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Burgundy |
1 |
94-97 (VN) |
HK$26,165.00 |
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Vinous (94-97)Good medium ruby. High-pitched violet perfume lifts the aroma of ripe black cherry. Wonderfully suave, intense and refined, with a pungently fresh quality that reminded me of cut grass. This highly concentrated wine has perfectly integrated acidity, as well as a stronger limestone character than usual. In a rather masculine style but also seamless and suave. Finishes with outstanding length and class, the tannins totally buffered by fruit and minerals. Mounir Saouma noted that this wine has been great since the beginning.
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Burgundy |
2 |
90-93 (BH) |
HK$19,600.00 |
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Burghound (90-93)Reduction knocks down the underlying fruit though wisps of spice escape the funk. More positively are the racy and highly energetic middle weight flavors that brim with minerality on the markedly firm but balanced and persistent finish that will need to add depth to reach the upper end of my projected range.
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Burgundy |
1 |
92-94 (VN) |
HK$15,830.00 |
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Vinous (92-94)(from vines in both Charmes and Mazoyères): Dark red-ruby. Inviting aromas of raspberry, minerals, smoked meat and dried rose, along with a cool licorice note. Juicy, intense wine with excellent definition and lovely inner-mouth floral lift. Still a bit youthfully medicinal but already conveys an attractive texture and a harmony of elements. Finishes juicy, spicy and quite long, with suave, fine-grained tannins and a repeating suggestion of medicinal reserve. Saouma was not the only producer I visited this fall who noted that Charmes-Chambertin has benefited substantially from global warming. Not too long ago, Charmes typically had a greenness as well as underripe tannins, he said. (I will withhold early judgment on a 350-liter barrel of Griottes-Chambertin, which was fusel and extremely reduced, and still had some unconverted malic acidity.)
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Burgundy |
1 |
91-94 (BH) |
HK$14,835.00 |
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Burghound (91-94)A very pretty and airy nose features notes of red cherry, raspberry and spice with a shading of soft wood and earth. On the palate though this is not nearly as concentrated though there is still perfectly good concentration and a sleek muscularity on the vibrant, detailed and lingering finish. While this is by no means light, it is a Charmes built more along the lines of finesse than power.
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Burgundy |
2 |
88-91 (BH) |
HK$12,250.00 |
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Burghound (88-91)A somber nose half-heartedly offers up notes of forest floor, earth and leather on the essence of red berry fruit-scented aromas. There is better volume and muscle to the bigger and richer if decidedly grippy and somewhat short finish. This too may lengthen out but today it seems a bit clipped and compact.
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Burgundy |
1 |
92-95 (BH) |
HK$14,570.00 |
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Burghound (92-95)This is very ripe, indeed to the point where the cassis, warm earth and softly floral-scented aromas exhibit hints of mocha. In much the same fashion as the Clos St. Denis there is a relatively sleek mouth feel to the solidly intense and muscular larger-scaled flavors that possess a lovely sense of harmony and excellent complexity on the lingering finish that is a bit less youthfully austere than usual.
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Burgundy |
1 |
- |
HK$16,355.00 |
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Burgundy |
1 |
94+ (WA) |
HK$16,880.00 |
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Wine Advocate (94+)The 2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a deep bouquet of smoked meats, cassis, blackberries, incense and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with rich but supple tannins, a deep and concentrated core of fruit, lively acids and a long, thrillingly carnal finish. This is a beautifully made Echézeaux from this challenging frost vintage.
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Burgundy |
1 |
93-95 (VN) |
HK$21,100.00 |
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Vinous (93-95)(the crop level here was barely 15 hectoliters per hectare, according to Saouma): Full, bright ruby. Higher-toned and considerably more expressive on the nose than the Echézeaux, offering aromas of black raspberry, licorice and violet along with suggestions of more exotic ripeness. Densely packed and seriously concentrated, but a bit youthfully imploded owing to its crushed-rock minerality; conveys a strong impression of dry extract but little early sweetness. As young as this wine is, it's much more harmonious today than the Echézeaux. Finishes very long, with serious but fine-grained tannins.
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Burgundy |
1 |
91-93 (BH) |
HK$17,150.00 |
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Burghound (91-93)An overtly floral and well-layered nose is elegant, airy and pure with plenty of spice elements adding breadth to the super-fresh essence of red currant aromas that are trimmed in discreet oak nuances. There is notably more size, weight and power to the tautly muscular flavors that culminate in a serious, robust and lingering finish. This is not a monster of concentration but I like the balance and overall sense of harmony.
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Burgundy |
1 |
93-95 (BH) |
HK$26,375.00 |
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Burghound (93-95)(Don't Miss!)
There is enough reduction to mask the fruit but not the sauvage elements Mazis is famous for. There is a bit more size, weight and power to the big-bodied flavors that brim with both minerality and dry extract, all wrapped in a dusty, mouth coating and tightly wound finish that is austere but not rustic. Once again ample patience will be required as this is very clearly built-to-age.
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Burgundy |
2 |
91-94 (BH) |
HK$15,010.00 |
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Burghound (91-94)Prominent spice nuances add breadth to the distinctly earthy and sauvage-inflected deeply pitched nose of red and dark currant, poached plum and leather. The succulent but muscular medium-bodied plus flavors possess plenty of minerality and even better depth and persistence on the attractively balanced if very firm finish.
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Burgundy |
1 |
- |
HK$53,280.00 |
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Mosel |
1 |
95 (WA) |
HK$2,075.00 |
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Wine Advocate (95)The 2020 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese * (Golden Capsule) shows concentrated lemon fruit and crushed blue slate aromas with spicy notes. Just bottled in June, this Auslese is still pretty reductive, yet it shows its true elegance and finesse on the nose. Very elegant, fresh and salty on the palate, this is a savory, almost dry-finishing Auslese from the Graacher Himmelreich that is characterized by remarkably precise and sharp but ripe acidity that is intermingled with the saline taste and causes a salivating finish. Though still too young to full shine, this is a highly promising Auslese. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 134 22 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
1 |
93+ (WA) |
HK$1,360.00 |
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Wine Advocate (93+)Molitor's 2020 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett (Green Capsule) is super clear, bright and intense on the utterly slatey, herbal and very delicate, even iodine and, with enough aeration, spectacular nose. Lush and round on the textured palate, this is an intense and juicy but most of all saline Kabinett that lifts everything and leads to an almost dry-tasting yet fruity and juicy finish. There is great precision and piquancy here; think of candied lime rind or maybe a mojito. This is an irresistible Kabinett from the Himmelreich in Graach and is one of the best in its category again. 9% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022.
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Mosel |
5 |
97+ (WA) |
HK$4,055.00 |
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Wine Advocate (97+)The 2020 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is precise and clear on the concentrated, remarkably fresh, lemon-scented and zesty nose. Precise and fresh on the palate, this is a savory, enormously salty and zesty Auslese with great definition and a salivating character yet (still?) not the pristine and noble elegance of the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese ***. The finish is stimulating due to its freshness and grapefruit bitterness. A promising Sonnenuhr that is still on its way. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 49 22 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
1 |
97+ (WA) |
HK$5,515.00 |
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Wine Advocate (97+)The 2021 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is bright, pure and fresh on the still discreet but very delicate nose that shows perfectly ripe white fruit and deeper, finely weathered, flinty slate aromas. Lush and round on the palate, this is a highly finessed and stimulating saline and savory Auslese with crystalline, finely grained but nervy acidity and a long and intense yet weightless finish. The wine is finely structured but delivers mouth-filling delicate fruit and is almost irresistible at this early stage. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023.
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Mosel |
1 |
97+ (WA) |
HK$4,200.00 |
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Wine Advocate (97+)The 2020 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (White Capsule) is deep, super intense and aromatic in its precise and elegant fruit but also refined and nuanced, with slate and chamomile flowers highlighting this utterly complex yet pure and "classic," fruity bouquet. Pure and fresh on the palate, this is a precise, crystalline and saline, very elegant and salivating Sonnenuhr that will need some years on the bottle to refine. The finish is very intense, aromatic and precise, revealing a crunchy slate character and mouth-watering salinity. A great dry Sonnenuhr from Wehlen and incomparable with any WSU I know. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 52 21 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
1 |
94 (WA) |
HK$1,471.00 |
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Wine Advocate (94)The 2020 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese (Golden Capsule) started pretty reductive and timid on the nose when I first tasted it straight from the bottle, but it became beautifully pure and refined after three days of aeration. Lush and voluptuous on the palate, this is an intense and sweet yet also very fine, balanced and elegant, subtly concentrated and finely tensioned Spätlese with good mineral length and fine salinity on the finish. The 2020 drinks very beautifully today (if you like it sweet and refined), but it will still taste fine in 10 to 15 years and be more complex. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 18 21 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
1 |
95 (WA) |
HK$1,810.00 |
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Wine Advocate (95)The 2020 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese (White Capsule) is clear, pure, intense and refined, spicy and flinty on the nose that shows fully ripe, yellow-golden Riesling fruit combined with flinty/savory slate aromas. Lush and dense yet crystalline and refined on the palate, this is an elegant, very intense and saline, concentrated and substantial Sonnenuhr Spätlese that is, analytically and also sensorially, certainly an Auslese that reveals a concentrated, lemon-fresh, savory and stimulating bitter finish with great substance and class. This 2020 is remarkably complex and tensioned, but it has stimulating, zesty salinity and serious tannin structure. This impressive dry (or dry styled?) Spätlese will need another five to 10 years to open up and unfold its finesse and layers that it will easily keep for 50+ years, if cellared properly. 11.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 72 21 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
1 |
98 (WA) |
HK$4,355.00 |
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Wine Advocate (98)The dry 2020 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (White Capsule) shows great purity paired with intensity, depth and noblesse, exhibiting ripe and concentrated but savory Riesling fruit intertwined with flinty notes of finely weathered blue slate and lush peach aromas. Rich and intense but highly refined and elegant on the palate, this is a crystalline, very delicate and saline-finishing ZSU with great terroir expression and balance. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 30 21 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
4 |
97 (WA) |
HK$3,190.00 |
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Wine Advocate (97)The 2020 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese ** (White Capsule) comes out pure and intense and with amazing finesse and complexity, reminiscent of ripe and warm stone fruit and chamomile aromas along with notes of almond cake and notes of weathered slate. On the palate, this is a spectacularly good two-starred Auslese with a concentrated but pristine texture but also refreshing phenolics on the saline finish. This is a sublime, nuanced and complex Riesling from one of the Mosel's most exciting vineyards where Molitor holds by far the majority. His 2020 Auslese ** is full of energy, tension and salinity, and dare I say, planet wine doesn't have that much to compete at this level of terroir expression and quality for a price of an incredible 40 euros ex-cellar. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 43 21 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
1 |
99 (WA) |
HK$4,500.00 |
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Wine Advocate (99)The 2020 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) opens with a highly delicate and filigreed bouquet with beautifully clear nuances of apricot and very fine slate on the deep and complex, beautifully refined and precise nose. On the palate, this is a tender, highly finessed and saline Auslese with a concentrated but balanced and seamless texture. Quite sweet still but utterly refined and noble, this delicate, saline and crystalline Auslese doesn't show anything like power or confiture but celebrates its elegance, finesse and definition. A fabulous, pristine Auslese. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 28 22 in July 2022.
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Mosel |
1 |
98 (WA) |
HK$5,210.00 |
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Wine Advocate (98)The 2021 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) offers a very clear and intense, savory, pure and elegant nose of concentrated fruits, including lemon and grapefruit aromas, intertwined with finely flinty notes of crushed slate. Round, lush and generous but also highly delicate and irresistibly savory on the palate, this is a balanced Auslese that is not as lively, bright and saline on the finish as the Wehlener, but it is more textured, richer and possibly also deeper. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023.
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Mosel |
1 |
95 (WA) |
HK$1,995.00 |
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Wine Advocate (95)The 2020 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese (Golden Capsule – AP 22) is pretty reductive on the ripe and concentrated nose that shows a ripe and fine, even coolish Riesling aroma intertwined with refreshing lemon juice and broken slate notes. Lush, sweet and saline on the palate, this is a crystalline, pristine, very elegant and beautifully balanced, irresistibly salivating ZSU with a mouthwatering finish. Absolutely fabulous! 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 22 21 in July 2022.
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Burgenland |
1 |
96+ (WA) |
HK$4,380.00 |
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Wine Advocate (96+)The Blaufränkisch Burgenland 2020 Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben comes from the oldest vines in Lutzmannsburg, which includes not only the three crus that had been singled out in 2019 but also other crus here that are too small to market them separately. This wine delivers all the ripeness, fruit intensity and concentration that Moric has been known for for almost 20 years. The wine is less precise or transparent compared to the crus, but it's dense and complex on the nose (and palate), which is ethereal and spicy and immediately begs for a decanter. Here, the wine is rich, textured and elegant, unfolding its greatness only on the finish that leaves the concentration and power of the first palate for purity, mineral freshness and endless salinity. Tannins, acidity and phenolics as well as body and concentration are in great balance here, yet at this early stage, the wine needs a lot of space and time to breathe and reveal its secrets step by step. This is definitely a wine to cellar for years, just like Clos Nouveau Bourgueil from Gauthier. That means this old-vines Lutzmannsburger may reach an even greater drinking experience in 10 years. I wouldn't miss it. 13.5% stated alcohol. Tasted in Lech in December 2022.
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Coastal Region |
1 |
97 (TA) |
HK$3,145.00 |
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Tim Atkin MW (97)We wine geeks love to discuss the relative merits of the three soil-specific Syrahs from the Mullineux. This is (just) my pick of the trio in 2019, sourced from a two-hectare block on the Jakalsfontein farm. Ginger and violet aromas segue into a palate of remarkable grip and persistence, with energetic acidity and a savoury, satisfying finish. 2022-29
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