractive and impressively complex white flower, spice and crushed herb aromas are trimmed in noticeable wood toast and lead to rich, nicely powerful and gorgeously detailed flavors of equally impressive depth and excellent finishing persistence. This is a really lovely if just shy of truly compelling Bâtard that is drinking well now though will continue to hold without difficulty in this format, indeed it should be capable of holding for another 20 years. Tasted twice with consistent notes.
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Bordeaux 2 90 (VN (ST)) HK$4,610.00
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Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (90)

Straw-gold. Marzipan, honey and toasted hazelnut on the nose. Moderately viscous and currently rather oaky. Has an impressively chewy texture but is not yet displaying its personality. Finishes with some youthful harshness. The '97 is at once stronger and finer.
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Burgundy 1 93 (VN) HK$82,060.00
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Vinous (93)

Palish straw-yellow color; less bright than some vintages in this tasting. (I've seen published tasting notes on this wine dating back as far as a decade that described it as distinctly golden in color, but not this bottle!) Rather wild aromas of hawthorn, acacia flower, chalk and cedar, plus a hint of truffle; not about fruit. Powerful, large-scaled and penetrating on the palate; densely packed but a bit disjointed owing to its combination of sweetness and bracing acidity. Conveys a rare impression of solidity for Chablis, suggesting that it will live on in bottle for many more years. But will it ever truly be fun to drink? Dauvissat noted that there was not a lot of juice in the press in '96, and the wine is clearly high in dry extract. This wine actually finished its malolactic fermentation after the '97 Clos did, and it was bottled later than that wine. (Dauvissat described this wine as le monstre--a bit special for its combination of huge alcohol, gras and very high acidity; he picked what he described as a normal crop on September 23 with potential alcohol ranging from 12.5% to 14.5% and the wine finished with between 5 and 5.5 grams per liter acidity)
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