Haut-Brion
Château Haut-Brion is a Premier Grand Cru Classé (First Growth) estate located in the Pessac-Léognan appellation of Graves, south of Bordeaux. Château Haut-Brion is the oldest continuous winery in Bordeaux, with records of viticulture on the estate from 1423. Haut-Brion has been celebrated for centuries. Samuel Pepys tasted the wine at Royal Oak Tavern on April 10th 1663 and wrote that he "drank a sort of French wine called Ho Bryen that hath a good and most particular taste I never met with". One of the world’s earliest tasting notes!
In the 1855 classification, Haut-Brion was the only First Growth not in the Médoc. The estate is managed today by Prince Robert of Luxembourg. Since 1982 they have increased selection using less than half the number of grapes in the Grand Vin, which has had a notably effect on quality. In addition to the Grand Vin, Haut-Brion produces a red second wine called Le Clarence de Haut Brion. The vineyard also produces a dry white wine named Château Haut-Brion Blanc which is very highly prized.
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Bordeaux | 1 | 96 (VN (NM)) | HK$63,410.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)The 1985 Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for several years. This has an intense nose with dark berry fruit, wild mint, iris flower and just a touch of garrigues. Complex and entrancing. The palate is medium-bodied with the presence and gravitas you expect from a First Growth. Very harmonious with a silky texture and outstanding minerality and tension, this meliorates in the glass, gaining depth and clarity whilst retaining Graves-like typicité. Perhaps this was an under-estimated First Growth for the vintage. This is drinking supremely well, plus it is cheaper than the '89! Tasted at the 1985 dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair. |
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Bordeaux | 3 | 96 (VN (NM)) | HK$10,730.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)The 1985 Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for several years. This has an intense nose with dark berry fruit, wild mint, iris flower and just a touch of garrigues. Complex and entrancing. The palate is medium-bodied with the presence and gravitas you expect from a First Growth. Very harmonious with a silky texture and outstanding minerality and tension, this meliorates in the glass, gaining depth and clarity whilst retaining Graves-like typicité. Perhaps this was an under-estimated First Growth for the vintage. This is drinking supremely well, plus it is cheaper than the '89! Tasted at the 1985 dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 96 (VN (NM)) | HK$30,925.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)The 1985 Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for several years. This has an intense nose with dark berry fruit, wild mint, iris flower and just a touch of garrigues. Complex and entrancing. The palate is medium-bodied with the presence and gravitas you expect from a First Growth. Very harmonious with a silky texture and outstanding minerality and tension, this meliorates in the glass, gaining depth and clarity whilst retaining Graves-like typicité. Perhaps this was an under-estimated First Growth for the vintage. This is drinking supremely well, plus it is cheaper than the '89! Tasted at the 1985 dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$52,660.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)Tasted at the château, the 1986 Haut Brion is a vintage that I had not tasted for some time. It is a blend of 28% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 62% Cabernet Sauvignon according to the chateau's records. Mirroring the 1996 La Mission, in this vintage that Haut-Brion occupies a higher quality level, with more complexity and vivacity on the nose: dusky black fruit, warm gravel, terracotta and cigar humidor. Lovely! The palate is very well balanced, maybe a little rustic compared to recent vintages, yet with firm body and grip. It's the kind of gruff, almost surly, broad-shouldered 1986s that might be a little curmudgeonly compared to 1985 or 1989, however after 30 years you are compensated with plenty of freshness and focus. I don't think it ranks up there with the best of the First Growth...that would come in other vintages, but it still provides plenty of drinking pleasure for those who love their classic claret with capital C. Tasted July 2016. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (JA) | HK$236,385.00 | |||||
Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)A legendary wine, and one that I have only tried twice in my life (and this time thanks to a generous friend in London). It's always a bit nerve-racking to uncork bottles that have so much history resting on their shoulders, but it more than lived up to billing. I hesitate to give a 'drink to' date, as this particular bottle has proved stubbornly long-living, despite 1989 being such a hot and dry year, and a number of them now on their final innings. It is very clearly in its tertiary phase, with saffron, tobacco and roasted earth notes, but there is still fruit here, and an explosion of cigar box, rose petal and liqourice aromatics. I'm not suggesting that this is easy to get hold of, but if you are able to, take your time with it, and share it with friends who will enjoy it as much as you will do. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (JA) | HK$228,820.00 | |||||
Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)A legendary wine, and one that I have only tried twice in my life (and this time thanks to a generous friend in London). It's always a bit nerve-racking to uncork bottles that have so much history resting on their shoulders, but it more than lived up to billing. I hesitate to give a 'drink to' date, as this particular bottle has proved stubbornly long-living, despite 1989 being such a hot and dry year, and a number of them now on their final innings. It is very clearly in its tertiary phase, with saffron, tobacco and roasted earth notes, but there is still fruit here, and an explosion of cigar box, rose petal and liqourice aromatics. I'm not suggesting that this is easy to get hold of, but if you are able to, take your time with it, and share it with friends who will enjoy it as much as you will do. |
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Bordeaux | 6 | 100 (JA) | HK$26,575.00 | |||||
Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)A legendary wine, and one that I have only tried twice in my life (and this time thanks to a generous friend in London). It's always a bit nerve-racking to uncork bottles that have so much history resting on their shoulders, but it more than lived up to billing. I hesitate to give a 'drink to' date, as this particular bottle has proved stubbornly long-living, despite 1989 being such a hot and dry year, and a number of them now on their final innings. It is very clearly in its tertiary phase, with saffron, tobacco and roasted earth notes, but there is still fruit here, and an explosion of cigar box, rose petal and liqourice aromatics. I'm not suggesting that this is easy to get hold of, but if you are able to, take your time with it, and share it with friends who will enjoy it as much as you will do. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 18.5 (JR) | HK$46,115.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18.5)Just lovely wine, and the only one that was not dominated by a single variety, being a Cabernet/Merlot blend. Excellent lustrous, nuanced ruby.. Clearly a very fine mature wine. Strong liquorice notes (Haut-Brion 'warm bricks' earthiness?) For a second I wondered if it was a 1998 Hermitage. Very complex. Spread across the palate. My guess is that no one dared guess it was a first growth but we were looking for appreciation in the comments box... |
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Bordeaux | 6 | 95 (WA) | HK$28,955.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)While in some vintages La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion can be close in quality, that is not the case in this vintage. The 1996 Haut-Brion, a blend of 50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc is clearly on a higher plane than the La Mission. There is something much more expansive and complete on the nose: greater depth of fruit, more harmonious with scents of underbrush, tar, black olive and this bottle perhaps less feral than I have noticed on previous examples. The palate is very well balanced with dark cherries, sous-bois and cedar. This is one vintage where I think the Cabernet Franc plays an important role and lends more complexity. This is a 1996 that has retained and built upon beguiling fleshiness and it will continue to evolve with style and panache. Tasted July 2016. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 99 (WA) | HK$81,235.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (99)Still incredibly youthful and sporting a lot of fruit, the deep garnet-brick colored 1998 Haut-Brion sashays out of the glass with flamboyant red and black fruits, followed by a train of cassis, blueberry pie and chocolate box notions plus accents of iron ore, dried lavender and underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is wonderfully rich and decadently seductive in its generosity of fruit and velvety texture, offering seamless freshness and finishing with epic length and compelling minerality. Oh so delicious right now, with careful cellaring it should continue to excite through 2045 and beyond. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 99 (WA) | HK$44,005.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (99)Still incredibly youthful and sporting a lot of fruit, the deep garnet-brick colored 1998 Haut-Brion sashays out of the glass with flamboyant red and black fruits, followed by a train of cassis, blueberry pie and chocolate box notions plus accents of iron ore, dried lavender and underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is wonderfully rich and decadently seductive in its generosity of fruit and velvety texture, offering seamless freshness and finishing with epic length and compelling minerality. Oh so delicious right now, with careful cellaring it should continue to excite through 2045 and beyond. |
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