Burgundy
When it comes to the world of fine wines, Burgundy stands tall as one of the most revered and sought-after regions. Renowned for its exceptional terroir and commitment to quality, Burgundy has long captivated enthusiasts with its exquisite and highly prized wines. Today, let us delve into the realm of the best and most expensive wines that Burgundy has to offer, a realm where true wine aficionados can indulge in the pinnacle of winemaking excellence.
At the heart of Burgundy's prestige lie its renowned vineyards, which have garnered global acclaim for their exceptional wines. The names that resonate in the world of Burgundy are Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, Domaine Armand Rousseau, and Domaine Georges Roumier. These vineyards have become synonymous with greatness, crafting wines that define elegance, complexity, and longevity.
Burgundy's most esteemed wines are crafted from two noble grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The region's red wines, made predominantly from Pinot Noir, display a finesse and purity of fruit that are unmatched. Vineyards such as Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, and Richebourg produce red wines that command astronomical prices due to their exceptional quality and limited production.
For white wine enthusiasts, Burgundy's Chardonnay-based wines are a true revelation. Vineyards like Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne, and Meursault showcase the full potential of this noble grape, producing wines of unparalleled richness, depth, and complexity. These whites epitomize the artistry of winemaking, with each sip revealing layers of flavors and a harmonious balance between fruit, minerality, and oak.
In the world of fine wines, Burgundy stands as an epitome of elegance, complexity, and refined craftsmanship. Its best and most expensive wines are a testament to the region's unwavering commitment to excellence, terroir-driven winemaking, and the artistry of the winemakers.
Burgundy
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Decanter (94)
Ripe, concentrated currant and plum fruit, with hints of smoke, mineral and leather on the nose, plus firm but finely-grained tannins balanced with fresh acidity, delivering a wine that's both exuberantly fruity yet structured and long. Blended from two lieux-dits: 60% Bretérins and 40% Bas de Duresses. This wine is always a standout in the portfolio and it is terrific in 2020.HK$1,900.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-89)
12 barrels here, so not so bad. The usual almost purple-black colour of this cuvée offers plenty of energy. Dark berry fruit, with a rather stricter finish, and reasonably prominent acidity. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: November 2022HK$975.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-89)
12 barrels here, so not so bad. The usual almost purple-black colour of this cuvée offers plenty of energy. Dark berry fruit, with a rather stricter finish, and reasonably prominent acidity. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: November 2022HK$2,450.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-91)
A similar bright fresh purple, with just a little more fruit weight on the palate. A little bit plusher in texture than the village Auxey, but still with notable acidity behind. A crunchy energy alongside the darker fruit. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted: October 2023.HK$890.00 -
(6x75cl) 2022Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-91)
A similar bright fresh purple, with just a little more fruit weight on the palate. A little bit plusher in texture than the village Auxey, but still with notable acidity behind. A crunchy energy alongside the darker fruit. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted: October 2023.HK$2,660.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)
Darker centre to the colour in the middle. 50% new wood. Shows a bit on the nose but otherwise a decent concentration of darker berried fruit. A few tannins present on the palate, but overall more coherent and much more persistent than the village wine, indeed a lovely aftertaste on alpine strawberry and fresh cherry. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2024.HK$930.00 -
(6x75cl) 2023Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (89-92)
Darker centre to the colour in the middle. 50% new wood. Shows a bit on the nose but otherwise a decent concentration of darker berried fruit. A few tannins present on the palate, but overall more coherent and much more persistent than the village wine, indeed a lovely aftertaste on alpine strawberry and fresh cherry. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2024.HK$2,570.00 -
HK$2,385.00 -
Vinous (88)
The 2017 Auxey-Duresses Village has a lovely bouquet of quite precocious red cherries and crushed strawberry on the nose; undergrowth scents and hints of dark chocolate develop with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a citric opening. A little angular at the moment but displays fine depth. This is a fruit-driven Auxey-Duresses that might need another couple of years to smooth its edges.HK$1,900.00 -
Vinous (89)
The 2018 Auxey-Duresses Village has a pure, floral bouquet with perhaps a little more precision than the 2019. The palate is well balanced with very good depth for an Auxey-Villages, traces of liquorice infusing the red fruit with very good persistency. Excellent.HK$3,190.00 -
Vinous (86-88)
The 2019 Auxey-Duresses Village, which sees no new oak, has a ripe bouquet with opulent dark cherries, iodine and light violet aromas that soar from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a succulent, almost confit-like entry, fine acidity with a sweet pastille-like finish. This should drink well over the decade.HK$1,830.00 -
Vinous (87-89)
The 2020 Auxey-Duresses Village has just a tiny amount of whole bunch fruit. It has quite a precocious bouquet with ample blueberry and black cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, high-toned inky cassis fruit with a sweet, citric finish. Give this two or three years in bottle.HK$1,510.00 -
This Aligoté is forward, bright and fresh. Very easy to drink and overall satisfying. With a bit more complexity than might be expected this is one of the better values among entry-level whites this year. Worth stocking up on at this price.HK$995.00 -
Jancis Robinson (16.5)
Cask sample. Juicy nose that is really salivatory. Lots of ripe fruit here – SO different from the skinny Aligotés of old! Really satisfying drink. I wonder what sort of price it is? Could be QGV? Long and very well constituted.HK$1,365.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (87-88)
Big crop picked 16th September, below Pommard and Volnay and Meursault. Made half and half in 600 litre barrels and stainless steel. A little deeper in colour and indeed in bouquet than the Chardonnay. Apple and fresh quince, mostly young vine produce, but this is absolutely delicious, and sweeps through to a long finish. Tasted: November 2021HK$1,530.00 -
Vinous (87-89)
The 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté was picked on 11 October and will be bottled before Christmas. It has a taut, fresh nose with linden and frangipane scents. The palate is well-balanced and very effortless, with touches of stem ginger that liven the finish. This is a perfectly fine Aligoté.HK$1,105.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (88-90)
The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté was picked two weeks after the main harvest and racked just before the 2023 picking. It has quite a primal bouquet with grapefruit and Conference pear, gaining delineation in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely sense of "rondeur," slightly lower in acidity than last year but with commendable purity on the finish. Lovely.HK$1,150.00 -
HK$1,425.00 -
(12x75cl) 1990Wine Advocate (94)
Similar to the 1990s from one of Pommard's other top producers, Armand and Aleth Girardin, this is a monster wine. It is one of the most concentrated, massive Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted. The wine was bottled with no fining or filtering after it had spent 23-months in small oak casks. The color is black/purple, and the nose offers up sweet aromas of licorice, minerals, and super-ripe black fruits intertwined with the smell of toasty vanillin new oak. In the mouth, there is awesome concentration, a thick, glycerin-imbued, full-bodied, chewy texture, and mouthsearing tannins in the explosively long finish. This should prove to be a monumental Pommard, but prospective purchasers will need to wait 10-12 years for this wine to shed some of its tannic clout. It should keep for 25-30 years.HK$32,230.00 -
(6x150cl) 1990Wine Advocate (94)
Similar to the 1990s from one of Pommard's other top producers, Armand and Aleth Girardin, this is a monster wine. It is one of the most concentrated, massive Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted. The wine was bottled with no fining or filtering after it had spent 23-months in small oak casks. The color is black/purple, and the nose offers up sweet aromas of licorice, minerals, and super-ripe black fruits intertwined with the smell of toasty vanillin new oak. In the mouth, there is awesome concentration, a thick, glycerin-imbued, full-bodied, chewy texture, and mouthsearing tannins in the explosively long finish. This should prove to be a monumental Pommard, but prospective purchasers will need to wait 10-12 years for this wine to shed some of its tannic clout. It should keep for 25-30 years.HK$41,505.00 -
(12x75cl) 1999Vinous (93+)
(this was Benjamin Leroux's first vintage at Domaine des Epéneaux): Full medium red with little sign of amber. Aromas and flavors of black raspberry, spices and dried flowers are complicated by a suggestion of underbrush. Still tight and evolving at a snail's pace, displaying a touch of sweetness and decadence but framed by brisk acidity. A rather traditionally styled Pommard with a serious dusting of tannins and a late note or orange zest. Nicely balanced wine, but with its strong acidity and dusty tannins still in need of a couple more years of aging--or some time in a decanter.HK$27,350.00 -
Vinous (92)
Slightly hazy medium red. Reticent but still-fresh aromas of redcurrant, red cherry, truffle and leather; lovely fruit retention here. Concentrated and energetic, offering considerable sex appeal to its flavors of red fruits, leather, smoked meat, truffle and earth. The suave finish features fine-grained tannins nicely supported by mid-palate fruit and excellent length. (Winemaker Paul Zinetti also showed me a 375-ml. bottle of the basic Pommard, made from young vines from the Clos, and it too showed lovely sweetness and retention of fruit--remarkable for the bottle format. I rated this sample 89 points.)HK$1,975.00 -
Wine Advocate (94)
The 2008 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux is far superior to the 2005. It is relatively backward on the nose, but it has startling delineation with open, natural red-berry fruit – predominantly freshly picked strawberries, raspberry and pomegranate. With continued aeration it offers a cheeky hint of white chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins. This is very harmonious and feminine with a silky texture that lends it a Vosne-like finish. What a lovely 2008! Drink now-2022+HK$1,260.00 -
(6x75cl) 2008Wine Advocate (94)
The 2008 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux is far superior to the 2005. It is relatively backward on the nose, but it has startling delineation with open, natural red-berry fruit – predominantly freshly picked strawberries, raspberry and pomegranate. With continued aeration it offers a cheeky hint of white chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins. This is very harmonious and feminine with a silky texture that lends it a Vosne-like finish. What a lovely 2008! Drink now-2022+HK$8,560.00 -
Wine Advocate (94)
The 2009 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux is flat-out beautiful. Layers of racy, exotic fruit caress the palate as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2009 is quite typical of the year, yet possesses fabulous overall harmony. Although exuberant today, the Clos des Epeneaux will deliver tons of pleasure for many years. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030.HK$1,205.00 -
Wine Advocate (95)
The 2010 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux could be Leroux’s finest so far. It has a convincing, elegant bouquet that at this early juncture bears semblances to the 2008, but ramps up the intensity without compensating on delineation, with subtle notes of spice and balsam coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, candied entry. This is very pure, soft and caressing in the mouth but around the sides you can feel the tannins gently exerting their grip. There is not a hair out of place on this glorious, shimmering Clos des Epeneaux. Magnifique! Drink 2015-2025+HK$1,425.00 -
Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (91-94)
(I tasted the components of this wine and then this representative blend): Bright medium red. Perfumed aromas of raspberry, cherry and spices, with complicating hints of mint and menthol. Lush, full and ripe yet classically dry, with a captivating creamy texture and terrific vinosity to the flavors of cherry, licorice and rocky minerality. Really impeccably balanced. The primary, slowly mounting finish shows plenty of tannic support and terrific energy. Winemaker Benjamin Leroux noted that this wine got 75% new oak when he took over here in 1999; today, it's 35%.HK$4,625.00 -
(1x150cl) 2012Tim Atkin MW (96)
I tasted this wine on three occasions (including from barrel) this year and it's one of the best releases I've ever tasted from the domaine. Benjamin Leroux has crafted a very fine Pommard, especially in the circumstances. It's a very refined wine, with perfume, crunchy red fruits and medium weight tannins all pulling in the same direction.HK$3,875.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (96)
I tasted this wine on three occasions (including from barrel) this year and it's one of the best releases I've ever tasted from the domaine. Benjamin Leroux has crafted a very fine Pommard, especially in the circumstances. It's a very refined wine, with perfume, crunchy red fruits and medium weight tannins all pulling in the same direction.HK$5,370.00 -
Vinous (91)
The 2013 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has an impressive bouquet with crushed strawberry, star anis and flecks of dried orange peel, perhaps more harmonious than the 2011 and more intense. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit that dovetails into a more savory, slightly grainy-textured finish where it just eases off the gas. Fine, but a more approachable Clos des Epeneaux compared to other recent vintages. Tasted at Goedhuis & Co.'s annual Burgundy tasting in London.HK$1,340.00

