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Burgundy 2 88-90 (VN) HK$7,030.00
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Vinous (88-90)

The 2017 Volnay Clos des Santenots 1er Cru is a 1.19-hectare monopole and comes from the oldest vines only. Slightly deeper in colour than the Volnay Santenots, it has an attractive bouquet with violet-tinged black and bluer fruit, perhaps more Volnaysian than the cuvée from the younger vines. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, and crisp acidity. Fresh in the mouth but perhaps the growing season denies the depth and complexity on the finish. Or maybe it has something up its sleeve? We will see - I remain prudent for now.
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Burgundy 2 - HK$8,305.00
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Burgundy 1 89 (WA) HK$7,020.00
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Wine Advocate (89)

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots is showing quite well from bottle, offering up aromas of ripe blackberries, plums and cherries, framed by creamy new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with juicy acids, fine tannins and a gently oak-inflected finish. This derives from young vines in Prieur's Clos des Santenots.
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Champagne 1 97 (JS) HK$4,170.00
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James Suckling (97)

Selosse has delivered maximum impact with this 'Version Originale', which is an assemblage of Avize, Cramant and Oger. it has an intense grapefruit nose with hints of grilled nuts and dried honey as well as dried wild flowers and strong chalky minerals. The flavors are concentrated, the acidity vibrant, and Selosse has layered this to build nicely through lemons, grapefruit and peaches before heading to more savory toasted hazelnuts. The final moment shows mineral spark. Complex and balanced, powerful and compelling. Drink now.
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Champagne 1 97 (JS) HK$27,435.00
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James Suckling (97)

Selosse has delivered maximum impact with this 'Version Originale', which is an assemblage of Avize, Cramant and Oger. it has an intense grapefruit nose with hints of grilled nuts and dried honey as well as dried wild flowers and strong chalky minerals. The flavors are concentrated, the acidity vibrant, and Selosse has layered this to build nicely through lemons, grapefruit and peaches before heading to more savory toasted hazelnuts. The final moment shows mineral spark. Complex and balanced, powerful and compelling. Drink now.
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Champagne 1 94 (VN (AG)) HK$39,965.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94)

The NV Demi-Sec Exquise (base 2017) is a selection from the lower slopes of Oger, where soils are rich in clay and where fruit ripens earlier. It was bottled with 22 grams of dosage. In its newest incarnation, Exquise now spends at least four years in the cellar prior to release to help integrate the higher dosage. Rich layers of citrus mingle with scents of chamomile, marzipan and dried flowers, filling out the layers effortlessly. This most recent edition of Exquise will be finished with a retro label.
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Champagne 1 97 (VN (AG)) HK$6,535.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)

The NV (2019) Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont is elegant, nuanced and super polished. Cranberry, white pepper, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and rose petal are some of the notes that take shape in the glass. This is one of the most elegant, refined editions of Sous Le Mont I have ever tasted. It's an ethereal, delicate Champagne with an equilibrium defined by grace and a silky, polished finish more than overt power. All this needs is time in bottle to blossom. Closing notes of blood orange and Campari are classic Mareuil. Dosage is 1.7 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 9, 2026.
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Champagne 1 97 (VN (AG)) HK$16,410.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)

The NV (2019) Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont is elegant, nuanced and super polished. Cranberry, white pepper, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and rose petal are some of the notes that take shape in the glass. This is one of the most elegant, refined editions of Sous Le Mont I have ever tasted. It's an ethereal, delicate Champagne with an equilibrium defined by grace and a silky, polished finish more than overt power. All this needs is time in bottle to blossom. Closing notes of blood orange and Campari are classic Mareuil. Dosage is 1.7 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 9, 2026.
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Champagne 1 97 (VN (AG)) HK$31,850.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)

The NV (2019) Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont is elegant, nuanced and super polished. Cranberry, white pepper, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and rose petal are some of the notes that take shape in the glass. This is one of the most elegant, refined editions of Sous Le Mont I have ever tasted. It's an ethereal, delicate Champagne with an equilibrium defined by grace and a silky, polished finish more than overt power. All this needs is time in bottle to blossom. Closing notes of blood orange and Campari are classic Mareuil. Dosage is 1.7 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 9, 2026.
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Champagne 1 97 (JS) HK$22,620.00
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James Suckling (97)

Very pronounced and wonderfully complex nose of persimmon, egg yolk, cinnamon, tarte tatin, caramel, mango pastry, apricot tart and spice box. The full-bodied palate feathers a fine line between sheer power, luscious dried fruit and laser-guided acidity. Very long and intense on the finish. Drink now or hold. Disgorged 13 November 2018.
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Champagne 2 99 (WA) HK$6,640.00
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Wine Advocate (99)

The most harmonious wine of the six lieux-dits this year—and one of the finest renditions of this cuvée—is the 2018-based NV Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos, disgorged in February 2025 without dosage. The wine unfurls from the glass with a deep bouquet of orange oil, dried flowers, lychee and Sichuan pepper, mingled with kumquat and almond paste. On the palate, it is full-bodied and precise, with an elegantly muscular core of fruit, uniting the typical depth of complexity attained in this bottling with ample structuring extract that provides a vivid sense of freshness. Simultaneously grandiose and racy, it is driven by a bright spine of acidity and culminates in a long, searingly saline finish. Multifaceted and complete, it encapsulates everything that is so compelling about the Selosse lieux-dits. As ever, it derives from two south-facing parcels within the same lieu-dit that are characterized by clay-rich soils, and it is composed of approximately 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, which are picked and pressed together. The historic blend dates back to 2002.
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Champagne 1 99 (WA) HK$34,300.00
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Wine Advocate (99)

The most harmonious wine of the six lieux-dits this year—and one of the finest renditions of this cuvée—is the 2018-based NV Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos, disgorged in February 2025 without dosage. The wine unfurls from the glass with a deep bouquet of orange oil, dried flowers, lychee and Sichuan pepper, mingled with kumquat and almond paste. On the palate, it is full-bodied and precise, with an elegantly muscular core of fruit, uniting the typical depth of complexity attained in this bottling with ample structuring extract that provides a vivid sense of freshness. Simultaneously grandiose and racy, it is driven by a bright spine of acidity and culminates in a long, searingly saline finish. Multifaceted and complete, it encapsulates everything that is so compelling about the Selosse lieux-dits. As ever, it derives from two south-facing parcels within the same lieu-dit that are characterized by clay-rich soils, and it is composed of approximately 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, which are picked and pressed together. The historic blend dates back to 2002.
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Champagne 1 97 (VN (AG)) HK$5,900.00
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)

The NV (2019) Extra-Brut Aÿ La Côte Faron is delicate and haunting in its beauty. Cranberry, crushed rose petal, mint, sage, kirsch and dried herbs open effortlessly in a Champagne endowed with incredible drive and energy. This is classic Aÿ in all its dimensions. Today, the 2019-base is quite closed, but its vibrancy is so captivating and suggestive of a bright future. Wild flowers, spice, mint and sage lift the huge, resonant finish. Dosage is 1.7 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 3, 2026.
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Champagne 1 - HK$42,415.00
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Champagne 1 - HK$29,090.00
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Champagne 1 98 (VN) HK$19,795.00
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Vinous (98)

As great as the 1998 was, nothing could have prepared me for the extraordinary beauty of Selosse’s 1990 Brut. This wine approached perfection, with exceptional purity and precision in its fruit and spellbinding balance. The 1990 came across as more focused and less overtly sweet than the 1998. Both bottles were incredible, but the 1990 was otherworldly.
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Champagne 1 97 (JS) HK$39,405.00
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James Suckling (97)

Two parcels in Avize, smells of creamed baking spices and lemon curd with a fresh mushroom edge ahead of some darker more toasty nuances. The palate’s dry and sheer, very complex and complete. Lemon drop acidity sparks amid a powerfully saline and mineral palate. Very long with a majestic, warming build into the grilled nutty finish. Grace and power, drink now.
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Champagne 1 97 (WA) HK$11,955.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

Whereas Selosse's vintage bottling was formerly derived exclusively from Avize, the 2007 Extra-Brut Millésime is the first that draws on all the estate's holdings, with the vins clairs chosen in a blind tasting. Wafting from the glass with aromas of yellow apple, toasted almonds, nougat, shortbread, warm spices, honeycomb and white flowers, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with incisive acids, chalky structure and a tensile profile. A bottle drunk in Burgundy several weeks after my visit to the domaine was just as striking.
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There is a wealth of great French wine outside the ‘Big 4’ (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and Rhone). The Languedoc Roussillon with it’s herby, robust Mediterranean reds, Provence with its pale, vinous roses, Loire with its flinty Sauvignons, crunchy Cabernet Francs, and endlessly fascinating Chenins, Jura with its old fashioned curiosities… the list goes on. Tradition and terroir are the veins running through them all, making French wines still the most emulated in the world.
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