Wine Spectator (95)

A sleek, elegant red, with fine purity to the aromas of cherry, black currant, iron, olive and tobacco. Shows new oak on the palate, lending both spiciness and structure offset by ample fruit and texture. Ends with a balanced, complex finish. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2026 through 2047. 5,000 cases imported.

Wine Spectator (92)

Fresh and varietally expressive, this red bursts with cherry, black currant, olive, tobacco and sweet spice flavors. Balanced and open, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit and spices. Drink now through 2028. 684 cases imported.

James Suckling (98)

Very scented, complex and layered with a classy nose full of ripe currants, smoke and sweet tobacco leaves. Graphite, charcoal, exotic herbs and cigar box. A hint of black truffle and tapenade, too. Full body with fine, silky tannins that highlight the juicy aspect of this wine. Dusty tannins gradually build up on the palate in a crescendo, following through to a juicy, precise and lengthy finish. Super-polished and refined. There is still cabernet verticality on the palate. The finest Ao Yun so far? It has a finish that lasts almost two minutes. 67% cabernet sauvignon, 17% cabernet franc, 10% syrah and 6% petit verdot. This is a blend of 23% of Xidang village, 21% Sinong, 32% Shuori and 24% Adong. Already drinkable now, but should hold until 2026.

The assortment case contains

1x75cl Bibi Graetz Balocchi di Colore No. 1 | 96 JS/ 100 DB

1x75cl Bibi Graetz Balocchi di Colore No. 3 | 97 JS/ 97 DB

1x75cl Bibi Graetz Balocchi di Colore No. 8 | 95 JS/ 98 DB

3x75cl Bibi Graetz Colore 2020 | 98 JS

Falstaff (97)

Clear ruby with a fine garnet sheen. Impressive nose, very finely drawn, aromas of juicy cherries, blood orange and dried thyme, some liquorice in the background. Polished and precise from the attack to the finish, finely-meshed, very well-integrated tannins, flows beautifully, finely worked out fruit, long finish.

James Suckling (97)

Wonderful aromas of blackcurrants, dark plums, mint, sage, and dried wood. Some sandalwood. Full- to medium-bodied with tannins that have the texture of fine velvet and run down the length of the wine. Extremely polished and refined. Sophisticated. Firm at the end. This will age beautifully. Pure cabernet sauvignon. Best after 2026.

Vinous (94)

The 2020 Barbaresco Bernardot is a super-classic Barbaresco from Treiso. Dried cherry, spice, tobacco, leather, incense and cedar all grace this understated, exquisite Barbaresco. Time in the glass brings out compelling inner sweetness and perfume. This is such a gorgeous wine.

Vinous (96)

The 2019 Barolo Bricco Rocche is fabulous, and also one of the best wines I have tasted in more than 20 years of visiting. Soaring aromatics and bright, layered fruit all meld together in a Barolo of uncommon elegance. Dried flowers, spice, tobacco and cedar are all wonderfully alive in the glass. This potent, virile Barolo is simply lights out. Elegance and power are rarely well integrated in a young Barolo. The 2019 is a wine of real breadth and resonance. Superb.

Vinous (95)

The 2019 Barolo Brunate is gorgeous. We have clearly moved from Barbaresco and into Barolo in this tasting. Rich, creamy and inviting, the Brunate possesses gorgeous depth and striking textural resonance. Red fruit, spice, tobacco and cedar open first, followed by a range of savory and floral top notes that extend effortlessly. There's terrific energy and class here.

The Wine Independent (97+)

The 2020 Château d'Yquem a blend of 75% Sémillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. It has 135 grams per liter of residual sugar and a pH of 3.79. Pale lemon-gold colored, citrus and baking spice notes emerge slowly from the glass, rising to offer well-defined scents of candied ginger, orange blossoms, allspice, and almond tart, leading to a flamboyant core of peach cobbler, ripe, juicy pineapple, jasmine tea, and apple butter with a waft of saffron. The palate is full-bodied and characteristically rich, yet possesses impressive tension and therefore stunning harmony. Layers of exotic spices and fragrant white flower accents fill the palate, leading to a long finish with lingering chalk and mineral nuances. It’s a showy Yquem that is gregarious in youth but is reserving that extra something for those with the patience to wait twenty years or more.

The Wine Independent (97+)

The 2020 Château d'Yquem a blend of 75% Sémillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. It has 135 grams per liter of residual sugar and a pH of 3.79. Pale lemon-gold colored, citrus and baking spice notes emerge slowly from the glass, rising to offer well-defined scents of candied ginger, orange blossoms, allspice, and almond tart, leading to a flamboyant core of peach cobbler, ripe, juicy pineapple, jasmine tea, and apple butter with a waft of saffron. The palate is full-bodied and characteristically rich, yet possesses impressive tension and therefore stunning harmony. Layers of exotic spices and fragrant white flower accents fill the palate, leading to a long finish with lingering chalk and mineral nuances. It’s a showy Yquem that is gregarious in youth but is reserving that extra something for those with the patience to wait twenty years or more.

The Wine Independent (97+)

The 2020 Château d'Yquem a blend of 75% Sémillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. It has 135 grams per liter of residual sugar and a pH of 3.79. Pale lemon-gold colored, citrus and baking spice notes emerge slowly from the glass, rising to offer well-defined scents of candied ginger, orange blossoms, allspice, and almond tart, leading to a flamboyant core of peach cobbler, ripe, juicy pineapple, jasmine tea, and apple butter with a waft of saffron. The palate is full-bodied and characteristically rich, yet possesses impressive tension and therefore stunning harmony. Layers of exotic spices and fragrant white flower accents fill the palate, leading to a long finish with lingering chalk and mineral nuances. It’s a showy Yquem that is gregarious in youth but is reserving that extra something for those with the patience to wait twenty years or more.

The Wine Independent (97+)

The 2020 Château d'Yquem a blend of 75% Sémillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. It has 135 grams per liter of residual sugar and a pH of 3.79. Pale lemon-gold colored, citrus and baking spice notes emerge slowly from the glass, rising to offer well-defined scents of candied ginger, orange blossoms, allspice, and almond tart, leading to a flamboyant core of peach cobbler, ripe, juicy pineapple, jasmine tea, and apple butter with a waft of saffron. The palate is full-bodied and characteristically rich, yet possesses impressive tension and therefore stunning harmony. Layers of exotic spices and fragrant white flower accents fill the palate, leading to a long finish with lingering chalk and mineral nuances. It’s a showy Yquem that is gregarious in youth but is reserving that extra something for those with the patience to wait twenty years or more.

Vinous (97)

With the 2016 still being held for release down the road as it slowly comes into focus, today it's the 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta that is being released into the market. This is dark, sultry and almost animalistic in nature, as crushed fall leaves and earth tones open the experience, giving way to masses of macerated black cherries, cedar shavings, spiced cookies and a lifting hint of camphor. It floods the palate with velvety textures while maintaining fantastic energy, as stimulating acidity adds unexpected vibrancy, and tart wild berries slowly saturate. While structured, the tannins are sweet, and the wine remains remarkably fresh, almost crunchy, as an air of inner rose and balsam herbs slowly fades. Frankly, I can't believe the 2017 finished at 16% abv, because it is simply so palatable and charming.

The Wine Cellar Insider (99)

Truffles, mint-leaf, blue fruits, blackberries, and currants pair with nuances of spice, smoke, leather, and cedar. Full-bodied, rich, and intense, there is a wealth of perfectly, ripe, creamy, opulent, sweet fruits that hold your interest, while expanding for over 50 seconds. There is length, opulence, balance, and flamboyance, along with vibrancy and refinement. Drink from 2025-2060

James Suckling (95)

Juicy and spicy with fresh tobacco, redcurrants and crushed stone character. Medium to full body. Medium velvety tannins and a delicious finish. Will age beautifully as well. Better after 2026.

James Suckling (97)

Very pretty orange peel with currants and blue berries. Flowers, too. Medium to full body with firm and velvety tannins that are polished and impressive. Fresh fruit at the end. Serious structure and brightness. Drink after 2026.

James Suckling (96)

A finely structured and focused Brunello with a complex array of cherries, blackberries, dried roses, bark, licorice and hints of praline. Iodine and oyster shells, too. Medium-to full-bodied with firm, very fine tannins. Beautiful texture and balance. Remains fresh and fine until the end. Try in 2025.

Vinous (92)

The 2019 Barolo Cerequio is a powerful, brooding wine. Black cherry, leather, incense, tobacco, mocha, dried flowers and chocolate all meld together. As always, the Chiarlo Cerequio is dark, ample and imposing; more power than finesse, elements that build nicely into the substantial finish.

Decanter (97)

Dried flowers, red berry baked tarts, rose petals, patisserie elements. Clean, clear and sharp, this is focussed and amazingly taught on the palate. Tannins are present and firm giving the linearity to this - the straight core that drives the wine forward. It's not so expansive, the tension is so apparent still, but so well defined and really graceful. Feels sophisticated and oh so charming. Such amazing almost bitter, minty, freshness on the finish, the licks of stone, graphite, pencil led giving the salinity and minerality. Just such a gorgeous lingering impression that makes you smile. Mouthwatering acidity is up front and centre but it's cushioned and plumped by the tannins and freshness, not giving plushness but certainly adding depth. Amazingly well controlled, full of vivacity and scintillating tension.

Matthew Jukes (20+)

An long-forgotten image flashed into my mind when I first tasted this wine. It took me back to a visit, as a child, to a stately home. Goodness knows where this place was, but I remember walking down a long corridor when a huge door opened to my left. As I walked past, I caught a glimpse of the most glamorous and beautifully decorated room beyond the person holding the door ajar. The door closed, and I passed by, but this image has stuck with me ever since. This momentary glimpse of incredible splendour is echoed in this magnificent wine. It starts midnight black in the glass, then as one focuses on the surface, can one see stars? Interestingly, it finishes black, too, in the form of ultra-fine sooty tannins that caress the taste buds as the flavour senesces. Between these two moments of perfect calm, there is layer upon layer of splendour and magnificence. The keyword for this vintage is ‘proportion’, as I found out half an hour through the presentation. It is an inspired choice because every element of 2020 Ornellaia is in scintillating proportion. 2020 Ornellaia represents more than harmony or balance and more than composure and equilibrium – it is truly in perfect proportion. In fact, I have never tasted a vintage of Ornellaia like it. There is a sense of greatness here, both in the intensity of the fruit and also its freshness and lift on the nose and palate – it is astonishing. The Cabernet theme (the blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot) is dominant both in the primary fruit notes but also in the signature flavours. Merlot adds glossiness and also traction, while Cabernet Franc appears to add grace and also crispness and aromatic flourishes. Petit Verdot acts as the invisible welds that pin this magnificent structure together – a complete three-dimensional flavour with no apparent flaws whatsoever. This wine will undoubtedly drink early in its life, given the silkiness and generosity on display, but it will not genuinely get into its stride for a decade, and I feel it will take another decade for it to blossom fully. My childlike fascination with today’s glimpse into the glass will no doubt grow into a full-blown stroll around this wine with the door flung open wide in years to come. This wine will prove to those with the good fortune to own it that its best is yet to come, so be patient in spite of its early allure. Until then, I do not doubt that it is a work of perfect proportion, so I am delighted to award it my first-ever perfect score for Ornellaia.

Wine Advocate (94)

This wine that once featured Viognier in the blend, is now 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The 2020 Ornellaia Bianco is quite tropical and generous in personality with immediate aromas of papaya, Golden Delicious apple and crushed stone. The wine is beautifully textured and long lasting. I asked if Vermentino might ever feature in this blend (to bring in a Tuscan grape), but the answer is no for now. Vermentino already plays a role in the estate’s very popular entry-level Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia. Viognier is being cut because the grape is difficult, and if you don’t hit the harvest date just right, it can appear flabby and waxy.

James Suckling (92)

A firm and silky wine with bark, berry, chocolate and light coffee aromas and flavors. Medium body. Creamy textured finish. Merlot with cabernet sauvignon and some montepulciano. Drinkable and fresh. Drink now.