Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (90)

Full medium ruby. Roasted black raspberry and cassis lifted by musky espresso and an exotic smoky, peaty element. Dense and rich; sweet and approachable but with shape and grip. A bit youthfully grapey in the mouth, with smoke and earth notes. Finishes with building, slightly austere tannins and very good length. (Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY)

Wine Spectator (95)

Wonderful aromas of blackberry, lilac and a bit of stems. Full-bodied, with silky tannins, medium sweetness and a long finish. Solid. Needs a little time still. Seems to be coming together now. '77/'85/'97 blind Port retrospective.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2000 Fonseca continues to exude finesse and focus on the nose, with pure blackberry, juniper berries, licorice and a touch of sloes, perhaps as Adrian Bridge remarked, just beginning to close after ten years in bottle. The palate is underpinned by very fine tannins, a sensual, svelte texture with wonderful acidity. The harmony and symmetry is alluring, the finish precise and demonstrating the persistency to suggest a long future ahead. Drink 2020-2060.

Wine Advocate (97-99)

The Fonseca 2011 is typically more forthcoming on the nose compared to the bashful Croft: a strident bouquet with lifted scents of freshly picked blackberries, kirsch, crushed stone and a dash of Hoi Sin and oyster sauce. It is very well-defined, very focused and direct. The palate is silky smooth with not a rough edge in sight, though not a typically voluptuous Fonseca because of the keen thread of acidity and the structure that lends this mighty Port wonderful backbone. A slight viscosity on the finish lacquers the tongue and indicates a core of sweet fruit is ticking away underneath that will surely explode several years after bottling. A tincture of salted licorice on the aftertaste is very attractive. This will turn out to become an outstanding Fonseca, the growing season taming its exuberance with spectacular results. So much potential, but just 6,000 cases were produced. Tasted May 2013.

James Suckling (98)

Lots of ripe fruit here with raisins and wet earth that turn to violets and hot stones. Full-bodied, tannic and powerful with fantastic grip and intensity. Grabs you. Impressive. Drink in 2025.

James Suckling (99)

Extremely complex aromas that show the classic Graham character of black-fruit marmalade and burnt oranges. Follows through to a full body with great grip at the finish. Lightly sweet. Chewy and powerful. Such a focus at the end.

Few producers of spirit, Scotch or other can claim as dynamic a history as Tullibardine. Tullibardine’s modern history begins in 1949 though there was a brewery on the site dating back to 1488 which made ale for the coronation of James VI, (later James I of England). Originally part of the Whyte & MacKay portfolio it was under-appreciated and mothballed in 1995, until it was bought by independent investors setting up the Tullibardine Distillery Ltd. who resumed production and rejuvenated the brand.

A classic Highland gentleman, it is a whisky of fine character and a good example of the terroir of whisky as the distillery draws its water from the Danny Burn flowing from the Ochil Hills, known as some of the purest in the country (the same source of Highland Spring water). This splendid source gives Tullibardine its soft generosity, not to mention its agreeable nature, affording it a remarkable propensity to take to wine finishes better than most. We've even had a very fine rosé-tinted Banyuls finish!

A strikingly designed distillery set among picturesque farmland at the foot of the Ochil Hills in Auchterarder it is in many ways the modern heir of the Perthshire farm distilleries of centuries past. It is a genuine marvel for many insiders that Tullibardine's elegant, gentle spirit has not attracted the attention it deserves. That will not remain the case for long, in our view.

Tasting Note

True to the distillery's style there is a gentle, fine-grained oak influence and a soft, refined perfume to this cask of Tullibardine. It is maturing slowly and the colour is currently akin to a young german Riesling rather than a white Burgundy. The nose is just so pretty and engaging even considering the youth of this cask. A touch of pear rather than apple, some honeysuckle and melon with a subtle floral perfume. Patience is a virtue, but one this makes me struggle to employ. Give it at least 5 years before checking in on it and probably bottle at 15 or above.

Greg Sherwood MW (97-99)

This lovely signature Niepoort 2019 vintage Port apparently has higher tannins than the famed 2017, but at this youthful stage, it is hard to comprehend this with its rich, accessible, voluptuous layers of silky, juicy soft black fruits. Benchmark certainly, a notable success – absolutely. The aromatics are so much more important than the palate flavours at this early blending phase (according to Dirk) and this enticing 2019 shows attractive notes of sweet sun ripened black berry fruits, hints of creamy molasses, savoury black stewed winter orchard fruits and a dusty, stony, smoked cigars complexity. Beautifully silky, supple and textured, there is also a fine, stony, grippy mineral tannin mouthfeel that lends a wonderful frame for the juicy blue and black berry fruit finery to be displayed. Fabulously drinkable, deliciously fresh and vibrant, but eminently bold and characterful, this is certainly another very accomplished wine from the House of Niepoort. (Residual Sugar: 88 g/l RS)

James Suckling (98)

This is a superb baby Noval that reminds me of the 1966. Chewy yet so polished. The light sweetness suggests an overall dialing back of the sugar content. Stemmy and lightly green. A truly classic Noval. Almost all from Pinhao. Buy. Better in 2025.

Whisky Advocate (90)

Unlike their colleagues in Scotland, Japanese distillers do not exchange stock for their blending requirements. This means that each distillery is set up to produce a wide range of styles. Hakushu uses four different types of malt (unpeated to heavy) run through four pairs of differently-shaped stills. Each single malt is a different blend of these bases. While still herbal, this example shows more sherried notes along with sour orange zest, tropical fruit, and some smoke. Complex.

Whisky Advocate (93)

Deep layers of vanilla and mizunara oak with sugar sprinkled pastries, incense sticks, oiled wood, tatami, dried apricot, golden sultana, and faint smoky spiciness. Nectarous mouthfeel with honey, barley sugar, dried citrus, orange peel, and delicate spices, it continues to sweeten beautifully showing vanilla, sugared almonds, banana custard, with hints of ginger and gentle oak. Slightly gummy finish as the vanilla quenches little eruptions of wood spices.

Wine Advocate (98)

Among the most saturated blue/purple/black-colored examples of the vintage, Taylor's 2000 tastes like a young vintage of Chateau Latour on steroids. Aromas of graphite, blackberry liqueur, creme de cassis and smoke jump from the glass. Spectacularly concentrated and enormously endowed, with sweetness allied to ripe tannin, decent acidity, and layer upon layer of fruit and extract, this is the leading candidate for the port of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.

Jancis Robinson (19.5)

This wine was placed immediately after the super-opulent Fonseca in the BFT tasting which may have been a mistake. This is restrained. Well mannered, discreet, keeps its powder very dry. But on the palate it opens out in the most superb, burgundian peacock's tail sort of way. Another wonderful wine from The Fladgate Partnership. Utterly different from the Fonseca. Upright and straight backed. But irreproachable. My gums are virtually impervious to sugar and acid but this wine set them vibrating a bit. Dried prunes ground up with rocks.

Jancis Robinson (17.5)

Blackish crimson with medium rim. Heady and ripe on the nose. Subtle and savoury. Satin-smooth palate entry and a very dry end but really exciting and herbal in the middle. Very much in the Taylor's idiom. Neat and ambitious.

James Suckling (96)

Very complex with dried flowers and roses. Full-bodied, very layered and tightly wound. Chewy and powerful. Firm and off-dry. Needs five or six years to soften. Beauty. Try in 2024.

Whisky Advocate (93)

The first thing you notice is the elegant fragrance of lychee, spring blossoms, lily, rosewater, and raspberry meringue. Deeper in, grassy notes with star fruit, kumquat, and kaffir lime leaves. The flavors offer perfection in their simplicity: silky honey, soft spices, crystalized pineapple, barley sugar, lemon, and orange. On the finish, the spices chatter on and on as the sweet citrus and honey fade in and out. One to cherish.