Domaine de la Vougeraie
About Domaine de la Vougeraie
Created as recently as 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie has seen one of the most remarkable ascensions to prominence in the entire region. Jean-Claude Boisset (of the famous Boisset Group) took the seismic decision at the turn of the millennium to combine his unbelievable, yet disparate, Burgundian holdings from various négociant companies he had accrued over the years.
A monumentally successful decision, its title is derived from the significant holdings in Boisset’s home village of Vougeot. The winery itself is located not in Vougeot, but rather in Prémeaux - in the old Claudine Deschamps cellars. From this seat, general manager Sylvie Poillot coaxes and crafts sublime expressions of over 30 appellations totalling 40 hectares under vine.
Viniculture
These significant holdings, which include a stunning six Grands Crus, make Domaine de la Vougeraie one of the most important and influential producers in Burgundy – the gorgeous wines produced vintage after vintage make it one the best too. Boisset’s exceptional success, having founded his first eponymous négociant company at the age of 18, means no expense is spared in the viticultural or vinification process. Fully biodynamic practically from the instant it was formed as a Domaine, an entirely new suite of wooden fermentation vats and a state-of-the-art sorting table was added to the winery in Prémeaux.
The result has been some of the most critically acclaimed Burgundy of the past 20 years. The change in winemaker from Pascal Marchand to Pierre Vincent in 2005 has seen a more delicate and perhaps terroir-driven style from Vougeraie – Marchand preferred heavier extraction which resulted in powerful, but perhaps slightly blunted wines. In 2019, Sylvie Poillot has continued the winemaking philosophy of Vincent, crafting a range of wines with an inherent sense of place and judged to perfection in their construction.
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-96 (BH) | HK$4,200.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-96)A much more subtle though not invisible touch of oak surrounds the even more floral-inflected aromas of blue berry liqueur, anise, tea and newly turned earth. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the very, very structured and hugely long and powerful finish. This is an absolute knockout and would be a candidate for the Bonnes Mares of the vintage. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (BH) | HK$8,230.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-96)A much more subtle though not invisible touch of oak surrounds the even more floral-inflected aromas of blue berry liqueur, anise, tea and newly turned earth. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the very, very structured and hugely long and powerful finish. This is an absolute knockout and would be a candidate for the Bonnes Mares of the vintage. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (BH) | HK$13,835.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-95)(from vines near the Morey border, 50% of which were planted in 1902; 100% whole clusters). Here there is no reductive funk as there is a lovely purity to the super-fresh and quite floral nose of red currants, spice and newly turned earth. There is an almost painful intensity to the highly energetic and tautly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that already offer impressive depth and sneaky good length. Despite having reasonable size and weight, this is not an especially big Bonnes Mares though it is one allied with plenty of power and punch. (93-95)/2036+ |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$17,200.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has 100% whole bunch, though stems neatly enmeshed on the nose with hints of blueberry and cassis infusing the red fruit. A little timid at the moment, it will open with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, just a little chewiness on the entry. Structured on the finish, this is quite a "serious" Bonnes-Mares that just needs to muster more charm on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90 (VN (NM)) | HK$7,790.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (90)The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an open nose with clear whole cluster influence, a little stemmy, which becomes accentuated with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a raw entry, quite edgy tannins and a distinct green streak that runs from start to finish. Certainly some underripe fruit and tomato vine notes, though it is still appealing despite all that, perhaps terroir averting potential disaster. Fine. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 90 (VN (NM)) | HK$18,045.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (90)The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an open nose with clear whole cluster influence, a little stemmy, which becomes accentuated with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a raw entry, quite edgy tannins and a distinct green streak that runs from start to finish. Certainly some underripe fruit and tomato vine notes, though it is still appealing despite all that, perhaps terroir averting potential disaster. Fine. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 4 | - | HK$18,045.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$11,860.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2019 Charlemagne Grand Cru has a very lovely bouquet of lemon curd, white peach, almond and flecks of white chocolate, all very well defined. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, rounded and intense, very persistent but with more tension and nerve than some of Vougeraie’s Premier Crus. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 88 (VN) | HK$4,805.00 | |||||
Vinous (88)Good medium red; not too bright. Some leathery funk to the aromas of mocha and milk chocolate. Quite sweet, ripe and high-toned but with surprising acidity keeping the wine from cloying. Still, the flavors run more to leather and torrefaction than to fresh fruit. Cleaner on the finish than on the nose but still in a rather exotic, earthy style. The incisor-saturating tannins are less dry than those of the Corton Clos du Roi. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$11,870.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyeres comes across a big, powerful and super intense. It bursts from the glass with huge dark fruit, freshly cut flowers, tar and licorice, all of which come together with notable intensity. The 2009 shows off superb textural richness all the way through to the finish. The Charmes is young, young, young. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96+ (VN) | HK$6,795.00 | |||||
Vinous (96+)An utterly beguiling wine, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères is constantly changing in the glass. Violets, sage, rosemary, pipe tobacco and cedar meld into a core of deep, resonant black fruit. The 2011 is marked by cool veins of minerality that give the wine its piercing intensity and brightness. At times polished and refined while at other times wilder and more extroverted, the 2011 impresses for its multiple shades of contrast. What a gorgeous wine this is. The 2011 was done with 80% whole clusters and aged in 80% new oak. This is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93+ (WA) | HK$8,950.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93+)Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru has a lighter bouquet than its peers, a little simplistic for a grand cru although it does improve in the glass, becoming savory with hints of dried blood. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, good weight if missing sophistication and breeding, showing a slight bitterness towards the dry finish and yet you cannot help but feel this is going to turn into a lovely Charmes-Chambertin. Maybe this is enduring a dumb phase ... you will just have to wait it out. Tasted September 2016. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$3,180.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 80% whole cluster fruit this year, a high percentage due to the age of the vines planted in 1902. There is fine delineation here, precise black cherry and cranberry scents with a touch of cold granite. It is a nose that demands respect, deservedly so. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple black and red fruit, very pure and smooth with a graceful, marmalade-tinged finish that lingers. This should grow up to be a very seductive, comely Charmes-Chambertin with a long future ahead. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$9,225.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 80% whole cluster fruit this year, a high percentage due to the age of the vines planted in 1902. There is fine delineation here, precise black cherry and cranberry scents with a touch of cold granite. It is a nose that demands respect, deservedly so. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple black and red fruit, very pure and smooth with a graceful, marmalade-tinged finish that lingers. This should grow up to be a very seductive, comely Charmes-Chambertin with a long future ahead. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93 (WA) | HK$5,235.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2015 Charmes Chambertin les Mazoyeres Grand Cru offers up notes of red and black fruit, beetroot, earth and whole cluster spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and silky, with an expansive attack, a layered mid-palate and a long, saline finish. This is quite stylized, marked by whole cluster fermentation which seems to give it a high pH feel, but for admirers of this particular aesthetic—a perspective my score reflects—this should offer two decades of rewarding drinking. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$10,130.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2015 Charmes Chambertin les Mazoyeres Grand Cru offers up notes of red and black fruit, beetroot, earth and whole cluster spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and silky, with an expansive attack, a layered mid-palate and a long, saline finish. This is quite stylized, marked by whole cluster fermentation which seems to give it a high pH feel, but for admirers of this particular aesthetic—a perspective my score reflects—this should offer two decades of rewarding drinking. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$6,955.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from the oldest vines owned by the domaine, now 104 years old, which apparently have no disease and still offer good yields at around 30hl/ha. It has a quite a backward bouquet that gradually unfurls to reveal crushed stone, broom and Provençal herb aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, the 80% whole bunches neatly integrated, and gentle grip toward the finish. Good potential here. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$6,615.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2018 Chambertin-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, great tension and focus, and real precision and poise on the sustained finish. This is an absolute delight! |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-96 (VN) | HK$12,580.00 | |||||
Vinous (94-96)From 104-year-old vines that are still productive, the 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 100% whole bunches. It might well possess my pick of the bouquets from Vougeraie, offering vibrant red berry fruit infused with lovely incense and blood orange scents. The harmonious palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and beautiful balance. Very persistent in the mouth. This is an excellent Charmes-Chambertin. |
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Burgundy | 5 | 93 (VN (NM)) | HK$15,045.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (93)The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères Grand Cru is quite reserved on the nose with slightly darker fruit, introspective but well defined. Hints of cola emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black plum and raspberry fruit. Structured, quite Mazis in style with a sapid almost briny finish, this is not a crowd pleaser and is all the better for it. Cellar required. But the potential is here. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 5 | - | HK$15,045.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$10,255.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$5,500.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru currently shows a lot of reduction on the nose, although there is plenty of fruit packed behind. The palate is rounded on the entry with moderate acidity, but again, the reduction is suppressing the fruit at the moment. Yet it does convey a sense of purity, and the harmony is tangible behind that reductive veneer. Give this four or five years in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 94-96 (WA) | HK$10,255.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94-96)The 2016 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a very concentrated and intense bouquet with citrus fruit, wild mint, orange cordial and a hint of wild heather. The palate is fresh and tensile, very concentrated with a fine line of acidity, just a hint of blackcurrant leaf and curry leaf toward the finish. This is one of the best Chevalier-Montrachet’s out there, a beautifully crafted, succinct wine that should give two decades of drinking pleasure. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 94-96 (WA) | HK$5,235.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94-96)The 2016 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a very concentrated and intense bouquet with citrus fruit, wild mint, orange cordial and a hint of wild heather. The palate is fresh and tensile, very concentrated with a fine line of acidity, just a hint of blackcurrant leaf and curry leaf toward the finish. This is one of the best Chevalier-Montrachet’s out there, a beautifully crafted, succinct wine that should give two decades of drinking pleasure. |
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