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Champagne 1 20++ (MJ) HK$8,900.00
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Matthew Jukes (20++)

Made from 100% Chardonnay and coming from Chouilly (40%), Cramant (33%), Mesnil-sur-Oger (22%) and Avize (7%), with one-third fermented and aged in old oak barrels and a dosage of 7 g/L, this is becoming a relatively familiar recipe for this elite House and yet there is nothing familiar about the flavour of this epic new release. Billecart-Salmon’s elite Blanc de Blancs is named after Louis, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon, who co-founded this illustrious Champagne house over two centuries ago with her husband, Nicolas François Billecart. This is the third release of Louis, and it is, again, completely different in shape and size to the beautiful 2006 (19/20) and crystalline 2007 (19.5/20). The oak was enhanced from 5% in the 2006 vintage to 50% in the 2007 and now it has been knocked back a touch, and this certainly serves to enhance the splendour of the sensational 2008 vintage fruit. I didn’t note that Avize fruit was used in the 2007, but I think it was in the 2006. Either way, I am confident that this tinkering around the edges has heightened the attack of this incredible wine. The delivery here is something to behold. It is clear from the nose that this wine is made with a horologist’s precision, and while everything starts quietly, there is an uncommon determination here that keeps on coming, leaving you panting with pleasure. On the palate, 2008 Louis perfectly balances extreme tension and white-knuckle drama with the most enchanting and serene jasmine, white tea, and linden blossom notes. It seems mesmerisingly composed from one side of the glass and hellbent on rearranging your taste buds via a national grid-sized electric shock from the other. I am not suggesting that this wine is too young to approach now because, at fourteen years of age, you can drink it, just be aware that this might be one of the wines with the most potential I have ever tasted from this incredible estate. As always with Billecart, the bubbles are minuscule, and the colour is as pale as can be, so there are no particular visual clues as to the greatness in the glass, but once the perfume takes hold and it pulls you to the glass, you are entirely within its control. I venture that Blanc de Blancs fans will go gaga when they taste this wine. It further improves on the magnificence of the two preceding vintages, and whether or not this is to do with the oak regime or the exact percentage of fruit drawn from each of the Grands Crus villages, I don’t know. However, I am certain that 2008 is a jaw-droppingly serious vintage and eclipses both 2006 and 2007 in terms of sheer class. Therefore, even at this early age, I am convinced that this is the birth of another perfect wine from Billecart-Salmon, and it is certainly the finest value 20/20 from this magnificent House, too.
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Champagne 1 19+ (MJ) HK$8,900.00
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Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.
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Champagne 1 99 (JD) HK$8,180.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2008 La Grande Année is another brilliant 2008 that delivers the goods. Straight-up awesome notes of stone fruits, white flowers, honeysuckle, and an incredible, liquid rock-like minerality all emerge from the glass, and it develops more nuance, spice, toasted bread, and an almost Alsatian Riesling-like petrol character over the course of the evening. It’s a full-bodied, rich, powerful Champagne, yet like the top 2008s, it has brilliant precision, purity, and focus. It’s unquestionably one of the finest versions of this cuvée ever produced, although it needs another 4-5 years of bottle age to hit prime time. It should keep for 3-4 decades. Bravo!
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Champagne 1 97 (WE) HK$7,800.00
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Wine Enthusiast (97)

Aged for 10 years on its lees before disgorgement, this impressive vintage Champagne is perfectly mature. The touches of maturity have moved the wine into richness, the fruit and acidity filling out and deepening. This is a great Champagne from a great vintage, ready to drink.
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South Australia 1 98 HK$2,900.00
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This is sensational with blackberries, blueberries and mineral. Extremely floral, too. Full-bodied but so seamless and refined with polished tannins that just melts into the wine. Goes on for minutes. A subtle and glorious wine that will be a new classic for Napa Valley. An emotional red that touches your soul. Energy. 46% cabernet sauvignon, 31% cabernet franc, 17% petit verdot, and 6% merlot. Very approachable now but better in 2022.
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South Australia 1 - HK$7,200.00
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Champagne 1 95 (WA) HK$10,900.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

The citrus-colored 2008 Amour de Deutz Brut Millésime is still yeasty on the nose, but very clear and elegant on the palate. This is a super pure and mineral, well-balanced Millésime with a long, intense and persistent finish. This is full of tension and finesse. A great wine.
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Champagne 1 98 (VN) HK$12,500.00
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Vinous (98)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is once again stunning. More than anything else, I am surprised by how well the 2008 drinks given all the tension and energy it holds. Then again, that is precisely what makes 2008 such a unique vintage namely that the best wines are so chiseled and yet not at all austere. Lemon peel, almond, mint, smoke and crushed rocks are all finely sculpted, but it is the wine’s textural feel, drive and persistence that elevate it into the realm of the sublime. The 2008 will be even better with time in the cellar, but it is absolutely phenomenal even today, in the early going. Three recent bottles have all been nothing short of magnificent.
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Champagne 1 98+ (VN) HK$16,300.00
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Vinous (98+)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is fabulous, but quite remarkably, it was even more open when I tasted it a year ago. Bright, focused and crystalline in its precision, the 2008 is going to need a number of years before it is at its best. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and white pepper give the 2008 its chiseled, bright profile. Several recent bottles have all been magnificent. What I admire most about the 2008 is the way it shows all the focus, translucence and energy that is such a signature of the year, and yet it is also remarkably deep and vertical. In other words, the 2008 is a Champagne that plays in three dimensions.
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Champagne 1 99 (JS) HK$16,085.00
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James Suckling (99)

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.
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Champagne 1 99 (JS) HK$14,700.00
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James Suckling (99)

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.
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Scotland 1 - HK$4,999.00
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Indulge your senses with the sublime Glen Garioch Highland Single Malt Fighting Fish 24YO 1990. Originating from the small market town of Oldmeldrum, Scotland, this single-malt scotch whisky is a product of centuries-old expertise by the Glen Garioch distillery - Scotland's most Easterly distillery. This 1990 vintage boasts an impressive age statement of 24 years; its maturation in oak casks lending it deep complexities and a rich, smooth character. Known for its taste profile that wonderfully balances sweet and spicy, it exudes notes of dark chocolate, winter spices, and dried fruit zest. The Glen Garioch Highland Single Malt Fighting Fish 24YO 1990 is a sophisticated sip, reflecting the tradition and craftsmanship of Scotland's whisky making heritage. A splendid addition to any discerning whisky aficionado's collection, and a bewitching gift for the devotees of single malt.

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Burgundy 1 - HK$8,000.00
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Rioja 1 97 (TA) HK$2,340.00
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Tim Atkin MW (97)

Tondonia's reds have been on an upward curve recently and are now at the same level as the bodega's world-class whites. This is a fine, elegant, savoury, low-alcohol blend of Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Mazuelo and Graciano, combining summer berry fruit, racy acidity, granular tannins and an earthy, balsamic undertone. Good now, but this will develop further in bottle.
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Champagne 4 100 (JD) HK$5,995.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The 2008 Cristal is a perfect wine, and Champagne simple does not get any better. This incredible wine offers a beautiful perfume of clean, crisp fruits, layers of complexity in its toasted spice and white flowers, and an utterly seamless, yet powerful style on the palate. This is a rich, decadent expression of Cristal yet it’s still crystalline and elegant, with no sensation of weight, and it just glides over the palate. Haut Couture at its finest and this majestic, profound, legendary Cristal can be drunk anytime over the coming 2-3 decades.
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Champagne 1 100 (JD) HK$17,000.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The 2008 Cristal is a perfect wine, and Champagne simple does not get any better. This incredible wine offers a beautiful perfume of clean, crisp fruits, layers of complexity in its toasted spice and white flowers, and an utterly seamless, yet powerful style on the palate. This is a rich, decadent expression of Cristal yet it’s still crystalline and elegant, with no sensation of weight, and it just glides over the palate. Haut Couture at its finest and this majestic, profound, legendary Cristal can be drunk anytime over the coming 2-3 decades.
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Bordeaux 1 89 (WS) HK$1,900.00
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Wine Spectator (89)

Tangy, with damson plum, kirsch and red licorice flavors that are well-defined and laced with bright iron and tobacco notes. There's nice focusing grip on the finish. Drink now through 2016. 14,000 cases made. -JM
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Champagne 1 97 (JS) HK$25,200.00 HK$19,800.00
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James Suckling (97)

Dried strawberries, orange peel, roses and other flowers, such as orange blossom. It’s full-bodied with layers of fruit and beautiful density to the palate. Exceptional finish. It’s the super fine texture that really pleases both your mind and your palate. Drink or hold.
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Bordeaux 1 100 (WA) HK$88,880.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

Tasted at the Montrose vertical in London, the 1990 Montrose is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc (almost identical to the 1989 Montrose) and picked between 14 September and 3 October. It has a formidable reputation and for years it overshadowed the 1989. That said, it is well known that there are incidences of brettanomyces that compromise some bottles and the one bottle in London showed just a tincture of this. It still merited a score of 97/100, though it only served to highlight the ethereal delineation of the 1989. Then literally a couple of days later. I was served blind a magnum of the 1990 Montrose in Cape Town, which had been purchased on release and stored in perfect conditions. Now, here was the real deal, unfettered by any infection, a regal Saint Estèphe. It shows approximately the same evolution as the 1989 in bottle, but unsurprisingly showed less bricking in magnum format. The bouquet is cut from a different cloth to the 1989 and attests to that warm vintage: hickory, clove, undergrowth and wild fennel, later garrigue-like scents and terracotta, the latter two more pronounced on the bottle format compared to the youthful magnum. The palate is full-bodied and powerful, yet the balance is perfect, a ballerina-like poise with the structure of the Forth Bridge. It is a multi-layered Montrose that offers enormous length, fresh and vibrant with the magnum demonstrating tangible mineralite and tension as it fans out on the crescendo of a finish—a fanfare for Saint Estèphe in all its glory. Improving all the time in the glass, this example of 1990 Montrose is a privilege to behold. One can speculate whether larger formats are a safer bet in terms of experiencing this behemoth without any brettanomyces. Perhaps. However, if you do come across the 1990 Montrose like this, you are in the presence of a king. Tasted January 2017.
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Champagne 1 95 (WA) HK$10,800.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

Great elegance and finesse already on the perfectly brilliant and aromatic nose shows Pol Roger's 2008 Blanc de Blancs Brut, displaying white and stewed apples with fine citrus flavors and discreet chalky aromas. The palate is dense and citric, as if limes and lemons are squeezed on a chalky rock. The purity, power and intensity is as remarkable, as is the finesse and persistence of the bubbles, the mousse on the palate and the long, persistent finish. Dosed with seven grams per liter, this extraordinary Blanc de Blanc Brut tastes drier than the Réserve Brut, but reveals a perfect ripeness of yellow fruits. The finish is lovely aromatic and intense, but also clear, fresh, firm and absolutely stimulating. This is a great Blanc de Blancs from the Grand Cru villages of Oiry, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Oger.
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Champagne 1 97 (IWSC) HK$4,010.00
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IWSC (97)

An expressive buttered brioche nose, gun smoke reduction, red fruit and toasted almond and pistachio notes. This very precise and elegant Champagne has a piercing acidity that underscores the long finish of lime zest, quince and apple.
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Burgundy 1 - HK$7,850.00
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Tokaj 1 97 (WA) HK$3,600.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

The latest release, the 2008 Tokaji Essencia from the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, was tasted over a period of three days. It is clearly cut from a different cloth to the 2007, disproving the idea that wines of such extraordinary sweetness conform to type. It is lighter on the nose than the 2007, with freshly cut tangerines, apricot and orange zest. There is a brightness here, a sense of energy. The palate is founded upon energy and tension, a silver thread of acidity that cuts through the layer upon layer of orange zest, Japanese yuzu, tangerine and honey. This is an elegant and you might argue, more reserved Essencia compared to the 2007. The alcohol is slightly higher at a whopping 4%, a relatively easier Essencia to consume compared to the unctuous previous vintage. While it might not achieve the concentration of the 2007, the 2008 Essencia remains an otherworldly feat of nature. I actually shared the remaining bottle with winemakers from Argentina and Portugal in Hong Kong and they became wide-eyed with amazement. That's the magic of Essencia. It might constitute blasphemy, but the freshness means you can enjoy this now, or as my drinking window suggests, wait another 100 years, as temporally fantastical as that sounds.
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Tuscany 2 93 (WA) HK$4,800.00
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Wine Advocate (93)

This is a beautiful wine that has passed the test of time with flying colors. The 1990 Sassicaia is a thrilling expression that opens to succulent darkness and deep layers of ripe fruit opulence. Dried blackberry, plum and black currant keep the fruit profile high. Background notes of cumin, exotic spice and cured tobacco add power and weight. Lighter tones of balsam herb and crushed mineral are important components of the wine's elegance. The mouthfeel is structured and richly textured, but balanced by its acidity. Back when Robert Parker first reviewed this wine in 1994, he predicted that it would last through the first decade of the 21st century. Given how well the wine is showing now, it's safe to extend that drinking window even further.
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Tuscany 1 97 (WI) HK$15,000.00
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The Wine Independent (97)

For Tenuta San Guido, "2008 was a beautiful year. Hot but not dry and not too hot," comments Carlo Paoli, general manager and head of winemaking. This 2008 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia is still tight and youthful, and it is just starting to develop a garnet rim. The aromas were slow to reveal themselves but after 30 minutes, some notes of juniper, "macchia mediterranea", mint, and sweet tobacco appear. The texture is sublimely soft, round, and velvety - not heavy, but melting - with lots of juicy, vibrant acidity. With this vintage, the tannins continue in their refinement.
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Aconcagua 1 92 (VN) HK$4,950.00
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Vinous (92)

(57% cabernet sauvignon, 20% carmenere, 10% merlot, 8% petit verdot and 5% cabernet franc) Ruby-red. Musky redcurrant, cherry, spicecake and rose oil on the seductively perfumed nose. Silky, suave and fine-grained, in a distinctly elegant style. Red fruit and spice notes are complemented by a touch of bitter chocolate. The racy, dry, palate-staining finish shows full ripeness yet the wine comes off weightless. I'd bet on it rewarding at least another six or seven years of cellaring.
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Champagne 1 100 (JS) HK$9,900.00
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James Suckling (100)

The perfect blanc de blancs. Full-bodied with a lovely framework of acidity and dry fruit, such as apples, pears and peaches. Opulent. Dense and muscular. Yet, it’s balanced and harmonious. Line of acidity at the end. Totally in tune. Superb. Deep and complete. Has everything. One for the cellar. It is the greatest Comte ever. It has everything. A perfect upgrade from two years ago. Drink or hold.
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Champagne 1 97 (WI) HK$9,950.00
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The Wine Independent (97)

The 2008 Comtes de Champagne Rose Brut is composed of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, with 12% Pinot Noir blended in as a still red wine. It comes entirely from estate-grown, Grand Cru vineyards and is aged 12 years prior to release with 9 g/L dosage. Sporting a very pale salmon pink color, it tumbles out of the glass with captivatingly floral notes of roses and jasmine, giving way to a core of wild strawberries, raspberry leaves, red apples, and pears, with faint wafts of crushed rocks and lavender. The palate is delicately played with racy acidity and very fine bubbles guiding the laser-precise red berry and apple-inspired flavors to a long, mineral-laced finish. For those that love the restraint and finesse with red berry sparkles, this is for you!
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