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    Domaine Denis Mortet

    About Domaine Denis Mortet

    Arnaud Mortet started working alongside his father, Denis Mortet, in the 1999 vintage of his family’s estate, the iconic Domaine Denis Mortet. Not only was Denis great friends with and mentored by Henri Jayer, but he also got the chance of a lifetime to taste the entire 1991 lineup of Leroy with Lalou Bize Leroy herself. The wines of Denis Mortet are thus inspired by both Jayer and Leroy in terms of both vineyard management and winemaking, precious wisdom that Arnaud inherited when Denis passed away in 2006.

     

    Viniculture

    Denis Mortet was one of the most important and influential domaines in the late 20th century and enjoys a cult status. The legend continues with his son Arnaud. Brilliant fruit-driven wines that are bordering on the supernatural. The wines have such a light touch; they seem to fly. Every Mortet wine, even the more rustic Marsannay, can be recognized for its velvety texture. 

     

    Apart from the Domaine wines, Arnaud has also started his own négotiant business, naming Arnaud Mortet.



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    Product Name Region Qty Score Price
    Burgundy 1 92-94 (WA) HK$7,540.00
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    Wine Advocate (92-94)

    From a parcel with white soils, the 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is very pretty, wafting from the glass with notes of rose petal, blood orange, wild berries and savory bass notes. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and fine-boned, with chalky structuring tannins, juicy acids and a vibrant core of fruit. The style here is exquisite, and if Mortet can coax a little more depth and concentration from these vines in future vintages while retaining its elegant profile, he will soon number among this grand cru's greatest exponents.
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    Burgundy 1 91-93 (VN (ST)) HK$23,240.00
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    Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (91-93)

    Bright, deep red. Enticing, nuanced aromas of black raspberry, mocha, game, iron and animal fur. Suave and silky, with nicely integrated acidity framing the sappy red fruit and torrefaction flavors. This shows lovely inner-mouth perfume and noteworthy complexity. Finishes with big, broad tannins and lingering red fruits. But does it have the classic thrust of great Chambertin?
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    Burgundy 1 95-97 (VN) HK$12,177.00
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    Vinous (95-97)

    The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru is matured entirely in new oak with 40-50% whole-bunch fruit. It displays sublime purity on the nose, which offers layers of brambly red fruit mixed with crushed stone, pressed rose petals and freshly tilled soil. The medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and a perfect line of acidity. Tighter than the Mazis-Chambertin, with a precise and quite conservative finish. This is another profound Chambertin from Arnaud Mortet.
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    Burgundy 1 98 (TA) HK$21,620.00
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    Tim Atkin MW (98)

    This is one of those wines that just goes for it. It's other worldly. It is made entirely with Arnaud's twist on whole clusters: vendange enti re d coup e, or whole cluster with the stem cut out by hand. As with many things, it sounds "prettier" in French! It also sees 100% new oak. Layered in aromas and flavors, there are leather scents, exotic spices, field strawberries and more. There's a bit of woodsy grip, too, and the tannins definitely are firmer than the Bonnes Mares. The solid fruit core and elegant, lingering finish suggest that this has at least a few decades in it. 2025-45
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    Burgundy 3 90-92 (VN) HK$11,895.00
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    Vinous (90-92)

    The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru, the métayage shared with Christophe Roumier, contains 50% whole bunch and new oak. It has quite an introverted nose at the moment, dark berry fruit, tobacco and light undergrowth aromas coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, quite structured for this climat. Maybe it needs a little more flesh on the finish? Let’s see how it turns out in bottle (if I can find one.)
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    Burgundy 1 92 (VN) HK$8,675.00
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    Vinous (92)

    Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Sexy perfume of raspberry, Asian spices, dried flowers, sandalwood and gentian root opened nicely in the glass. Spicy, fine-grained and vibrant on the palate; not especially sweet or fleshy but surprisingly fresh and easy to drink, showing lovely ripe acidity and excellent retention of fruit. This may not have the thickness of today's Mortet wines but it's just entering its plane of peak maturity. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and terrific spicy length. Arnaud Mortet noted that his father Denis aged this wine entirely in new oak.
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    Burgundy 6 93.0 HK$6,160.00
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    Burgundy 6 91-93 (VN (ST)) HK$5,485.00
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    Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (91-93)

    Good deep red. Enticing aromas of raspberry, mocha and game. Sweet, lush and stuffed with flavor, and yet this also boasts excellent definition and cut. The chewy dark fruit and game flavors convey a strong impression of terroir Finishes pure and long, with dusty tannins and excellent grip for the vintage. But the '07 Champeaux seems even riper.
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