Wine Advocate (100)

The 2009 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is another perfect wine. Made in a completely different style than the more structured, mineral-laced 2010, the 2009 is a flamboyant, exuberant effort with nearly over-the-top ripeness and fruit. However, it is extremely supple, sexy and bursting with complexity, revealing notes of truffles, graphite, black raspberries, espresso roast, spice box, tapenade and bouquet garni. The wine’s richness, full-bodied, massive fruit impact and 50-second finish are amazing.

Wine Advocate (98)

It will be thrilling to follow the 2009 and 2010 la Chapelles over the coming 40-50 years. Much more sexy, voluptuous and layered than the 2010, the 2009 Hermitage la Chapelle offers sensational levels of extract and concentration to go with notes of cassis, black raspberries, coffee bean, toasted bread and sweet spice. Beautifully pure, layered, and yet massively endowed, with sweet tannin, it will be drinkable at an earlier age than the 2010, but I suspect will be just as long lived. It's a true tour de force in Hermitage!

Wine Advocate (98)

Starting off the reds and easily the best example of this cuvee since the 2001, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Laurence is incredible stuff. Deep, rich and layered, with copious notions of smoked meats, licorice, ground pepper, spice and saddle leather, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, terrific fruit intensity and a rich, mouth-coating texture. Hard to resist now, it should nevertheless have two decades of longevity. Drink now-2029.

Vinous (93)

Full ruby. Intense black raspberry and mulberry aromas are complicated by suggestions of Asian spices, licorice and musky herbs. Bright and sappy on the palate, with a seamless texture to the spice-accented red and dark berry compote flavors. Notes of lavender and allspice carry through the long, juicy, nicely focused finish. I suspect that this wine will drink well on the young side.

Vinous (95)

Bright violet color. Wildly complex scents of black raspberry, cherry compote, sassafras, allspice and licorice. Lush and palate-staining, with noteworthy intensity to its open-knit dark berry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors. Silky tannins come on late and meld smoothly with the deep, sappy fruit, which refuses to let go of the palate. I underestimated this powerful, vibrant wine last year.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2009 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is an awesome example of elegance combined with extraordinary power. The alcohol levels must be between 15.5% and 16%, but the elegance and sublime nature of this wine make it irresistible. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by an extraordinary bouquet of framboise, black cherry liqueur intermixed with blacker fruits, licorice and a hint of flowers. Pure with terrific layers of fruit concentration (although it's remarkably light on its feet), silky tannins, well-integrated acidity and a stunning personality, this monumental Rayas is breathtaking. This beauty will undoubtedly be drinkable early on (although Emmanuel Reynaud considers that to be infanticide), and it is capable of lasting 25-30 years. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007.

Vinous (94)

Bright ruby. Black and blue fruits on the nose and palate, with an array of spice and floral qualities adding dimension. Rich but very lively, with impressive intensity and concentration but no sense of heaviness. Supple tannins add shape to the extremely long finish, which features notes of star anise, candied violet and cracked pepper.

Vinous (94)

Bright ruby. Black and blue fruits on the nose and palate, with an array of spice and floral qualities adding dimension. Rich but very lively, with impressive intensity and concentration but no sense of heaviness. Supple tannins add shape to the extremely long finish, which features notes of star anise, candied violet and cracked pepper.

Vinous (89-91)

Deep ruby. Lively and complex nose exudes candied cherry, blackberry, violet, anise and spice cake. Intensely flavored and nicely detailed, offering juicy, vaguely bitter red and dark fruit flavors and complicating notes of allspice and anise. Closes with good clarity, length and an echo of licorice.

Wine Advocate (94)

A super showing for this wine, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is meaty and intense, with black olives and black cherries equally sharing the spotlight. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a long finish, it may be just a bit coarse in texture, but it delivers happiness in the glass. Drink now or hold; it should drink well for at least another decade.

Vinous (92-94)

#1) from old vines in Combard-Mollard: Deeply pitched aromas of cassis and blueberry, with notes of licorice and dark chocolate. Powerful and structured, with deep dark fruit liqueur flavors and suave florality. #2) from Cote Rozier: Energetic and spicy, with potent red and dark fruit flavors and notes of floral pastille and blood orange. Sweeter and darker with air, with impressive finishing cling and alluring sweetness.