Maison M.Chapoutier
About Maison M.Chapoutier
Established in 1808, M. Chapoutier is one of the oldest producers in the Rhône Valley. But its current worldwide fame - and the quality of its wines today - can be credited to the arrival of Michel Chapoutier in 1990. His willingness to change established practices - plus his determination to reflect the full potential of individual terroirs - has cemented his reputation as one of the greatest winemakers in the world.
The seventh-generation bearing the Chapoutier name to craft wines within the Rhône, it is reasonable to say that Michel Chapoutier is one of the most important figures not only within his native region, but the whole of France given his impact on the world’s fine wine scene.
Travelling extensively throughout both the Old and New wine producing worlds in his youth, Michel returned to the Northern Rhône with both vigorous passion for his craft as well as extensive knowledge gathered from hundreds of traditional and revolutionary vignerons from around the globe. The most important, lasting lesson learnt was the importance of terroir and the expression of nature’s nuances – a principle clearly evident throughout the modern Chapoutier offerings.
Setting about purchasing shares in his family company until he possessed a managing control, the first act of this masterful figure at the helm of Chapoutier was a revolutionary conversion of the entire estate to biodynamic principles in order to respect and encourage the terroir. An unprecedented move considered to be extraordinarily risky at the time, today many of its peers are merely playing catch-up to this imperious producer at the very height of its powers.
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$8,695.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won't quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L'Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it's best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$14,435.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Marked by sensationally deep notes of crushed stone, cassis and blueberry, the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite is a tremendous effort and a worthy rival to the wines produced in the past four vintages. Full-bodied, it's rich and restrained, expansive yet structured—just a complete wine from mouthwatering aromas to velvety mouthfeel and long, stony finish. While delicious now, I'd expect it to close up shortly, yet still be going strong two decades from now. Wow! |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$28,925.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Since I reviewed the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc last year (98+), I had some doubts about spending the time to re-review it. But one taste had me transfixed. Hints of crushed stone and subtle oak appear on the nose, backed by waves of honeyed pear and pineapple, plus enough invigorating citrus to provide a sense of freshness. Full-bodied and rich without being heavy, this has come into its own, being incredibly long, balanced and ethereal on the finish. Amazing stuff! |
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Rhone | 1 | 97-99 (JD) | HK$9,850.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (97-99)Massive red and black fruits, smoked meats, graphite, asphalt, licorice, and ground pepper notes all soar from the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal, which is 100% Syrah from the more loess soils and full-south facing Méal lieu-dit. This puppy is locked and loaded on the palate, with a huge, rich, mouthfilling style, ripe tannins, and a blockbuster of a finish. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$7,880.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$10,205.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)The star of the show as well as one of the wines of this great vintage, the 2019 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes all from broken granite soils of the Bessards lieu-dit and was all destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and brought up in just 15% new French oak, with a tiny amount in a small foudre as well. The level of new oak continues to plummet at this estate, which around a decade ago or more was utilizing 100% new barrels. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it’s a perfect example of the Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove saying and has incredible opulence paired with precision and finesse. Giving up both blue and black fruits as well as powdered stone, violets, scorched earth, and subtle smoke, this is pure Hermitage magic and Syrah doesn’t get any better. It needs at least 7-8 years (a decade would be better) of bottle age and will be a 50-year wine. |
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Rhone | 6 | 98 (VN) | HK$6,385.00 | |||||
Vinous (98)Inky ruby. Smoke- and mineral-tinged aromas of ripe red and dark berries, pipe tobacco, olive paste, incense and vanilla, with a suave floral note building in the glass. Youthfully chewy and expansive on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, bitter cherry, licorice, cola, candied violet and allspice flavors that tighten up and become sweeter on the back half. Finishes sappy and extremely long, with resonating florality and mounting tannins that add shape and a firm closing grip. |
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Rhone | 4 | 96-98 (JD) | HK$7,220.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (96-98)The 2019 Saint Joseph Le Clos comes from higher elevation granite soils and is just about always in the running for the Saint Joseph of the vintage. Reminding me of the Vieilles Vignes cuvée from the Gonon brothers, this dense purple-hued effort offers incredible blackberry and smoked currant-like fruits as well as notes of violets, crushed stone, incense, and leather. It's a rich, full-bodied, incredibly impressive red that's going to take 4-5 years to shed some baby fat and keep for two decades. |
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