Ponsot
About Domaine Ponsot
Founded by a soldier returning home from the Franco-Prussian War in 1872, radical thinking and revolutionary ideas seem to be something of a family trait. The current eccentric Ponsot at the helm of this fabulous estate is Laurent, who is making wildly unique yet utterly Burgundian wines from some of the finest Grands Crus in the entire region.
The Winemaking
Although classified as neither biodynamic nor organic, he uses no insecticide or pesticide on his vines that are an average of 50 years old. To ensure quality, the label is unique for having a white spot that turns grey if the bottle has been subjected to extreme temperatures.
Laurent Ponsot studies the moon and the stars (he is not an astronomer), and their effect on the rhythm of life in the vineyards. A holistic approach that sees him lean heavily towards low intervention winemaking techniques to respect this natural harmony. The faintest touch of sulfur is afforded to the grapes upon picking if absolutely necessary, and there is no sorting table in his winery. Once pressed, the liquid is essentially allowed to ferment whenever it wishes for as long as it wishes. Once the wines have achieved the requisite state of their own accord, they may or may not be racked in the following spring or summer depending on the cycle of the moon.
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HK$3,420.00 -
Wine Advocate (91)
From Ponsot's monopole Clos des Mont Luisants (virtually surrounded by grand crus, and which, he opines, represents as steep a slope as exists in the Cote de Nuits), the 2006 Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Cuvee des Alouettes exhibits a healthy, deep color; a nose of well-hung game, cassis, blackberry, and dark chocolate; a creamy richness rare in this vintage; and a low-toned finish in which the wine's abundance of tannins becomes evident as a fine, subtly-abrasive though relatively well fruit-covered spread. The more this opened to the air, though, the more game-like notes dominated, so one should probably treat that as an omen for the wine's future rather than a temporary manifestation of reduction which would in any case be rare at Ponsot where the wines are not sulfured.HK$1,355.00 -
Burghound (91-94)
A very pretty nose of discreet spice notes, red currants and damp earth nuances that continue onto the rich, powerful and impressively concentrated medium-bodied flavors blessed with an abundance of dry extract that buffers the notably firm, mineral-driven and wonderfully complex finish that seems to go on and on. This is terrific and one of the best vintages that I have ever seen for this wine.HK$1,880.00 -
(3x150cl) 2010HK$9,320.00 -
(6x75cl) 2010HK$8,160.00 -
Burghound (89-92)
This offers more aromatic complexity if not quite the same elegance with its ripe nose of plum, cassis, violets and earth nuances. There is good volume to the supple, round and wonderfully seductive flavors that possess a gorgeous mouth feel before terminating in a long balanced and equally complex finish. This is excellent and very stylish as well.HK$4,715.00 -
Wine Advocate (90-92)
The 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvee des Allouettes, which comes from within the Mont Luisants vineyard, has a quite precocious bouquet with blackcurrant, boysenberry and light Hoi Sin scents that unfold nicely in the glass. The palate is solid and dense with firm, quite grippy tannins. There is plenty of energy and tension here with touches of spice and soy lining the ebullient finish. Excellent.HK$5,540.00 -
Burghound (91-93)
This is more complex still if only just with a slightly less elegant array of red and blue fruit scents that include pomegranate, plum, blue berry, earth and a hint of exotic tea. The sleekly muscular middle weight flavors exude a fine bead of minerality on the delicious, intense, well-detailed and powerful finish that delivers excellent persistence. This could accurately be described as a mini Clos de la Roche and should amply repay extended cellaring, indeed it will need at least 6 to 8 years first.HK$1,300.00 -
Burghound (91-93)
This is more complex still if only just with a slightly less elegant array of red and blue fruit scents that include pomegranate, plum, blue berry, earth and a hint of exotic tea. The sleekly muscular middle weight flavors exude a fine bead of minerality on the delicious, intense, well-detailed and powerful finish that delivers excellent persistence. This could accurately be described as a mini Clos de la Roche and should amply repay extended cellaring, indeed it will need at least 6 to 8 years first.HK$10,130.00 -
Wine Advocate (90-92)
The 2014 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Allouettes has an introspective bouquet. There is something steely about this: cold metal, copper piping underneath the transparent red berry fruit. The palate is quite harmonious on the entry. There is a taut line of acidity here, clean and crisp, very linear with touches of bitter cherry towards the finish. There is something moody about this Morey-Saint-Denis, which may well be its way of saying that it needs to be cellared for 3-5 years.HK$5,060.00 -
Wine Advocate (92)
The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes is deeper and more serious than the Cuvée des Grives, wafting from the glass with a lavish bouquet of ripe plum, cherry, cinnamon, licorice, rich soil and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, sappy and powerful, with a deep core of sweet fruit that conceals an ample chassis of fine-grained, chalky tannin.HK$9,140.00 -
Wine Advocate (93)
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes offers up lovely aromas of red plums, rose petals and candied peel that mingle with incipient savory nuances of grilled squab and forest floor. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with excellent concentration, fine-grained and chalky tannins, and above all a bright, vibrant quality that lends this Morey fabulous definition. It will need some time, as it's much more tight-knit than the Morey village.HK$5,750.00 -
Wine Advocate (92+)
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes is also performing well from bottle, unfurling to reveal aromas of raspberries, cherries and sweet berries mingled with hints of orange rind, dark chocolate and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's fleshier and more concentrated than its communal sibling. Built around powdery tannins and succulent acids, it concludes with a longer, more mineral finish.HK$5,405.00 -
HK$4,605.00 -
Wine Advocate (91-93+)
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes opens in the glass with notes of plums, cherries, raw cocoa, cinnamon and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly gourmand, with lively acids and a precise, mineral finish. As usual, this hails entirely from the Clos de Monts Luisants, but the domaine opts not to mention the lieu-dit on the label to avoid confusion with their emblematic white wine from the same vineyard.HK$6,740.00 -
(6x75cl) 2020HK$8,190.00 -
Vinous (92-94)
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée Allouettes was cropped at just 8hL/ha and had only finished its malo before my visit. Nevertheless, this has a harmonious and engaging bouquet, very pure with black cherries, raspberry confit and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, cohesive and gently gripping in the mouth. Maybe another vintage would have bestowed more tension and precision on the finish? Yet it remains an engaging and classy Morey.HK$3,190.00 -
(6x75cl) 2022Burghound (92)
(from the 1er portion of Monts Luisants; an alouette is a lark). Here the expressive nose is comprised by notes of the perfumed essence of various red and dark berries along with floral and anise whiffs. The mouthfeel of the even finer medium weight flavors is enhanced by the presence of evident minerality on the notably more complex and persistent finish that is underpinned by noticeably firmer tannins as well. Excellent.HK$6,645.00 -
Wine Advocate (90)
The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Grives is very pretty this vintage, offering up lovely aromas of sweet red cherry, strawberry and peony. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, fine-grained and silky textured, with an expansive attack and notable structural amplitude. This is classic Ponsot.HK$4,275.00 -
(6x75cl) 2017
Vinous (90-92)
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village Cuvée des Grives comes from just below the woods above the village. It has a clean, precise bouquet of pastille-like blackberry and bilberry fruit, tightly wound at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite focused and very well balanced. This is an unassuming but effective Morey Village with a wonderful saline finish. Superb.HK$4,180.00 -
Vinous (89-91)
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Grives comes from shallow soils, the vines here are 16 years old. This possesses much more complexity and terroir expression on the nose than the Gevrey, sous-bois and truffle permeate the red fruit, with good vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh and smooth with lightly spiced dark cherry and orange zest notes on the finish. Lovely.HK$2,680.00 -
Burghound (90)
(from vines replanted in 2005 in the villages portion of Monts Luisants). A ripe but fresh and elegant nose combines notes of black raspberry, cassis, anise and violet. The lilting and delicious medium-bodied flavors possess excellent delineation and a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the youthfully austere, sneaky long and well-balanced finale. Lovely and very Monts Luisants in character.HK$4,465.00 -
(1x75cl) 2015Wine Advocate (88)
The 2015 Saint-Romain Cuvée de la Mésange is very pretty, wafting from the glass with notes of honey, white flowers and orchard fruit. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with a glossy attack and fresh acids, finishing with good grip. William Ponsot originated in Saint-Romain, and this bottling nods to that heritage.HK$755.00 -
HK$2,925.00 -
HK$2,490.00 -
(6x75cl) 2019HK$3,790.00 -
HK$845.00
