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    Domaine de la Vougeraie

    About Domaine de la Vougeraie

    Created as recently as 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie has seen one of the most remarkable ascensions to prominence in the entire region. Jean-Claude Boisset (of the famous Boisset Group) took the seismic decision at the turn of the millennium to combine his unbelievable, yet disparate, Burgundian holdings from various négociant companies he had accrued over the years.

     

    A monumentally successful decision, its title is derived from the significant holdings in Boisset’s home village of Vougeot. The winery itself is located not in Vougeot, but rather in Prémeaux - in the old Claudine Deschamps cellars. From this seat, general manager Sylvie Poillot coaxes and crafts sublime expressions of over 30 appellations totalling 40 hectares under vine.

     

    Viniculture

    These significant holdings, which include a stunning six Grands Crus, make Domaine de la Vougeraie one of the most important and influential producers in Burgundy – the gorgeous wines produced vintage after vintage make it one the best too. Boisset’s exceptional success, having founded his first eponymous négociant company at the age of 18, means no expense is spared in the viticultural or vinification process. Fully biodynamic practically from the instant it was formed as a Domaine, an entirely new suite of wooden fermentation vats and a state-of-the-art sorting table was added to the winery in Prémeaux.

     

    The result has been some of the most critically acclaimed Burgundy of the past 20 years. The change in winemaker from Pascal Marchand to Pierre Vincent in 2005 has seen a more delicate and perhaps terroir-driven style from Vougeraie – Marchand preferred heavier extraction which resulted in powerful, but perhaps slightly blunted wines. In 2019, Sylvie Poillot has continued the winemaking philosophy of Vincent, crafting a range of wines with an inherent sense of place and judged to perfection in their construction.



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    Product Name Region Qty Score Price
    Burgundy 2 93 (VN) HK$12,430.00
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    Vinous (93)

    The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a lot of reduction on the nose that disguises the terroir; it’s difficult to peer beyond the sulfur here. The palate is dense and weighty and slightly honeyed in texture (possibly with just a bit of botrytis?). It feels harmonious toward the finish but does need to address the sulfur issue. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.
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    Burgundy 1 92-94 (WA) HK$20,150.00
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    Wine Advocate (92-94)

    Richer and more muscular than the elegant Charlemagne, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up notes of pear, citrus oil, beeswax, fresh hay and toasted nuts. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with ripe acids and chalky structuring extract.
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    Burgundy 2 93-95 (VN) HK$9,150.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2020 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is more expressive and terroir-driven on the nose compared to the Bâtard-Montrachet. The palate is well-balanced with fine poise, taut and fresh, quite spicy towards the finish with admirable length. I can see this ageing well in bottle. Very fine.
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    Burgundy 1 93-95 (VN) HK$10,550.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2021 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly more oxidative in style compared to the Bâtard-Montrachet, with grilled walnut and a subtle flor-like scent emerging with time. The palate is balanced with a vibrant opening. It has a little more horsepower than the Bâtard-Montrachet and a spicier finish. This gains intensity in the glass and does eventually overtake the Bâtard.
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    Burgundy 2 93-96 (BH) HK$8,715.00
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    Burghound (93-96)

    A much more subtle though not invisible touch of oak surrounds the even more floral-inflected aromas of blue berry liqueur, anise, tea and newly turned earth. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the very, very structured and hugely long and powerful finish. This is an absolute knockout and would be a candidate for the Bonnes Mares of the vintage.
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    Burgundy 1 92-94 (VN) HK$8,655.00
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    Vinous (92-94)

    The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has 100% whole bunch, though stems neatly enmeshed on the nose with hints of blueberry and cassis infusing the red fruit. A little timid at the moment, it will open with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, just a little chewiness on the entry. Structured on the finish, this is quite a "serious" Bonnes-Mares that just needs to muster more charm on the finish.
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    Burgundy 1 88-90 (VN) HK$8,945.00
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    Vinous (88-90)

    The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes 100% whole bunches this year, and those stems are conveyed strongly on the nose, not unattractive and yet obscure a bit of the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins. I feel the whole bunches risk overwhelming this Bonnes-Mares because there isn't sufficient fruit to soak them up. Let's see how this evolves.
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    Burgundy 1 88-90 (VN) HK$4,500.00
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    Vinous (88-90)

    A blend of several parcels including two declassified Premier Crus, the 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Village is matured with 20% whole bunch. The nose was showing some reduction, although there seems to be plenty of dark berry fruit here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, nicely judged acidity, a rounded texture and a silky-smooth finish. This is a well-crafted Chambolle Village.
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    Burgundy 3 91-93 (VN) HK$6,800.00
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    Vinous (91-93)

    The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from 114-year-old vines and is one of the few to contain stems this year, just 10%. It has an open-knit bouquet with red fruit, bay leaf and Earl Grey, nicely defined but certainly missing some power. The palate is clean and fresh with crunchy red fruit, slightly ferrous with a bit of dryness towards the finish. But there is a sense of complexity here, and I find this Charmes-Chambertin has plenty of character and sapidity.
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    Burgundy 1 92-94 (WA) HK$5,635.00
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    Wine Advocate (92-94)

    The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is promising, revealing lovely aromas of red cherries and raspberries mingled with rose petals and peonies, with little hint of the savory nuances to come. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, structurally refined but introverted, exhibiting fine balance and a precise finish. While it needs some time to round out, it clearly has fine potential.
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    Burgundy 4 96 (VN) HK$23,715.00
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    Vinous (96)

    The 2018 Musigny Grand Cru has a complex nose with evidence of some stem addition here lending an underlying peppery character. You could argue that at this stage it rather obscures the terroir expression, though the whole bunch seems commensurate with the fruit. The palate is crisp and precise, the stems lend a discrete peppery character. Not a powerful Musigny, yet perhaps the most elegant with a sensual kirsch-, liquorice-tinged finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.
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    Burgundy 2 95-98 (IB) HK$28,915.00
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    Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-98)

    100% whole bunch vinification. Most of the vines date back to 1928-29 with a few from 1989. Glowing imperial purple. The nose mirrors the majesty. Starts discreetly then swells on the palate. The wine is entirely harmonious with perfectly integrated light touch of acidity. It is very far from being massive but it is a beauty nonetheless.
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    Burgundy 1 98 (TA) HK$34,000.00
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    Tim Atkin MW (98)

    Coming from two parcels totaling only 0.2 hectares, this was whole cluster-fermented then aged in 40% new oak. It is seamless. Scents of mulberries and blueberries deliver impressive fruit purity. The spice-laden palate has a luxurious, taffeta-like texture with svelte tannins and elegant acidity. It is so well-knit that it is almost ready to drink now, but it will deliver pleasure for decades to come. 2024-42
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    Burgundy 1 91-93 (VN) HK$25,205.00
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    Vinous (91-93)

    The 2021 Musigny Grand Cru contains 100% whole bunches like the Bonnes-Mares this year, but they are better assimilated. Red berry fruit, undergrowth and light tobacco scents gently unfold. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, rather spicy, building in the mouth with white pepper touches towards the finish. It's a lovely wine but not a top-drawer Musigny.
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