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Barbaresco

Barbaresco, seen as the more elegant counterpart of Barolo, spreads over 763 ha under vines (a third of Barolo’s ha), and is divided into four communes.

The Nebbiolo grape is said to ripen earlier here because of the gentler altitude – up to 450 metres – and the proximity to the Tanaro river. The legal guidelines for ageing reflect this, requiring only 26 months minimum of ageing for Barbaresco compared to 38 months for Barolo. Along with altitude, soil variations are another reason for their flavour differences: Barolo and Barbaresco are both limestone-based soils, but Barbaresco's soil is comparatively younger. Stylistically, Barbaresco is often described as a more elegant version of Barolo but, like its neighbour, its wines can come in a diverse spectrum of styles and are never without energy and power.



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Barbaresco

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Piedmont 1 87 (WA) HK$8,000.00
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Wine Advocate (87)

The 2008 Barbaresco Santo Stefano has the same color the 1987 had when it was 20 years old, which is to say almost rose colored. I don’t think the 2008 will make its 20th birthday, however. This is a light, translucent, fleeting wine with very little fruit and body. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016.
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Piedmont 3 94 (JS) HK$5,815.00
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James Suckling (94)

A wine with silky tannins and pretty bright fruit of strawberries and sliced plums and hints of flowers. Full body, fine tannins and a wonderful clarity. Lovely length of fruit. This is the last vintage of Santo Stefano for Giacosa after many decades of success. Needs at least four or five years to soften.
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Piedmont 1 89 (VN) HK$68,820.00
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Vinous (89)

Now, after many years of trying and countless poor/flawed bottles, I can finally say I have had what is likely a representative bottle of Giacosa’s 1988 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano. Lithe and ethereal on the palate, the 1988 is now fully mature, but also has just enough freshness to last for another few years if stored in a perfect cellar. Scents of dried cherry, menthol, worn-in leather, molasses and tobacco shape the lilting finish. Every bottle of the 1988 I have ever tasted in the US has been flawed. This bottle, from a European cellar, is at least sound. The 1988 is holding onto the last vestiges of life. It is also a rare miss from Bruno Giacosa in a decade that yielded so many truly memorable wines.
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Piedmont 1 98 (VN) HK$10,005.00
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Vinous (98)

Of the wines of the 1980s, the 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano vies for the 1982 as the best wine of a decade that saw Bruno Giacosa make a dizzying array of stunning Barolos and Barbarescos. Still explosive and heady, the 1989 captures the best of Santo Stefano vineyard as interpreted by Bruno Giacosa. There’s not much more to say. Heady Nebbiolo aromatics and dense fruit infuse this exotic, deeply satisfying Barbaresco from Bruno Giacosa. The 1989 was the first young Giacosa Riserva I bought on release. The price was $55 a bottle, which was a fortune for me at the time. Many things have changed since then. But the wine? Well, it is as monumental as ever.
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Piedmont 5 89 (VN) HK$2,125.00
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Vinous (89)

The 2018 Barbaresco is a pretty, delicate wine to drink now and over the next few years. Crushed flowers, sweet dried cherry, mint and cedar are nicely laced together. Ultimately, the 2018 is a bit light in depth and concentration. I would prefer to drink it over the next few years.
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Piedmont 5 93 (VN) HK$2,315.00
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Vinous (93)

The 2019 Barbaresco is a fabulous wine at its level. It offers striking depth and intensity. Layered and racy in the glass, the 2019 possesses tremendous depth and tons of pedigree. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mint and white pepper all grace this wonderfully expressive Barbaresco. Vineyard sites are Currà, Fausoni, younger vines in Rabajà and San Cristoforo. The 2019 was aged 70% in cask and 30% in small wood
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Piedmont 12 92 (VN) HK$2,980.00
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Vinous (92)

The 2020 Barbaresco is a terrific entry-level wine from Bruno Rocca, if that term can even be used here. The warm growing season yielded a Barbaresco with lovely forward fruit, silky tannins and tons of upfront appeal. It’s an ideal wine for restaurants or consumers looking for something delicious to drink with minimal cellaring. The 2020 spent 11 months in oak, quite a bit less than the 16-18 of the past, which preserves a good deal of freshness.
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Piedmont 5 - HK$2,620.00
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Piedmont 1 - HK$4,750.00
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Piedmont 5 88 (VN) HK$3,695.00
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Vinous (88)

The 2018 Barbaresco Currà comes across as light in body, with limited depth and slightly aggressive tannins, all of which are the result of an extremely challenging growing season. The aromatics and overall energy are enticing in the 2018, a wine that is likely to offer its best drinking over the next handful of years.
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Piedmont 5 96 (WA) HK$5,423.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

The Bruno Rocca 2021 Barbaresco Currà has a savory side with a uniquely ferrous or rusty signature. It accompanies elegant fruit, black cherry and wild plum. This is a delicate wine, expertly made, that reveals a combination of firmness and tension on the long finish. This 3,000-bottle release comes from a vineyard site celebrated for is southwest exposures and clay limestone soils mixed with sandstone. At 40 years old, the vines are getting up there in complexity.
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Piedmont 5 96+ (WA) HK$2,600.00
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Wine Advocate (96+)

Packaged with the black label, the Bruno Rocca 2013 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide pours from the bottle with a medium garnet color and an elegantly compact appearance. The bouquet has moved away from primary intensity to embrace some beautiful tertiary definition; however, it appears lively and bright nonetheless. This special bottling (made with a selection of the estate's best fruit) shows lots of the proverbial red fruit energy (as opposed to dark fruit) that is so specific to Nebbiolo. Maria Adelaide undergoes a more drawn out oak regime with 18 months in barrique followed by another 12 months in oak casks. A mere 3,000 bottles exist.
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Piedmont 5 95 (VN) HK$4,495.00
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Vinous (95)

The 2019 Barbaresco Rabajà is quite closed at this stage. There is plenty of energy and drive, but the mid-palate is quite shy. A wine of reserve, the 2019 is going to need time to flesh out. There is plenty to look forward to.
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Piedmont 5 95 (WA) HK$4,750.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

Bruno Rocca's 2020 Barbaresco Rabajà is a wine of clarity and definition. This special vineyard site is always distinguished by the clean sharpness of its fruit. Red and blue fruits cede to etched notes of crushed stone and toasted spice. These aromas engage in a delicate dance in a manner only the Nebbiolo grape can achieve. The tannins are polished and firm but also more approachable in this vintage. Production is 6,000 bottles.
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Piedmont 30 97 (WA) HK$5,215.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

Always a crowd-pleaser, the Bruno Rocca 2021 Barbaresco Rabajà is especially defined by its mineral nuances that are chalky, powdery and refined. This wine wears that mineral mantel like a champion, and I can't say that many Nebbiolos pull it off as well as this. The Rabajà also shows expertly worked tannins that are glossy, polished and firm. This site sits at 250 to 300 meters in elevation on tuffaceous clay and limestone soils. The vines are 55 years old (and 6,000 bottles were made).
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Piedmont 1 - HK$12,745.00
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Piedmont 1 95 (VN) HK$3,345.00
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Vinous (95)

The 2012 Barbaresco Riserva Currà is a real knockout. Intense, sweet and beautifully perfumed, the 2012 offers a super-classic expression of this Neive vineyard. Twenty four months in oak have helped soften some of the angular contours the 2012 had when it was younger. Hints of orange peel, white pepper, dried herbs and cherries linger on the exotic, beguiling finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. The 2012 spent 22 months in cask. To be released in 2017.
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Piedmont 3 92 (VN) HK$2,335.00
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Vinous (92)

La Ca' Nova's 2016 Barbaresco is a jewel of a wine. Powerful and yet wonderfully translucent, the straight Barbaresco expresses everything that makes Nebbiolo so special. Sweet dark cherry, pine, menthol, licorice and spice are all finely knit, but it is the wine's energy and overall harmony that stand out most. This gorgeous, classically built Barbaresco has so much to offer.
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Piedmont 30 91 (VN) HK$1,545.00
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Vinous (91)

The 2020 Barbaresco is a relatively soft, open-knit wine. Sweet macerated cherry, kirsch, mint and orange peel open first, with effusive floral and spice notes that grace the finish. Medium in body, with relatively soft contours for a young Barbaresco, the 2020 will drink well right out of the gate.
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Piedmont 1 - HK$1,660.00
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Descend into the complex and rich world of Italian red wine with the Ca' Nova Barbaresco 2021. Made from the noble Nebbiolo grape, this Barbaresco is created by Ca' Nova, a family-owned winery nestled in the revered wine region of Piedmont, Italy. The 2021 vintage stands testament to the winery's commitment to traditional, authentic wine-making processes, ageing the Berbaresco in oak barrels for 24 months. The result is a refined balance between tannins and acidity, offering a full-bodied, elegant experience. The aroma of ripe fruits, wild berry, and an undertone of spice accompany the ruby red hue, building anticipation before your very first sip. On the palate, you can expect a delicate mingling of red fruits, harmoniously juxtaposed with a subtle hint of vanilla derived from the oak ageing. Ideal for pairing with hearty meat dishes, the Ca' Nova Barbaresco 2021 is a sublime journey into the core of Italian viticulture. Ageing potential promises excellent longevity, making this fine wine a must-add to your collection.

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Piedmont 1 94 (WA) HK$2,640.00
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Wine Advocate (94)

The 2011 Barbaresco Albesani is the wine that surprised me most among Cantina del Pino's new releases. It shows an exceptional level of focus and clarity with tight tannins at the back that keep it stitched together tightly. It shows an impressive level of unity and precision. The bouquet is slow to start, but once it does it delivers a steady stream of dark fruit, licorice, balsam herb and crushed mineral. The Albesani cru, with its thick clay soils, evidently had enough underground moisture to avoid heat stress on the vines during the hot summer.
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Piedmont 1 90+ (VN) HK$785.00
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Vinous (90+)

The 2018 Barbaresco Albesani is shut down for a south-facing site that tends to give richer wines. I very much admire the energy, but I am not sure the fruit will ever fully emerge. Crushed rocks, white pepper, mint and chiseled Nebbiolo fruit are nicely delineated. The tannins remain searing in their intensity, though. The Cantina del Pino Barbarescos have a track record of opening beautifully with a few years in bottle. Let's hope that will be the case here. I wouldn't dream of touching a bottle anytime soon.
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Piedmont 1 93 (VN) HK$750.00
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Vinous (93)

As always, the 2011 Barbaresco Ovello is the most linear of the estate's Barbarescos. Then again, that is the key signature of this cool site in Barbaresco. Precise and finely cut, the 2011 offers an intriguing combination of classic Ovello energy allied with the softer, gentler contours of the warm vintage. Still, this is the most reticent of the 2011 Cantina del Pino Barbarescos, and the wine that will need the most time to show the full breadth of its personality.
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