Domaine de la Vougeraie
About Domaine de la Vougeraie
Created as recently as 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie has seen one of the most remarkable ascensions to prominence in the entire region. Jean-Claude Boisset (of the famous Boisset Group) took the seismic decision at the turn of the millennium to combine his unbelievable, yet disparate, Burgundian holdings from various négociant companies he had accrued over the years.
A monumentally successful decision, its title is derived from the significant holdings in Boisset’s home village of Vougeot. The winery itself is located not in Vougeot, but rather in Prémeaux - in the old Claudine Deschamps cellars. From this seat, general manager Sylvie Poillot coaxes and crafts sublime expressions of over 30 appellations totalling 40 hectares under vine.
Viniculture
These significant holdings, which include a stunning six Grands Crus, make Domaine de la Vougeraie one of the most important and influential producers in Burgundy – the gorgeous wines produced vintage after vintage make it one the best too. Boisset’s exceptional success, having founded his first eponymous négociant company at the age of 18, means no expense is spared in the viticultural or vinification process. Fully biodynamic practically from the instant it was formed as a Domaine, an entirely new suite of wooden fermentation vats and a state-of-the-art sorting table was added to the winery in Prémeaux.
The result has been some of the most critically acclaimed Burgundy of the past 20 years. The change in winemaker from Pascal Marchand to Pierre Vincent in 2005 has seen a more delicate and perhaps terroir-driven style from Vougeraie – Marchand preferred heavier extraction which resulted in powerful, but perhaps slightly blunted wines. In 2019, Sylvie Poillot has continued the winemaking philosophy of Vincent, crafting a range of wines with an inherent sense of place and judged to perfection in their construction.
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (WA) | HK$6,265.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92)The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot has turned out nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, peach, orange oil and a generous but not overpowering application of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its textural attack segues into a tangy, vibrant mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. As readers will remember, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (WA) | HK$5,125.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)Richer and more muscular than the elegant Charlemagne, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up notes of pear, citrus oil, beeswax, fresh hay and toasted nuts. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with ripe acids and chalky structuring extract. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (WA) | HK$20,115.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)Richer and more muscular than the elegant Charlemagne, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up notes of pear, citrus oil, beeswax, fresh hay and toasted nuts. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with ripe acids and chalky structuring extract. |
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Burgundy | 5 | 95 (VN) | HK$4,190.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has quite an intense bouquet with honeysuckle, melon, lime and a touch of corn flour. The palate is well balanced with a saline note on the entry that gets the saliva racing. Good depth, quite powerful with a lightly spiced and very insistent finish. This is very promising and a big success for Vougeraie. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-96 (BH) | HK$6,125.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-96)A much more subtle though not invisible touch of oak surrounds the even more floral-inflected aromas of blue berry liqueur, anise, tea and newly turned earth. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the very, very structured and hugely long and powerful finish. This is an absolute knockout and would be a candidate for the Bonnes Mares of the vintage. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (BH) | HK$10,125.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-96)A much more subtle though not invisible touch of oak surrounds the even more floral-inflected aromas of blue berry liqueur, anise, tea and newly turned earth. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the very, very structured and hugely long and powerful finish. This is an absolute knockout and would be a candidate for the Bonnes Mares of the vintage. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$3,335.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2018 Chambertin-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, great tension and focus, and real precision and poise on the sustained finish. This is an absolute delight! |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$11,490.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2018 Chambertin-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, great tension and focus, and real precision and poise on the sustained finish. This is an absolute delight! |
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Burgundy | 3 | 92-94 (WA) | HK$6,435.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is promising, revealing lovely aromas of red cherries and raspberries mingled with rose petals and peonies, with little hint of the savory nuances to come. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, structurally refined but introverted, exhibiting fine balance and a precise finish. While it needs some time to round out, it clearly has fine potential. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 92-94 (WA) | HK$9,605.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is promising, revealing lovely aromas of red cherries and raspberries mingled with rose petals and peonies, with little hint of the savory nuances to come. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, structurally refined but introverted, exhibiting fine balance and a precise finish. While it needs some time to round out, it clearly has fine potential. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 92-94 (WA) | HK$10,710.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92-94)The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is promising, revealing lovely aromas of red cherries and raspberries mingled with rose petals and peonies, with little hint of the savory nuances to come. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, structurally refined but introverted, exhibiting fine balance and a precise finish. While it needs some time to round out, it clearly has fine potential. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$2,145.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2018 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru contains 65% whole-bunch fruit. The well-defined nose features brambly black fruit, crushed stone/powdered gravel and light tobacco scents. The medium-bodied palate is linear, precise and elegant, delivering fine-grained tannins with moderate grip and a slightly conservative finish. I suspect this will ultimately turn out to be a well-crafted yet early-drinking Corton. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$7,220.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2018 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru contains 65% whole-bunch fruit. The well-defined nose features brambly black fruit, crushed stone/powdered gravel and light tobacco scents. The medium-bodied palate is linear, precise and elegant, delivering fine-grained tannins with moderate grip and a slightly conservative finish. I suspect this will ultimately turn out to be a well-crafted yet early-drinking Corton. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$7,700.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2018 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru contains 65% whole-bunch fruit. The well-defined nose features brambly black fruit, crushed stone/powdered gravel and light tobacco scents. The medium-bodied palate is linear, precise and elegant, delivering fine-grained tannins with moderate grip and a slightly conservative finish. I suspect this will ultimately turn out to be a well-crafted yet early-drinking Corton. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (VN) | HK$5,125.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2018 Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from two parcels in Le Charlemagne, in Aloxe-Corton and En Charlemagne on the Pernand side, picked one week apart since the latter takes longer to ripen. It has an excellent bouquet of intense pressed flowers and chalk-infused citrus fruit. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, poised and pretty, revealing orange peel and touches of ginger toward the finish. Drink over the next 12–15 years. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$4,170.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Bel-Air 1er Cru comes from vines close to the forest, leaving it vulnerable to hungry boars. At 30% whole-bunch fruit, it has an attractive bouquet with pressed rose petals and a touch of lavender infusing the red berry fruit. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins. Quite lithe and supple, with gentle grip and a well-defined, minerally finish. Recommended. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$5,655.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2018 Vougeot Le Clos du Prieuré Blanc 1er Cru comes from a parcel near the Vouge River, which unfortunately leaves the vines vulnerable to hungry ducks. The bouquet is well defined with a little more mineral tension than the Beaune Blanc tasted alongside. The well-balanced palate offers passion fruit and pineapple notes and a fine bead of acidity; the prudent 20% new oak is just right. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (WA) | HK$6,035.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92)The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot has turned out nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, peach, orange oil and a generous but not overpowering application of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its textural attack segues into a tangy, vibrant mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. As readers will remember, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée. |
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