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Loire 1 92 (VN) HK$13,790.00
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Vinous (92)

Just 400 bottles of Pouilly Fumé Asteroide were made in 2019 from the same vineyard as Pur Sang, but the winemaking is different: half of the wine goes in a glass wine globe (a bit like a bonbonne), the other half in a barrel. This is a more varietal expression of the grape and the vineyard with nettle tea, dill and boxwood. Winemaker Jean-Philippe Agisson suggests this varietal character might be down to the influence of the wine globe. There's a firm, tangy finish and a touch of savory, nuttiness on the length. The Pur Sang is a more complete wine than the Asteroide despite the latter having the rarity X factor due to being ungrafted. Certainly doesn't represent good value!
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Loire 1 - HK$16,080.00
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Loire 1 - HK$16,080.00
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Loire 9 93 (VN) HK$5,310.00
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Vinous (93)

Returning in 2018 after 2017 was wiped out by frosts, this is an intense, wild 2018 Buisson Renard, like an untamed head of curls. In clear evidence at this early stage, it has floral and boxwood characters and a nutty oak-derived influence. There's even an intriguing note of peppermint on the sinewy, lengthy finish. In a mid-weight, linear style with a firm, phenolic finish that almost requires knife and fork. This needs more time in bottle to shed its austere frame, but if you're not in a hurry...
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Loire 10 92 (VN) HK$5,310.00
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Vinous (92)

The Buisson Renard tends to be a more supple, more aromatically restrained cuvée in the Dagueneau stable, and the 2019 is no different. It's probably the richer clay soils on this section of the domaine. There's a delicate savory, herbal and oak-derived nutty character. It is fine and fresh with a supple texture that holds the mouth like a gentle embrace.
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Loire 1 95 (VN) HK$6,165.00
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Vinous (95)

Perhaps the most Sauvignon-esque of all the vintage, the 2020 Buisson Renard is richly aromatic with distinctive lime, elderflower, ginger and honeysuckle aromas. It is currently most appealing for its tension as if a strong muscle is being stretched taut. It has masses of concentration and curves in the right places with an attractive sense of bitterness on the long finish. This is even better than when I tasted it from tank last year.
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Loire 1 95 (VN) HK$4,675.00
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Vinous (95)

I'm a bit of a fan of the Buisson Renard. At the bottom of the hill below the winery in the village of Saint-Andelain, there's a greater proportion of clay to flint, giving a broadness to the wine's shape that envelops the whole mouth. In 2022, you can smell the warmth of the vintage and experience its richness and yet its sense of lightness. There's an appealing chew to the wine, and on the finish, a salty residue that makes you want to continue drinking. It retains acidity, line and length and provides precision. Its maker, Jean-Philippe Agisson, believes 8-10 months in stainless steel after being in barrel plus filtration gives the wine this tightening belt.
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Loire 1 - HK$18,220.00
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Introducing the Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Intouchables 2019, a formidable vintage from one of the most venerated producers in the Loire Valley. Precision, intensity and finesse are the hallmarks of Didier Dagueneau's commitment to expressing the true essence of his terroir. Famed for its flinty soil, the vineyards yield an extraordinary Sauvignon Blanc, infused with complex mineral character.

This 2019 vintage is the product of meticulous winemaking and an exceptional growing season. Hand-harvested grapes, low-yield vines, and a temperature-controlled fermentation process contribute to the wine's unique complexity and richness. The resulting wine encapsulates impeccable balance, with vibrant acidity complementing ripe fruit notes and a luxurious mouthfeel.

With limited bottles available, the Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Intouchables 2019 represents an excellent opportunity to savour a sensation from an iconic winemaker known for his relentless pursuit of purity and perfection. A truly unrepeatable experience for the discerning palate.

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Loire 1 - HK$7,030.00
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Loire 2 94 (VN) HK$6,510.00
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Vinous (94)

Sourced from a south-facing single vineyard on flint and clay over chalk, the 2018 Pur Sang is all white flowers and spiced apple pastry. Seemingly effortless and silken, its Sauvignon edges rounded out in barrels. It offers excellent concentration on the mid-palate, a line of acidity acting like a thread and holding the core together like a ball. Delectably textured, with a hint of tannic sensation holding the mouth gently on a lengthy conclusion that's drawn-out and precise. A complex, multifaceted wine.
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Loire 1 96 (VN) HK$5,850.00
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Vinous (96)

What I love most about the 2019 Pur Sang is its focus and precision; the compact, light bodied core carries masses of fragrance across the palate and beyond on the long finish. There's clarity and freshness, with a thread of acidity and minerality pulling the wine through like a needle and thread. It is starting to show the very first hints of time in bottle with a hint of almond alongside the ripe melon notes and nettle tea character. Impressive stuff from this three-hectare parcel in the village of Saint Laurent l'Abbaye, about 5km northeast of the Dagueneau domaine.
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Loire 1 94-95 (VN) HK$6,330.00
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Vinous (94-95)

The 2020 Pur Sang is a compact and focused style with excellent concentration. It is as pure as glacial water. While tender and charming at first, it offers excellent precision, which is not a word you'd normally associate with the warm 2020 season. There is fine tension and structure with an integrated use of nutty oak combining with a fresh nectarine fragrance on the finish. Tasted as a tank sample, this is a 3-ha vineyard that's about 5km away from Dagueneau HQ, sitting on flint over a bedrock of chalk.
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Loire 3 94-95 (VN) HK$6,215.00
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Vinous (94-95)

The 2020 Pur Sang is a compact and focused style with excellent concentration. It is as pure as glacial water. While tender and charming at first, it offers excellent precision, which is not a word you'd normally associate with the warm 2020 season. There is fine tension and structure with an integrated use of nutty oak combining with a fresh nectarine fragrance on the finish. Tasted as a tank sample, this is a 3-ha vineyard that's about 5km away from Dagueneau HQ, sitting on flint over a bedrock of chalk.
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Loire 1 93 (VN) HK$6,795.00
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Vinous (93)

The 2022 Pur Sang is done in a really sophisticated style. Despite its long élevage, it needs a little more time for its oak (demi-muids and cigar-shaped barrels) to integrate fully and for its sense of strictness to mellow. But this isn't a wine you'd crack open on release anyway. It is pure and clear, with fine texture and a tenderness to its core. The 2022 shows fine lines and length, with tangy green flavors like cornichons and dill meeting green orange on the finish.
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Loire 1 93-94+ (WA) HK$17,420.00
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Wine Advocate (93-94+)

From an enclave just outside the cuverie in Saint Andelain, the Dagueneau 2009 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Silex delivers an almost inordinate diversity of floral, herbal, citrus (predominately grapefruit), and pit-fruit (predominately nectarine) elements, with the bitterness of fruit pits, smoky pungency of red currant and crushed stone, as well as notes of shrimp shell reduction and iodine inflecting a long, bittersweet, yet at the same time vibrant, buoyant finish. This silken textured seducer should gain with time in bottle and be worth following for ten or a dozen years.
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Loire 1 17+ (JR) HK$10,870.00
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Jancis Robinson (17+)

Cool and without obvious richness. Really refreshing and with great substance and density. More approachable in youth than I remember some Silex bottlings. You could happily enjoy this layered wine now but it should age well too. It really does taste flinty!!
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Loire 1 93 (VN) HK$2,660.00
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Vinous (93)

The 2019 Pouilly Fumé Silex shows an initial tenderness, sitting quietly and not shouting that it's made it into your glass. This is a wine that has its act together, feeling integrated and balanced with plentiful concentration and a savory long finish. A delicate dill note, which is a characteristic of oaked Sauvignon peeks out amid the hush.
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Loire 1 93 (VN) HK$11,800.00
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Vinous (93)

The 2019 Pouilly Fumé Silex shows an initial tenderness, sitting quietly and not shouting that it's made it into your glass. This is a wine that has its act together, feeling integrated and balanced with plentiful concentration and a savory long finish. A delicate dill note, which is a characteristic of oaked Sauvignon peeks out amid the hush.
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Loire 1 94 (VN) HK$8,465.00
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Vinous (94)

The 2022 Silex is not a lot of fun upon release; dry and tense, it really needs time to mellow. There's flesh from the clay element of its clay-flint soils, which is felt on entry but tightens up as it moves through the mouth. This remains a wine of drive, firmness and upright structure; it speaks of the place it comes from rather than its variety. Aromatics are almost a forgotten element; this is a wine about structure and texture. There is a lemony, wild goat cheese-like note and a distinct flinty whiff. SIlex, after all, means flint in French.
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Loire 2 94 (WA) HK$1,565.00
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Wine Advocate (94)

Grown about 40 kilometers north of Tours on silex clay soils over tuff limestone Eric Nicolas's 2019 Jasnières Les Rosiers is a medium-dry Chenin Blanc from 10- to 40-year-old biodynamically cultivated vines that have been planted in a high density of 10,000 vines per hectare since 2010. Picked by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts, the 2019 was aged on the fine lees for 10 months in oak barrels. The result is another fascinating expression of Chenin with perfectly ripe and intense fruit aromas intertwined with flint stone notes, which combine purity and terroir character with richness and perfect ripeness. On the palate, the wine is round, refined and elegant as well as intense and juicy and carried by a delicate yet piercing mineral acidity to a long and sustainable aromatic as well as tensioned and very promising finish. This is a mouthful of fluid delicacy, and I absolutely adore this wine. It should have great aging potential, yet it already tastes highly seductive. Bottled with 13% alcohol and 17 grams per liter of unfermented sugar.
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Loire 3 - HK$1,870.00
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The Domaine Famille Bourgeois Sancerre Le Graveron 2018 epitomises the finesse of the Loire Valley’s renowned Sancerre appellation. Cultivated in the esteemed Le Graveron vineyard, each Sauvignon Blanc grape is meticulously hand-harvested, reflecting the region’s unique chalk and flint terroir. Domaine Famille Bourgeois, a family-run estate with a heritage spanning generations, employs sustainable viticultural practices to preserve soil integrity and grape quality. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, ensuring the preservation of the wine’s vibrant acidity and aromatic purity. The 2018 vintage showcases a brilliant pale gold hue, with nose notes of citrus zest, white blossoms, and subtle mineral nuances. On the palate, it delivers a harmonious balance of crisp freshness and elegant complexity, culminating in a persistent, refreshing finish. Perfectly suited to complement seafood, goat cheese, and light poultry dishes, Domaine Famille Bourgeois Sancerre Le Graveron 2018 is a distinguished choice for discerning wine enthusiasts.

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Loire 1 98 (JS) HK$2,380.00
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James Suckling (98)

Stare into the abyss and it will stare back at you! This has such an incredible depth of dried-flower and fresh-herb notes that you could get lost in the bouquet, before reaching the sleek and enormously mineral palate. So pristine and dazzling at the super long finish. Drink or hold.
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There is a wealth of great French wine outside the ‘Big 4’ (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and Rhone). The Languedoc Roussillon with it’s herby, robust Mediterranean reds, Provence with its pale, vinous roses, Loire with its flinty Sauvignons, crunchy Cabernet Francs, and endlessly fascinating Chenins, Jura with its old fashioned curiosities… the list goes on. Tradition and terroir are the veins running through them all, making French wines still the most emulated in the world.
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