Domaine de la Vougeraie
About Domaine de la Vougeraie
Created as recently as 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie has seen one of the most remarkable ascensions to prominence in the entire region. Jean-Claude Boisset (of the famous Boisset Group) took the seismic decision at the turn of the millennium to combine his unbelievable, yet disparate, Burgundian holdings from various négociant companies he had accrued over the years.
A monumentally successful decision, its title is derived from the significant holdings in Boisset’s home village of Vougeot. The winery itself is located not in Vougeot, but rather in Prémeaux - in the old Claudine Deschamps cellars. From this seat, general manager Sylvie Poillot coaxes and crafts sublime expressions of over 30 appellations totalling 40 hectares under vine.
Viniculture
These significant holdings, which include a stunning six Grands Crus, make Domaine de la Vougeraie one of the most important and influential producers in Burgundy – the gorgeous wines produced vintage after vintage make it one the best too. Boisset’s exceptional success, having founded his first eponymous négociant company at the age of 18, means no expense is spared in the viticultural or vinification process. Fully biodynamic practically from the instant it was formed as a Domaine, an entirely new suite of wooden fermentation vats and a state-of-the-art sorting table was added to the winery in Prémeaux.
The result has been some of the most critically acclaimed Burgundy of the past 20 years. The change in winemaker from Pascal Marchand to Pierre Vincent in 2005 has seen a more delicate and perhaps terroir-driven style from Vougeraie – Marchand preferred heavier extraction which resulted in powerful, but perhaps slightly blunted wines. In 2019, Sylvie Poillot has continued the winemaking philosophy of Vincent, crafting a range of wines with an inherent sense of place and judged to perfection in their construction.
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Burgundy | 2 | 91-93 (VN) | HK$3,580.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Thorey 1er Cru comes from three-hectares of vines with thte 50% whole bunch courtesy of the old vines. The nose offers dark cherries, crushed strawberry and wild hedgerow scents, fine delineation and vigour. The palate is slightly creamy in texture on the entry, quite plush and fruit-driven, pure red cherries and strawberry fruit with a sleek and caressing finish. Predesigned to seduce, this should age well in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-93 (VN) | HK$4,550.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-93)(in fût; the malolactic fermentation finished in July): Good medium red. Pure but subdued aromas of currant, black cherry, smoky stone, licorice and violet. Intensely flavored and evolving slowly, combining a restrained sweetness and good salty minerality. Darker in its fruit character than the Clos de Thorey. The wine's strong, spicy, tannic finish calls for more élevage. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$1,015.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru includes one-quarter whole bunch this year. It has a well-defined bouquet of more black than red fruit, plus touches of white pepper and crushed limestone. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, cohesive and silky-smooth. Again, a little more grip would be nice, although it has plenty of charm. Drink after 3–4 years in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$1,395.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | - | HK$5,575.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 87-89 (VN) | HK$3,250.00 | |||||
Vinous (87-89)The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from three climats picked and pressed separately. This has a well-defined, chalky bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite taut and saline with a touch of stem ginger on the finish. Fine. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 86-88 (VN) | HK$3,600.00 | |||||
Vinous (86-88)The 2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets 1er Cru comes from 1.83 hectares of vine and includes 30% whole bunch. The cohesive, focused bouquet features a mélange of red and black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins and nicely balanced, but as with some of the domaine’s other cuvées, I am seeking more grip and density on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 94 (TA) | HK$5,055.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)Focused, bright and pretty, this is a savory, even saline, wine. There's an attractive leesiness on the nose followed by ample yellow fruits on the generous, juicy palate. Plums, sweet apples and cherries mesh on the long finish. I always find this wine delightful. 2022-28 |
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Burgundy | 2 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$6,195.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2021 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot was fairly reduced on the nose when tasted at the domaine and difficult to read. The palate is balanced with commendable weight and touches of tropical fruit with decent length, though surprisingly, given the vintage, it just needs a little more tension on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$7,030.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$14,930.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 3 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$4,180.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2019 Vougeot Le Clos de Prieuré Blanc 1er Cru comes from the 0.83-hectare monopole. Fresh apple blossom and wet limestone scents on the nose are flanked by white flowers. The palate is well defined with a fine bead of acidity. This is a slightly more linear and refined Clos de Prieuré Blanc than previous years, revealing a subtle spiciness on the finish. Very fine. |
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