Coche-Dury
If ever there were a definitive white wine producer in Burgundy it would likely be a tie between Puligny-based Leflaive and Meursault specialist Coche-Dury. Commonly known simply as Coche, this domaine is a magnificent producer with holdings in the most important vineyards not just in Meursault but in the wider Côte de Beaune as well. Even their villages level wines are blue chip quality and highly sought after by collectors and investors.
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$24,210.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 97 (WA) | HK$29,315.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)Deep and complete, Coche's 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, orange oil, honeysuckle, freshly baked bread, nutmeg, toasted sesame and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, its satiny attack segues into an ample, fleshy mid-palate that's girdled by racy acids and chalky structuring extract, concluding with a long, saline finish. Uniting texture and tension to compelling effect, this contemporary classic is the quintessential Genevrières. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$18,280.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$4,750.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 89 (VN) | HK$3,980.00 | |||||
Vinous (89)Matured in 30% new oak, the 2018 Bourgogne Blanc was bottled in April and comes from vines around the maison. It has a well-defined bouquet, the oak neatly integrated. The palate is balanced with a sapid opening, good depth and a slightly tangy, straightforward yet unmistakably persistent finish. |
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Burgundy | 10 | 87 (VN) | HK$2,915.00 | |||||
Vinous (87)The 2009 Bourgogne Rouge is a flashy, exuberant wine with lovely fleshiness at this level. Sweet red berries, flowers and spices are some of the nuances that emerge from this radiant, tasty Bourgogne. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$2,825.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$49,395.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-94 (VN (ST)) | HK$57,015.00 | |||||
Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (91-94)Spiced apple, minerals and smoke on the nose. Dense and minerally in the mouth, with uncanny thickness for the vintage and the underlying structure of a red wine. Like the Meursault Perrieres, this should be long-lived for a '98. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97+ (VN) | HK$40,755.00 | |||||
Vinous (97+)The aromas of liquid stone and menthol offer superb lift. On the palate, this offers a tactile dusty stone character and a sense of mineral solidity verging on painful. Among the handful of stars of the vintage in both its sheer intensity and its palate-staining persistence, but in need of at least five or six years of patience. A great, gripping, somewhat saline wine that would pair magically with crustaceans. More glyceral than the '05 but perhaps not quite as high in dry extract-and not nearly as backward. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96 (VN) | HK$43,395.00 | |||||
Vinous (96)Two vintages of Coche Dury’s Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru follow. Neither 2011 nor 2003 is especially highly regarded, but it is precisely vintages like these that can be so instructive because they tell us so much about what talented growers can achieve in challenging years. The 2011 Charlemagne needs several hours of air to open, which is not surprising, as it has always been a stubborn wine. I remember that Jean-François Coche hesitated to show the Charlemagne when I stopped by to taste the bottled 2011s, as he felt the long malos had resulted in a wine that needs more time in bottle to fully come together. Now, at nearly age ten, the 2011 remains quite vibrant and nervy, with striking citrus, floral and mineral notes laced into a racy frame. All it needs is a bit more flesh, but it’s the sort of flesh that develops with more time in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97+ (WA) | HK$45,320.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97+)Raphel Coche told me that the 2012 Corton Charlemagne was the only vineyard that escaped hail damage this year. It has a very succinct nose, not predisposed to go out and grab you by the lapels. The aromatics unfurl with a sense of ease prioritizing finesse over power: beeswax, linden, lemon thyme and fresh pear. The palate is exquisitely balanced with fleeting glimpses of Seville orange and apricot. But there is more about the tension, the effortlessness and that it just rolls out across the finish like a huge Turkish rug. This is the kind of wine that exhausts superlatives. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$48,190.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)Raphaël Coche-Dury describes this as the most challenging vintage of his career to date, but the 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with notes of yellow orchard fruit, mandarin and lemon oil, almond paste and subtle top notes of petrol and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and intense, with an ample mid-palate, juicy acids, chewy extract and a long, saline finish. This isn't as structurally taut as the best vintages, so it will be a comparatively precocious rendition of this reliably long-lived cuvée, but it should deliver great pleasure over two decades or more. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 100 (DC) | HK$57,990.00 | |||||
Decanter (100)Enjoyed over dinner in Burgundy after tasting many truly lovely wines, this wine could erase your memory of anything else. It is a riveting tour-de-force, with a medium lemon-yellow colour and heady, incredibly forward aromas of ripe orchard and stone fruit with exotic spices, butter, and a bit of oak. There is fresh acidity, plenty of body and extract, and incredible finesse and elegance as well. The combination of youthful fruit, fresh acidity, and robust density carry this wine to an interminable finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (WA) | HK$18,710.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)Peaches, apricots, and spices are found in the redolent aromatics of the 2001 Meursault Caillerets. A honeyed, feminine wine, its personality at this stage is reminiscent of a great Meursault-Charmes, satin-textured, deep, dense, and focused. Loads of pulp-laden pears and spices can be found throughout its exceptional personality and finish. Projected maturity: now-2013. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$17,160.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | 98 (VN) | HK$26,815.00 | |||||
Vinous (98)There were no reservations about the stellar white. The 2009 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru from Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury is riveting from start to finish. Laser-like precision on the killer nose, it threatens to overwhelm the olfactory senses. Struck flint, citrus peel and linden, it gains intensity with aeration without ever losing an ounce of its breath-taking delineation. The palate followed suit with ethereal balance, perfect acidity, astonishing energy and a mineral-rich finish that leaves you lost for words. After 13-years, this Meursault is at its peak, though I cannot foresee any decline in the near future. Such is the magic of Coche-Dury. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 96 (TA) | HK$32,905.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)Drawn from three parcels within Les Perrières, this is another very impressive bottling from the Coches, père et fils. It's quite a forward wine, even in barrel, but it certainly doesn't lack the acidity or concentration to age. Sweetly oaked, floral and creamy, it has flavours of lemon zest and orange peel with an overtone of honey. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94+ (VN) | HK$26,585.00 | |||||
Vinous (94+)Pale, bright lemon-yellow. Flamboyant orange zest and stone aromas come across as a bit more exotic than those of the Genevrières. On the palate, the wine's creamy soft citrus fruit is energized by powerful sappy minerality. There's great stuffing here but this very long, palate-staining wine will need time in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97 (WA) | HK$34,730.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is the most distinctive wine in the range, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, crushed chalk, tart green apple, dried white flowers and struck flint. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly satiny and searingly intense, with tangy acids, huge concentration and the pronouncedly mineral, stony signature that always seems to mark out this bottling. Along with Genevrières, Coche's parcel in Perrières was largely spared by the 2016 frosts. Given its utterly classic profile, a dozen years' patience is advised. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (VN) | HK$12,165.00 | |||||
Vinous (92)(from Les Chaumes des Perrieres) Bright, pale yellow. Tangy aromas of orange, peach and spices. Broad and lively, with intense fruit lifted by a near-perfect sugar/acid balance. Finishes with excellent cut. This is awfully good for a wine from seven-year-old vines. |
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Burgundy | 6 | 91 (WA) | HK$9,065.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91)The 2011 Meursault (Les Vireuils) has an engaging bouquet of fresh apricot, passion fruit and flint, later a subtle hint of white chocolate that lends panache. The palate is very well-balanced with a fine line of acidity and grilled walnut, almond and fresh lemon all vying for attention. Long in the mouth with a persistent finish, this is a very fine Meursault Villages, as one has come to expect from this address. Drink 2015-2030. |
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Burgundy | 6 | 92 (WA) | HK$8,020.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92)The 2015 Meursault Village is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, Anjou pear, white flowers, honeycomb and hazelnut cream. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, with beautiful balance, succulent underlying acids and an elegant framing of dry extract that lends a mouthwatering quality to the long, penetrating finish. Without either the strong cooperage or reductive signatures of yesteryear's Coche-Dury, it exemplifies the new stylistic direction taken by Raphaël Coche, and it's a terrific success, surpassing both the 2014 and 2013 renditions. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$8,855.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2017 Meursault Village is a brilliant young wine, unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp Anjou pear, green apple, dried white flowers, toasted sesame and hazelnuts. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and elegantly satiny, with racy acids, discrete structuring dry extract, and a long, elegantly chalky finish. Raphaël Coche thinks this will prove reminiscent of the domaine's 2001—in so far as the 2001 drank well in its youth, but despite its youthful precocity, it proved surprisingly long lived. Here, the expressiveness of the vintage meets the tensile, age-worthy Coche style to great effect. Tasted multiple times with consistent notes. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (BH) | HK$8,745.00 | |||||
Burghound (92)(Outstanding) A perfumed and much more floral-suffused nose speaks of white peach, lemon rind and grilled nuts. The succulent, intense and stony middle weight flavors possess a taut muscularity before terminating in a bitter lemon suffused and bone-dry finish. This too is most impressive for its level and particularly for the outstanding depth. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$9,495.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)Aromas of crisp Anjou pear, lime zest, orange oil, fresh hazelnuts and white flowers introduce the 2019 Meursault Village, a medium to full-bodied, layered and incisive wine that's chalky and concentrated, with racy acids and an abundance of structuring dry extract. When I was served this wine blind a month after tasting it at the domaine, I mistook it for its 2017 counterpart, which should give some indication of the pitch-perfect balance Raphaël Coche succeeded in attaining in the more extreme 2019 vintage. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 99.0 | HK$8,340.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 93+ (VN) | HK$16,385.00 | |||||
Vinous (93+)Very closed nose hints at wet stone. Rich and ripe in the mouth, with palate-saturating flavors of crushed stone and orange. As lush and sweet as this is, it avoids crossing over to exotic. Very deep and very young: should age very well for a 2006. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94 (VN) | HK$15,755.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)Pale, bright yellow. Full, powerful aromas of peach, orange and minerals; ripe, inviting and quintessential Meursault. Then broad and aromatic but classically dry in the middle palate, with captivating orange and tangerine fruit dominating. Opens dramatically on the back half to showcase the silkiness and gras of Meursault, but the long finish features superb grip. This was very promising from barrel, and it's even better in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94+ (WA) | HK$18,430.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94+)Offering up notes of lime oil, tart Anjou pear, peach kernels and sesame that are delicately framed by a judicious touch of new oak, the 2016 Meursault Les Rougeots is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with more texture and a denser, more blocky profile than the other village wines in the cellar this year, displaying considerable extract and a long, stony finish. Raphaël Coche notes that no one in his family can remember a time when Rougeots was so badly frosted, adding that neighboring Chevalières was entirely wiped out. |
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