Red Burgundy
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Red Burgundy
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Wine Advocate (90-92)
The 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvee des Allouettes, which comes from within the Mont Luisants vineyard, has a quite precocious bouquet with blackcurrant, boysenberry and light Hoi Sin scents that unfold nicely in the glass. The palate is solid and dense with firm, quite grippy tannins. There is plenty of energy and tension here with touches of spice and soy lining the ebullient finish. Excellent.HK$5,540.00 -
Burghound (91-93)
This is more complex still if only just with a slightly less elegant array of red and blue fruit scents that include pomegranate, plum, blue berry, earth and a hint of exotic tea. The sleekly muscular middle weight flavors exude a fine bead of minerality on the delicious, intense, well-detailed and powerful finish that delivers excellent persistence. This could accurately be described as a mini Clos de la Roche and should amply repay extended cellaring, indeed it will need at least 6 to 8 years first.HK$1,300.00 -
Burghound (91-93)
This is more complex still if only just with a slightly less elegant array of red and blue fruit scents that include pomegranate, plum, blue berry, earth and a hint of exotic tea. The sleekly muscular middle weight flavors exude a fine bead of minerality on the delicious, intense, well-detailed and powerful finish that delivers excellent persistence. This could accurately be described as a mini Clos de la Roche and should amply repay extended cellaring, indeed it will need at least 6 to 8 years first.HK$9,645.00 -
Wine Advocate (90-92)
The 2014 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Allouettes has an introspective bouquet. There is something steely about this: cold metal, copper piping underneath the transparent red berry fruit. The palate is quite harmonious on the entry. There is a taut line of acidity here, clean and crisp, very linear with touches of bitter cherry towards the finish. There is something moody about this Morey-Saint-Denis, which may well be its way of saying that it needs to be cellared for 3-5 years.HK$5,060.00 -
Wine Advocate (92)
The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes is deeper and more serious than the Cuvée des Grives, wafting from the glass with a lavish bouquet of ripe plum, cherry, cinnamon, licorice, rich soil and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, sappy and powerful, with a deep core of sweet fruit that conceals an ample chassis of fine-grained, chalky tannin.HK$9,140.00 -
Wine Advocate (93)
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes offers up lovely aromas of red plums, rose petals and candied peel that mingle with incipient savory nuances of grilled squab and forest floor. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with excellent concentration, fine-grained and chalky tannins, and above all a bright, vibrant quality that lends this Morey fabulous definition. It will need some time, as it's much more tight-knit than the Morey village.HK$6,670.00 -
Wine Advocate (92+)
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes is also performing well from bottle, unfurling to reveal aromas of raspberries, cherries and sweet berries mingled with hints of orange rind, dark chocolate and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's fleshier and more concentrated than its communal sibling. Built around powdery tannins and succulent acids, it concludes with a longer, more mineral finish.HK$5,835.00 -
HK$4,645.00 -
Wine Advocate (91-93+)
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes opens in the glass with notes of plums, cherries, raw cocoa, cinnamon and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly gourmand, with lively acids and a precise, mineral finish. As usual, this hails entirely from the Clos de Monts Luisants, but the domaine opts not to mention the lieu-dit on the label to avoid confusion with their emblematic white wine from the same vineyard.HK$5,940.00 -
(6x75cl) 2020HK$8,190.00 -
Vinous (92-94)
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée Allouettes was cropped at just 8hL/ha and had only finished its malo before my visit. Nevertheless, this has a harmonious and engaging bouquet, very pure with black cherries, raspberry confit and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, cohesive and gently gripping in the mouth. Maybe another vintage would have bestowed more tension and precision on the finish? Yet it remains an engaging and classy Morey.HK$3,220.00 -
(6x75cl) 2022Burghound (92)
(from the 1er portion of Monts Luisants; an alouette is a lark). Here the expressive nose is comprised by notes of the perfumed essence of various red and dark berries along with floral and anise whiffs. The mouthfeel of the even finer medium weight flavors is enhanced by the presence of evident minerality on the notably more complex and persistent finish that is underpinned by noticeably firmer tannins as well. Excellent.HK$6,645.00 -
Wine Advocate (90)
The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Grives is very pretty this vintage, offering up lovely aromas of sweet red cherry, strawberry and peony. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, fine-grained and silky textured, with an expansive attack and notable structural amplitude. This is classic Ponsot.HK$4,275.00 -
Vinous (90-92)
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village Cuvée des Grives comes from just below the woods above the village. It has a clean, precise bouquet of pastille-like blackberry and bilberry fruit, tightly wound at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite focused and very well balanced. This is an unassuming but effective Morey Village with a wonderful saline finish. Superb.HK$3,400.00 -
Vinous (89-91)
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Grives comes from shallow soils, the vines here are 16 years old. This possesses much more complexity and terroir expression on the nose than the Gevrey, sous-bois and truffle permeate the red fruit, with good vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh and smooth with lightly spiced dark cherry and orange zest notes on the finish. Lovely.HK$2,695.00 -
Burghound (90)
(from vines replanted in 2005 in the villages portion of Monts Luisants). A ripe but fresh and elegant nose combines notes of black raspberry, cassis, anise and violet. The lilting and delicious medium-bodied flavors possess excellent delineation and a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the youthfully austere, sneaky long and well-balanced finale. Lovely and very Monts Luisants in character.HK$4,465.00 -
Vinous (91-94)
Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of raspberry, minerals and dried flowers complicated by torrefaction notes of mocha and coffee. Round on entry, then sappy in the middle, showing terrific crushed raspberry intensity along with saline, mocha, spice and earth notes. This very taut, energetic wine is even more backward than the Amoureuses. Really saturates the palate on the back end, finishing with outstanding smoky persistence.HK$12,180.00 -
(12x75cl) 2014Wine Advocate (91-93)
The 2014 Chambolle Musigny les Charmes 1er Cru has one of the most exotic bouquets from La Pousse d'Or: macerated red cherries, orange peel and dried fig, nicely defined and just a little heady! The palate is succulent on the entry with supple, fine tannin. Here, there is a mixture of red and black fruit, whereas other cuvées lean towards the latter. It feels more harmonious in the mouth, perhaps more approachable with a persuasive, silky texture on the finish. This is very well crafted.HK$14,920.00 -
Vinous (91-93)
The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet, a little earthier than Pousse d’Or’s other Chambolle Premier Crus, slightly ferrous with orange rind and a slight steely scent. The palate is sweet on the entry with tart black cherry fruit, quite saline with fine mineralité towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent.HK$13,645.00 -
HK$2,850.00 -
(6x75cl) 2020HK$7,680.00 -
Vinous (87-90)
Bright ruby-red. Wild, musky aromas of dark berries and spices come across as a bit dull. Juicy and moderately deep but rather closed today, showing more saline minerality than primary fruit. This very backward wine finishes with slightly tough tannins and a lingering salty character.HK$11,585.00 -
Vinous (90-92)
The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Groseilles 1er Cru shakes off a touch of reduction to reveal and attractive, floral bouquet with scents of mandarin that infuse the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded opening, quite fleshy underneath that carapace of tannin, grippy with a slightly tarry finish. Broody at the moment, it deserves four or five years in bottle, by then it should drink well.HK$14,975.00 -
HK$12,440.00 -
Vinous (84-86)
The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Villages, matures in 20% new oak, has a light, slightly rustic, ferrous bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a little pinched at the moment with an angular finish.HK$4,150.00 -
HK$5,340.00 -
Vinous (94)
Dark red with ruby highlights. Very ripe but discreet aromas of dark cherry liqueur, wild berries and licorice, plus a note of sweet spices (cumin?). Dense, bright and savory; silky and soil-driven, with saline minerality complicating the berry and spice flavors. Finishes very long and perfumed, with excellent energy for the year. This is one address where I preferred the 2011s to the 2012s.HK$10,365.00 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, from 0.32 hectares of vines planted in 1950 and 1951, has a much more generous bouquet compared to the Chambolle-Amoureuses, tensile red cherry and raspberry coulis scents, wet limestone and just a hint of cassis in the background. It is very Clos de la Roche, to put it prosaically. The palate is very harmonious, silky smooth and elegant. There is fine weight in the mouth, though this is more about tension and elegance, with a gorgeous, sensual, satin-like touch to the finish. This could become one of the best wines from this vineyard.HK$11,890.00 -
(6x150cl) 2015Vinous (93-95)
(two of the four barrels were new; the production here was just 25 hectoliters per hectare, according to Landanger): Bright ruby. Sexy perfume of black raspberry, minerals, brown spices, licorice pastille and underbrush. Plush, sweet and smooth, offering superb concentration, energy and balance. Utterly seamless wine with terrific inner-mouth floral lift. The wine's strong fruit blows past the firm, late-arriving tannins on the juicy, gripping, very long finish.HK$23,360.00 -
(6x75cl) 2017Vinous (91-93)
The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru offers more red fruit than the Bonnes-Mares, although at the moment this does not quite deliver the same nuance and comeliness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, quite linear and strict (especially for this vineyard), but with a welcome pinch of white pepper and sage towards the persistent finish. Afford it several years in bottle.HK$14,940.00
Burgundy is Pinot Noir’s spiritual home, and nowhere in the world better illustrates terroir than here. Two vineyards side by side result in wines with subtle yet intricate differences in structure and aromatic profile – and often not so subtle differences in price.
