Maison Joseph Drouhin
The eponymous Joseph Drouhin founded the négociant company, which bears his name in 1880, having spent much of his early life in Yonne. His son Maurice took over in 1918, buying the first vineyards, including the famous Clos des Mouches, which we are delighted to offer below. An arduous process of expansion thanks to the nature of Burgundy’s patchwork of owners, Maurice was finally able to carve out quite the empire for his family, which endures to this day.
A titanic character in Beaune, Maurice both sat on the INAO committee and acted as deputy administrator of the Hospices de Beaune throughout the turbulent World War II. At the height of his powers, Drouhin even had exclusive distribution rights to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. However, he was unable to purchase a portion of the company, which subsequently went to Leroy.
His successor was his nephew Robert Jeausset-Drouhin, who took charge in 1957. Still maintaining a watchful eye over proceedings, Robert has ceded main control to his children (and fourth generation) Frédéric, Laurent, Philippe and Véronique. Philippe Drouhin manages the vineyards biodynamically, and as of 2009, their entire range has the ECOCERT organic certification.
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Burgundy | 2 | 93+ (WA) | HK$7,151.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93+)Tasted from bottle, Drouhin's 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc is showing very well, offering up aromas of fresh pear, Meyer lemon and grapefruit zest that are still quite youthfully marked by a generous application of buttery new oak that experience shows will integrate nicely with a little age. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with racy underlying acids, a fragrant core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. This is a very elegant, aromatic rendition of this emblematic Drouhin cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-97 (IB) | HK$6,363.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-97)Pale lemon colour. The power is immediately apparent on the nose, but in a good way. A wine for longer elevage before bottling and then worth the wait in bottle thereafter. This has all the expected volume of white fruit while retaining impeccable balance. Adds depth with time in the glass, before reaching quite a saline finish. A very youthful but impressive Clos des Mouches. I recently enjoyed a stunning bottle of the 2017, and this could very well match it in due course. Tasted: November 2021 |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$16,000.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)Good dark red. Very shy nose hints at crushed stone, menthol, flowers and licorice. Then surprisingly round and charming in the mouth, with a distinctly silky, open-knit texture to the fat dark berry fruit. Not hugely complex but developing nicely. This should give pleasure early. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (WA) | HK$2,500.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)The 2015 Echézeaux Grand Cru, of which there are two barrels this year, has a fragrant wild strawberry, Morello and woodland-scented bouquet that is beautifully defined and neatly enmeshed with the oak. The palate is medium-bodied, here showing a little more of the wood influence than the nose, though there is good depth with a slightly savory finish that just needs to develop more persistence once in bottle. There is energy packed into this Echézeaux and I can see it repaying those sage enough to cellar it for 6-8 years. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$9,800.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2017 Meursault Charmes 1er Cru had been bottled in August 2018. It has a well-defined bouquet, hints of white chocolate infusing the citrus fruit, and just a touch of honey giving away the warmth of the growing season. The palate is well-balanced with a discreet spicy opening that dovetails into a pure, quite tensile midpalate. There is a sense of fullness to this Meursault, which displays impressive amplitude toward the persistent finish. This comes highly recommended. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 17 (JR) | HK$6,540.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (17)Cask sample. Gorgeously intense purple fruit on the nose. Sweet ripe cherries. More damson on the palate, very ripe, just fresh enough, almost a little jammy but rich and generous. |
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