Domaine de la Vougeraie
About Domaine de la Vougeraie
Created as recently as 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie has seen one of the most remarkable ascensions to prominence in the entire region. Jean-Claude Boisset (of the famous Boisset Group) took the seismic decision at the turn of the millennium to combine his unbelievable, yet disparate, Burgundian holdings from various négociant companies he had accrued over the years.
A monumentally successful decision, its title is derived from the significant holdings in Boisset’s home village of Vougeot. The winery itself is located not in Vougeot, but rather in Prémeaux - in the old Claudine Deschamps cellars. From this seat, general manager Sylvie Poillot coaxes and crafts sublime expressions of over 30 appellations totalling 40 hectares under vine.
Viniculture
These significant holdings, which include a stunning six Grands Crus, make Domaine de la Vougeraie one of the most important and influential producers in Burgundy – the gorgeous wines produced vintage after vintage make it one the best too. Boisset’s exceptional success, having founded his first eponymous négociant company at the age of 18, means no expense is spared in the viticultural or vinification process. Fully biodynamic practically from the instant it was formed as a Domaine, an entirely new suite of wooden fermentation vats and a state-of-the-art sorting table was added to the winery in Prémeaux.
The result has been some of the most critically acclaimed Burgundy of the past 20 years. The change in winemaker from Pascal Marchand to Pierre Vincent in 2005 has seen a more delicate and perhaps terroir-driven style from Vougeraie – Marchand preferred heavier extraction which resulted in powerful, but perhaps slightly blunted wines. In 2019, Sylvie Poillot has continued the winemaking philosophy of Vincent, crafting a range of wines with an inherent sense of place and judged to perfection in their construction.
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Burgundy | 1 | 88-90 (WA) | HK$6,195.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (88-90)The 2016 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot felt more austere on the nose compared to the Puligny Champ Gain. The palate is nicely balanced but maybe missing the complexity of that aforementioned premier cru. I appreciate the dab of spice on the finish, but I would like more personality to come through in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 92+ (WA) | HK$5,148.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92+)There are 13,053 bottles of Domaine de la Vougeraie's superb 2017 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, representing a modest yield for this emblematic monopole. Opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet of fresh green pear, peach, mandarin oil and petrol, framed by a discreet touch of nutty new oak, the wine is medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, with a delicate and elegantly tight-knit core of fruit and a long, precise finish. As readers may know, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (WA) | HK$6,215.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92)The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot has turned out nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, peach, orange oil and a generous but not overpowering application of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its textural attack segues into a tangy, vibrant mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. As readers will remember, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-91 (VN) | HK$6,455.00 | |||||
Vinous (89-91)The 2019 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, the 0.83-hectare monopole of the domaine, was picked three times. It was showing a bit of reduction on the nose when I visited. The rounded palate features lime cordial, tinned apricot and plenty of passion fruit and pineapple notes toward the finish. This is a delicious and seductive white Vougeot, although it is missing just a little tension and intellect overall. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$5,655.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2018 Vougeot Le Clos du Prieuré Blanc 1er Cru comes from a parcel near the Vouge River, which unfortunately leaves the vines vulnerable to hungry ducks. The bouquet is well defined with a little more mineral tension than the Beaune Blanc tasted alongside. The well-balanced palate offers passion fruit and pineapple notes and a fine bead of acidity; the prudent 20% new oak is just right. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 3 | - | HK$4,270.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | 88-90 (WA) | HK$7,430.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (88-90)The 2016 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot felt more austere on the nose compared to the Puligny Champ Gain. The palate is nicely balanced but maybe missing the complexity of that aforementioned premier cru. I appreciate the dab of spice on the finish, but I would like more personality to come through in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 92+ (WA) | HK$6,990.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92+)There are 13,053 bottles of Domaine de la Vougeraie's superb 2017 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, representing a modest yield for this emblematic monopole. Opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet of fresh green pear, peach, mandarin oil and petrol, framed by a discreet touch of nutty new oak, the wine is medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, with a delicate and elegantly tight-knit core of fruit and a long, precise finish. As readers may know, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (WA) | HK$6,075.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92)The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot has turned out nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, peach, orange oil and a generous but not overpowering application of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its textural attack segues into a tangy, vibrant mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. As readers will remember, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 94 (TA) | HK$5,475.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)Focused, bright and pretty, this is a savory, even saline, wine. There's an attractive leesiness on the nose followed by ample yellow fruits on the generous, juicy palate. Plums, sweet apples and cherries mesh on the long finish. I always find this wine delightful. 2022-28 |
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Burgundy | 1 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$5,155.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2021 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot was fairly reduced on the nose when tasted at the domaine and difficult to read. The palate is balanced with commendable weight and touches of tropical fruit with decent length, though surprisingly, given the vintage, it just needs a little more tension on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 6 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$6,485.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2021 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot was fairly reduced on the nose when tasted at the domaine and difficult to read. The palate is balanced with commendable weight and touches of tropical fruit with decent length, though surprisingly, given the vintage, it just needs a little more tension on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$14,220.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (VN) | HK$4,460.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2019 Vougeot Les Cras 1er Cru comes from 0.68 hectares of vines and includes 25% whole bunch. It has a focused, delineated bouquet of red berry fruit, briar, crushed rose petals and crushed rock. The palate is very well balanced and delivers more mineralité than many of the domaine’s Premier Crus, with impressive tension and focus toward the finish. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$6,355.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2019 Vougeot Le Clos de Prieuré Blanc 1er Cru comes from the 0.83-hectare monopole. Fresh apple blossom and wet limestone scents on the nose are flanked by white flowers. The palate is well defined with a fine bead of acidity. This is a slightly more linear and refined Clos de Prieuré Blanc than previous years, revealing a subtle spiciness on the finish. Very fine. |
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