Red Burgundy
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Red Burgundy
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Jancis Robinson (17.5)
Perfumed, gentle texture, lots to chew on at the end but properly complex and serious. Pretty intense and chiselled. Relatively rich. Gives the impression of great care taken in vineyard and cellar. Long with a peacock's tail on the end. Some liquorice on the end too – most unusual in 2015 burgundy. Very well done.HK$4,865.00 -
Jancis Robinson (17)
Cask sample. Polished and velvety without the energy of the Auxey Premier Cru. Sort of splits the difference between its two stablemates but I’m not sure wholly satisfactorily for the price.HK$890.00 -
Jancis Robinson (17)
Cask sample. Polished and velvety without the energy of the Auxey Premier Cru. Sort of splits the difference between its two stablemates but I’m not sure wholly satisfactorily for the price.HK$4,350.00 -
Vinous (92-94)
The 2020 Volnay Les Frémiets 1er Cru is more earthier on the nose than the Village Cru and demonstrates more red fruit, touches of tobacco and Early Grey emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent red berry fruit, quite saline with a dash of white pepper towards the finish. If you don’t manage to grab the Clos des Epeneaux this year, try to get your mitts in this.HK$1,215.00 -
Vinous (91-93)
The 2021 Volnay Les Frémiets 1er Cru has exquisite definition on the nose: a mélange of red and black fruit, allspice and light iris flower scents. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, more red fruit developing laced with clove and a touch of cooked meats, quite complex towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Classy and certainly with the substance to age.HK$4,300.00 -
(1x75cl) 2022Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-93)
Six barrels, two of them new. A medium to bright purple. The nose is invigorating with as little as 10% whole bunches, enough to add a floral note. This is lively on the palate, a Fremiets which has remembered it is in Volnay, not Pommard, delightfully stylish at the finish. Drink from 2032-2037. Tasted: October 2023.HK$1,090.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-93)
Six barrels, two of them new. A medium to bright purple. The nose is invigorating with as little as 10% whole bunches, enough to add a floral note. This is lively on the palate, a Fremiets which has remembered it is in Volnay, not Pommard, delightfully stylish at the finish. Drink from 2032-2037. Tasted: October 2023.HK$4,800.00 -
(6x75cl) 2023Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-91)
A fresh vivid ruby purple. Picking started here, two days before the Clos yet with evident ripeness. The palate boasts plums and squishy ripe cherries, not too dry behind, but there is an element of 2020 here. Still fine, a touch lower in acidity but adequate, 13.6%. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.HK$4,640.00 -
HK$5,235.00 -
Burghound (88-91)
In contrast to the first two wines, here the nose is sufficiently reduced to render an evaluation difficult. By contrast there is good freshness and verve to the more precisely detailed middle weight flavors where the supporting tannins are notably finer even though the finish is also ever-so-slightly rustic. A quality Volnay villages.HK$2,840.00 -
(6x75cl) 2020Vinous (89-91)
The 2020 Volnay Village has a refined, quite intense cassis and black cherry nose, quite high toned but managing to retain its delineation. The palate is quite intense but pure with blood orange infused red fruit, gentle grip towards the slightly brittle finish, quite spicy on the aftertaste. Give this 3-5 years in bottle.HK$2,595.00 -
(1x75cl) 2022Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)
Mid crimson to purple, with some reduction on the nose. A concentrated dark raspberry fruit, still with this reductive element. If and when that clears there is a fine long finish to look forward to instead. Impressive fruit in the end, so scored on the asu,mption that the reduction will clear. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: October 2023.HK$770.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)
Mid crimson to purple, with some reduction on the nose. A concentrated dark raspberry fruit, still with this reductive element. If and when that clears there is a fine long finish to look forward to instead. Impressive fruit in the end, so scored on the asu,mption that the reduction will clear. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: October 2023.HK$2,500.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-91)
From Grands Champs and Les Famines. Dark centre to the colour and some firm structure in this Volnay. Full plum fruit, with good energy and a sense of calm completeness to finish. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2024.HK$845.00 -
(6x75cl) 2023Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-91)
From Grands Champs and Les Famines. Dark centre to the colour and some firm structure in this Volnay. Full plum fruit, with good energy and a sense of calm completeness to finish. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2024.HK$2,175.00 -
(2x75cl) 1996Vinous (93+)
Good fresh dark red. Flamboyant nose combines blueberry, blackberry, licorice and Cuban tobacco; distinctly blacker aromas than the '97. Great sweetness and penetration on the palate; flavors are given thrust and grip by a strong spine of acids and tannins. Quintessential grand cru intensity without excess weight. Extremely long, noble finish. Fascinating Bonnes-Mares, and likely to be very long-lived.HK$13,130.00 -
Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (95)
Bright ruby-red. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, minerals, violet and blood orange. Silky-sweet, dense and thick, with sexy oak tones and compelling sugar/acid snap. Here the tannins are thoroughly buffered by the wine's strong material, with powerful minerality contributing to the impression of structure. In the past few vintages, Millet has taken the estate's Bonnes-Mares to another level.HK$60,140.00 -
(3x75cl) 2002Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (95)
Bright ruby-red. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, minerals, violet and blood orange. Silky-sweet, dense and thick, with sexy oak tones and compelling sugar/acid snap. Here the tannins are thoroughly buffered by the wine's strong material, with powerful minerality contributing to the impression of structure. In the past few vintages, Millet has taken the estate's Bonnes-Mares to another level.HK$17,630.00 -
(3x75cl) 2003Wine Advocate (94)
Boasting a nose of great ripeness and freshness, the 2003 Bonnes Mares offers aromas of waxy black fruits and spices. Medium to full-bodied, it resembles liquid silk in both its attack and mid-palate. Luxurious and sensual, this highly expressive wine coats the palate with black cherries and dark raspberries whose effects linger in its tannin-packed, slightly dry finish. Projected maturity: 2009-2020.HK$15,980.00 -
(6x75cl) 2004Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (93)
Good medium red. Aromas of blueberry, blackberry, currant, mocha, minerals and graphite. Sweet, solid and densely packed, showing less lift but more power than the Amoureuses. Conveys a rather medicinal, brooding quality as well as firm tannic grip. Still a rather elegantly styled wine, but a bit less minerally than the Amoureuses. Millet notes that the de Vogue holding is in the southeast corner of this grand cru, which he describes as "an elegant location, but not the best."HK$26,450.00 -
Jancis Robinson (19)
Dark crimson. Brilliant energy and drive. Sharp and linear – I'm sure winemaker François Millet has a sonnet to describe the character of this wine – and bursting with fruit. Just starting to drink well. Extremely rich and sweet with some black cherry aspects to it. Very winning. Enjoyed at a dinner in the Adelaide Hills. Perhaps its journey across the equator had brought it on?HK$5,750.00 -
(1x75cl) 2006Wine Advocate (94)
Mint, concentrated red and black fruits, smoked meat, and black pepper pungently scent the De Vogue 2006 Bonnes Mares. These migrate with almost implosive intensity to a palate lushly textured though finely tannic and almost implacably dense yet shot through with electric energy. Here are both the caressing and invigorating aspects at once present in so many of the best 2006s, each accentuated. Like so many young wines of its appellation, this is relatively backward and slightly unruly, but the longer the wine takes on air the more both its senses of richness and energy are enhanced. I would give this at least 3-4 years in bottle and anticipate at least 10-12 years of riveting performance.HK$7,205.00 -
Wine Advocate (94)
De Vogue’s 2007 Bonnes Mares calls to mind sweet-tart black raspberry candies and herbal lozenges, along with notes of brown spices and smoky black tea. Rich, sedate, and provocatively sweet and perfumed, this manages simultaneously to preserve a saline savor and suggestion of lobster shell reduction that precludes anyone calling it a “fruit bomb.” The smoky and – for lack of a better covering term – “mineral” elements accompany this Bonnes Mares’ soothing finish all the way to its distant end. No doubt there is at least a decade’s worth of seduction and intrigue on hand, but here too, I would not hesitate to relish them significantly sooner.HK$27,920.00 -
Wine Advocate (95)
The 2008 Bonnes Mares is totally classy and elegant. It shows gorgeous inner liqueur-like sweetness, expressive aromatics and a rich, textured finish that is a marvel to behold. The sheer depth, density and incisiveness of the fruit is fabulous. Expressive floral notes round out the finish. This is very much an understated Bonnes Mares from de Vogue. Anticipated maturity: 2023-2048.HK$27,580.00 -
(1x150cl) 2010Vinous (95+)
Bright, deep red. Crushed blueberry, pomegranate, kirsch and licorice on the very fresh, perfumed nose, lifted by notes of lilac and peony. Suave and seamless on the palate, but with superb energy and lift to the flavors of cherry, purple fruits and spicy oak. Wonderfully juicy, sappy wine with a strong finishing note of blackberry, noble tannins and outstanding rising length. A brilliant Bonnes-Mares.HK$12,805.00 -
Vinous (95+)
Bright, deep red. Crushed blueberry, pomegranate, kirsch and licorice on the very fresh, perfumed nose, lifted by notes of lilac and peony. Suave and seamless on the palate, but with superb energy and lift to the flavors of cherry, purple fruits and spicy oak. Wonderfully juicy, sappy wine with a strong finishing note of blackberry, noble tannins and outstanding rising length. A brilliant Bonnes-Mares.HK$5,195.00 -
(6x75cl) 2012Tim Atkin MW (96)
The de Vogüé Bonnes Mares is sourced solely from red soils and has more plumpness than wines that are drawn from chalkier sites. It's dark fruit and powerful, with the accent on concentration and stuffing rather than minerality. Sweet plum and balckcberry fruit, focused tannins and a wild, unkempt note on the finish.HK$21,960.00 -
(3x75cl) 2013Jancis Robinson (18.5)
From the south-east corner so all terres rouges. Pungent and concentrated. Lots of ‘minerality’. Masses of bumptious, almost gamey, fruit. Not massive in terms of alcohol but massive in terms of flavour. Great freshness – almost raw red-fruit character. Very fine tannins. Great texture. Real energy.HK$11,490.00 -
Wine Advocate (95)
The 2015 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is really blossoming now that the wine is safely in bottle. It has a gorgeous, floral bouquet with scents of blueberry, blackberry and briary, wonderful mineral expression here with a palpable sense of energy and precision. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, what you might call a cool Bonnes Mares, sleek and sensual with very fine tension towards the red cherry and kirsch tinged finish. What a gorgeous Bonnes-Mares, though I would be inclined to afford it several years in bottle. Tasted November 2016.HK$28,730.00 -
(1x75cl) 2015Jancis Robinson (19)
Very deep purplish crimson. Warm, ripe, expressive nose. Juicy and lively with great pace. Such a winner! More obvious fruit than Amoureuses. Super-juicy. Winning.HK$5,370.00
Burgundy is Pinot Noir’s spiritual home, and nowhere in the world better illustrates terroir than here. Two vineyards side by side result in wines with subtle yet intricate differences in structure and aromatic profile – and often not so subtle differences in price.
