Jean-Louis Chave
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave is often called the “Pope of Hermitage”. From the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage in the norther Rhône, Chave’s traditionally made wine is the “top of the hierarchy” (Jeb Dunnuck) in Heritage. The Chave family owns plots in all 7 of the lieux-dits (special plots) on the famous Hermitage hill (see image below), which enables them to produce wines of stunning complexity and finesse.
Domaine Chave was founded in 1481. It has been blessed with an “incredible succession of talented vignerons” (Jeb Dunnuck) through the ages. Gérard Chave ran the estate until Gérard before slowly handing over to son Jean-Louis Chave. This is a traditional estate which keeps an eye on the future (a recently completed new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab). Vinification is in three large oak upright casks. Aging is in small French oak barrels with the amount of new oak falling in the 20-30% range. The wines are then blended in tank and bottled without being filtered. If needed, the wines can see a light egg-white fining before bottling.
Domaine Chave was founded in 1481. It has been blessed with an “incredible succession of talented vignerons” (Jeb Dunnuck) through the ages. Gérard Chave ran the estate until Gérard before slowly handing over to son Jean-Louis Chave. This is a traditional estate which keeps an eye on the future (a recently completed new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab). Vinification is in three large oak upright casks. Aging is in small French oak barrels with the amount of new oak falling in the 20-30% range. The wines are then blended in tank and bottled without being filtered. If needed, the wines can see a light egg-white fining before bottling.
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Rhone | 1 | 97 (WA) | HK$62,630.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)When I arrived at 6:00 p.m., September 11, 2001, at Domaine Chave, I found Chave in tears and his family distraught. I had heard about the attacks on the World Trade Center, but not the subsequent collapse of both towers. Gerard Chave knows all about suicidal bombers, having served in the French military during the Algerian revolution. It took a long time to gather sufficient focus to do my tastings. However, the brilliant wines that unfolded in the cellars were, at least for several hours, a much needed antidote for pushing to the back of my mind the horror of 9-11-01. |
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Rhone | 2 | 100 (WA) | HK$75,130.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Last year I gave the 2009 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin a three-digit rating, but it was nice to be able to re-taste it since it is largely impossible to find in the marketplace. Essentially 100% fruit from Les Bessards, this cuvee is only made in vintages where it will not compromise the integrity and quality of their standard Hermitage (although there is nothing standard about it). The Cuvee Cathelin sees more oak than its sibling, enjoys 50-75 years of aging potential, and boasts over-the-top blackberry and cassis fruit notes intertwined with pen ink, spring flower, graphite and subtle vanillin characteristics. It is a brilliant wine that almost defies description given its ethereal complexity allied to massive weight, power and richness. Yet, it never comes across as heavy or overly-extracted. Forget this for another decade and you and your progeny can enjoy it over the following 50-75 years. |
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Rhone | 2 | 97 (VN) | HK$6,505.00 | |||||
Vinous (97)The 1995 Hermitage, on the other hand, is totally sublime. Rose petal, black pepper, dried flowers and sage are some of the many Syrah-inflected aromas that blossom in the glass in a perfumed, sensual wine that captivates all of the senses. With just six people at the table, there is plenty of wine to go around. This is a dazzling showing. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$6,575.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)The greatest wines Chave has produced since 2003 are the two cuvees of 2009 Hermitage. The 2009 Hermitage exhibits a black/purple color along with a sumptuous nose of roasted meats, ground pepper, black currants, blackberry jam, and subtle smoke and licorice. The extraordinary bouquet is followed by a wine of extravagant intensity as well as tremendous focus and precision. While not as powerful as the blockbuster 2003, the amazing 2009 may turn out to be a modern day version of their magnificent 1990 (which is drinking incredibly well at present). Anyone who loves Hermitage and has a cold cellar should be lining up to get a few bottles of this beauty. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$6,860.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Pure perfection, the 2010 Hermitage reminds Jean-Louis Chave of their 1990. It appears to be a richer, fresher example of what I remember the 1990 tasting like in 1992. The wine exhibits an opaque purple color along with an extraordinary bouquet of sweet blackberry fruit intermixed with creme de cassis, lead pencil shavings, acacia flowers, bouquet garni, meat and crushed rocks. Full-bodied and stunningly rich with laser-like precision, this is a powerful, massive yet exceptionally well-balanced wine that should be forgotten for a decade and drunk over the following 30-40 years. |
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