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    Armand Rousseau

    Usually mentioned in the same breadth as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leroy, Armand Rousseau has established itself as a legendary producer owning mostly Grand Cru vineyards in Gevrey Chambertin.

     

    Born in 1884 to a family deeply entrenched in the wine trade, Armand Rousseau inherited several plots and the current domaine building, one of the oldest in Gevrey-Chambertin, as part of his wedding in 1909. After acquiring more plots in Charmes-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche and Chambertin in the late 1910s and 1920s, the domaine became one of the first in Burgundy to bottle his own wine. Rousseau’s wines were also amongst the first to hit the shores of the United States after the Prohibition, and his focus on exporting his wine is shared by his son Charles, who took over the reins in 1959 after Armand was unfortunately killed in a car accident. Today, the domaine is run by Charles’s son, Eric, who is also the winemaker.



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    Burgundy 1 96 (WS) HK$177,740.00
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    Wine Spectator (96)

    Though compact now, this is full of sweet black cherry, black currant, licorice and mineral aromas and flavors. There's a harmonious feeling overall, with dense, well-integrated tannins and bright acidity, followed by a fine, lingering aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2032. 27 cases imported. -BS
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    Burgundy 1 96 (VN) HK$301,545.00
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    Vinous (96)

    Rousseau's 2002 Chambertin is in the zone. Succulent, racy and open, the 2002 is ready to deliver pleasure. The purity of the fruit alone is striking. Even so, the 2002 is still very much at the early part of its first plateau of maturity, as the flavors remain very bright and fresh. In this vertical, the 2002 comes across as a wine of immediacy, with a bit less structure and overall energy than the very best vintages. I say that with some hesitation, as the 2002 is exceptional. It is just a little less exceptional than a few of the other wines in this vertical.
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    Burgundy 2 92-95 (VN (ST)) HK$323,890.00
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    Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (92-95)

    Medium red. Precise, scented nose combines red cherry, minerals, stones, iron and rose petal. Penetrating, minerally and precise, with vibrant flavors of red cherry and raspberry. Conveys a real small-berry depth and intensity of flavor and offers great energy and verve. Not at all a fat style of 2003-or of Chambertin. Especially strong on the back half, finishing with terrific thrust and length.
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    Burgundy 1 93 (BH) HK$258,485.00
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    Burghound (93)

    The difference between Chambertin and Clos de Bèze is sharply etched in as this is cooler, bigger, richer and more powerful though less elegant and with a more limited range of spices specifically and aromatic breadth in general. The medium full flavors are reserved, tight, precise and very pure with extraordinarily good punch and precision, all wrapped in a firm, dusty and linear finish. I particularly like the mouth coating quality of the flavors as there is ample dry extract here, which serves to perfectly buffer the firmly tannic spine. Outstanding stuff and while not a truly great Rousseau Chambertin, it's knocking on the door.
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    Burgundy 1 96 (VN) HK$177,740.00
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    Vinous (96)

    Next came the 2007 Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau. Unlike the Mugnier, the bouquet needs no time to warm up, exploding with enticing scents of raspberry, mulberry, touches of camphor and undergrowth, and, after 30 minutes, hints of Japanese green tea and clove. Exquisite in definition, this remained captivating throughout the evening. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, cohesive and, for the 2007 vintage, quite robust and powerful. The velvety texture toward the finish highlights the lack of concentration in the Musigny. An utterly sublime Chambertin that is drinking perfectly now, the 2007 possesses the substance to mature another 20 years in bottle.
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    Burgundy 1 98 (BH) HK$266,560.00
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    Burghound (98)

    This is also ultra-pure and densely fruited with notes of anise, mint, wet stone and a sauvage hint that introduces intensely earthy and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that are rich, powerful, serious and densely concentrated, all wrapped in a silky, palate staining, explosive and colossally persistent finish. This is actually relatively expressive and approachable for a young Cham yet the balance and harmony is present for this to age for decades. A brilliant effort and one of the best vintages ever for this justifiably revered wine.
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    Burgundy 1 19 (JR) HK$173,055.00
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    Jancis Robinson (19)

    100% new oak. Not the flash appeal of the Clos de Bèze and it's so much more youthful but it’s a huge success in 2011. Chewy end and more muscular but it’s all there for the taking – except that it’s a bit tighter than Clos de Bèze so may be better to concentrate on the latter for the moment. Vibrant and resonant.
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    Burgundy 1 98+ (VN) HK$226,190.00
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    Vinous (98+)

    Bright medium red. Very pure but very reticent nose hints at blueberry, raspberry, licorice, game and woodsmoke. Delivers a compelling combination of fine-grained texture, deep sweetness and restrained power; still youthfully compressed but already boasts thrilling mouthfilling perfume of tart red fruits, spices and saline minerality. This spectacular Chambertin broadens out on the back half without giving any impression of weight. A wine of uncommon depth and class, with no sign of overripeness. With its salty, crushed-rock minerality, this wine saturates every square millimeter of the palate and stimulates the salivary glands on the sensationally long finish.
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    Burgundy 2 98 (WA) HK$204,650.00
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    Wine Advocate (98)

    Tasted from bottle, the 2016 Chambertin Grand Cru claims the place of king of the Rousseau cellar this year, soaring from the glass with a complex bouquet of ripe red berries, cherries and plums, complemented by nuances of blood orange, peonies, raw cocoa, grilled meats and spices. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with terrific concentration, lively acids and a muscular chassis of ripe tannins that's largely concealed by a prodigious core of fruit. Long, sapid and penetrating, like the Clos de Bèze, this will make for fascinating comparisons with its 2015 counterpart in two decades' time.
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    Burgundy 1 98 (VN) HK$162,465.00
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    Vinous (98)

    The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is just a glorious success. Vivid red fruit, Morello cherries, wild strawberry and pressed violets on the nose, the aromatics here feel so animated and exquisitely defined. The palate is perfectly balanced with a killer line of acidity: crystalline red fruit, filigree tannins and more freshness than it knows what to do with. There is a sense of "channeled intensity" in this Chambertin and whilst there is no question that it is a 20- to 30-years wine, I felt no guilt in polishing this off in its youth. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.
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    Burgundy 1 98 (VN) HK$193,885.00
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    Vinous (98)

    The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense, brilliantly-defined bouquet with laser-like precision, incredibly focused and perfectly integrated oak. Less generous than Bichot's Chambertin at the moment though - this is biding its time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, insistent grip and plenty of freshness. Maybe just a little more confit in style than others. Still, a fabulous Chambertin that gains clarity and precision in the glass. Effortless. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.
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    Burgundy 1 18 (JR) HK$158,240.00
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    Jancis Robinson (18)

    Cask sample. Mid-dark ruby. Sweet, red fruits (red cherry, laced with redcurrants and red-fruit coulis) this is glamorous, oozing refined, elegant luxury. There is fine, high-strung acidity which belies its firm, almost four-square structure. Very long, very fine, very nascent
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    Burgundy 1 18 (JR) HK$166,970.00
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    Jancis Robinson (18)

    Looks if anything less blue than most other vintages. Pretty complete and rich on the nose for a 2004! Most impressive… Very fruity and dense and exciting. Really lively and vigorous. Long. Lively cherry fruit.
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    Burgundy 1 96-98 (WA) HK$236,945.00
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    Wine Advocate (96-98)

    The 2005 Chambertin Clos de Beze offers alluring aromas of licorice, mint, vanilla, plum paste, cherry preserves and rose petals, and seduces the palate with silky, incredibly refined texture and several octaves of fruit, herbal, floral and mineral notes, leading to a reverberative finish in which fruit pit and stony, chalky elements lend a sense of dark, weighty authority and an umami-like, meaty savor promotes uncontrollable salivation. No layering or mixing of metaphors can hope to do justice to the layering and concatenation of flavors on display.
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    Burgundy 1 98 (BH) HK$199,265.00
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    Burghound (98)

    Here too there is just enough wood in evidence to mention on the gorgeously spiced and intricately layered aromas of essence of red currant, floral, plum, earth and a whisper of the sauvage. Once again the mouthfeel of the notably more imposingly-scaled flavors is sleek with excellent minerality that really comes up on the super-saline finish that goes on and on. But what I really admire about the '16 Bèze is the texture because it's at once muscular yet highly seductive and refined. This is a very, very powerful wine that is seriously impressive in every respect. In a word, brilliant.
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    Burgundy 1 95-98 (BH) HK$139,790.00
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    Burghound (95-98)

    While the wood treatment is certainly evident it's more subtle on the overtly cool and restrained nose that is markedly spicy with its combination of relatively high-toned aromas of red cherry, raspberry, rose petal and a suggestion of earth. There is excellent power and punch to the large-scaled flavors that are a combination of power and refinement while being blessed with an abundance of sappy dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mouth coating, hugely long and very firmly structured finish. It's going to be interesting in 25 or 30 years' time to see which of these is the better wine, assuming that one of them will be!
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    Burgundy 2 91 (WS) HK$37,045.00
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    Wine Spectator (91)

    Round and inviting. Shows milk chocolate, plum and mineral notes, with ample tannins that are soft and well-integrated. On the forward side, yet there's no rush to drink it. Best from 2008 through 2020. 28 cases imported. -BS
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    Burgundy 1 91-93 (WA) HK$66,825.00
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    Wine Advocate (91-93)

    The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin emerges from the glass with lovely radiance and openness in its ripe, juicy fruit. The Charmes is already rather forward, and at this stage appears to be a relatively early-maturing wine. The oak is also a bit pronounced. Sweet, textured floral notes wrap around the long, polished finish. Rousseau’s Charmes is technically 60% Mazoyeres. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2029.
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    Burgundy 1 92-94 (VN) HK$74,605.00
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    Vinous (92-94)

    The 2010 Charmes-Chambertin is deep, fleshy and totally seductive. It boasts striking inner perfume that serves as a recurring thread with which endless nuances of fruit are woven together. Finessed, silky tannins provide the backbone for all of the aromas and flavors to shine. I loved the integrity of the fruit in the Charmes. Rousseau's Charmes is roughly 60% Mazoyères and 40% true Charmes.
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    Burgundy 1 91 (VN) HK$55,650.00
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    Vinous (91)

    Red stone fruits, plums, menthol, rose petals and spices take shape nicely in the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin. In 2011, the Charmes-Chambertin is a bit savory and herbal, but it otherswise shows lovely balance and terrific overall depth in a pliant, mid-weight style that is best enjoyed over the next 10-15 years.
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    Burgundy 1 93-95 (VN) HK$50,695.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very precise and focused bouquet, almost the epitome of transparency and utterly encapsulating. There is real mineralité here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very tensile from the start with tart red cherries, Japanese yuzu and orange zest that fans out beautifully on the finish. This is a Charmes-Chambertin with a skip in its step.
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    Burgundy 1 18 (JR) HK$57,870.00
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    Jancis Robinson (18)

    Scented, red fruited, open. Then as it opens in the glass, it seems to become darker and more minerally, with stony finesse even with all this fruit. Lots of tension on the palate, partly from the freshness and partly from the tannins, which are dry and extremely fine. A caress with a firm hand. Then sweet again on the finish. On the finish this is long but seemingly gentle.
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    Burgundy 1 91-93 (VN) HK$41,520.00
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    Vinous (91-93)

    The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is very perfumed on the nose of rose-petal-infused red berry fruit, although I would like to see more complexity develop in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit on the entry, orange zest, and light, almost peachy notes that I would associate with a white wine. It does not possess the substance or grip of Rousseau’s other cuvées, although it does deliver a lovely silky texture and fine length.
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    Burgundy 1 94-96 (VN) HK$33,465.00
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    Vinous (94-96)

    The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a mixture of red and black fruit, beautifully delineated, hints of blood orange and crushed stone percolating through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, perfectly judged acidity, slightly granular in texture towards the finish that displays commendable weight and length. Again, there is just the right sapidity on the finish. Superb.
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    Burgundy 1 93 (BH) HK$35,000.00
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    Burghound (93)

    A discreet application of wood frames pure aromas of red cherries, just turned earth and a floral top note. The supple but racy middleweight flavors aren't quite as concentrated but they're finer with retaining good power on the sour cherry-inflected finale that delivers excellent length. Lovely and a wine that should also repay mid to longer-term keeping.
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    Burgundy 1 90 (WA) HK$77,945.00
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    Wine Advocate (90)

    The 1999 Clos de la Roche from Armand Rousseau went through an awkward youth, when it felt hard and rather disjointed. Now with 15 years on the clock, it is showing better than it used to. The nose is broody and taciturn at first, eventually revealing dusky, brambly red fruit with hints of cola and soy. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy core of red fruit and well-judged acidity. The tannins are much finer than I recall, having softened with time, and there is an appealing weightless intensity toward the finish. No, it is not one of the Charles Rousseau’s best 1999s, but it is finally beginning to show its class. Drink now-2020+. Tasted January 2014.
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    Burgundy 1 94-96+ (VN) HK$92,450.00
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    Vinous (94-96+)

    The 2010 Clos de la Roche is fascinating to taste after the Mazis. The Clos de la Roche is all about power, structure and length, qualities it has in spades. There is huge depth and serious extract to the fruit, with equally big tannins to provide support. Layers of intense fruit are intermingled with persistent saline notes on the vibrant, finely chiseled finish. It will take years for the tannins to start melting away, but when they do the 2010 will be a dazzling wine. Actually, it already is.
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    Burgundy 1 93-95 (VN) HK$62,490.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is highly perfumed on the nose, presenting an irresistible mixture of red and subtle blue fruit, very harmonious and exquisitely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. A feminine and very elegant Clos de la Roche that may well be earlier-drinking than others but feels very poised, with a touch of spice on the finish. Excellent.
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    Burgundy 1 93-95 (VN) HK$43,395.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is fragrant, delineated and coiled up at first, although it only takes a few swirls of the glass before it awakens. Crushed stone infuses the red fruit, and hints of oyster shells emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied and very cohesive, with finely-chiselled tannins and just a little confit red fruit that enlivens the finish, which demonstrates more persistence than the Mazy-Chambertin. Delightful.
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    Burgundy 1 92-94 (VN (ST)) HK$113,140.00
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    Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (92-94)

    Good bright, deep red. Highly perfumed aromas of blackberry, cherry, red licorice, rose petal, violet and spices, plus a suggestion of honey. Silky, intensely flavored and classy on the palate, with a compellingly perfumed quality that carries through to the mounting, palate-staining finish. Displays the electric quality of the vintage's better examples. This was 12.2% natural alcohol, chaptalized to 13%.
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