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Piedmont 1 100 (WA) HK$20,195.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

The golden touch, that proverbial Gaja magic, is taken to a whole new level in the 2016 Barolo Sperss. Angelo Gaja has taught his children to follow their own path, and now that the generational switch is well underway at the family estate, we can see that Gaia, Rossana and Giovanni have done him proud. Very proud. This stunning expression from the 2016 vintage (with 16,000 bottles released) represents quite a few celebratory milestones. We are now in the fifth generation to protect the Gaja legacy in an unbroken family chain that has endured since 1859. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo, and since the 2013 vintage, it is part of the Barolo DOCG appellation. Winemaking has been tweaked to embrace a more elegant, ethereal and streamlined personality, instead of the bigger extraction we saw in the past. This upgraded identity is distinctly evident in this newest release of Sperss. Starting with appearance, the wine is luminous and bright with shiny ruby and garnet gemstone. Its aromatic reach is three-dimensional with width, height and depth. Delicate berry tones cede to pressed lilac, anise, sandalwood and cardamom spice. I double decanted and left the bottle open for a few hours before my tasting. The results are tight and gentle, and the wine shows beautiful vertical lift and intensity. To achieve this much power without the excess fruit weight is really quite an accomplishment. This is the magic of Nebbiolo, and the magic of Gaja.
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Piedmont 1 98+ (JD) HK$12,915.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

From the estate’s property in Serralunga d’Alba, the 2017 Barolo Sperss is fresh with pine, perfectly ripe cherry, leather, and aniseed. It has classic Serralunga structure without being imposing, with ripe up-front fruit of dried raspberry as well as tea leaf, and refreshing acidity on the finish. It is layered with depth, but is remarkably drinkable now. This is a beautiful wine to finish out the Gaja lineup. Drink 2022-2042.
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Piedmont 2 98 (KO) HK$5,635.00
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Kerin O'Keefe (98)

Aromas of rose, violet, red woodland berry and star anise mingle with whiffs of camphor and new leather on this fragrant, gorgeous Barolo. Majestic and supremely elegant, it delivers juicy raspberry compote, baking spice and licorice alongside supple, polished tannins. Hints of crushed mint add depth to the close. It’s already accessible but will age well for years. Drink through 2033.
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Piedmont 4 99 (JD) HK$8,190.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2019 Barolo Sperss is rich with dark mineral earth, black cherry, and Earl Grey tea. Long and mouthwatering, it has a powerful structure while retaining finesse. It is fantastically balanced, with gripping tannins, fresh acidity, and notes of forested earth and ripe red berries. A wine for the long haul, this is another great and noble wine to drink over the coming three decades.
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Piedmont 1 99 (JD) HK$3,285.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2019 Barolo Sperss is rich with dark mineral earth, black cherry, and Earl Grey tea. Long and mouthwatering, it has a powerful structure while retaining finesse. It is fantastically balanced, with gripping tannins, fresh acidity, and notes of forested earth and ripe red berries. A wine for the long haul, this is another great and noble wine to drink over the coming three decades.
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Piedmont 1 98 (JD) HK$17,505.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98)

The 2020 Barolo Sperss is a bright red color and reveals an incredibly floral profile of rose petals and ripe strawberries. Aromatically light on its feet, with a joyous feel, on the palate the structure is more focused and compact, with mineral undertones that weave through with more a defined nature. It needs more time, but this is a fantastic red to drink over the coming 30 years.
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Campania 1 97+ (WA) HK$825.00
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Wine Advocate (97+)

I hope one day to have another chance to taste a vertical of Roccamonfina Terra di Lavoro because I have a strong feeling the 2010 will occupy a place among the very finest vintages produced on this tiny vineyard on the slopes of the Roccamonfina volcano. An exotic melange of tar, smoke, graphite, blackberry jam and savory herbs explode from the glass. The 2010 is intense and full-bodied, yet also incredibly elegant. A big, breathtaking wine, the 2010 continues to build all the way through to a deeply resonant, expressive finish. I would choose to leave this uttterly beguiling Campanian red alone for the better part of a decade, but readers are going to have a very hard time excercising that patience. This is a fabulous effort from proprietors Arturo and Dora Celentano, and their long-time winemaker Riccardo Cotarella. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.
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Campania 1 97+ (WA) HK$2,110.00
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Wine Advocate (97+)

I hope one day to have another chance to taste a vertical of Roccamonfina Terra di Lavoro because I have a strong feeling the 2010 will occupy a place among the very finest vintages produced on this tiny vineyard on the slopes of the Roccamonfina volcano. An exotic melange of tar, smoke, graphite, blackberry jam and savory herbs explode from the glass. The 2010 is intense and full-bodied, yet also incredibly elegant. A big, breathtaking wine, the 2010 continues to build all the way through to a deeply resonant, expressive finish. I would choose to leave this uttterly beguiling Campanian red alone for the better part of a decade, but readers are going to have a very hard time excercising that patience. This is a fabulous effort from proprietors Arturo and Dora Celentano, and their long-time winemaker Riccardo Cotarella. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.
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Campania 1 97 (JS) HK$805.00
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James Suckling (97)

Complex aromas of blackberry, stones, cracked black pepper and tar. Full body with soft, round tannins and a juicy, fruity finish. Soulful and refined from this estate. This is a magical wine from Southern Italy.
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Campania 1 96 (JS) HK$740.00
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James Suckling (96)

A powerful yet balanced red with glorious dark fruits, sweet tobacco, dark mushroom and flowers. Full body, chewy and rich tannins and a long and powerful finish. Drink in 2019 but already a star.
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Campania 1 96 (JS) HK$2,760.00
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James Suckling (96)

A powerful yet balanced red with glorious dark fruits, sweet tobacco, dark mushroom and flowers. Full body, chewy and rich tannins and a long and powerful finish. Drink in 2019 but already a star.
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Campania 1 95 (WA) HK$2,585.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

Cabernet Sauvignon is not in the blend, but the aromas in the 2016 Terra di Lavoro are very similar to what you would get with that grape, with bright notes of green pepper corn with blackberry and exotic spice. The declared blend is 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso. This is a balanced vintage with lots of depth, precision and density. This is a beautifully made wine. For sure, I am not the first to say that the wine is more characteristic of a house style, a Bordeaux-inspired house style, rather than a territorial expression of Campania. In truth, I'd say that this wine has feet in both those words. I recommend waiting at least five more years before drinking this vintage. Some 30,000 bottles were made.
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Piedmont 1 - HK$1,165.00
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Made entirely from the Nebbiolo bio-type known as Prünent, this mono-varietal from Garrone shows how beautifully the vine in question has become acclimated to the precipitous slopes and lofty altitudes of the Alpine foothills and valleys. Racy, firm and structured, yet ineffably inviting courtesy of a generous vintage; which is more and more becoming the rule as wine regions around the world heat up. This is world-class nebbiolo on par with many a top menzione in Barolo or Barbaresco with just as long of a life ahead of it.
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Piedmont 1 - HK$3,760.00
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Piedmont 1 91 (WA) HK$3,590.00
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Wine Advocate (91)

A tribute to local tradition, the 2014 Barolo Albe represents an assembly of fruit from various vineyard plots throughout the area. Winemaking is classic in approach with a 25-day maceration period and aging in large Slavonian oak casks. This vintage shows silky, fine lines and a more accessible approach for near and medium-term drinking. I would recommend a few more years of bottle aging, however, to allow the wine the time to grow in texture and mouthfeel.
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Piedmont 8 91 (WA) HK$1,690.00
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Wine Advocate (91)

A tribute to local tradition, the 2014 Barolo Albe represents an assembly of fruit from various vineyard plots throughout the area. Winemaking is classic in approach with a 25-day maceration period and aging in large Slavonian oak casks. This vintage shows silky, fine lines and a more accessible approach for near and medium-term drinking. I would recommend a few more years of bottle aging, however, to allow the wine the time to grow in texture and mouthfeel.
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Piedmont 3 94 (WS) HK$3,800.00
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Wine Spectator (94)

Elegant and expressive, this red evokes cherry, raspberry and floral notes, aligned to a refined structure. This is balanced and leaves an aftertaste of fruit, tobacco and iron. Best from 2023 through 2043. 3,300 cases made.
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Piedmont 8 94 (WS) HK$2,135.00
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Wine Spectator (94)

Elegant and expressive, this red evokes cherry, raspberry and floral notes, aligned to a refined structure. This is balanced and leaves an aftertaste of fruit, tobacco and iron. Best from 2023 through 2043. 3,300 cases made.
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Piedmont 4 93 (WE) HK$4,200.00
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Wine Enthusiast (93)

Red berry, rose and camphor aromas waft out of the glass. Tangy and delicious, the smooth, full-bodied palate doles out ripe Marasca cherry, fleshy raspberry and hints of ground baking spice framed in taut, polished tannins. It's already accessible but also has good midterm aging potential.
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Italy has gone from strength to strength, with standards of winemaking improving all the time and more indigenous varietals than ever before reaching foreign markets. Every single region is a treasure trove of undiscovered gems worth exploring, while the more classic wines like Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino have more than caught up in quality with their French counterparts without catching up in price. A dizzying array of style and a natural affinity with food means there is really no need to look any further no matter the occasion.
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