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    Mommessin

    About Mommessin

    The current Domaine Clos de Tart, sole owner and vigneron of this stunning vineyard, is family run by the Mommessins – the Burgundian natives have owned Clos de Tart since 1932 (7 years before it was granted Grand Cru status), and retained sole custody even after the selling of their négociant business to Jean-Claude Boisset.

     

    Domaine Clos de Tart crafts a sublime Grand Cru from the best plots and oldest vines of their 7.5 hectares and a deliciously vibrant and elegant Premier Cru from younger vines.

     

    Vinification

    Sylvain Pitot and his team are singularly focused on producing otherworldly wine to rival the greatest names in Burgundy (of which Clos de Tart is rightly considered one). The magnificent surroundings of this ancient property are finally giving birth to equally magnificent wine vintage after vintage. Matured in 100% new oak – only possible thanks to the extraordinary quality of the fruit – the wines are bottled unfiltered in a low-intervention style of winemaking.

     

    The hallowed vineyard is essentially managed organically without the official certification, giving Pitot more flexibility. A vast project was recently undertaken to carefully map out each zone of the 7.5 hectares, analysing their soil types and compositions – each individual plot is now harvested and vinified separately in stainless steel in the domaine’s highly impressive cuvérie, designed by Pitiot himself – a man of many talents!

     

    Yields are always kept exceedingly low – well below the permitted maximum through prudent usage of pruning, debudding and occasional green harvesting when necessary. Interestingly, Sylvain Pitiot is an ardent believer in achieving full phenolic ripeness, a tremendous testimony to the vineyard’s ability to retain freshness alongside ripeness, and Clos de Tart is frequently one of the very latest in the region to be harvested.



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    Product Name Region Qty Score Price
    Burgundy 1 98+ (WA) HK$37,380.00
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    Wine Advocate (98+)

    Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2010 Clos de Tart Grand Cru would have been made by angels if not Sylvain Pitiot (angels that had graduated from University of Dijon with a degree in oenology). The nose is so ineffably pure that it is guaranteed to bring a tear to the eye. In a strange way it reminds me of a top Armand Rousseau with its awe-inspiring transparency. The palate is ethereal - divine balance, a gentle grip, a saline edge and poise on the finish that takes your breath away. Iron fist in a velvet glove, etc. This is surely legend in the making.
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    Burgundy 2 95-97 (WA) HK$27,030.00
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    Wine Advocate (95-97)

    The 2014 Clos de Tart Grand Cru will contain 40% whole bunch fruit in the final. It was picked from September 17 until September 22. This blend that I tasted included the young vines at the bottom of the vineyard that may or may not be deselected to make a Forge de Tart (the decision will be made next year). It is also the first vintage that does not include old vines at the northwest corner that were pulled up in spring 2014, due to be replanted in four years' time. It has a very well defined bouquet with cranberry and wild strawberry fruit, fine mineral tones and is quite harmonious with hints of wet limestone. The palate is medium-bodied and I feel this has tightened up since I tasted it in September 2015. The fruit also seems a little darker. Blackberry and wild cherry, with a hint of cola and certainly more tangible mineralité on the finish, as you can feel the mouth tingling long after it has bid adieu.
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    Burgundy 2 99+ (VN) HK$34,110.00
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    Vinous (99+)

    The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with forest floor, crushed stone and a touch of sea spray. The palate is perfectly balanced with a deceivingly understated entry, before a wave of black and red fruit crashes over the senses. It is framed by supremely fine tannin, the intensity building toward a crescendo as it fans out. The aftertaste is unbelievably long, remaining in the mouth 60 seconds after the wine has departed. The best ever - simple as that. Tasted at Clos de Tart.
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    Burgundy 3 96-98 (VN) HK$26,400.00
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    Vinous (96-98)

    The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.
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    Burgundy 1 98 (VN) HK$29,510.00
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    Vinous (98)

    The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was wonderful from barrel but now it seems to have gone up another level. It has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful mineralité infusing the brambly red fruit. Wonderful focus and quite profound complexity. You could nose this forever. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins married with a killer line of natural acidity. Everything is perfectly proportioned in this wine, very persistent with layers of dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and tea leaf on the finish. Immense. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.
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