Chateauneuf du Pape



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Chateauneuf du Pape

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Rhone 1 94-97 (VN) HK$10,710.00
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Vinous - Josh Raynolds (94-97)

Foudre #1 (the fine one, according to Avril): Bright red. Intense strawberry and raspberry on the nose, with subtle garrigue and minerals adding complexity. Silky red fruit flavors show seductive spice and floral pastille qualities. Finishes with great persistence. Foudre #2 (the tannic one): Ruby-red. Bright red fruit aromas, with a deep undercurrent of licorice adding seriousness. The palate shows very spicy bitter cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors, chewy tannic grip and a long, vibrant finish. If this is Avril's idea of tannic in 2006, the final wine should be a supple beauty. Foudre #3 (the concentrated one, from 80-year-old vines cropped at15 hl/ha): Inky ruby. Rich cherry and cassis aromas, with a deep tapenade quality adding complexity. Sappy, sweet and packing major dark berry punch, this clocks in at 16.5% alcohol, but there's no obvious heat. An approximate blend: I hate doing this, but why not, said Avril, who doesn't believe that on-the-spot blends are accurate reflections of what winds up in the bottle. But this was his idea, not mine! Dark ruby. Powerful kirsch and blackcurrant aromas, with exotic licorice and fresh floral character expanding with air. Pliant dark berry and bitter cherry flavors carry through the long, sappy finish. A balanced, sweet powerhouse from this vantage point, with the concentration to age for at least a decade or two.
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Rhone 1 18 (JR) HK$8,340.00
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Jancis Robinson (18)

Dusty, dried spice nose with lots of energy. Lovely sweetness and fluidity. Already fun to drink with an edge of animal but no suggestion of brett. Very clean and fruity and sweet. Transparent. Already lovely. And somehow it seems refreshing.
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Rhone 2 95 (DC) HK$8,410.00
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Decanter (95)

Paul and Vincent Avril, a father and son team, established themselves as one of the finest producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Despite being predominantly Grenache, it is reminiscent of an elegant northern Rhône Syrah with the texture of a Pinot. With a medium bodied intensity, it has a beautiful red fruit expression with some savoury notes. Harmony, finesse and elegance are probably the three words that best describe this beauty. One for the cellar.
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Rhone 1 98 (WS) HK$12,775.00
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Wine Spectator (98)

This offers a drop-dead gorgeous core of cassis and raspberry pâte de fruit flavors that hold center stage but still allow notes of Lapsang souchong tea, anise, incense and shiso leaf to chime in. Very long, with a sublime feel through the mineral-tinged finish. So seductive already, but this should cruise in the cellar. Drink now through 2040. 6,000 cases made.
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Rhone 2 98 (WS) HK$6,685.00
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Wine Spectator (98)

This offers a drop-dead gorgeous core of cassis and raspberry pâte de fruit flavors that hold center stage but still allow notes of Lapsang souchong tea, anise, incense and shiso leaf to chime in. Very long, with a sublime feel through the mineral-tinged finish. So seductive already, but this should cruise in the cellar. Drink now through 2040. 6,000 cases made.
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Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$11,260.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Another perfect wine from this brilliant estate is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which matches the otherworldly 2007. A classic blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah brought up all in old foudre, this beauty's deep purple color is followed by a mammoth bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black currants, blueberries, Asian spices, and garrigue. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it nevertheless is as graceful as a ballerina on the palate and has ultra-fine tannins, a silky, seamless texture, and a finish that just won't quit. Hats off to vigneron Paul-Vincent Avril!
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Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$4,800.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Another perfect wine from this brilliant estate is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which matches the otherworldly 2007. A classic blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah brought up all in old foudre, this beauty's deep purple color is followed by a mammoth bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black currants, blueberries, Asian spices, and garrigue. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it nevertheless is as graceful as a ballerina on the palate and has ultra-fine tannins, a silky, seamless texture, and a finish that just won't quit. Hats off to vigneron Paul-Vincent Avril!
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Rhone 2 98+ (JD) HK$7,960.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

One of the strongest wines in the vintage is the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape from Vincent Avril. This beauty has everything you could ask for. As with the 2018, the blend is heavily shifted toward Mourvèdre, and it offers a mammoth bouquet of black cherries, graphite, cured meats, Asian spices, and assorted garrigue-like nuances. Deep, full-bodied, and concentrated, it stays straight and focused on the palate (whereas the 2016 is more expansive and voluptuous), with a stacked mid-palate, ripe, silky tannins, and fabulous length. You’re going to want bottles of this in the cellar, and comparing the 2007, 2010, 2016, and 2017 over the coming two decades is going to be a treat.
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Rhone 1 98+ (JD) HK$3,155.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

One of the strongest wines in the vintage is the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape from Vincent Avril. This beauty has everything you could ask for. As with the 2018, the blend is heavily shifted toward Mourvèdre, and it offers a mammoth bouquet of black cherries, graphite, cured meats, Asian spices, and assorted garrigue-like nuances. Deep, full-bodied, and concentrated, it stays straight and focused on the palate (whereas the 2016 is more expansive and voluptuous), with a stacked mid-palate, ripe, silky tannins, and fabulous length. You’re going to want bottles of this in the cellar, and comparing the 2007, 2010, 2016, and 2017 over the coming two decades is going to be a treat.
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Rhone 1 96 (JD) HK$3,155.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (96)

Due to devastating yields, there’s not much of the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape to go around, but it’s going to be worth the extra effort to track down. Based on 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre, and the rest Syrah (and a splash of other permitted varieties), it offers a textbook, classic Châteauneuf du Pape nose of mulled red and black fruits, Provençal garrigue, ground pepper, and saddle leather. These all carry to a medium to full-bodied Clos des Papes that has thrillingly polished tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. Made in a style similar to the 1999, 2004, and maybe a kiss of the 2006, it has the beautiful elegance (again, a Grand Cru Burgundy comes to mind) paired with plenty of intensity and length. I doubt it will shut down and it’s going to evolve nicely for 15-20 years or more.
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Rhone 1 95 (WA) HK$13,045.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

A vintage that Avril is selling to restaurants as he thinks it's drinking beautifully (and I agree), the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc has superb freshness and minerality in its honeyed, hazelnut, licorice and stone fruit-driven bouquet. Layered, pure and balanced, with both freshness and richness, it will continue to evolve nicely, but there's no need to hold off.
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Rhone 1 94-95 (VN) HK$8,675.00
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Vinous (94-95)

Vivid straw-yellow. Highly perfumed citrus and orchard fruit and floral qualities on the mineral-accented nose. Shows excellent concentration as well as vivacity, offering palate-staining pear, Meyer lemon and brioche flavors that stretch out steadily with air. The floral and mineral elements return emphatically on the intense, sharply focused finish, which lingers with serious persistence.
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Rhone 1 100 (WA) HK$20,590.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

The best bottle of this I've ever had, the 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve was utter perfection on this occasion. Made from a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre that was raised mostly in demi-muids, it exhibits awesome notes of blackberry, licorice, smoked herbs, graphite and tinges of minerality. Decadent, massively full-bodied and with sweet tannin, this thrilling Châteauneuf is hard to resist now, yet should continue to knock it out of the park for another decade or more.
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Rhone 1 96-99 (JD) HK$4,640.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (96-99)

A blockbuster in the making is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape les Quartz, which is 100% Grenache from the les Cassanets lieu-dit just beside the estate. Garrigue, kirsch, black raspberries, spice, and incense notes all literally soar from the glass of this sensational red. With full-bodied richness, incredible purity, ultra-fine tannin, and a killer finish, it's going to be one of the wines of the vintage.
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Rhone 1 93 (WA) HK$3,525.00
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Wine Advocate (93)

Sourced from the lieu-dit of Les Bédines, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Safres is almost 100% Grenache. It has the variety's silky tannins but plenty of them, so hold onto your bottles for a few years until the wine comes into balance. Right now, it's clearly got plenty of concentrated red fruit and peppery spice but comes across tight and crisp.
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Rhone 1 93 (JD) HK$3,400.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (93)

Moving to the reds and 85% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre, the base 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a beauty and boasts appealing notes of spiced red and black fruits, cedar, and garrigue. Full-bodied, ripe and undeniably sexy, it’s going to benefit from a year or three in the cellar and drink nicely for over a decade.
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Rhone 1 100 (WA) HK$11,820.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

Deeper and richer, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus ex Machina has been nothing short of perfection on the 3-4 times I’ve been lucky enough to try it. Muscular and powerful, with a serious, full-bodied profile, it gives up incredible aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, licorice, graphite, beef blood and loamy earth. Like most 2010s at this stage, it’s backwards and dense, and needs to be forgotten for another couple of years. This beauty will have 2-3 decades of overall longevity.
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Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$7,385.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

More cured meats, spice, loamy soil notes, and an incredible core of kirsch and currant fruits emerge from the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina. Deep, incredibly concentrated, multi-dimensional and long, it reminds me of the 2007 at this same point in time. This cuvée is always a 60/40 split of Grenache and Mourvèdre, brought up in tank and new demi-muids, and in top vintages, needs 2-5 years of bottle age to really shine, yet I always also fine a certain accessibility given its balance and purity. It’s capable of lasting for two decades.
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Rhone 1 96 (WA) HK$6,055.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous is another gorgeous wine from this estate that offers incredible richness while never seeming heavy, cumbersome or over-the-top. A blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and the rest Muscardin, Vaccarese and Cinsault, it exhibits thrilling cassis, black raspberry, chocolate, crushed flowers and exotic spice. Full-bodied, seamless and incredibly elegant, it has the polish and balance to drink nicely now, but will evolve for 15 years or more.
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Rhone 2 93-95 (VN) HK$6,195.00
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Vinous (93-95)

Opaque ruby. Intensely perfumed aromas of ripe dark berries, candied lavender, cola and white pepper, accompanied by a hint of musky earth in the background. Juicy and broad on the palate, offering alluringly sweet black currant, cherry liqueur and spicecake flavors that pick up a refreshingly bitter edge with air. The dark berry note repeats strongly on the youthfully tannic finish, which clings with superb persistence and lingering florality.
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Rhone 1 98 (JD) HK$4,630.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98)

Deep ruby-colored and offering a heavenly bouquet of black raspberries, toasted spiced, cured meats, licorice, and cured meats, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Combes des Fous is awesome on the palate, with a silky, seamless profile that just keeps on going. Possessing ultra-fine tannin, no hard edges, and a huge finish, it’s a phenomenal bottle of wine. The fact that it was bottled just one month ago makes this showing even more impressive.
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Rhone 1 100 (WA) HK$9,605.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

More flamboyant, open and exotic, with notes of kirsch liqueur, cassis, toasted almonds, sandalwood, lavender, and crushed flowers that you can smell from across the room, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum expands on the palate, with incredible concentration, building, sweet tannin and a finish that just won’t quit. Where the 2010 cuts a more focused path, this puppy is overflowing with fruit and texture. It too is a perfect wine that will evolve for another couple decades, yet given this showing, don’t hesitate to crack bottles over the coming couple of years.
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Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$4,925.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

One of the greatest young wines I’ve ever tasted is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum which is 100% old vine Grenache sourced from a single parcel in the La Crau lieu-dit. Lighter in color than both the Combes des Fous and Ex Machina, it offers a heavenly perfume of kirsch liqueur, crushed rocks, exotic spices, and graphite. This beauty hits the palate with an incredible display of opulent, decent fruit paired with an elegance and seamlessness that needs to be tasted to be believed. With building richness, no weight, ultra-fine tannins, and a finish that won’t quit, it’s released only in magnum, so it will take upward of a decade to hit maturity and will keep for 20+ years. Hats off to the Maurel family and their consultant Philippe Cambie!
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Rhone 1 96-98 (WA) HK$2,220.00
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Wine Advocate (96-98)

A prodigious effort, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale was yet to be bottled during my June visit. It offers up sweet floral aromas, hints of thyme and rosemary and bold cherry fruit. Full-bodied and creamy-velvety in texture, it's a hugely seductive mouthful of wine that I found difficult to spit. If it emerges from the bottling process looking like this, buyers will have huge smiles on their faces.
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Rhone 2 96-98 (WA) HK$2,990.00
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Wine Advocate (96-98)

Superbly concentrated, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale takes floral and tea-like complexities and layers them delicately over crisp raspberries and stone fruits. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, it's full-bodied, velvety and long, with an attractive briny note on the finish.
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Rhone 1 96-98+ (WA) HK$2,995.00
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Wine Advocate (96-98+)

Verging on surmaturité, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes turns the volume up to 11, yet I couldn't help but be captivated by its nuance at the same time. Immensely concentrated raspberries, cherries and a hint of dark chocolate emerge on the nose of this blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, joined by hints of Asian five spice and salted licorice. From the lieux-dits of la Crau (sud) and Cristia, it's full-bodied and hugely powerful (16% alcohol), yet it retains a sense of freshness and elegance on the long, silky-textured finish. Wow!
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Rhone 3 100 (JD) HK$4,925.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The inky colored 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Reine des Bois is a match for the otherworldly 2001 and is a magical wine that couldn’t be any better. Based on 75% Grenache and the balance Mourvèdre, Syrah, Vaccarèse, and Counoise, raised in tank and neutral barrels, its inky black color is followed by an awesome perfume of blackberries, smoked earth/charcoal, licorice, graphite, and garrigue. Deep, full-bodied, with a huge mid-palate, a seamless texture, and serious tannins, it has the purity as well as depth that makes this vintage so compelling. This modern-day legend needs 3-4 years of cellaring and is capable of lasting for 15-20 years.
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Rhone 1 100 (WA) HK$7,180.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

One of the most profound wines in the vintage is unquestionable the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee les Grenache de Pierre, which is 100% Grenache, from sandy soils in the la Crau lieu-dit, raised all in concrete tanks and bottled unfiltered. Its deep ruby color is followed by an incredible bouquet of black cherries, black raspberries, licorice, dried herbs and garrigue. Deep, layered, gorgeously concentrated and ultra-fine, with sweet, ripe tannin and an incredible elegance, drink this sensational juice anytime over the coming 10-15 years.
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Rhone 1 96 (WA) HK$4,570.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

Shockingly good given that it’s 100% Grenache (which struggled in the vintage), the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Grenaches de Pierre comes all from sandy soils in La Crau and Pignan. Aged all in concrete, it’s more focused and concentrated than the Gallimardes, with beautiful minerality, dark fruit, roasted garrigue and assorted Provencal nuances. Serious stuff, with full-bodied richness and chewy tannin, it will have a broad drink window. Count me a fan. Drink 2015-2027.
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Rhone 1 98+ (JD) HK$5,320.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

Almost at the same quality level, yet very different in style, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grenaches de Pierre is more classic as well as elegant. Awesome amounts of black raspberries, graphite, crushed rocks, violets, and spring flower notes emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, perfect balance, plenty of tannins, and a more fresh, focused, oh so pure style. It’s going to merit a triple-digit score in 4-5 years and keep for two decades.
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Chateauneuf du Pape is a large appellation and so it is difficult to make too many generalisations, styles and quality can differ greatly. The terroir is varied but it is the ‘galets ronds’ or ‘pudding stones’ that are so instantly recognisable. Hot, dry, and with Grenache being the prevalent grape out of 13 permitted varieties, the wines are voluptuous and rich with high alcohols.
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