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Rioja 1 96 (DC) HK$2,005.00
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Decanter (96)

Beautiful nose coconut cream, vanilla and mocha nose. Smooth and mellow on the rich and velvety palate with lots of sweet spices, dates and chocolate-covered currants. Long-lasting and utterly delicious.
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Rioja 1 - HK$2,400.00
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Rioja 1 95 (WA) HK$2,400.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

The red flagship 2006 Viña Tondonia Reserva was inspired by the vineyards of the Médoc but produced with local grapes, 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, which achieved 13% alcohol in 2006. It always matures in used American oak barriques for some six years. The oldest of all the reds I tasted, it was also the one with more freshness, which speaks to the quality of the vineyard. This takes the lion's share of the 400,000 bottles the winery produces, with some 220,000 bottles filled over a period of 12 consecutive days in May 2014.
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Rioja 1 96 (WA) HK$2,460.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

Following the appreciation of the 2007 vintage from María José López de Heredia, the red 2007 Viña Tondonia Reserva is showing great, revealing unusual finesse and elegance. The nose is a little reticent but nuanced and complex, a little shy rather than explosive. The palate is medium-bodied, and the tannins are very refined. This has to be one of the finest vintages of Viña Tondonia Reserva of recent years. 200,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2015.
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Rioja 1 97 (TA) HK$2,340.00
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Tim Atkin MW (97)

Tondonia's reds have been on an upward curve recently and are now at the same level as the bodega's world-class whites. This is a fine, elegant, savoury, low-alcohol blend of Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Mazuelo and Graciano, combining summer berry fruit, racy acidity, granular tannins and an earthy, balsamic undertone. Good now, but this will develop further in bottle.
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Rioja 1 99 (JS) HK$8,900.00
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James Suckling (99)

Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.
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Rioja 1 - HK$5,995.00
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Rioja 1 100 (WA) HK$19,950.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.
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Catalunya 1 96 (WA) HK$3,788.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The flagship 2018 Clos Martinet is the wine that started it all and is still a blend of Garnacha (Tinta and Peluda), Syrah, Cariñena, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Monastrell as it was since the beginning but now with a restrained 13.5% alcohol and higher acidity. Clos Martinet is a single five-hectare terraced vineyard planted with clonal material in 1986 on decomposed llicorella slate, iron and big rocks in the soil. The varieties are co-fermented depending on the date picked—at three different ripening times—in two concrete vats and 200-liter oak vats with indigenous yeast and whole clusters. The beginning and end of the élevage was in concrete, and in between they used 2,000- and 4,100-liter oak vats and some 20% in glass demijohn and amphorae. The wine is subtle and a bit shy, insinuating rather than in your face. There is a lot less ripeness than in the past. It's medium-bodied and fluid, fresh and balanced. This is a very elegant Clos Martinet. 11,070 bottles and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in June 2020.
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Castilla y Leon 1 97 (DWWA) HK$840.00
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Decanter World Wine Awards 2023 (97)

Our Best in Show journey across Northern Spain continues with a 2020 Bierzo, grown just across the provincial border from Galicia into Castilla y Léon. It’s another zone of steep slopes and old vines – the variety in this case being Mencia (known as Jaen in Portugal’s Dão region). This wine is deep black-red in colour and vivacious and urgent in aroma: wild plums mingled with the woodland scents of leaf, copse and forest floor. The palate is fruit-packed and vibrant, vigorous with an energy derived both from ripe acidity and fresh though smooth tannins; look out, too, for a stony, bitter-edged finish perhaps derived from the region’s slate soils. Wonderful drinking now in the flush of youth, but fruit of this quality will hold well for a few years yet.
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Rioja 1 98 (JS) HK$4,980.00
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James Suckling (98)

This is amazing traditional Rioja with a complexity and beauty of ripe fruit and long aging. Unique. Full body, ultra-fine tannins, tobacco, vanilla, plums and prunes. It lasts for minutes on the palate. Three years aged in oak and three years in bottle. 80% tempranillo with the rest of the classic varieties. All from high altitude vineyards.
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Castilla y Leon 1 94+ (WA) HK$2,300.00
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Wine Advocate (94+)

The youngest of the reds I tasted, the 2019 Pícaro del Águila Tinto is their most approachable red and is still serious, vibrant and aromatic with great length and still has good aging potential. They use the grapes from the warmest vineyards they have in the village of La Aguilera, form the northern part closer to La Horra, mostly Tempranillo but with some 5% of other varieties (red and white) interplanted in the old vineyards, fermented together with full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in French oak barrels for 15 months. Like the 2019 Clarete, this is young and tender and has more tension than I expected for a warmer year. It has less oak than previous years (only 10% or 15% new barrels), and the wine feels better balanced and is floral and aromatic. It's medium-bodied with a very fine texture, a pretty wine that drinks very well and doesn't reflect a warm year at all, as it has incredible freshness. A great Pícaro. They produced 69,852 bottles and 850 magnums, a notable increase in volume... while they increase the quality! It was bottled in February 2021.
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Castilla y Leon 1 97 (DC) HK$2,000.00
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Decanter (97)

Gorgeous spicy black fruit and prune nose. Round, ripe tannins and precise blackberry fruit on the palate with great character and hints of spice box and cedarwood. An outstanding Ribera with prodigious length and persistence.
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Castilla y Leon 1 95 (WA) HK$2,000.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

Raúl Pérez has purchased the plot of El Rapolao that he uses for La Vizcaína, close to 1.3 hectares, and they expect the wine to have a big change as they are taking over the viticulture and want to lower yields. The 2019 La Vizcaína El Rapolao has plenty of tannin and is more concentrated than the 2020. 5,000 bottles produced.
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Castilla y Leon 1 96 (WA) HK$1,460.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The 2019 La Vizcaína La Vitoriana comes from sandy soils and mostly north-facing vines, delivering elegant and floral wines. It's very young and fruit-driven, perhaps not as complex as the 2020. All of these reds are around 13.5% alcohol, medium-bodied and quite harmonious. 2019 was one of the larger crops, and there are 7,000 bottles of this.
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Castilla y Leon 1 96 (WA) HK$1,430.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The 2019 La Vizcaína La Vitoriana comes from sandy soils and mostly north-facing vines, delivering elegant and floral wines. It's very young and fruit-driven, perhaps not as complex as the 2020. All of these reds are around 13.5% alcohol, medium-bodied and quite harmonious. 2019 was one of the larger crops, and there are 7,000 bottles of this.
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Castilla y Leon 1 95 (VN) HK$4,000.00
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Vinous (95)

Glistening ruby. Expansive aromas of black raspberry and cherry cola are complemented by pungent floral flourishes, incense and exotic spices. Seamless and energetic on the palate, offering juicy, spice-tinged red and dark berry preserve, violet pastille and mocha flavors. Becomes sweeter and deeper on the strikingly long, seamless finish, which features polished tannins and resonating spice and floral qualities.
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Catalunya 1 97 (WA) HK$4,000.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

This time there were two vintages of the top-of-the-range red to taste, as the 2014 is almost finished and the 2015 Clos Mogador will be released soon. In this warmer vintage, there is a little more Cariñena in the blend, with the final breakdown something like 45% Garnacha, 29% Cariñena, 16% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This had the same vinification and aging as the 2014: fermentation with indigenous yeasts and a 35- to 45-day maceration, followed by an élevage in 300-liter barrels and 2,000-liter foudres that lasted 18 months. 2015 is a rounder and easier year than 2014, and it feels a little riper, supple but with good freshness. It's clean and precise with nicely integrated oak. This was an easy vintage for the winery, and the wines are easy to understand and more approachable early on. 31,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2017.
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Catalunya 1 96 (WA) HK$7,888.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The top Cariñena is the 2013 Les Tosses, which for Dominik Huber is the pure expression of graphite and cherries, from an ancient plot on black slate soils fermented with full clusters and a short maceration and matured in oak foudres for two years. There was a volatile whiff and that sensation of warm slate that really transported me to the character of the roads in Priorat. There's also something that made me think of iron and raw meat. It's all relative of course, because compared to most other Priorats, this would feel extremely elegant and floral. The palate has even more of that tactile sensation of the graphite, with abundant, albeit extremely fine tannins and showing great balance. Some 1,000 bottles were filled in August 2015.
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Catalunya 1 97 (VN) HK$2,855.00
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Vinous (97)

Glistening ruby-red. Highly perfumed aromas of fresh red and blue fruits, candied lavender and exotic spices are complemented by a smoky mineral overtone. Sappy and energetic on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, cherry and floral pastille flavors that slowly put on weight and turn spicier through the midpalate. The floral and mineral qualities repeat emphatically on the gently tannic finish, which clings with serious tenacity and persistent spiciness. Sourced from a 1.9-hectare, high-altitude plot that was planted in the mid-1930s.
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Castilla y Leon 1 97 (TA) HK$3,000.00
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Tim Atkin MW (97)

One of the great wines of Spain, not just Ribera del Duero, Mirum comes from a single, 1.2-hectare parcel in Baños de Valdearados. Fermented in concrete vats and aged in 20% new wood, it's pure, focused and violetscented, with pure plum and black cherry fruit, wonderful vivacity and focus, textured tannins, subtle wood spices and a long, chiselled, balanced finish. Drink 2023-32
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Castilla y Leon 1 - HK$1,600.00
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A gorgeous Tempranillo that has been left to slumber in the winery cellar for close to two decades, this ex-winery parcel of Valsardo Ribera del Duero Reserva Superior 2002 is a total no brainer. Showcasing fully integrated, soft and supple tannins, there remains plenty of lovely black fruit with classic gamey and leathery notes alongside its impeccable backbone and freshness. Made without sulphur and at only 12.5% ABV, this blend of 90% Tempranillo, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, has aged amazing well.

Sourced directly from the winery, this parcel is, in fact, a clearance sale as the winery no longer bottles under its own label, and as such they are selling off all remaining inventory. With the winery now having halted production, this is a piece of Ribera del Duero history.
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Castilla y Leon 1 96 (JS) HK$6,000.00
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James Suckling (96)

Fresh and very floral with violets and berries. Blackberries and orange peel, too. Medium-to full-bodied with firm, linear tannins. Excellent length and structure. Seriously structured, Better after 2024, but already beautiful.
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Rioja 1 97 (TA) HK$3,780.00
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Tim Atkin MW (97)

Little by little, this no-expense-spared winery is approaching the peak of Rioja and now deserves to be considered among the region’s leading producers. Fine, perfumed, elegant and well balanced, with notes of blackberry and orange zest, complemented by sweet, aromatic oak and finishing with freshness and balletic poise.
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Castilla y Leon 2 95 (VN) HK$4,020.00
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Vinous (95)

Saturated ruby. Expansive cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and exotic spice aromas are complemented by subtle licorice and woodsmoke flourishes. Vibrant and sharply focused in the mouth, with a spine of juicy acidity adding focus to palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur, violet pastille, mocha and spicecake flavors. The floral quality resonates emphatically on the clinging finish, which features lingering cherry and smoky mineral notes. There's noteworthy elegance here, a trait that's not exactly common for Toro.
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Castilla y Leon 1 97 (VN) HK$9,360.00
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Vinous (97)

(fermented in large oak tanks and aged for six years in new French and American oak barriques) Saturated ruby. Explosively perfumed aromas of fresh ripe red fruits, floral oils, pipe tobacco and incense take on sexy vanilla and woodsmoke nuances as the wine opens up. Densely packed yet shockingly lithe on the palate, offering intense cherry liqueur, red currant and spicecake flavors given spine by a core of juicy acidity. Shows superb energy and clarity, finishing sweet, smoky and extremely long; velvety tannins add gentle grip.
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Castilla y Leon 1 100 (JS) HK$7,600.00
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James Suckling (100)

Incredibly floral and beautiful with dark berry, spice, cedar and mint. Chinese plums. Asian spices. Bark. Tea. Full body, dense and so soft and complex. The finish goes on for minutes. Endless and fine. January 2017 release. This reminds me of the gorgeous 1991 or 1964. Drink forever. A wine that you want to spend time with.
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Castilla y Leon 1 100 (TA) HK$8,888.00
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Tim Atkin MW (100)

Vega Sicilia Único Reserva 2010 (14%) Perfection is as rare in wine as it is in most things in life, but this is a stunning Único, reflecting the quality of one of the greatest vintages of the last century. Blended with 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, as it was in 2009, it's still a very youthful wine right now, with closeknit tannins, thrilling acidity, layers of spices, fresh earth, tobacco, red and black fruits, some oak sweetness and a wonderfully refreshing, leafy undertone. Simply stunning.
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Castilla y Leon 2 96 (WA) HK$3,350.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

2017 was marked by the frost of the night between April 27 and 28 that Vega Sicilia fought with their anti-frost towers. The end of the season was warm, and the overall rain was low, 235 liters. The 2017 Valbuena is marked by these circumstances, produced with 94% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and 6% Merlot, with good ripeness (14.5% alcohol) and mellow acidity (4.65 grams of tartaric acid and a pH of 3.85). The grapes were cooled down and took three to four days of maceration to start fermenting with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured in a combination of new and used French and American 225-liter oak barrels and 21,000-liter oak vats for almost three years. The result, for whatever reason, was nothing short of spectacular. The wine is perfumed, floral, expressive and balsamic like few vintages before. It doesn't feel like a 2017 at all; it is harmonious, and the tannins were fine. It's an amazing Valbuena that clearly transcends the character of the vintage. What I see here is that since 2010, the wine has a very high consistency. And in 2017 it excels. 170,071 bottles, 5,516 magnums and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in June 2020.
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Castilla y Leon 1 97 (TA) HK$4,250.00
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Tim Atkin MW (97)

What a début! Even given the distinguished track record of consultant Jean-Claude Berrouet, this is a remarkable wine. Elegant and refreshing, it has very fine tannins, floral top notes, subtle oak and just a hint of leafiness from 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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