Domaine de la Vougeraie
About Domaine de la Vougeraie
Created as recently as 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie has seen one of the most remarkable ascensions to prominence in the entire region. Jean-Claude Boisset (of the famous Boisset Group) took the seismic decision at the turn of the millennium to combine his unbelievable, yet disparate, Burgundian holdings from various négociant companies he had accrued over the years.
A monumentally successful decision, its title is derived from the significant holdings in Boisset’s home village of Vougeot. The winery itself is located not in Vougeot, but rather in Prémeaux - in the old Claudine Deschamps cellars. From this seat, general manager Sylvie Poillot coaxes and crafts sublime expressions of over 30 appellations totalling 40 hectares under vine.
Viniculture
These significant holdings, which include a stunning six Grands Crus, make Domaine de la Vougeraie one of the most important and influential producers in Burgundy – the gorgeous wines produced vintage after vintage make it one the best too. Boisset’s exceptional success, having founded his first eponymous négociant company at the age of 18, means no expense is spared in the viticultural or vinification process. Fully biodynamic practically from the instant it was formed as a Domaine, an entirely new suite of wooden fermentation vats and a state-of-the-art sorting table was added to the winery in Prémeaux.
The result has been some of the most critically acclaimed Burgundy of the past 20 years. The change in winemaker from Pascal Marchand to Pierre Vincent in 2005 has seen a more delicate and perhaps terroir-driven style from Vougeraie – Marchand preferred heavier extraction which resulted in powerful, but perhaps slightly blunted wines. In 2019, Sylvie Poillot has continued the winemaking philosophy of Vincent, crafting a range of wines with an inherent sense of place and judged to perfection in their construction.
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (BH) | HK$10,125.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-96)A much more subtle though not invisible touch of oak surrounds the even more floral-inflected aromas of blue berry liqueur, anise, tea and newly turned earth. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the very, very structured and hugely long and powerful finish. This is an absolute knockout and would be a candidate for the Bonnes Mares of the vintage. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$18,915.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has 100% whole bunch, though stems neatly enmeshed on the nose with hints of blueberry and cassis infusing the red fruit. A little timid at the moment, it will open with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, just a little chewiness on the entry. Structured on the finish, this is quite a "serious" Bonnes-Mares that just needs to muster more charm on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$8,805.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes 100% whole bunches this year, and those stems are conveyed strongly on the nose, not unattractive and yet obscure a bit of the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins. I feel the whole bunches risk overwhelming this Bonnes-Mares because there isn't sufficient fruit to soak them up. Let's see how this evolves. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$11,080.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyeres comes across a big, powerful and super intense. It bursts from the glass with huge dark fruit, freshly cut flowers, tar and licorice, all of which come together with notable intensity. The 2009 shows off superb textural richness all the way through to the finish. The Charmes is young, young, young. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96+ (VN) | HK$10,300.00 | |||||
Vinous (96+)An utterly beguiling wine, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères is constantly changing in the glass. Violets, sage, rosemary, pipe tobacco and cedar meld into a core of deep, resonant black fruit. The 2011 is marked by cool veins of minerality that give the wine its piercing intensity and brightness. At times polished and refined while at other times wilder and more extroverted, the 2011 impresses for its multiple shades of contrast. What a gorgeous wine this is. The 2011 was done with 80% whole clusters and aged in 80% new oak. This is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93+ (WA) | HK$3,335.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93+)Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru has a lighter bouquet than its peers, a little simplistic for a grand cru although it does improve in the glass, becoming savory with hints of dried blood. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, good weight if missing sophistication and breeding, showing a slight bitterness towards the dry finish and yet you cannot help but feel this is going to turn into a lovely Charmes-Chambertin. Maybe this is enduring a dumb phase ... you will just have to wait it out. Tasted September 2016. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93+ (WA) | HK$8,515.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93+)Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru has a lighter bouquet than its peers, a little simplistic for a grand cru although it does improve in the glass, becoming savory with hints of dried blood. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, good weight if missing sophistication and breeding, showing a slight bitterness towards the dry finish and yet you cannot help but feel this is going to turn into a lovely Charmes-Chambertin. Maybe this is enduring a dumb phase ... you will just have to wait it out. Tasted September 2016. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$4,130.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 80% whole cluster fruit this year, a high percentage due to the age of the vines planted in 1902. There is fine delineation here, precise black cherry and cranberry scents with a touch of cold granite. It is a nose that demands respect, deservedly so. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple black and red fruit, very pure and smooth with a graceful, marmalade-tinged finish that lingers. This should grow up to be a very seductive, comely Charmes-Chambertin with a long future ahead. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$7,000.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 80% whole cluster fruit this year, a high percentage due to the age of the vines planted in 1902. There is fine delineation here, precise black cherry and cranberry scents with a touch of cold granite. It is a nose that demands respect, deservedly so. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple black and red fruit, very pure and smooth with a graceful, marmalade-tinged finish that lingers. This should grow up to be a very seductive, comely Charmes-Chambertin with a long future ahead. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$8,020.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 80% whole cluster fruit this year, a high percentage due to the age of the vines planted in 1902. There is fine delineation here, precise black cherry and cranberry scents with a touch of cold granite. It is a nose that demands respect, deservedly so. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple black and red fruit, very pure and smooth with a graceful, marmalade-tinged finish that lingers. This should grow up to be a very seductive, comely Charmes-Chambertin with a long future ahead. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93 (WA) | HK$8,535.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2015 Charmes Chambertin les Mazoyeres Grand Cru offers up notes of red and black fruit, beetroot, earth and whole cluster spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and silky, with an expansive attack, a layered mid-palate and a long, saline finish. This is quite stylized, marked by whole cluster fermentation which seems to give it a high pH feel, but for admirers of this particular aesthetic—a perspective my score reflects—this should offer two decades of rewarding drinking. |
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Burgundy | 8 | 93 (WA) | HK$3,335.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2015 Charmes Chambertin les Mazoyeres Grand Cru offers up notes of red and black fruit, beetroot, earth and whole cluster spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and silky, with an expansive attack, a layered mid-palate and a long, saline finish. This is quite stylized, marked by whole cluster fermentation which seems to give it a high pH feel, but for admirers of this particular aesthetic—a perspective my score reflects—this should offer two decades of rewarding drinking. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$8,865.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2015 Charmes Chambertin les Mazoyeres Grand Cru offers up notes of red and black fruit, beetroot, earth and whole cluster spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and silky, with an expansive attack, a layered mid-palate and a long, saline finish. This is quite stylized, marked by whole cluster fermentation which seems to give it a high pH feel, but for admirers of this particular aesthetic—a perspective my score reflects—this should offer two decades of rewarding drinking. |
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Burgundy | 5 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$2,935.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from the oldest vines owned by the domaine, now 104 years old, which apparently have no disease and still offer good yields at around 30hl/ha. It has a quite a backward bouquet that gradually unfurls to reveal crushed stone, broom and Provençal herb aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, the 80% whole bunches neatly integrated, and gentle grip toward the finish. Good potential here. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$10,430.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from the oldest vines owned by the domaine, now 104 years old, which apparently have no disease and still offer good yields at around 30hl/ha. It has a quite a backward bouquet that gradually unfurls to reveal crushed stone, broom and Provençal herb aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, the 80% whole bunches neatly integrated, and gentle grip toward the finish. Good potential here. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$3,335.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2018 Chambertin-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, great tension and focus, and real precision and poise on the sustained finish. This is an absolute delight! |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$11,490.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2018 Chambertin-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, great tension and focus, and real precision and poise on the sustained finish. This is an absolute delight! |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-96 (VN) | HK$14,780.00 | |||||
Vinous (94-96)From 104-year-old vines that are still productive, the 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 100% whole bunches. It might well possess my pick of the bouquets from Vougeraie, offering vibrant red berry fruit infused with lovely incense and blood orange scents. The harmonious palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and beautiful balance. Very persistent in the mouth. This is an excellent Charmes-Chambertin. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 91-93 (VN) | HK$6,695.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from 114-year-old vines and is one of the few to contain stems this year, just 10%. It has an open-knit bouquet with red fruit, bay leaf and Earl Grey, nicely defined but certainly missing some power. The palate is clean and fresh with crunchy red fruit, slightly ferrous with a bit of dryness towards the finish. But there is a sense of complexity here, and I find this Charmes-Chambertin has plenty of character and sapidity. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$13,840.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 3 | - | HK$6,960.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | - | HK$37,620.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | 93 (VN) | HK$9,065.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru currently shows a lot of reduction on the nose, although there is plenty of fruit packed behind. The palate is rounded on the entry with moderate acidity, but again, the reduction is suppressing the fruit at the moment. Yet it does convey a sense of purity, and the harmony is tangible behind that reductive veneer. Give this four or five years in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93 (VN) | HK$5,745.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru currently shows a lot of reduction on the nose, although there is plenty of fruit packed behind. The palate is rounded on the entry with moderate acidity, but again, the reduction is suppressing the fruit at the moment. Yet it does convey a sense of purity, and the harmony is tangible behind that reductive veneer. Give this four or five years in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93 (VN) | HK$24,530.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru currently shows a lot of reduction on the nose, although there is plenty of fruit packed behind. The palate is rounded on the entry with moderate acidity, but again, the reduction is suppressing the fruit at the moment. Yet it does convey a sense of purity, and the harmony is tangible behind that reductive veneer. Give this four or five years in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 94-96 (WA) | HK$12,235.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94-96)The 2016 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a very concentrated and intense bouquet with citrus fruit, wild mint, orange cordial and a hint of wild heather. The palate is fresh and tensile, very concentrated with a fine line of acidity, just a hint of blackcurrant leaf and curry leaf toward the finish. This is one of the best Chevalier-Montrachet’s out there, a beautifully crafted, succinct wine that should give two decades of drinking pleasure. |
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Burgundy | 5 | 94-96 (WA) | HK$6,435.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94-96)The 2016 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a very concentrated and intense bouquet with citrus fruit, wild mint, orange cordial and a hint of wild heather. The palate is fresh and tensile, very concentrated with a fine line of acidity, just a hint of blackcurrant leaf and curry leaf toward the finish. This is one of the best Chevalier-Montrachet’s out there, a beautifully crafted, succinct wine that should give two decades of drinking pleasure. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 95 (VN) | HK$12,235.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru showed just a little reduction on the nose, displaying a faint cough candy scent along with yellow flowers and lemon thyme; an underlying steeliness emerges with continued aeration. The palate has a lime- and orange-peel-tinged entry, good weight and less reduction than the aromatics. It feels fresh and lightly spiced toward a citric, energetic, complex finish. This has a lot of potential and was easily the best showing from the estate at the Burgfest blind tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$33,285.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru showed just a little reduction on the nose, displaying a faint cough candy scent along with yellow flowers and lemon thyme; an underlying steeliness emerges with continued aeration. The palate has a lime- and orange-peel-tinged entry, good weight and less reduction than the aromatics. It feels fresh and lightly spiced toward a citric, energetic, complex finish. This has a lot of potential and was easily the best showing from the estate at the Burgfest blind tasting. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 95 (WSM) | HK$3,175.00 | |||||
Wine & Spirit Magazine (95)Vougeraie owns close to 2.5 acres of vines in Clos de Vougeot, in the northwest sector of the vineyard, including several blocks planted in the late 1940s and early ?50s. Farmed under biodynamics since 2001, the vines produce a true grand cru wine, the 2010 seductive and monastically severe at once. Its scent is awesome: the perfume of the earth after a rain, the essence of cherries and pressed flowers. The flavor is dense, a youthfully blank slate that fills with the interplay of sun and earth as the complexity develops for minutes after each taste. Check on this with ten years of bottle age; it?s destined for greatness. |
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