Matthew Jukes (18+)

Yet another beautiful 2020, Thalabert is deep, dark and brooding in this vintage, and it has an almost Italianate liquorice and black-fruited theme underpinning its Syrah characters. This makes it an indulgent treat, and the palate is more velvety and forward than any young Thalabert I have tasted. In addition, it has the stuffing to age well, too. What more could you ask for?

Matthew Jukes (18+)

Yet another beautiful 2020, Thalabert is deep, dark and brooding in this vintage, and it has an almost Italianate liquorice and black-fruited theme underpinning its Syrah characters. This makes it an indulgent treat, and the palate is more velvety and forward than any young Thalabert I have tasted. In addition, it has the stuffing to age well, too. What more could you ask for?

Matthew Jukes (20++)

Like La Maison Bleue, La Chapelle barely moved an inch over the five days that it sat open (and gradually oxidising) on my tasting bench. This is a monumental wine with the finest Syrah nose I have seen since the ethereal and intriguing beauty of the remarkable 2016 vintage and also the monolithic stance of the legendary 1990. However, this is not to say that this vintage can be directly compared to either year. There is a latent power about this wine that is as elusive as it is impressive. This solaire vintage has certainly given La Chapelle a sense of foreboding power and yet there is so much grace here, too. You could be sniffing a handful of granite and gravel, a bouquet of freshly picked herbs, a mortar of freshly ground pepper or a punnet of juicy black fruit and yet there is so much more to discover here. What I find so remarkable about this wine is that it does not show any trace of over-ripeness nor does it have any unwanted oiliness or excessive alcohol. In spite of its richness and depth, this is a pristinely refreshing wine with crunch and crackle of filigree tannin which enlivens every sip. In this regard, it is a far less obvious superstar than the preening 1990 and it is a more erudite and statuesque model than the esoteric 2016. In short, this is one of only a handful of vintages of La Chapelle to which I have awarded a perfect score and who is to say that this will not happen again before too long? The care and attention in this entire portfolio of wines are evident and the hard work and holistic approach are not only paying off in the vineyards but also in the glass, too, and this makes 2019 another phenomenally successful vintage for Jaboulet.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

While there are faint roasted coffee bean notes here, which hint at the warm summer, and exotic rose and musk characters that only ever emerge in concentrated vintages, this is a masterclass in restraint and self-awareness. While this 2020 perhaps lacks the overall gravitas and high-rise tannins of the majestic 2019 vintage, this is a very seductive La Chapelle and one that will appeal to lovers of textural, velvety Syrahs. I am certain that everyone who drinks this wine will fall for its charms.

Matthew Jukes (19++)

I fell for this wine in a microsecond – the very moment the first molecule of perfume exploded on my receptors. This is a step-change vintage for La Maison Bleue because I have not seen this degree of single-mindedness and overriding intention before in this wine. 2019 La Maison Bleue seems as if it has realised that it does not need to sit behind La Chapelle in Caroline Frey’s portfolio. It signals, loud and clear, that it ought to be seated alongside its more renowned stablemate and be accorded the opportunity to address the masses as an equal, not a subordinate. This is a bold move from this honed, sleek wine. In 2019, with just that little bit more power and ambition under its belt, it has broken free and it looks absolutely sensational. The fruit is regal and layered and the tannins are precision-cut and perfectly positioned making it every inch a superstar. By the end of day five of my tasting these amazing wines, La Maison Bleue seemed as if it were saying, let’s keep going! While this is a ‘finished barrel sample’, this wine wanted to be tested to its limits and I cannot fault its enthusiasm and excellence. You simply must track it down!

Matthew Jukes (18.5+)

With epic balance and stunning poise, La Maison Bleue is a Burgundian-shaped Hermitage in 2020, making it all the more intriguing and memorable. Like the others in this portfolio, the control here is remarkable, and the weight and length are astounding, too. Iodine and menthol hints coupled with garrigue and sanguineous moments add drama and detail to the sleek black core, but this is not an over-ripe or over-enthusiastic wine but a measured and contemplative soul. Delicious.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

There is extraordinary equilibrium in this sensational wine. It is so finely balanced it is baffling, and the depth and richness is offset with the most dramatic acid and strident minerality I have seen in a wine of this style. There are profound meadow-flower and stone fruit flavour here which enchant the senses but they are marshalled brilliantly by the citrus pith and green apple skin raspiness on the finish. This is the most exciting Chevalier I have ever tasted and it rivals the very best whites from this region and others besides.

Jeb Dunnuck (93-95)

The Grenache-dominated (90% Grenache and 10% Cinsault) 2019 Ventoux Silica is a beautiful wine that just screams cool-climate Grenache with its more ruby, almost translucent color as well as perfumed red fruits, spicy, floral, and gamey aromatics, more medium-bodied richness, and flawless overall balance. Reminding me of a grand cru Burgundy with its seamless texture as well as outstanding length, it’s going to benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and drink brilliantly over the following decade.

Jancis Robinson (18+)

100% Syrah, 100% destemmed. Aged for 18 months in barrel (100% new oak). Barrel sample. Tasted blind. Lots of smokiness here, firm and showing some graphite flinty notes on the nose. A firm and tightly coiled palate with excellent freshness and florality – lots going on and a wine that has so much to offer over the coming years.

James Suckling (98)

St. Joseph is often declared to be a second tier appellation in the Northern Rhone, but here’s proof that it can play in the first league of the region. This has an incredibly deep nose of ripe blackberries, other forest berries and smoke. On the barely full-bodied palate it is simultaneously rich, focused and extremely complex with very graceful fine tannins and stacks of stony minerality at the breathtakingly fresh finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (94-96)

The full-bodied 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Prestige boasts fascinating aromas of garrigue and black raspberries. Despite its considerable heft, the wine is balanced, silky and plush, with a long, lingering finish. Sexy stuff.

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

From a hot, dry year, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Le Secret Des Sabon is another big, rich wine that stays more focused and tight compared to the broader 2023 while still bringing full-bodied richness. Ripe black cherries, roasted garrigue, cured meats, and peppery spice define the aromatics, and it's beautifully concentrated, rich, and textured on the palate with ripe tannins. It will shine for two decades. Drink 2025-2045.

Wine Advocate (90-92)

An 80-20 blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre, the 2019 Cotes du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu Vieilles Vignes is an excellent option for consumers who don't want to spend the extra money for the Saurel family's Gigondas bottlings. The garrigue on the nose is a bit more subtle than normal this year, with the bulk of the aromatics being super ripe cherries and berries. Full-bodied and intense, with a helping of firm tannins that keep the jamminess in check, it finishes dusty and savory, with ample length. This is a big wine, yet one I suspect will mature relatively quickly; drink it over the next 5-6 years.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Collection Charles Giraud includes a big chunk of Mourvèdre and is 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre that was partially destemmed and brought up in demi-muids. If offers a deep ruby/plum color as well as a rich, savory, complex bouquet of black raspberries, cassis, toasted spice, cured meats, and graphite. The Mourvèdre really shows in this beauty, and it's full-bodied, concentrated, and structured, yet never loses its seamless, flawlessly balanced profile. It's going to need 4-5 years of bottle age but will have 20-25 years of ultimate longevity. It's another thrilling wine from this estate.

Wine Advocate (94-96)

The 2019 Gigondas La Louisiane hails from a south-facing slope of clay and sand and is a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Syrah and Cinsault, all aged in foudre. Loaded with black cherries and mixed berries, it's a big, full-bodied effort that drinks surprisingly well already yet has the concentration, length and structure that should enable it to age another 15 years or more.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Also showing considerable elegance, the 2019 Gigondas Les Souteyrades sports a ruby/purple hue to go with beautiful and exotic notes of black raspberries, kirsch, candied orange, violets, and peppery garrigue. Beautifully balanced, medium to full-bodied, and downright silky on the palate, this heavenly Grenache should be snatched up by readers. It's going to keep for 15 years.

Vinous (93)

Glass-staining magenta. Deeply perfumed black raspberry, boysenberry and floral aromas pick up a peppery note with aeration. Juicy and seamless in the mouth, it offers concentrated red berry, cherry-cola spicecake and botanical herb flavors that turn sweeter as the wine opens up. The spice and floral notes linger on a long, subtly chewy finish that features well-knit tannins and a repeating red fruit note.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Always one of the top examples of Grenache in any vintage, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Amiral G. sports a more ruby/subtly purple-tinged color as well as an exotic bouquet of red and black fruits, nori, licorice, wildflowers, and sandalwood-like nuances. There's a touch of background oak, but it's all about exotic, pure fruit. Medium to full-bodied, nicely textured, and seamless, it's another beautiful, brilliant wine from this team.

Jeb Dunnuck (95)

All Grenache Blanc brought up in older barrels, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos Du Belvédère Blanc is light gold-hued and boasts a vibrant, clean, straight-up juicy bouquet of tart peach, minty herbs, and crushed stone. Medium bodied on the palate, it builds nicely with time in the glass and has wonderful freshness and purity as well as a classy, dry finish.

Jeb Dunnuck (96)

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Vieilles Roussannes is also terrific, with a deep, rich, concentrated style that carries classic Roussanne apple and stone fruits as well as honeyed toast, spice, and subtle floral nuances. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and fabulously well-balanced, it's going to drink well for 4-5 years, then probably shut down, only to re-emerge in another decade with a more mineral, honeyed, nutty, complex profile.

James Suckling (98)

Impressive, complex array of wild cherries, raspberries, garrigue herbs, lightly spiced pastry and stony, chalky minerals. Super-fresh florals. The palate has superb texture, roundness, completeness, depth and detail. Powerful yet elegant with powdery tannins and essence-like red fruit. Super-fleshy, supple and dense core, then strong at the edges. Layer upon layer peels away on the finish. Resounding finesse and equilibrium, showing the full potential of the plateau La Crau. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (97)

If anyone tells you that Châteauneuf is just a big red that’s never elegant, then they need to taste this masterpiece of elegance. So many spicy and savory nuances on the very concentrated but almost perfectly proportioned palate. This is both joyful and serious at the very long, focused finish. Decades of aging potential! Drink or hold.

Jeb Dunnuck (96)

The NV Vin de France Arcane Le Fou is another unique wine from this incredible winemaker. This cuvée focuses on different clones of Grenache as well as just about every permitted variety out there (although it’s 85% Grenache). It has a big, sweet nose of blueberries, black cherries, lavender, and peppery incense as well as a full-bodied, layered, powerful yet seamless style on the palate. With no hard edges, silky tannins, and a big finish, it’s a singular wine (it’s mostly from vines in Châteauneuf Du Pape) to enjoy over the coming 10-15 years.