Georges Roumier
Domaine Roumier began as a wedding gift in 1924 when a local girl from Chambolle-Musigny married Georges Roumier. The present day sees Christophe Roumier at the helm achieving considerable regard and esteem for this top-tier domaine. Sparing use of new oak and a deft hand for green harvesting and pruning has led to expressive, nuanced wines which are rightly prized by collectors the world over.
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(1x150cl) 2006Vinous (94+)
Full deep red. Raspberry, violet, truffle and dark chocolate on the nose. Sweet and silky but imploded; as juicy and tight as this is, there's also superb sweet fruit and no rough edges showing. Orange peel and flowers give this a compelling sappy quality. Like the Bonnes-Mares, this has a powerful structure to support a long and graceful evolution in bottle.HK$307,795.00 -
(1x75cl) 2008Vinous (93)
The 2008 Musigny Grand Cru, which was vinified with 100% stems, has a bright, clear ruby core with thin bricking on the rim. The refined, characterful nose displays superb definition, offering cranberry and raspberry fruit, crushed rose petal and a leafy component that becomes more pronounced with aeration. You could argue that the stem addition juts out a little, perhaps exaggerated by its juxtaposition against the 2007 Musigny, although I can abide that facet. The palate is medium-bodied with tart red fruit on the entry, plenty of sous-bois and saline characteristics and plenty of depth. It does not possess the opulence of the 2007; it is more a Musigny that wears its heart on its sleeve. I concur with Tanzer’s observation that the stems have not fully assimilated into this wine, and after a decade, I suspect they never will. Yet this is still a thoroughly enjoyable if not fault-free wine. Tasted in November 2018 at the Roumier Musigny dinner at Épure in Hong Kong.HK$205,310.00 -
(1x75cl) 2011Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (94-97)
Good deep, bright red. Pungent aromas of small wild berries, mint, rose petal and orange peel, plus a whiff of jammy blackberry. Marvelously silky and sweet, offering an uncanny combination of sheer concentration and inner-mouth perfume and vinosity. This struck me as almost more powerful than its 2010 sibling, with more of an impression of weight. Finishes with palate-staining persistence, a hint of violet and great snap.HK$111,270.00 -
(1x75cl) 2012Tim Atkin MW (98)
There's only one barrel of this in 2012 (as there was in 2003 and 1998), but someone will be lucky enough to drink it. It's Christophe Roumier's most ambitous, ageworthy wine, with two thirds whole bunch fermentation, quite marked oak and dense, yet silky concentration, with notes of cinnamon and spice combining with the red and black fruits. Very long, very complex, but still a baby.HK$114,040.00 -
Jancis Robinson (19)
Just less than 0.1 ha (a quarter of an acre). Ancient vines – 1905 or possibly older because the register of vineyards was rewritten in 1905 and when they didn’t know how old a vineyard was they just wrote 1905. His grandfather started as a share-cropper on this vineyard in 1924 and the vines were already old. 80% whole bunch. Barrel sample from a 2016 barrel that is three-quarters of the usual 228-litre size. Deep smudgy crimson. How can grapes become a wine like this? The aroma is outstanding. Deep not explosive, yet still with a prettiness in its seriousness. There’s red and dark fruit, there’s spice, there’s peony, there’s rocky minerality. Super-smooth tannins. Fine grained and not far off silky already. Pure, lifted and precise. Outstanding elegance and length.HK$132,670.00 -
Burghound (95)
(from a .54 ha parcel that is now controlled 100% by the domaine). An exuberantly floralsuffused nose is also cool, pure and airy with its ripe aromas of the essence of wild red currant and truffle hints. The supersleek, intense and chiseled middleweight flavors are almost as mineral-driven as the Les Cras though with more power on the youthfully austere and hugely persistent finish. This is superb and highly recommended.HK$47,845.00
