2014
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2014
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Burgundy | 3 | 95-97 (WA) | HK$12,705.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95-97)The 2014 Clos de Tart Grand Cru will contain 40% whole bunch fruit in the final. It was picked from September 17 until September 22. This blend that I tasted included the young vines at the bottom of the vineyard that may or may not be deselected to make a Forge de Tart (the decision will be made next year). It is also the first vintage that does not include old vines at the northwest corner that were pulled up in spring 2014, due to be replanted in four years' time. It has a very well defined bouquet with cranberry and wild strawberry fruit, fine mineral tones and is quite harmonious with hints of wet limestone. The palate is medium-bodied and I feel this has tightened up since I tasted it in September 2015. The fruit also seems a little darker. Blackberry and wild cherry, with a hint of cola and certainly more tangible mineralité on the finish, as you can feel the mouth tingling long after it has bid adieu. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$2,925.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 100 (DC) | HK$48,840.00 | |||||
Decanter (100)Enjoyed over dinner in Burgundy after tasting many truly lovely wines, this wine could erase your memory of anything else. It is a riveting tour-de-force, with a medium lemon-yellow colour and heady, incredibly forward aromas of ripe orchard and stone fruit with exotic spices, butter, and a bit of oak. There is fresh acidity, plenty of body and extract, and incredible finesse and elegance as well. The combination of youthful fruit, fresh acidity, and robust density carry this wine to an interminable finish. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 93 (WA) | HK$13,590.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignieres has a light apple blossom and lime-scented bouquet that needed some encouragement from the glass. It comes across more backward when compared to the 2015 Meursault Rougeot or Narvaux that preceded this wine at the domaine tasting. The palate offers candied orange peel on the entry that gallivants about with mandarin and grapefruit. It is hot-wired with a killer line of acidity that imbues this Puligny with supreme energy. The finish is pleasantly saline and offers a cheeky dab of lemongrass on the aftertaste. This is just superb. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) | HK$8,335.00 | |||||
Vinous (91)(bottled in June of 2016): Dark red. Deep fruit aromas of plum and redcurrant are complicated by leather, game and earth nuances. Surprisingly silky and broad, with its red fruit and smoke flavors joined by a note of milk chocolate. The wine's substantial dusty but ultimately refined tannins currently shorten its finish but there's enough mid-palate density here for this wine to come into balance with bottle aging. Finishes with hints of olive tapenade and milk chocolate. With aeration this wine showed a lovely combination of sweetness and acidity. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) | HK$4,960.00 | |||||
Vinous (91)(bottled in June of 2016): Dark red. Deep fruit aromas of plum and redcurrant are complicated by leather, game and earth nuances. Surprisingly silky and broad, with its red fruit and smoke flavors joined by a note of milk chocolate. The wine's substantial dusty but ultimately refined tannins currently shorten its finish but there's enough mid-palate density here for this wine to come into balance with bottle aging. Finishes with hints of olive tapenade and milk chocolate. With aeration this wine showed a lovely combination of sweetness and acidity. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$28,730.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)The 2015 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is really blossoming now that the wine is safely in bottle. It has a gorgeous, floral bouquet with scents of blueberry, blackberry and briary, wonderful mineral expression here with a palpable sense of energy and precision. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, what you might call a cool Bonnes Mares, sleek and sensual with very fine tension towards the red cherry and kirsch tinged finish. What a gorgeous Bonnes-Mares, though I would be inclined to afford it several years in bottle. Tasted November 2016. |
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Burgundy | 3 | 96 (WA) | HK$10,270.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016. |
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Burgundy | 5 | 96 (WA) | HK$5,245.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96 (WA) | HK$16,620.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96 (WA) | HK$48,280.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91+ (VN) | HK$26,600.00 | |||||
Vinous (91+)Good ruby-red. Wilder on the nose than the Reignots, offering very ripe scents of plum, dark chocolate, brown spices and game. Then big, rich and chocolatey in the mouth, a bit in the style of its 2015 sibling but quite backward and hard to judge today. I get the feeling that this wine is painfully young but I'd be more confident about its ability to reward long cellaring if it showed more of the berry intensity of the other 2014 crus I tasted at this address. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) | HK$85,755.00 | |||||
Vinous (91)Dark red-ruby. Musky, very ripe, soil-driven scents of black raspberry, black cherry and menthol. Silky and fine-grained yet backward today owing to its medicinal reserve. This wine is hiding its sweetness in the early going but it displays lovely phenolic ripeness, not to mention good energy. I'd give it at least three or four years in the cellar. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-91 (WA) | HK$69,800.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (89-91)The 2014 Vosne Romanée les Colombières is blessed with lovely pure fruit on the nose, fuller than some premier crus Vosne-Romanées with impressive fruité. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry, nicely judged acidity and good mineralité. This is a stylish and suave les Colombières with a pleasing saline tang right on the finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-93 (VN) | HK$23,580.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-93)(tasted from tank): Pale, bright green-tinged yellow. Very pure aromas of lemon, lime and honey. Rich and lively on the palate, conveying a strong impression of saline dry extract but also a distinctly fine-grained texture. Precise flavors of lime blossom, menthol and white pepper are nicely framed and extended by harmonious acidity. An excellent showing. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (WA) | HK$37,400.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (98)Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has a clean and fresh bouquet, perhaps just a bit too much lime for my liking, although there is mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry with a superb line of acidity. There is weight and presence to this Montrachet, and it gains weight and delivers a knockout, extremely persistent finish tinged with lemon thyme and sherbet. Though a little disjointed at present, I suspect this will turn into a wonderful Montrachet with style and class. But be warned that it will require several years in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$1,300.00 | |||||
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The Comtesse de Cherisey Meursault 1er Cru Blagny La Genelotte 2014 is a refined mark of enological excellence, nested in the famed vineyards of Meursault, Burgundy. Crafted by Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey, a family-run winery reputable for its exclusive Premier Crus, this vintage encapsulates centuries-old tradition and nuanced viticulture. The wine distinguishes itself with a beautiful luminosity and green-golden hue, the hallmark of meticulously handpicked and gently pressed Chardonnay grapes. Elegant and complex on the palate, it flaunts charming aromatics of white flowers, peach, and fresh almonds, followed by a crescendo of minerally freshness, testament to the illustrious Blagny terroir where it takes root. The wine is given ample time to mature in French oak barrels, accentuating its rounded structure and imparting a subtle hint of vanilla. An exceptional wine for discerning enthusiasts, the Comtesse de Cherisey Meursault 1er Cru Blagny La Genelotte 2014 is the embodiment of Burgundian style and sophistication. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$1,945.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny from Domaine de Chérisey was showing more oak on the nose than the Sous le Puits from Jean-Claude Bachelet that was poured directly before it. It does not quite have the same terroir definition. The palate is slightly bitter on the entry with moderate weight; however, this bottle did not quite convey the mineralité expected. Another bottle that was offered at the domaine when I last visited and subsequently tasted at home showed much better than this, with far more nervosité and tension, a live-wire sense of energy you would expect from these vines that lie higher up the slope. My score reflects this second, more representative bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$1,415.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)Deep red-ruby. Tight but tangy scents of black fruits, crushed stone, minerals and licorice, plus an exotic suggestion of white stone fruits. Wonderfully sappy, precise and energetic, conveying an impression of density without weight. This silky, refined wine is still a baby but its ripe, granular tannins and finishing juiciness suggest it will be a beauty with six or eight years of cellaring. |
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The 2014 vintage in Burgundy has been rung in with a great deal of local optimism and excitement. After three successive vintages of incredibly low yield and quantities, the growers of the Cote de Nuits were ready to welcome an easy vintage and the chance to make a bit more wine. Easy seemed to be the word on everyone's lips as the growing season presented few climatic challenges and viticultural decisions were by and large straightforward.
Tasting the wines from barrel, we quickly learned that the reds were easy to taste, forward and classical, while the whites were truly remarkable. More than one winemaker came forward to declare that 2014 saw the best white wines in a lifetime. Good levels of acidity kept the bundles of ripe fruit lovely, while the overall character of the vintage was in such good balance that the wines will be approachable from a relatively young age, while the best will age very well indeed.
In general the Cote de Nuits fared a bit better than the Cote de Beaune by virtue of having escaped the savage hail which effected the latter. As much as the hail devastated yields, it fortunately did not impact on quality and many producers managed to make some truly exceptional wines with great forward fruit and firm structure.
Overall this is a vintage with a lot to offer and for Burgundy lovers, it is one to celebrate. Each appellaton was true to style and the winemakers had room to impart their own subtle influence on the finish product. Freshness, flavour and verve are the keyword this year and they come together in bundles.
