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Champagne

Champagne, the epitome of elegance and celebration, is widely regarded as the pinnacle of sparkling wines. As one of the most prestigious wine regions in the world, Champagne has captured the hearts of wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs with its exceptional quality, refined craftsmanship, and iconic vineyards.


Historically, Champagne has been dominated by some world-acclaimed Champagne House, which source grapes and harvest from Champagne growers. These famous Grandes Marques include Louis Roederer (Cristal), Dom PérignonKrug, Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Bollinger, all of them are revered for their notable names that display unrivalled winemaking prestige and pedigree.


In the recent decade, the emerging Grower Champagne trend in Champagne is shaking up the industry by challenging the dominance of the big Champagne houses. These small-scale producers, also known as "Récoltant-Manipulant" or RM, grow their own grapes and produce their own Champagne, showcasing the unique terroir and character of their vineyards. Jacques SelosseUlysse Collin, and Champagne Vilmart & Cie are among the most prominent names in this trend, producing some truly artisanal and terroir-driven Champagnes.


Champagne is primarily made from three main grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. These grapes are carefully selected and blended to create a harmonious and complex flavour profile. Chardonnay contributes elegance, freshness, and finesse, while Pinot Noir adds structure, depth, and fruitiness. Pinot Meunier brings a touch of roundness and vibrancy to the blend.


The region of Champagne is divided into several distinct sub-regions, including Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs, and Vallée de la Marne. Each sub-region has its unique terroir, characterized by variations in soil composition and microclimates, which influence the style and character of the wines produced.


Champagne offers various styles, from non-vintage blends to vintage cuvées and prestigious prestige cuvées. While Non-vintage Champagnes typically epitomise the house style, the vintage Champagnes are made from grapes harvested in one particular year (top vintages such as 1996, 2002, 2008 etc), in which these wines showcase the unique characteristics of the specific vintage.


The prestige cuvées, often the flagship wines of the renowned Champagne houses, are the pinnacle of excellence. These exceptional Champagnes are created using the finest grapes, the most meticulous winemaking techniques and often benefit from extended ageing to achieve unparalleled complexity and finesse.


Champagne is synonymous with celebration, elegance, and luxury. Its effervescent charm and timeless appeal have made it the drink of choice for countless special occasions and memorable moments. With its rich history, iconic vineyards, and unrivalled quality, Champagne continues to captivate wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.



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Champagne

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Traditional Champagne cellar in France. This is gyropalette, a rack used for riddling the Champagne during second fermentation.

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Champagne 1 94 (VN) HK$9,180.00
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Vinous (94)

The 2005 Clos des Goisses is easily one of the wines of what turned out to be a complicated vintage. Just beginning to show the early signs of aromatic complexity, the 2005 graces the palate with the essence of candied lemon, almonds, chamomile, apricot and wild herbs. The 2005 is not the most complex or pedigreed Goisses, but it drinks beautifully today and should continue to deliver pleasure for another 15-20 years, perhaps more.
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Champagne 1 96 (VN) HK$7,630.00
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Vinous (96)

The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time. The question is: How much?
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Champagne 1 96 (VN) HK$9,800.00
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Vinous (96)

The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time. The question is: How much?
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Champagne 1 95 (BH) HK$8,970.00
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Burghound (95)

This is a wine that I have followed since its release and like a number of 2007s, it took its sweet time to add depth and flesh out as it was exceptionally tightly wound, austere and seemingly just effervescence and citrus-tinged wine. Time however has worked its magic and this is much, indeed much, much more interesting than it was with elegant, airy and pure aromas of green apple, soft yeast, plenty of citrus and a Chablis-like shellfish and iodine hint. The racy and still almost painfully intense middle weight flavors are crisp, bone-dry and palate etching as the mousse is firm but fine, all wrapped in a mildly austere and wonderfully long finish. This exceptionally stylish effort could be enjoyed now or held for another 3 to 5 years first. Excellent and a classic vintage for Clos des Goisses. I would add that the 2007 doesn’t quite match the 1996 for sheer quality but it’s every bit as good as the 1998 and 2000 version.
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Champagne 1 98 (VN) HK$13,655.00
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Vinous (98)

The 2008 Clos des Goisses is just as impressive today as it has always been. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2008 exists in three dimensions, with remarkable textural depth and vertical intensity to burn. Clos des Goisses is notoriously slow to develop. Readers who can be patient will be treated to a spectacular Champagne. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, which makes the 2008 a rare Clos des Goisses that favors Chardonnay. About 75% of the lots were fermented in oak. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter.
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Champagne 1 98 (VN) HK$1,975.00
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Vinous (98)

The 2008 Clos des Goisses is just as impressive today as it has always been. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2008 exists in three dimensions, with remarkable textural depth and vertical intensity to burn. Clos des Goisses is notoriously slow to develop. Readers who can be patient will be treated to a spectacular Champagne. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, which makes the 2008 a rare Clos des Goisses that favors Chardonnay. About 75% of the lots were fermented in oak. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter.
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Champagne 1 98 (VN) HK$15,985.00
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Vinous (98)

The 2008 Clos des Goisses is just as impressive today as it has always been. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2008 exists in three dimensions, with remarkable textural depth and vertical intensity to burn. Clos des Goisses is notoriously slow to develop. Readers who can be patient will be treated to a spectacular Champagne. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, which makes the 2008 a rare Clos des Goisses that favors Chardonnay. About 75% of the lots were fermented in oak. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter.
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Champagne 1 98 (VN) HK$10,870.00
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Vinous (98)

The 2008 Clos des Goisses is just as impressive today as it has always been. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2008 exists in three dimensions, with remarkable textural depth and vertical intensity to burn. Clos des Goisses is notoriously slow to develop. Readers who can be patient will be treated to a spectacular Champagne. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, which makes the 2008 a rare Clos des Goisses that favors Chardonnay. About 75% of the lots were fermented in oak. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter.
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Champagne 1 97 (WA) HK$6,280.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

Philipponnat’s 2009 Clos des Goisses, disgorged in March 2022 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, stands out as one of the most successful releases in recent memory. It opens with a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and early-blooming white flowers, mingling with nuances of red berry fruit. On the palate, it is full-bodied, profound and textural, supported by a racy spine of acidity and culminating in a long, sapid finish. While 2009 may have once seemed a warm, solar vintage, it no longer appears that extreme when considered alongside the increasingly warm years Champagne has experienced in more recent times. Reaching 12.8% alcohol, the wine exhibits a more elegant and harmonious profile compared to the drier, warmer 2015 and the riper, slightly more precocious 2012. The blend consists of 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, with approximately 37% of the wine vinified in oak.
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Champagne 4 97 (WA) HK$7,590.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

Philipponnat’s 2009 Clos des Goisses, disgorged in March 2022 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, stands out as one of the most successful releases in recent memory. It opens with a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and early-blooming white flowers, mingling with nuances of red berry fruit. On the palate, it is full-bodied, profound and textural, supported by a racy spine of acidity and culminating in a long, sapid finish. While 2009 may have once seemed a warm, solar vintage, it no longer appears that extreme when considered alongside the increasingly warm years Champagne has experienced in more recent times. Reaching 12.8% alcohol, the wine exhibits a more elegant and harmonious profile compared to the drier, warmer 2015 and the riper, slightly more precocious 2012. The blend consists of 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, with approximately 37% of the wine vinified in oak.
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Champagne 1 100 (WE) HK$10,000.00
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Wine Enthusiast (100)

This famed Champagne comes from one of the steepest vineyards in the whole region, facing across the Marne river. With a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, the densely textured wine shows great richness, a magnificent sense of place and structure. This is a very fine wine, a monument among Champagnes, one that will age for many more years. Drink through 2030.
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Champagne 1 100 (WE) HK$4,445.00
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Wine Enthusiast (100)

This famed Champagne comes from one of the steepest vineyards in the whole region, facing across the Marne river. With a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, the densely textured wine shows great richness, a magnificent sense of place and structure. This is a very fine wine, a monument among Champagnes, one that will age for many more years. Drink through 2030.
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Champagne 6 93 (VN) HK$3,465.00
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Vinous (93)

The 2011 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is bright and perfumed, with lovely Chardonnay energy driving the citrus, floral and savory notes. In 2011, Clos des Goisses is a touch lithe, but its balance is simply impeccable. Given the challenges of the year, I would not push my luck on aging. If there is one wine I would be willing to bet on, at least for the medium term, it is Clos des Goisses. Dosage is 4.5 liters per gram.
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Champagne 1 93 (VN) HK$7,305.00
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Vinous (93)

The 2011 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is bright and perfumed, with lovely Chardonnay energy driving the citrus, floral and savory notes. In 2011, Clos des Goisses is a touch lithe, but its balance is simply impeccable. Given the challenges of the year, I would not push my luck on aging. If there is one wine I would be willing to bet on, at least for the medium term, it is Clos des Goisses. Dosage is 4.5 liters per gram.
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Champagne 29 98 (WE) HK$4,190.00
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Wine Enthusiast (98)

This single vineyard, one of the steepest in Champagne, produces fabulous wines. Richness restrained by the minerality from the terroir is balanced by the structured Pinot Noir fruits that bring touches of toast, spice and white fruits. Drink through 2025 at least.
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Champagne 29 98 (WE) HK$8,775.00
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Wine Enthusiast (98)

This single vineyard, one of the steepest in Champagne, produces fabulous wines. Richness restrained by the minerality from the terroir is balanced by the structured Pinot Noir fruits that bring touches of toast, spice and white fruits. Drink through 2025 at least.
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Champagne 1 98 (WE) HK$8,960.00
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Wine Enthusiast (98)

This single vineyard, one of the steepest in Champagne, produces fabulous wines. Richness restrained by the minerality from the terroir is balanced by the structured Pinot Noir fruits that bring touches of toast, spice and white fruits. Drink through 2025 at least.
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Champagne 2 99 (WE) HK$3,180.00
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Wine Enthusiast (99)

The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025.
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Champagne 1 99 (WE) HK$11,290.00
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Wine Enthusiast (99)

The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025.
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Champagne 6 99 (WE) HK$3,250.00
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Wine Enthusiast (99)

The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025.
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Champagne 2 99 (WE) HK$4,288.00
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Wine Enthusiast (99)

The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025.
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Champagne 6 97+ (WI) HK$2,260.00
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The Wine Independent (97+)

The Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 14 is a classic, somewhat yesteryear style of Clos des Goisses that is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay coming from 14 different small parcels each vinified separately with only the best, ripest elements included in the final blend. None of the wines underwent malolactic to retain freshness and it was finished Extra Brut with a 4.5 gram per liter dosage. Ethereal, floral notes of white viburnum waft over layers of ripe red apple, lemon butter biscuits, almond nougat, clover honey and toast then flow into a medium to full-bodied palate infused with a high-gloss, vibrant acidity shining a Klieg light of freshness on pure red berry fruit and citrus intensity. There is an ease of elegance throughout, and incredible length on the creamy finish. 20,000 bottles. Disgorged in March 2023 and finished with a 4.5 grams per liter dosage. 19984 Bottles produced.
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Champagne 4 97+ (WI) HK$4,910.00
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The Wine Independent (97+)

The Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 14 is a classic, somewhat yesteryear style of Clos des Goisses that is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay coming from 14 different small parcels each vinified separately with only the best, ripest elements included in the final blend. None of the wines underwent malolactic to retain freshness and it was finished Extra Brut with a 4.5 gram per liter dosage. Ethereal, floral notes of white viburnum waft over layers of ripe red apple, lemon butter biscuits, almond nougat, clover honey and toast then flow into a medium to full-bodied palate infused with a high-gloss, vibrant acidity shining a Klieg light of freshness on pure red berry fruit and citrus intensity. There is an ease of elegance throughout, and incredible length on the creamy finish. 20,000 bottles. Disgorged in March 2023 and finished with a 4.5 grams per liter dosage. 19984 Bottles produced.
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Champagne 1 97+ (WI) HK$12,540.00
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The Wine Independent (97+)

The Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 14 is a classic, somewhat yesteryear style of Clos des Goisses that is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay coming from 14 different small parcels each vinified separately with only the best, ripest elements included in the final blend. None of the wines underwent malolactic to retain freshness and it was finished Extra Brut with a 4.5 gram per liter dosage. Ethereal, floral notes of white viburnum waft over layers of ripe red apple, lemon butter biscuits, almond nougat, clover honey and toast then flow into a medium to full-bodied palate infused with a high-gloss, vibrant acidity shining a Klieg light of freshness on pure red berry fruit and citrus intensity. There is an ease of elegance throughout, and incredible length on the creamy finish. 20,000 bottles. Disgorged in March 2023 and finished with a 4.5 grams per liter dosage. 19984 Bottles produced.
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Champagne 29 97+ (WA) HK$8,485.00
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Wine Advocate (97+)

Surpassing the 2010, the 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is gorgeous, evoking aromas of pear, mirabelle, spices, honey, brioche and perfectly ripe orchard fruits intertwined with delicate notes of iodine. Full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, it's layered and dense with remarkable depth at the core combined with racy acids and a structured, perfectly balanced mid-palate. Slightly austere at this stage, it finishes long and sappy with a licorice-inflected aftertaste. This blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Readers eager to experience this superb Champagne at its peak should be patient.
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