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Rheinhessen | 1 | 96 (WA) | HK$16,045.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)Smoky, pungent, and animal evocations of peat, sweat, and musk oil mingle with scents of peach, Rainier cherry, and grapefruit on the nose of Keller’s 2009 Riesling G-Max, then saturate the palate in an enveloping manner impressively unlike that of the other dry Rieslings in his present collection. This is so richly-fruited and plush in texture, and its abundance of flavor registers as such an extract-rich infusion, that the contrast with the sense of transparency and vibrancy projected by the corresponding Abtserde could scarcely be more dramatic. Yet even so, this G-Max comes off as anything but weighty. Peaty smokiness; musky floral essences; crushed chalk; peach kernel and cherry pit piquancy, all impinge distinctively amid an otherwise seamlessly dense ocean of flavor whose finish both engulfs and buoys you. Eleven days (!) after having been opened for my initial tasting, contents of this same bottle of G-max were still full of vibratory energy. I imagine at least a 15 year run of glory for this remarkable Riesling. |
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Rheinhessen | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$16,045.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)If anything, even more headily floral than its Abtserde sibling, Keller’s 2010 Riesling trocken G-Max evokes iris and peony along with intimations of ocean breeze and scents of ripe quince and peach. Here the strong mineral dimension is not only mouthwateringly saline but scallop-like in a savory, faintly sweet and iodine-tinged way that segues directly into custardy richness of white peach, quince paste and nut oils that engulf the palate and (as I see I already wrote about the 2009) you along with it. There is a serenity and soothing irresistibility to the finish that – like its almost opaque sense of density and richness – sharply distinguishes this from the transparency and kinetics of the Abtserde. What a treat it will be for those who can manage to follow this wine from bottle – hard enough to purchase in any year, let alone one where yields for this particular picking dropped to twelve hectoliters per hectare! – in parallel with its immediate siblings from bottle. I suspect there is at least a decade of profound pleasure here, but as one notices particularly in the case of G-Max, Keller has traveled such a distance stylistically and refined his game to such an extent that one ought not to take his Grosse Gewachse of 8-10 years ago as an indication of what lies in store for those of recent vintages. |
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Rheinhessen | 1 | 96 (VN) | HK$18,430.00 | |||||
Vinous (96)On the nose, a smoky, peaty, and far more overtly mineral impression is conveyed than from the corresponding Abtserde, without the latter’s anticipations of floral perfume. By way of fruit aromas, zesty lime and lemon, piquant huckleberry and prickly, pungent white currant dominate. But on the glossy palate, a succulent influx of ripe peach joins bright citrus and white currant, suffused by peat and crushed stone. Mustard and currant seeds seem to crunch, citrus zests to piquantly glow, and chalky, sooty mineral matter to almost indelibly coat the gums on an electrically invigorating, wake-the-dead finish. |
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Rheinhessen | 1 | 96 (VN) | HK$18,140.00 | |||||
Vinous (96)Riding shotgun, the 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is a completely different wine. This is razor-sharp on the Zen-like nose of Granny Smith apples, struck flint notes and citrus peel; you could almost describe it as uncompromising. The palate has a citric spine and tastes quite saline, with hints of orange peel. Harmonious, penetrating and ethereal, this is a brilliant Riesling from Keller, but one that you have to meet on its own terms. |
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Rheinhessen | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$18,430.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)Intriguing aromas of nectarine, nut oil and lemon zest, plus a touch of cinnamon. The succulent apricot fruit and textural richness are kept alive by a salty minerality that lingers tantalizingly on the finish. With perfect clarity and outstanding intensity, this is a show-stopper. One of finest dry rieslings of the vintage. |
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Rheinhessen | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$8,450.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)Intriguing aromas of nectarine, nut oil and lemon zest, plus a touch of cinnamon. The succulent apricot fruit and textural richness are kept alive by a salty minerality that lingers tantalizingly on the finish. With perfect clarity and outstanding intensity, this is a show-stopper. One of finest dry rieslings of the vintage. |
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Rheinhessen | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$34,730.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)Intriguing aromas of nectarine, nut oil and lemon zest, plus a touch of cinnamon. The succulent apricot fruit and textural richness are kept alive by a salty minerality that lingers tantalizingly on the finish. With perfect clarity and outstanding intensity, this is a show-stopper. One of finest dry rieslings of the vintage. |
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Rheinhessen | 1 | 96 (VN) | HK$26,365.00 | |||||
Vinous (96)Marine-breeze alkaline and saline notes, black tea smokiness and a hints of framboise distillate penetrate the nostrils, and the mineral complexity that follows on the polished, expansive (even at 12.8% alcohol), remarkably buoyant palate does not disappoint the expectations aroused by the nose. At the same time, there is an infectious abundance of white peach, grapefruit and red raspberry juiciness on tap, invigoratingly accented by piquant but never outright bitter pits and pips along with tart, seed-crunching impingement. A finish of vibratory intensity and consummate refreshment left me exhilarated and panting after the next fascinating, sensuously satisfying sip. Keller calls this the butterfly among his Grosse Gewächse and attributes the jump in quality that it typically represents in tasting that line-up to the stony purity and rapid drainage of the site’s limestone soils. There’s something approaching magic here, that’s for sure! |
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