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    Jean-Louis Chave

    Domaine Jean-Louis Chave is often called the “Pope of Hermitage”. From the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage in the norther Rhône, Chave’s traditionally made wine is the “top of the hierarchy” (Jeb Dunnuck) in Heritage. The Chave family owns plots in all 7 of the lieux-dits (special plots) on the famous Hermitage hill (see image below), which enables them to produce wines of stunning complexity and finesse.
    Domaine Chave was founded in 1481. It has been blessed with an “incredible succession of talented vignerons” (Jeb Dunnuck) through the ages. Gérard Chave ran the estate until Gérard before slowly handing over to son Jean-Louis Chave. This is a traditional estate which keeps an eye on the future (a recently completed new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab). Vinification is in three large oak upright casks. Aging is in small French oak barrels with the amount of new oak falling in the 20-30% range. The wines are then blended in tank and bottled without being filtered. If needed, the wines can see a light egg-white fining before bottling.

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    Product Name Region Qty Score Price
    Rhone 1 97 (WA) HK$505,365.00
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    Wine Advocate (97)

    When I arrived at 6:00 p.m., September 11, 2001, at Domaine Chave, I found Chave in tears and his family distraught. I had heard about the attacks on the World Trade Center, but not the subsequent collapse of both towers. Gerard Chave knows all about suicidal bombers, having served in the French military during the Algerian revolution. It took a long time to gather sufficient focus to do my tastings. However, the brilliant wines that unfolded in the cellars were, at least for several hours, a much needed antidote for pushing to the back of my mind the horror of 9-11-01.
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    Rhone 1 97 (VN) HK$462,770.00
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    Vinous (97)

    Chave’s 2000 Cuvée Cathelin was monumental. It was a privilege to taste, but also a shame to open so early. If the 1991 seemed young, the 2000 came across as a veritable new-born. 
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    Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$46,235.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (100)

    I’ve rated the 2003 Hermitage perfect on numerous occasions, and while sound bottles are still as good as it gets, I’ve also had some tired bottles here in the States, so provenance is critical with this vintage. Still youthfully colored yet just starting to show some maturity in its aromatics of blackberries, dark currants, licorice, spice box, and leather, this fabulously textured, opulent 2003 hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a wealth of sweet tannins, and a monster of a finish. Clearing 15% alcohol (and I think the pH is probably around 4), it should be a required tasting for all those touting the low alcohol nonsense. This singular beauty can be drunk today with incredible pleasure or cellared for another two decades, if you’re so inclined.
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    Rhone 1 100 (WA) HK$30,010.00
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    Wine Advocate (100)

    The greatest wines Chave has produced since 2003 are the two cuvees of 2009 Hermitage. The 2009 Hermitage exhibits a black/purple color along with a sumptuous nose of roasted meats, ground pepper, black currants, blackberry jam, and subtle smoke and licorice. The extraordinary bouquet is followed by a wine of extravagant intensity as well as tremendous focus and precision. While not as powerful as the blockbuster 2003, the amazing 2009 may turn out to be a modern day version of their magnificent 1990 (which is drinking incredibly well at present). Anyone who loves Hermitage and has a cold cellar should be lining up to get a few bottles of this beauty.
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    Rhone 2 100 (WA) HK$40,775.00
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    Wine Advocate (100)

    Pure perfection, the 2010 Hermitage reminds Jean-Louis Chave of their 1990. It appears to be a richer, fresher example of what I remember the 1990 tasting like in 1992. The wine exhibits an opaque purple color along with an extraordinary bouquet of sweet blackberry fruit intermixed with creme de cassis, lead pencil shavings, acacia flowers, bouquet garni, meat and crushed rocks. Full-bodied and stunningly rich with laser-like precision, this is a powerful, massive yet exceptionally well-balanced wine that should be forgotten for a decade and drunk over the following 30-40 years.
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    Rhone 2 96 (WA) HK$19,105.00
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    Wine Advocate (96)

    One of the more charming and forward efforts from Chave, the 2012 Hermitage sports a mostly opaque purple color to go with classic creme de cassis and blackberry fruits intermixed with notions of lead pencil shavings, violets and powdered rocks. Deep, full-bodied and sumptuously textured, with good freshness, this pure, elegant Hermitage shows more and more definition and cut with time in the glass, but never loses it's more fruit forward, charming profile. I suspect it will drink nicely for most of its life.
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    Rhone 2 97 (VN) HK$21,020.00
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    Vinous (97)

    Inky ruby. Highly precise, mineral-accented black/blue fruit, exotic spice, olive paste and incense aromas pick up hints of smokiness and candied licorice as the wine opens up. Seamless and penetrating on the palate, offering urgent blueberry, cherry preserve, spicecake and floral pastille flavors and a strong jolt of smoky minerality. Deepens steadily on the strikingly long, penetrating finish, which features smooth, interwoven tannins and resonating florality.
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    Rhone 1 98 (JD) HK$19,010.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (98)

    Just an incredible Hermitage in every sense, the 2017 Hermitage reminds me of the 2016 yet on steroids (or maybe a more finesse-driven example of the 2015?). Revealing a deep, saturated purple color as well as a stunning nose of red and black currants, kirsch, Asian spices, cured meats, ground pepper, and Acacia flowers, it shows more classic Chave minerality with time in the glass, and if this doesn't put a smile on your face, I don't know what will. These all carry to a full-bodied, powerful, yet seamless wine that has the sunny, extroverted style of the vintage yet still packs incredible mid-palate depth, ripe, polished tannins, no hard edges, and one hell of an incredible finish. It's going to be relatively accessible by this cuvée’s standards and offer considerable pleasure in its youth, yet also have 30-40 years of longevity.
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    Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$24,760.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (100)

    I was blown away by the 2018 Hermitage from barrel, and it unquestionably doesn't disappoint from bottle. Reminding me slightly of the 2009, it possesses off-the-charts richness and depth, but like all great wines, stays pure, balanced, and light on its feel. Extraordinary notes of cassis, blue fruits, graphite, violets, and flowers define the bouquet, and this full-bodied, layered, multi-dimensional beauty has ripe tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. This is pure Hermitage magic. Given its extravagant richness and texture, it should be relatively accessible in just a handful of years yet evolve for three decades or more.
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    Rhone 1 98+ (JD) HK$15,935.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

    A powerhouse of a wine that flirts with perfection, the 2019 Hermitage reveals a dense purple hue as well as an extraordinary bouquet of sweet blue fruits supported by notes of crushed stone, lead pencil, leather, and ground pepper, with hints of flowers in the background. Full-bodied, stunningly pure, and massively concentrated, yet with riveting precision and elegance, it needs to be hidden in the back of the cellar for a decade and will evolve for 30, 40, if not 50 years. Tasting the trilogy of the 2018, 2019, and 2020 over the coming decades will be the equivalent of wine nirvana.
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    Rhone 2 98-100 (JD) HK$25,540.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (98-100)

    Tasted out of tank, the 2020 Hermitage ranks with the legendary wines from this address. Reminding me of a slightly more elegant version of the 2010, it's a deep, inky hued effort revealing utterly classic Hermitage aromatics of darker cassis and blue fruits as well as a liquid rock-like sense of minerality. Young and primordial, it still has incredible purity and freshness in its aromatics. Full-bodied and powerful on the palate, this gorgeous wine is going to shine with just 4-6 years of bottle age yet age with the best of them. I would not be surprised to see this beauty have 40, 50, or even 60 years of life.
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    Rhone 1 94-97 (VN) HK$15,625.00
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    Vinous - Josh Raynolds (94-97)

    From Peleat: Peach, apricot and a wild note of botanical herbs on the nose. Deep pit fruit and melon on the palate, with tarragon and lemon emerging with air. Very good grip on the finish. From Rocoules: Very spicy, with vivid lemon and lime scents and a strong undercurrent of tangy minerals. Focused and pure, with superb depth and clarity. From Meal: Very rich, with creamy peach and floral honey character. Shows pliant pit fruit and poached pear on the palate, with a spine of zesty minerals. The Chaves call this site Petit Meal. From L' Hermite: Stunning mineral, orange and licorice aromas reminded me of a grand cru Burgundy. Fresh, energetic and focused, with pure citrus and orchard fruit flavors and excellent mineral cut. The final blend should be a knockout mix of depth and energy.
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    Rhone 1 97 (VN) HK$15,045.00
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    Vinous (97)

    Light brilliant yellow. An intensely perfumed, powerful bouquet evokes fresh pear, peach nectar, anise, iodine and candied ginger, and a smoky mineral quality builds steadily in the glass. Sappy, seamless and incisive on the palate, offering intense orchard and pit fruit and honeysuckle flavors that are lifted and braced by a core of dusty minerality and a bitter jolt of orange pith. Clings with superb tenacity on the mineral-driven finish, leaving sexy floral and ripe citrus fruit notes behind.
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    Rhone 3 98+ (JD) HK$14,375.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

    Another incredible white from this family is the 2019 Hermitage Blanc, a powerful, concentrated, and remarkably pure Hermitage that has laser-like focus as well as textbook Marsanne notes of quince, green almond, powdered rock, licorice, and spice. It’s still tight, focused, and inward at present, yet it reminds me of the 2018 with its purity and rare mix of power and elegance. It’s worth trying a bottle any time over the coming 3-5 years, but after that, I’d recommend waiting until after 2031.
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    Rhone 1 99 (JD) HK$14,625.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (99)

    Another heavenly white from this estate is the 2020 Hermitage Blanc, which is the usual 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne from a mix lieux-dits. Incredibly perfumed with notes of acacia flowers, buttered stone fruits, toasted brioche, honeysuckle, and crushed stone, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a seamless, layered texture, beautiful mid-palate depth, and a great finish. The purity, balance, and intensity here are just about off the charts, and this beauty deserves a solid decade of bottle age, although you'll be excused if you drink one in its youth as well.
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    Rhone 1 95 (VN) HK$3,255.00
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    Vinous (95)

    Deep magenta. Displays highly perfumed red and blue fruit preserve, floral, spice and mineral qualities on the expansive nose. Juicy and broad on the palate, offering ripe blueberry, black raspberry and candied violet flavors that tighten up slowly and become spicier with aeration. Blends the power of this vintage deftly with energy and finishes wonderfully long and precise, with the blue fruit and floral notes repeating.
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    Rhone 2 94 (VN) HK$6,720.00
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    Vinous (94)

    Inky violet color. Displays ripe dark fruit, licorice, olive, potpourri and cracked pepper aromas, plus a smoky mineral flourish that adds an energetic lift. Sappy and broad on the palate, offering appealingly sweet black and blue fruit, cola, licorice and exotic spice flavors that show impressive depth and vivacity. Finishes very long and precise, with a lingering floral quality and dusty, slowly building tannins.
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