Giacomo Conterno
The Conterno name dominates Monforte d’Alba - with Aldo Conterno, Claudio Conterno, Paolo Conterno, Diego Conterno and Franco Conterno all producing exceptional wines. But in international recognition, the name Giacomo Conterno is first among equals. The winery was established in 1900 and today retains a traditional approach to their 17ha in Serralunga and Monforte.
It is rare for a single producer to command such respect not only from lovers of the “King of Italian Wine”, but also from its peers, Giacomo Conterno is a bastion of traditional Barolo having been passed down through the years to Roberto Conterno, the third generation to be at the helm of his stunning family estate.
A winemaker of uncommon talent, Roberto’s official ascension to the throne in 2003 merely followed a period of many years during which he was head vigneron, presiding over an elevation in the wines’ quality, marked by both huge critical scores and fervent demand. From their vineyards in Serralunga, the Conterno family has been crafting incredibly elegant and high-toned Barolo for decades.
Product Name | Region | Qty | Score | Price | |||||
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Piedmont | 3 | 95 (WA) | HK$4,725.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)Introducing the 2015 Barolo Arione. This is the first vintage produced of the newest wine to join the extended and ever-evolving Conterno portfolio. Only three oak casks were produced: the one I tasted from to write this review, one that was auctioned off to charity and the third botte that ended up becoming part of the iconic Monfortino blend. That fruit from the recently acquired Arione vineyard would be deemed good enough to end up in Monfortino tells a lot about how confident Roberto Conterno is in this product. From a tasting point of view, this wine is characterized by richness and density, with a polished mineral note that never hides from view. The richness of the soils in this vineyard correspond to the density and structure of the wine. Most of the vineyard was planted in the 1960s with some replants throughout the 1980s and 1990s. If Francia is elegance, Arione is power. |
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Piedmont | 3 | 96+ (WA) | HK$3,560.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96+)The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is an unusual version of this benchmark wine. In 2007 Conterno decided against bottling his Monfortino. Conterno believes Nebbiolo can handle rain and humidity (hence his decision to make Monfortino in rainy years such as 1987 and 2002), but not drought. The result is a Cascina Francia that is unusually dark, rich and powerful. The floral, herbal notes that are typical in young Cascina Francia have been replaced by deeper notes of tar, smoke and licorice to match the layers of intense dark fruit. The 2007 is powerful and imposing from start to finish. It is going to be a fascinating Barolo to follow over the coming years and decades. Cascina Francia is often accessible for the first year or two after it has been bottled. That has not been my experience with the 2007. It seems already headed for a period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037. |
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Piedmont | 2 | 98 (VN) | HK$3,955.00 | |||||
Vinous (98)The 2015 Barolo Francia is a soaring, regal wine endowed with tremendous intensity in all of its dimensions. The most reticent and inward of the 2015s, the Francia possesses superb textural density and persistence all the way through to the explosive finish. An immense, towering Barolo, the Francia is positively stellar. It is also going to require a number of years to be at its best. In recent years, the Conterno Barolo Francia has often been relatively accessible post bottling, the 2015 is far from that. |
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Piedmont | 5 | 97 (WA) | HK$4,115.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)I tasted the Giacomo Conterno 2017 Barolo Francia shortly before bottling. Like Roberto Conterno's other wines from this controversial vintage, this wine shines with brilliant and unexpected purity and intensity that is harder to find in its peers. It shows a deep understanding of the potential of a warm growing season, and the Nebbiolo is supple, velvety and uncharacteristically exuberant (for a grape whose elegance starts famously with understatement). Francia in Serralunga d'Alba evokes power and profound depth, with black and purple fruit highlights, rusty nail, crème de cassis, grilled rosemary and reddish rock or baked terracotta. The wine carries its considerable fruit weight with grace, and at the end of the day, it offers a complete portrait of vintage, variety and vintner. |
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Piedmont | 1 | 98 (VN) | HK$15,045.00 | |||||
Vinous (98)The 1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino (magnum) is the first wine in this tasting that I started to get to know when it was in cask. Back then it was unbelievably unctuous and exotic. Today, it is all that, and more. Red cherry jam, mocha, licorice, sweet rose petal and leather are some of many notes that open in the glass, but ultimately the 1997 is not a wine that is drunk, but one that is enjoyed as a total sensory overload. |
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Piedmont | 2 | 100 (VN) | HK$21,620.00 | |||||
Vinous (100)I debated whether or not to include the 2010 Barolo Riserva Monfortino in this tasting. Conventional wisdom says it is way too young, especially from magnum. You know what? I hate conventional wisdom. One of the undeniable truisms is that Monfortino is more enjoyable young now than it was twenty years ago. As for the 2010, it is every bit as monumental as everyone in the room expects. A wine of breadth and grandeur, the 2010 boasts tremendous depth in every dimension. Time in the glass brings out kirsch, rose petal, menthol, leather and mocha nuances, but the 2010 is ultimately a wine to adore for its complete and profound beauty. From magnum it is truly mesmerizing. |