Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (87-88)

(from 45-year-old vines in Concoeur, in the hills behind Vosne-Romanée; there was no frost here in 2016 but vines in a small valley just 500 meters away were decimated, according to Tardy; 12.1% natural alcohol chaptalized to 12.8%): Healthy dark red. Ripe, sappy aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and licorice. A medium-bodied wine with sweet berry and cherry fruit flavors framed by a firm edge of acidity and complicated by a leathery nuance. Lovely vinosity here, with an acidulated red fruit character and fine, dusty tannins that suggest this wine will evolve slowly. Tardy told me that Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet and Domaine Arlaud own vines in the same windy, rocky, essentially flat site.

Vinous (89)

Good bright red with ruby tones. Rather wild aromas of black raspberry, smoke and leather. Supple, smooth and approachable; offers good volume for Chambolle and comes across as edge-free. A late dusting of tannins is nicely supported by mid-palate material. Not especially nuanced but this wine, too, will offer early drinkability.

Vinous - Neal Martin (92)

The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets has blackberry and raspberry fruit, just a touch of reduction but good intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins but there is plenty of fruit, quite spicy in the second half with a punchy, flavour-packed yet tight finish. Excellent.

Vinous - Neal Martin (91)

The 2021 Echézeaux Les Treux Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru feels too reduced in the glass and even when poured from one to another, the fruit is suppressed by the sulfur. Redcurrant and strawberry scents eventually eke out after about 20 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins. It feels a little oaky and lacks a bit of "flow," though there is a pleasant sorbet-fresh finish. Not bad, though not the best Grand Cru you will find this vintage. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)

100% new wood. Dense dark purple, the nose currently dominated by the oak, but it will integrate well without any sign of drying the ample fruit. We cannot see the detail yet but the 2022 Echezeaux finishes gracefully, with finesse. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: October 2023.

Vinous - Neal Martin (92-94)

As usual, the 2023 Echézeaux Les Treux Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is raised entirely in new oak. This is well defined with a sense of transparency that I don't think I have seen in Tardy's wines. It is quite perfumed and floral. The palate is medium-bodied with a plush entry and satin-like texture with just a touch of spice. There is a vein of candied orange peel toward the finish that lingers in the mouth. It's very fine, although perhaps this year I might just go for the Aux Argillats.

Vinous (92)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Perrières Vieilles Vignes has one of the more outgoing bouquets that I tasted from Tardy, featuring forward red cherry, raspberry coulis and pressed rose petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, cohesive and focused, and yet it might be missing the complexity shown by the 2018 on the finish, where it decides to play it safe. Still, this is a very attractive Gevrey-Chambertin.

Vinous (92)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Perrières Vieilles Vignes has a nicely detailed and terroir expressive bouquet, brambly red fruit mixed with sous-bois and light truffle aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, silky smooth in texture with a precise and quite pure finish. One of my picks from Tardy this year.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Perrières Vieilles Vignes has quite a dense bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, an attractive floral element that becomes more pronounced with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, lightly spiced with a touch of candied orange peel towards the finish. Lovely silky texture here. Stylish and quite persistent.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Perrières Vieilles Vignes, which suffered minor hail damage (10%), is one of Tardy's more fruit intense crus with black cherries and white-tipped strawberry aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, taut and quite citrus-fresh and tensile on the finish with admirable length. This is a delightful Gevrey from Guillaume Tardy, contender for his best 2021.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-91)

Mid crimson in colour with a fine savoury strawberry fruit, very Gevrey. A solid quite rich mouthful of fruit, with a softer strawberry fruit at the finish, and some tannins which do not intrude to far. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Nov 2024.

Vinous (91)

Medium red. Reticent scents of redcurrant and leather come across as a bit more rustic than the Champerrier. Offers good texture and breadth if a bit less floral lift in the middle palate than the Champerrier. But some saline minerality gives the wine adequate energy. Finishes with dusty tannins. Probably best for drinking over the next ten years.

Vinous (93)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Argillats 1er Cru has a lovely, vivacious and generous bouquet of dark cherries, violet, hints of meat juices and brown spices. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and quite strict and linear at the moment, but I appreciate the depth and persistence on the aftertaste. One that is saving itself for later.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Argillats 1er Cru has quite a backward yet precise nose, dark cherries, iodine and violet scents. Good definition but surly at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins, taut and fresh, quite saline on the finish but the compactness of this cuvée suggests that it will need 4-5 years in bottle.

Vinous - Neal Martin (90)

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Argillats 1er Cru has a little more horsepower behind it on the nose with dark berry fruit, hints of bay leaf and black tea. Fine delineation, although there is a tad more oak to be assimilated. Maybe a hint of Brettanomyces? The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity that cuts through the mainly black fruit. Good tension with blood orange notes emerging towards the finish, which shows fine depth, though maybe just missing a little soul. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Vinous - Neal Martin (92-94)

The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Argillats 1er Cru has a clean and transparent bouquet with lifted red berry fruit notes laced with sous-bois scents. It's quite Vosne-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied, poised and focused with a light crunchiness, fine mineralité and another harmonious finish. This is excellent.

Vinous (92-94)

Matured in around 40% new oak, the 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Au Bas de Combe Vieilles Vignes has a very controlled, focused bouquet of raspberry and bilberry fruit, beautifully defined and very terroir-expressive. The palate is well balanced and stylistically equidistant between Nuits Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée, betraying its geographical location. The 85-year-old vines impart great concentration but also immense quality, more Premier Cru than Village Cru. Superb.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (90-93)

Vivacious mid ruby, with a greater density of fruit on the nose, mainly raspberry, at just the right degree of ripeness. As always, this is the most complete of the Tardy village wines with both muscle and finesse, and the longest finish. The upper part seems to Guillaume to reflect the soil of Aux Boudots above, while the lower part has more clay. Drink from 2029-2035. Tasted Nov 2024.

Vinous (87-89)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Vigneux is well-defined and focused on the nose: dark cherry and plummy fruit, hints of pressed violets emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with strict tannins, fine acidity, quite firm and uncompromising on the finish where I seek a touch more elegance and tension.

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