Wine Advocate (98)

The 2009 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is an awesome example of elegance combined with extraordinary power. The alcohol levels must be between 15.5% and 16%, but the elegance and sublime nature of this wine make it irresistible. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by an extraordinary bouquet of framboise, black cherry liqueur intermixed with blacker fruits, licorice and a hint of flowers. Pure with terrific layers of fruit concentration (although it's remarkably light on its feet), silky tannins, well-integrated acidity and a stunning personality, this monumental Rayas is breathtaking. This beauty will undoubtedly be drinkable early on (although Emmanuel Reynaud considers that to be infanticide), and it is capable of lasting 25-30 years. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007.

Jeb Dunnuck (98)

Showing more finesse and elegance than the Pignan, yet still with plenty of density and concentration, the 2010 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve is a sensational effort from this estate that has a kaleidoscope-like array of framboise, darker cherries, sappy flowers, garrigue, and spice. Opening up beautifully with time in the glass as well, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, multi-dimensional texture, silky tannins, and a great finish. Reminding me slightly of the 1990, it is heavenly today and will be heavenly in another 15+ years as well.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Tasted from bottle at the domaine. Pale, sweet but very rich on the palate – almost heavy. It seems to have gained lots of weight since I last tasted it. Very rich and long. It will presumably be some time before this comes to market. UK importers OW Loeb expect to be able to offer the 2008 next year…

Jancis Robinson (18)

Tasted from bottle at the domaine. Pale, sweet but very rich on the palate – almost heavy. It seems to have gained lots of weight since I last tasted it. Very rich and long. It will presumably be some time before this comes to market. UK importers OW Loeb expect to be able to offer the 2008 next year…

Vinous (98)

The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé is at the start of its broad drinking window. Prominent kirsch liqueur, forest floor, strawberry compote, dried meat, rosemary, pressed violets and sage are only some of the many aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass. Refined to the core, the athletic 2012 packs a laser-like focus and flawlessly integrates the elevated alcohol. This is a remarkably uplifting Rayas with less obvious punch compared to riper years like 2009 or 2010, but the levels of intensity and finesse are jaw-dropping.

Vinous (98)

The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé is at the start of its broad drinking window. Prominent kirsch liqueur, forest floor, strawberry compote, dried meat, rosemary, pressed violets and sage are only some of the many aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass. Refined to the core, the athletic 2012 packs a laser-like focus and flawlessly integrates the elevated alcohol. This is a remarkably uplifting Rayas with less obvious punch compared to riper years like 2009 or 2010, but the levels of intensity and finesse are jaw-dropping.

Vinous (97)

The 2014 Château Rayas is a jewel of a wine. Mingling fragrant aromas of orange blossom, crushed rose petals, forest strawberry, raspberry jam, white pepper, dried lavender, melted licorice and verbena tea. It is deeply moving and hauntingly elegant as it expands vertically on the palate. The silky tannins are drop-dead-gorgeous and contribute to a divine mouthfeel that concludes with a complex finish.

The Wine Cellar Insider (97)

I'm not sure if it's the incredible purity of the fruit, the elegant stylings, or the silky tannins that make you want to take sip, after sip of this elixir. But this is just great! The pure kirsch and cherry sensations are to die for. The finish must last over 40 seconds. The wine is made from 100% Grenache. If you can find it, and afford it, this is a beauty.

Wine Advocate (98)

A blend of 70% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges is the first vintage of this cuvée to be vinified in demi-muids. The cedar seems more subtle and better integrated than past vintages as a result, adding nuance to the other aromas of crushed stone, plums and black cherries. Full-bodied, rich and velvety in texture, with a near-limitless finish, this is simply super stuff.

Wine Advocate (96)

From almost 60-year-old Cinsault vines planted on a sandy site, the 2019 Vin de France Le Peche Originel Sans Soufre Ajoute was made entirely in concrete. It's an enthralling effort, boasting intricate aromas of roses, black tea, orange zest and stone fruit. Expansive on the palate, it feels light and lacy at the same time, gently pulsing with vitality on the lengthy finish. How long it lives and positively evolves will no doubt depend to some extent on how it's transported and stored, as it's unfiltered as well as unsulfured, but I would drink it now for its wonderful perfume and complex flavors.

Vinous (87)

Ruby-red. Aroma of red fruit liqueur. Sweet and nicely concentrated, with good volume but only modest nuance. Shows good freshness and fruit, but finishes with some youthfully tough tannins. Seems distinctly cleaner than a bottle of the '98 I tasted last year. However, my sample of the '99 Cuvee Imperiale was plagued by a raw wood quality that dried its finish.

Jeb Dunnuck (96-100)

Violets, spring flowers, cassis, plums, and incense notes all define the stunningly good 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Imperiale. Made from 100% Grenache from very old vines, it's full-bodied and powerful, yet also graceful, balanced and pure, with terrific freshness and purity. My money is on this flirting with perfection once bottled.

James Suckling (96)

Deep, spicy and fragrant, this is a very concentrated and elegant Chateauneuf-du-Pape with remarkably fine tannins and floral delicacy alongside its earthy primacy. Mainly produced from grenache vines planted in 1901 and 1902. From Demeter-certified biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (96)

So deep and dark, yet with such vitality and energy, this is a great Chateauneuf that’s remarkably drinkable right now. I love the exotic touch (pomegranate and mangosteen) and, in spite of the density, this has a graceful finish that glides over our palate and off into the distance. A grenache-based blend from vines planted in 1901 and 1902. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (97)

The stunning 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale comes from old vines in two sandy parcels—one in Pied Long and one in la Crau. Exotic aromas of orange zest, Campari-like spice and exquisitely ripe cherries appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is silky and creamy in texture yet airy and vibrant, with a long, zesty finish. It's a definite candidate for wine of the vintage, alongside its Mourvèdre-based stablemate, La Part des Anges.