Ponsot
About Domaine Ponsot
Founded by a soldier returning home from the Franco-Prussian War in 1872, radical thinking and revolutionary ideas seem to be something of a family trait. The current eccentric Ponsot at the helm of this fabulous estate is Laurent, who is making wildly unique yet utterly Burgundian wines from some of the finest Grands Crus in the entire region.
The Winemaking
Although classified as neither biodynamic nor organic, he uses no insecticide or pesticide on his vines that are an average of 50 years old. To ensure quality, the label is unique for having a white spot that turns grey if the bottle has been subjected to extreme temperatures.
Laurent Ponsot studies the moon and the stars (he is not an astronomer), and their effect on the rhythm of life in the vineyards. A holistic approach that sees him lean heavily towards low intervention winemaking techniques to respect this natural harmony. The faintest touch of sulfur is afforded to the grapes upon picking if absolutely necessary, and there is no sorting table in his winery. Once pressed, the liquid is essentially allowed to ferment whenever it wishes for as long as it wishes. Once the wines have achieved the requisite state of their own accord, they may or may not be racked in the following spring or summer depending on the cycle of the moon.
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (WA) | HK$18,340.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-93)The 2014 Clos Vougeot Cuvée Vieilles Vignes took a little more coaxing from the glass than its fellow Grand Crus. Quite opaque at first, the nose is deep with a mixture of red and black fruit (blacker than Laurent Ponsot's Grand Crus from Gevrey for example). The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannin and grippy in the mouth, suggesting just a little more extraction perhaps? This has real weight and presence, though I would like to see more detail and tension come through on the finish. Whatever, it will need some serious aging in the cellar. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-91 (WA) | HK$9,735.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (89-91)The 2014 Corton Grand Cru Cuvée de Bourdon has quite a complex bouquet, the initial rush of redcurrant and cranberry fruit followed quickly by marine/sea spray aromas, flint and limestone very subtle but there underneath. I like the definition and the focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit. There is a seam of spice here, bitter red cherry, some hardness apropos that tannin towards the finish that needs a little more flesh. That may develop by the end of its élevage. This is broody, capricious Corton, but I would like to see more charm. |
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Burgundy | 8 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$4,610.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru is certainly not as immediate as that temptress, the 2014 Charmes-Chambertin. This insists upon more coaxing from the glass, more swirling to eke out those attractive scents of blackberry, raspberry preserve and rose petals, all very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe, sappy red berry fruit. There is pleasant tang of sour cherry here, even a hint of licorice on the finish that has more density than the Charmes-Chambertin, if not quite the nascent Charmes. Give it 4-6 years in bottle and then I think you might have a serious Griotte on your hands. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$21,810.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru is certainly not as immediate as that temptress, the 2014 Charmes-Chambertin. This insists upon more coaxing from the glass, more swirling to eke out those attractive scents of blackberry, raspberry preserve and rose petals, all very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe, sappy red berry fruit. There is pleasant tang of sour cherry here, even a hint of licorice on the finish that has more density than the Charmes-Chambertin, if not quite the nascent Charmes. Give it 4-6 years in bottle and then I think you might have a serious Griotte on your hands. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$22,615.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (WA) | HK$6,815.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90-92)The 2014 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Allouettes has an introspective bouquet. There is something steely about this: cold metal, copper piping underneath the transparent red berry fruit. The palate is quite harmonious on the entry. There is a taut line of acidity here, clean and crisp, very linear with touches of bitter cherry towards the finish. There is something moody about this Morey-Saint-Denis, which may well be its way of saying that it needs to be cellared for 3-5 years. |
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