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Champagne 1 20++ (MJ) HK$8,900.00
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Matthew Jukes (20++)

Made from 100% Chardonnay and coming from Chouilly (40%), Cramant (33%), Mesnil-sur-Oger (22%) and Avize (7%), with one-third fermented and aged in old oak barrels and a dosage of 7 g/L, this is becoming a relatively familiar recipe for this elite House and yet there is nothing familiar about the flavour of this epic new release. Billecart-Salmon’s elite Blanc de Blancs is named after Louis, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon, who co-founded this illustrious Champagne house over two centuries ago with her husband, Nicolas François Billecart. This is the third release of Louis, and it is, again, completely different in shape and size to the beautiful 2006 (19/20) and crystalline 2007 (19.5/20). The oak was enhanced from 5% in the 2006 vintage to 50% in the 2007 and now it has been knocked back a touch, and this certainly serves to enhance the splendour of the sensational 2008 vintage fruit. I didn’t note that Avize fruit was used in the 2007, but I think it was in the 2006. Either way, I am confident that this tinkering around the edges has heightened the attack of this incredible wine. The delivery here is something to behold. It is clear from the nose that this wine is made with a horologist’s precision, and while everything starts quietly, there is an uncommon determination here that keeps on coming, leaving you panting with pleasure. On the palate, 2008 Louis perfectly balances extreme tension and white-knuckle drama with the most enchanting and serene jasmine, white tea, and linden blossom notes. It seems mesmerisingly composed from one side of the glass and hellbent on rearranging your taste buds via a national grid-sized electric shock from the other. I am not suggesting that this wine is too young to approach now because, at fourteen years of age, you can drink it, just be aware that this might be one of the wines with the most potential I have ever tasted from this incredible estate. As always with Billecart, the bubbles are minuscule, and the colour is as pale as can be, so there are no particular visual clues as to the greatness in the glass, but once the perfume takes hold and it pulls you to the glass, you are entirely within its control. I venture that Blanc de Blancs fans will go gaga when they taste this wine. It further improves on the magnificence of the two preceding vintages, and whether or not this is to do with the oak regime or the exact percentage of fruit drawn from each of the Grands Crus villages, I don’t know. However, I am certain that 2008 is a jaw-droppingly serious vintage and eclipses both 2006 and 2007 in terms of sheer class. Therefore, even at this early age, I am convinced that this is the birth of another perfect wine from Billecart-Salmon, and it is certainly the finest value 20/20 from this magnificent House, too.
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Champagne 1 19+ (MJ) HK$8,900.00
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Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.
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Champagne 1 99 (JD) HK$8,180.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2008 La Grande Année is another brilliant 2008 that delivers the goods. Straight-up awesome notes of stone fruits, white flowers, honeysuckle, and an incredible, liquid rock-like minerality all emerge from the glass, and it develops more nuance, spice, toasted bread, and an almost Alsatian Riesling-like petrol character over the course of the evening. It’s a full-bodied, rich, powerful Champagne, yet like the top 2008s, it has brilliant precision, purity, and focus. It’s unquestionably one of the finest versions of this cuvée ever produced, although it needs another 4-5 years of bottle age to hit prime time. It should keep for 3-4 decades. Bravo!
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California 1 97+ (WA) HK$14,960.00
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Wine Advocate (97+)

Very deep purple-black colored, the 2014 Pluribus offers up notions of crushed black plums, black currant cordial and pencil shavings over a meaty core of chargrill and beef drippings plus hints of Chinese five spice and underbrush. Full-bodied and firmly framed with chewy tannins and a lively backbone, it features plenty of earthy and savory layers, finishing long and minerally.
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Piedmont 1 96 (JS) HK$7,100.00
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James Suckling (96)

Impressive fresh leather-clad red cherries with a subtle earthiness in the background. Quite pure. Floral and aromatic. The palate has a very elegant yet powerful core of blueberries and cherries. A smooth release of fruit sweetness into the fresh and vibrant finish. Elegant and classic. More open than normal. Impressive now but better from 2022.
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California 1 96 (JD) HK$4,200.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (96)

The 2014 Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard is about as classic example of Calera Pinot Noir as you can find. Loads of sweet black raspberries, sassafras, plums, Asian spice and ginger notes emerge from this ripe, full-bodied, sexy, concentrated 2014 that has plenty of mid-palate depth, nicely integrated acidity, fine tannin and a big finish. It’s a forward, pleasure-bent beauty that shares some similarities to the Selleck Vineyard, and will keep for two decades or more.
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California 1 95+ (VN) HK$4,800.00
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Vinous (95+)

The 2014 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is a powerful, bombastic wine with huge fruit and equally imposing tannins that demand patience. Waves of dark, deeply sketched fruit hit the palate in a virile Pinot Noir that is going to need at least several years to truly come into its own. By no means a shy wine, the Ryan also has tremendous potential. In 2014, the Ryan was done with 70% whole clusters, which is a bit lower than normal.
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Champagne 1 97 (WE) HK$7,800.00
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Wine Enthusiast (97)

Aged for 10 years on its lees before disgorgement, this impressive vintage Champagne is perfectly mature. The touches of maturity have moved the wine into richness, the fruit and acidity filling out and deepening. This is a great Champagne from a great vintage, ready to drink.
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South Australia 1 98 HK$2,900.00
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This is sensational with blackberries, blueberries and mineral. Extremely floral, too. Full-bodied but so seamless and refined with polished tannins that just melts into the wine. Goes on for minutes. A subtle and glorious wine that will be a new classic for Napa Valley. An emotional red that touches your soul. Energy. 46% cabernet sauvignon, 31% cabernet franc, 17% petit verdot, and 6% merlot. Very approachable now but better in 2022.
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South Australia 1 - HK$7,200.00
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Bordeaux 1 93 (VN (AG)) HK$2,405.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (93)

The 2014 d'Armailhac is bright, precise and finely sculpted. Expressive red stone fruit, flowers, mint, chalk and citrus abound in this vibrant, beautifully delineated Pauillac. Open-knit and expressive, with good depth and silky tannins, the wine exudes class. The fresh, invigorating style is classic 2014. This is a lovely showing. Tasted two times.
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Champagne 1 95 (WA) HK$10,900.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

The citrus-colored 2008 Amour de Deutz Brut Millésime is still yeasty on the nose, but very clear and elegant on the palate. This is a super pure and mineral, well-balanced Millésime with a long, intense and persistent finish. This is full of tension and finesse. A great wine.
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Champagne 1 98 (VN) HK$12,500.00
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Vinous (98)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is once again stunning. More than anything else, I am surprised by how well the 2008 drinks given all the tension and energy it holds. Then again, that is precisely what makes 2008 such a unique vintage namely that the best wines are so chiseled and yet not at all austere. Lemon peel, almond, mint, smoke and crushed rocks are all finely sculpted, but it is the wine’s textural feel, drive and persistence that elevate it into the realm of the sublime. The 2008 will be even better with time in the cellar, but it is absolutely phenomenal even today, in the early going. Three recent bottles have all been nothing short of magnificent.
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Champagne 1 98+ (VN) HK$16,300.00
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Vinous (98+)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is fabulous, but quite remarkably, it was even more open when I tasted it a year ago. Bright, focused and crystalline in its precision, the 2008 is going to need a number of years before it is at its best. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and white pepper give the 2008 its chiseled, bright profile. Several recent bottles have all been magnificent. What I admire most about the 2008 is the way it shows all the focus, translucence and energy that is such a signature of the year, and yet it is also remarkably deep and vertical. In other words, the 2008 is a Champagne that plays in three dimensions.
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Champagne 1 99 (JS) HK$16,085.00
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James Suckling (99)

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.
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Champagne 1 99 (JS) HK$14,700.00
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James Suckling (99)

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.
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Bordeaux 1 96 (VN (AG)) HK$4,500.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

The 2014 Domaine de Chevalier is a total knockout. Precise, brilliant and finely sculpted, the 2014 possesses superb intensity. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet red berries, along with finessed but persistent tannins, give the wine its regal personality. The 2014 needs a number of years to shed some baby fat and develop the full breadth of its aromatics, but it is a fabulous wine by any measure. The 2014 is 65 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 % Merlot and 5 % Petit Verdot that spent approximately 35 days on the skins. Olivier Bernard noted that the Merlots were brought in between October 10 and 17, which is quite late by the domaine's standards. Tasted two times.
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Bordeaux 1 96 (VN (AG)) HK$3,200.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

The 2014 Domaine de Chevalier is a total knockout. Precise, brilliant and finely sculpted, the 2014 possesses superb intensity. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet red berries, along with finessed but persistent tannins, give the wine its regal personality. The 2014 needs a number of years to shed some baby fat and develop the full breadth of its aromatics, but it is a fabulous wine by any measure. The 2014 is 65 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 % Merlot and 5 % Petit Verdot that spent approximately 35 days on the skins. Olivier Bernard noted that the Merlots were brought in between October 10 and 17, which is quite late by the domaine's standards. Tasted two times.
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Castilla y Leon 1 96 (WA) HK$4,500.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The 2014 Reserva is the winery's flagship wine, a wine produced to showcase the vineyards from the village La Aguilera next to Aranda de Duero in the province of Burgos. It's produced with the field blend dominated by Tempranillo from old vineyards in different parts of the village picked and fermented together. The full clusters were foot trodden and fermented in concrete vats with indigenous yeasts, and malolactic was very slow (it took eight months in 2014!) in oak vats. The élevage was extended to 31 months in French oak barrels of different sizes and ages. The wine has an herbal twist that provides freshness, and the oak feels very integrated. It has a magical perfume, in a great classical Ribera del Duero, with more body and structure; it has almost the same freshness as the 2013 but with more depth, compensated by complexity. It opens up nicely in the glass. It should age for a very long time in bottle, but it's already approachable. 9,850 bottles and 167 magnums were filled in May 2017.
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Central Valley 1 98 (JS) HK$5,200.00
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James Suckling (98)

Wonderful aromas of stones, mint and blackcurrants. Sweet tobacco. Tile and rust. So aromatic. This is the best Don Melchor I have ever tasted. Full body, very soft yet firm and silky. It has tension, intensity and balance. Drink or hold.
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Washington 1 - HK$3,878.00
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Discover the captivating elegance of the Duckhorn Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, an exquisite creation from the esteemed Duckhorn Vineyards in Napa Valley, California. This award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon finely illustrates the distinctive terroir of the Red Mountain AVA, renowned for producing powerful, structured red wines. Expertly handcrafted, this vintage showcases 85% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot and other complimentary varietals. Aged for 16 months in French oak barrels, the result is a brilliantly complex wine with rich layers of ripe berries, dark chocolate, and spice. On the palate, this full-bodied red wine reveals silky tannins leading to a luxurious, long-lasting finish. The Duckhorn Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 encompasses decades of fine winemaking tradition, making it a majestic choice for discerning wine enthusiasts in search of the quintessential Cabernet Sauvignon.

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Bordeaux 1 - HK$50,000.00
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Contains 1x75cl bottle of each:


Pétrus 2014 - 93 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

Lafite 2014 - 95 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

Mouton Rothschild 2014 - 97 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

Margaux 2014 - 95 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

Haut-Brion 2014 - 97 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

La Mission Haut-Brion 2014 - 96 pts | Neal Martin (Vinous)

Cheval Blanc 2014 - 95 pts | Lisa Perrotti-Brown (Wine Advocate)

D'Yquem 2014 - 96-98 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

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Mendoza 2 98 (WA) HK$2,270.00
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Wine Advocate (98)

I also tasted the 2014 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard, which might take some months to come into the market. It has some balsamic aromas, medicinal hints, traces of orange peel, saffron and a touch of sweet spices. It's built around very fine tannins and a notable core of acidity that acts as backbone, giving it length and lifting up the finish. This is quite in line with the 2010 vintage, with power and freshness in a rare combination of clout and elegance only the very best wines manage to show.
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Mendoza 1 98 (WA) HK$4,200.00
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Wine Advocate (98)

I also tasted the 2014 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard, which might take some months to come into the market. It has some balsamic aromas, medicinal hints, traces of orange peel, saffron and a touch of sweet spices. It's built around very fine tannins and a notable core of acidity that acts as backbone, giving it length and lifting up the finish. This is quite in line with the 2010 vintage, with power and freshness in a rare combination of clout and elegance only the very best wines manage to show.
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Piedmont 1 93 (WA) HK$1,600.00
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Wine Advocate (93)

The team at Elvio Cogno has produced a very impressive wine from the Barbaresco appellation. The 2014 Barbaresco Bordini is a thickly saturated and rich expression that flows forth with pretty aromatic intensity and a velvety texture. The wine is not immediately obvious. It opens slowly, keeping your attention all the while, with cherry and blackberry soon followed by spice, red rose and a bright touch of freshly chopped mint. This Barbaresco is centered and firm with a tight tannic structure and fresh acidity at the back.
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Rioja 1 95 (DC) HK$2,225.00
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Decanter (95)

Lots of oak here, but so well integrated with the exceptional fruit, it’s very moreish. On the palate there’s cream, leather, toast and coffee alongside succulent red fruits including raspberry and strawberry which carries the wine beautifully. It has ripe, generous tannins offset by fine acidity with a savoury tobacco pouch finish. It’s just starting to hit its stride but has a long way to go.
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Bordeaux 1 96 (VN (AG)) HK$8,205.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

The 2014 Figeac is shaping up to be a real jewel of a wine. Powerful and structured, with plenty of tannic spine, the 2014 won't start hitting its stride for at least a few years. Even today, though, it is impressive for its energy and overall intensity. Plum, smoke, spice, graphite and leather build into the huge, expressive finish. Figeac is one of the stars of the vintage. There is real density and gravitas here, not to mention considerable personality.
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Tuscany 1 95+ (VN) HK$3,200.00
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Vinous (95+)

A powerful, structured wine, the 2014 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo won't be ready to drink for a number of years, much less be at its best. In recent years, the Sorbo has been much more forward, but the 2014 is decidedly austere and ungiving. Graphite, smoke, black cherry, plum and licorice notes infuse the dark, mysterious finish.
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Tuscany 1 96 (VN) HK$4,250.00
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Vinous (96)

The 2014 Flaccianello della Pieve will probably drink well a bit earlier than the Vigna del Sorbo, as it has more midpalate creaminess, softer contours and a slightly more immediate personality. Even so, the translucent finesse of the vintage is very much in evidence. A rush of black cherry, plum, tobacco, licorice, chocolate and spice infuses the sweet, creamy finish. The 2014 spent 18 months in oak (less than was once the norm), 80% of it new.
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Piedmont 1 98 (JS) HK$9,900.00
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James Suckling (98)

The nose opens with a startling play between white truffles, bark and tea leaves and then crushed violets, lavender, blueberry peel, lemon rind and sour cherries. Full body, ultra-fine tannins, acidity as sharp as a razor and a long, ethereally mineral finish. The length but sheer clarity and accuracy in the delivery is remarkable. Perhaps hard to believe that this better than the 2013, but it is. Drink in 2022.
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