Maison Joseph Drouhin
The eponymous Joseph Drouhin founded the négociant company, which bears his name in 1880, having spent much of his early life in Yonne. His son Maurice took over in 1918, buying the first vineyards, including the famous Clos des Mouches, which we are delighted to offer below. An arduous process of expansion thanks to the nature of Burgundy’s patchwork of owners, Maurice was finally able to carve out quite the empire for his family, which endures to this day.
A titanic character in Beaune, Maurice both sat on the INAO committee and acted as deputy administrator of the Hospices de Beaune throughout the turbulent World War II. At the height of his powers, Drouhin even had exclusive distribution rights to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. However, he was unable to purchase a portion of the company, which subsequently went to Leroy.
His successor was his nephew Robert Jeausset-Drouhin, who took charge in 1957. Still maintaining a watchful eye over proceedings, Robert has ceded main control to his children (and fourth generation) Frédéric, Laurent, Philippe and Véronique. Philippe Drouhin manages the vineyards biodynamically, and as of 2009, their entire range has the ECOCERT organic certification.
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Burgundy | 1 | 17.5 (JR) | HK$4,825.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (17.5)Despite being in its infancy, there is a lot to love about this already: perhaps the nose is reticent, but the palate has beautiful crunchy cherry and cranberry fruit with just a touch of black olive on the finish. There's dark chocolate and lovely hedgerow notes too, giving plenty of interest beyond fruit. Certainly not at its best just yet, but full of promise. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93+ (WA) | HK$7,151.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93+)Tasted from bottle, Drouhin's 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc is showing very well, offering up aromas of fresh pear, Meyer lemon and grapefruit zest that are still quite youthfully marked by a generous application of buttery new oak that experience shows will integrate nicely with a little age. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with racy underlying acids, a fragrant core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. This is a very elegant, aromatic rendition of this emblematic Drouhin cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 18.5 (JR) | HK$17,750.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18.5)Picked 8–11 September. High percentage of whole bunch – 40%. 'I had a crush on this wine this year', says Véronique Drouhin. Cask sample. Mid crimson. So pretty: red fruits, a stemmy freshness that is leafy but in a lovely way, not at all underripe. Fabulous depth and length but with an elegant shape, not exactly slim but perfectly proportioned, like the body of a yoga expert, sinewy and strong but not lean. Savoury with a marked oak flavour on the finish at the moment and a long peppery aftertaste. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$4,640.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru has an open nose of brambly red fruit, sous-bois and wilted rose petals, very pure and charming, and not dissimilar in style to François Bertheau's Chambolle 1er Cru. The palate is very harmonious, open and transparent. It feels lighter than others, yet the tension and precision will see this age with style, and perhaps it will not close down. Tempting now, but I would prefer to wait. Classy. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$6,815.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 1er Cru has a very perfumed bouquet of brambly red berry fruit infused with pressed rose petal; touches of flint and bay leaf emerge with time. It seems to retract a little with aeration rather than expand. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and quite linear in style, featuring a liberal sprinkling of white pepper and clove toward the finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 18.5 (JR) | HK$4,930.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18.5)So close to Bonnes Mares but so different. This is always refined, says Véronique Drouhin. Estate vines organically farmed. Picked 8 September. 40% whole bunch. Usually 7–8 barrels. Cask sample. Mid crimson. Seductively, delicately scented. Red fruits, not overly sweet-smelling, and a delicate dusty/mineral note. Refined, slim, harmonious and fresh. The length is amazing. Mouth-watering, pure and all tongue-tied on the palate but ready for a long life. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (WA) | HK$13,840.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90-92)The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru exhibits aromas of red cherries, potpourri, citrus rind and creamy new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and expressive, with an exuberant core of succulent, mouthwatering fruit that largely conceals a fine-grained framing of tannin. Giving and fruit-driven, this will drink well in its youth. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 94 (VN) | HK$10,330.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)The 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru has a well-defined, quite floral bouquet of red currant, cranberry and light stony aromas, displaying pleasing transparency despite a very small reduction. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fleshy and nicely poised, with a finessed, detailed, precise finish. Understated, yet there is intensity here. Excellent. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$9,285.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2017 Corton Grand Cru was picked on 5 and 8 September and comes from Les Renardes but it also contains some fruit from the little known “Hautes Mourottes” and is made using vinification intégrale. It is deep in colour, and the bouquet is comparatively closed vis-à-vis Drouhin’s other Grand Cru, seeming quite broody, with blackberry and subtle iodine aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, one of the most muscular from Drouhin this year, and the saline finish is lightly spiced. Give it three or four years in bottle... at least. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$4,450.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$16,385.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$5,000.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru, which is a new long-term contract for Drouhin, is lucid ruby in color. It has a fresh raspberry and crushed strawberry nose, touches of mint and allspice emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip on the entry. It feels well structured, with good backbone, maybe missing a little tension toward the finish, but persistent and satisfying. Give it two or three years in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$19,695.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$9,800.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2017 Meursault Charmes 1er Cru had been bottled in August 2018. It has a well-defined bouquet, hints of white chocolate infusing the citrus fruit, and just a touch of honey giving away the warmth of the growing season. The palate is well-balanced with a discreet spicy opening that dovetails into a pure, quite tensile midpalate. There is a sense of fullness to this Meursault, which displays impressive amplitude toward the persistent finish. This comes highly recommended. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (VN) | HK$44,580.00 | |||||
Vinous (98)The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly deeper in color. This has a gorgeous bouquet of lemon thyme, orange blossom and crushed stone, all very focused, followed by an emerging touch of mintiness. The harmonious palate is powerful, ripe and slightly vanilla-y; it just lacks a little breeding and panache. A bold and brassy yet cerebral Montrachet that will need a lot of time. This surpasses all my expectations from barrel. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (VN) | HK$60,145.00 | |||||
Vinous (98)The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly deeper in color. This has a gorgeous bouquet of lemon thyme, orange blossom and crushed stone, all very focused, followed by an emerging touch of mintiness. The harmonious palate is powerful, ripe and slightly vanilla-y; it just lacks a little breeding and panache. A bold and brassy yet cerebral Montrachet that will need a lot of time. This surpasses all my expectations from barrel. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95+ (WA) | HK$7,730.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95+)The 2017 Musigny Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with captivating aromas of dried flowers, rose petal, violets and raspberries that mingle with deeper bass notes of espresso roast and raw cocoa. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and extremely elegant, with terrific depth, concentration and amplitude, framed by rich but powdery tannins and concluding with a beautifully fragrant finish. Unsurprisingly, this is likely the red wine of the vintage chez Drouhin. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$4,090.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Village has a tightly wound, earthy bouquet that needs to knit together a little more during the remainder of its élevage. The palate has a pleasant sharpness on the entry. There is admirable tension here, especially for a Village Cru, though the cohesive, lightly spiced finish deserves a better set of aromatics (at least at the moment). One to watch once in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 3 | - | HK$7,700.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | 89-91 (VN) | HK$11,080.00 | |||||
Vinous (89-91)The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Procès 1er Cru felt a little gawky on the nose when I tasted the cask sample. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant sharpness on the entry, delivering firm grip and a saline finish that lingers in the mouth. Give this a couple of years in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$8,615.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)Pale, green-tinged yellow. Captivating scents of white peach, citrus fruits, spices and noble Puligny herbs, lifted by a suggestion of anise. A pure, nicely balanced midweight with a very primary estery banana note and a saline nuance. Currently showing more intensity than dimension, this promising premier cru finishes slightly edgy but long. Still, on this day the finished 2016 was clearly deeper. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$6,870.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 5 | 91-93 (VN) | HK$5,735.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru comes from three lieux-dits: Les Charmes, Les Petits-Monts and Aux Malconsorts. It has a very composed bouquet of ample ripe raspberry, crushed strawberry, veins of blue fruit and a touch of crushed stone. The palate is well balanced with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. A light oyster shell note pokes up toward the harmonious, velvety finish. This is going to be very seductive. |
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Burgundy | 2 | - | HK$4,200.00 | |||||
