Spirits



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Spirits

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Whisky barrel hall Scotland

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Madeira 3 18 (JR) HK$4,015.00
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Jancis Robinson (18)

A carpenter’s workshop, filled with the scent of freshly sawn and planed wood. Sweet tobacco. A distinctly feral, ‘animal’ smell. Dried meadow flowers and hay. Dried orange-peel dust. Something almost lactic. It changes from sip to sip, moment to moment. First dry, then sweet. Bitter, for a second, then turning tender. Jagged edges melt silky smooth from along the slim ribbon of its structure. Demanding and volatile; then tucking charms into your palm. The intensity of the flavours – explosive bitter-sweet oranges, hit-gingered quince, cinnamon and cumin, sour cherries in Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, decayed-wood dust – is startling, and yet the wine is fine-boned, almost ethereal. William Chester Minor, surgeon, wordsmith, schizophrenic and one of the greatest contributors to the Oxford English Dictionary, was attributed the quote, ‘Listen to the leaves scratch the air. Sometimes it sounds like gunfire. Sometimes like applause.’ I thought of those words when I tasted this wine. Food pairings: spanakopita; cauliflower pakora with spiced onion chutney; welsh rarebit; fried grouse with orange sauce.
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