Wines from the Week | 28th June - 4th July 2021
Truly a week full of wonderful offers and new releases, here are our top picks for wine investors, collectors and drinkers.
Our Recommendations
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion 2020 | Outscoring most second wines from the First Growths yet available at a fraction of the cost. Our top recommendation of the week
The second wine of La Mission Haut-Brion, La Chapelle 2020 is yet another stellar EP release. Earning an impressive 92-94 points from the Wine Advocate and a highest-ever 94 points from Jane Anson, it could potentially be this cuvée’s greatest ever vintage. Anson admires the “confidence and sheer easy appeal” that oozes out of La Chapelle 2020, emphasising that the second wine “rivals plenty of first wines in this vintage”. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) cites the exceptional balance of La Chapelle 2020, finding that to be extremely impressive and calling it “an especially fine La Chappelle”.
Krug Grande Cuvée 169th Édition NV | This is no ordinary NV Champagne. Composed of 146 wines across 11 vintages, an uncommon score of 18.5/20 from Jancis Robinson MW should pique every buyer’s interest
Krug Grande Cuvée is no ordinary NV Champagne, with no other Maison blends as many wines, from as many years as Krug
Édition 169 is an astonishing blend of 146 wines across 11 years constituting the final wine, of which 2013 is the lead and 2000 the eldest. Hailed as “a Chardonnay year par excellence” by Michael Edwards (Decanter), Édition 169 reflects the exceptional harvest from 2013.
Expressing the fullness and elegance of 2013, Édition 169 is a “sleek and fresh and truly spring-like" Champagne, according to Jancis Robinson MW who awards the wine 18.5/20 points. Beguilingly complex as all the greatest Krug Champagnes are, 169 cannot help but “play the intellectual card” and gives drinkers reason to pause and contemplate.
Petrolo Galatrona 2016 | A worthy rival to the likes of Pétrus, Le Pin and Masseto, this is an iconic Merlot-based Super Tuscan representing some of the best value in Italy
Galatrona is the prestige cuvée from Petrolo. The undisputed king of these hills, this wine is sourced from a small vineyard of the same name. Planted in the 1980s with low-yielding Bordeaux clone Merlot vines, the vineyard’s soil is an archetypal composition of deeply rich clay with veins of schist, marl and sandstone imbuing stunning minerality to the effortlessly generous and elegant fruit. Inspired by the great producers of Pomerol, Galatrona has established itself as a worthy rival to the likes of Pétrus, Le Pin and Masseto.
In 2016, a legendary vintage for many regions, Petrolo produced a truly profound expression of Merlot in Galatrona. “A masterpiece to behold” in the words of Monica Larner (Wine Advocate), the 2016 unfurls with unfathomably layered and generous notes of gorgeous dark fruit, chocolate and hauntingly perfumed violets as well as wilted rose. As powerful and deceptively integrated as any world-class Merlot, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) was deeply impressed by the wine’s “serious fruit intensity and energy”, whilst providing collectors with the stern warning that patience should be exercised in respect for Galatrona’s structure, stating that “opening a bottle now is a crime”.
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Wines from the Week | 28th June - 4th July 2021
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Rioja | 1 | 94 (JS) | HK$1,700.00 | |||||
James Suckling (94)Very complex aromas of ripe berries, sultanas, cedar and hints of chocolate. Full-bodied with round, ripe tannins that are layered and fresh. A delicious combination of mature fruit and mahogany add to the complexity of the wine. Holding on really nicely. Drink or hold. |
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Tuscany | 1 | 97 (WA) | HK$4,130.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)I prefer this wine to Fèlsina's top-shelf Fontalloro. The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is irresistibly angular and tight, opening a profound view onto what makes Sangiovese so expressive and unique, especially when planted in the right territories. The bouquet is savory and almost sanguine with iron ore, rusty nail and baked clay. But there's plenty of fruit as well, in the form of wild berry and black cherry, that adds to the dimension and dynamic freshness of the mouthfeel. The 2018 vintage saw a few moments of heat during the summer, but the Colonia vineyard is protected by forests and cooler altitudes. Give this wine time to soften in the bottle. |
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Tuscany | 1 | 97 (VN) | HK$2,190.00 | |||||
Vinous (97)The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is an absolutely stunning wine. The archetype of Rancia in the past has been of a big, potent Chianti Classico but in 2018, Rancia is a wine of mind-blowing elegance and finesse. Silky, perfumed and indescribably finessed, the 2018 dazzles from start to finish. It's a magical wine in every way. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (JS) | HK$9,525.00 | |||||
James Suckling (100)A mesmerizing nose here with flowers such as violets and red roses, then shows cherries and currants with some mineral and black truffles. Full-bodied yet so refined and harmonized with ultra-fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Flavors of perfectly ripened fruit (al dente) with a hazelnut character that comes from the seeds. Incredibly transparent young red. Breathtaking. 37% merlot, 32% cabernet franc and 31% cabernet sauvignon. Drink after 2028 and onwards. Magnificent. |
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Central Valley | 1 | 92 (WA) | HK$1,490.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92)There's more and more information on the bottle of the wines, and the 2020 Old Vine Pale now mentions rosé(!) Truquilemu Vineyard Half a hectare and DO Empedrado, an appellation in Maule. All of their labels are so very informative, fun and amusing, and reading them makes you want to drink the wine and even know and support his peasant farmers. And on this 2020, it says Cariñena Monastrell instead of the Cariñena Mataró from previous vintages. But what he told me was even better, "The world has grown up, and the proper rosé category now includes some wonderful darker rosés—including this one, exported to 10 countries. We still think it’s best described: 'first glass of a long lunch' because it makes one hungry like few wines can." Enough said! 3,812 bottles. |
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Tuscany | 2 | 96 (JS) | HK$3,910.00 | |||||
James Suckling (96)A full-bodied Brunello with lots of plums and cherries, as well as orange-peel character. It’s creamy and round-textured. Soft and chewy tannins. Shows the warmth and ripeness of the 2017 vintage. Drink after 2023. |
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Piedmont | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$2,350.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2017 Barolo Gramolere is broad and ample, yet retains the gracious style that is typical of the Manzone Barolos these days. The fruit profile is a bit darker, though, and there is a bit more of an oak imprint. Black cherry, new leather, menthol and spice all meld together effortlessly as the 2017 blossoms with a touch of aeration. |
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South Australia | 2 | 96+ (WA) | HK$3,205.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96+)The 2019 Amon Ra Shiraz is 100% Shiraz and 100% from the 2019 vintage, as Ben Glaetzer felt it—unlike many previous vintages—didn't need to be freshened with a small proportion of younger wine. From old vines in the Ebenezer district of the northern Barossa Valley, it offers classic notes of blackberries and spice, framed by hints of cedar and vanilla (it's aged in 100% new oak hogsheads, mostly French). It's full-bodied yet crisp, supple but tight and really long. Offering lovely dark fruit, hints of espresso and black olive, it finishes mouthwatering and firm. Give it some time in the cellar and drink it from 2025 – 2040. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 96 (GS) | HK$2,240.00 | |||||
Greg Sherwood MW (96)Deep, dark and broody, this wine speaks with all the authority and confidence of a 5 star block buster vintage. Brimming with black menthol cassis, boiled black berry sweets, black cherry and tight grained cedar spice, this wine wears a super hero gown of graphite and stony minerality and whispers quality from the moment it hits the glass. Tight, focused and impressively compact, there is a seamless saline black currant balance with linear polished marble tannins and a super intense concentration. This is the culmination of years of winemaking refinement and is without doubt the finest red wine produced to date at the Glenelly Estate revealing the true terroir quality potential of these groomed, premium Stellenbosch vineyards. Drink from Release with decanting and over the next 20+ years. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 94-95 (JS) | HK$2,240.00 | |||||
James Suckling (94-95)Very focused and poised with blackberry, blackcurrant and graphite character. It’s full-to medium-bodied with racy tannins and a long, dynamic finish. Will be interesting to see if 2020 is better than 2019. |
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Rhone | 2 | 99 (JD) | HK$3,155.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (99)The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Vieilles Vignes is based on 45% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre, with the balance Syrah, all destemmed and raised in 55% new French oak. Gorgeous cassis, violet, graphite, fruitcake, and peppery herbs define this brilliant effort, and it's full-bodied, with a pure, seamless texture, wonderful tannins, and one heck of a great finish. This magical 2019 is going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age (it's brilliant even today) yet keep for 20 years or more. Châteauneuf du Pape lovers need to have this in their cellar! |
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South Australia | 2 | 98 (JS) | HK$2,990.00 | |||||
James Suckling (98)An exceptional vintage for this wine, with such intense aromas of lime and sweet flowers, as well as hints of white nectarine and wet stone in the background. The palate has density and sleekly refined shape that drives so long. Lime juice throughout, and some almost pithy density builds into the finish, supported by driving acidity. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2026 and a number of years after that. Screw cap. |
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Rhone | 1 | 99 (JD) | HK$3,420.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (99)Just about pure perfection and one of the finest Condrieu to pass my lips, the 2020 Condrieu La Doriane offers an insane bouquet of grilled pineapple, charcoal, crushed stone, acacia flowers, and white peach. It picks up an incredibly sense of salinity on the palate and is full-bodied, has blockbuster concentration, remarkable purity and focus, and a great finish. I like this beast/beauty today, but it will keep for a decade. |
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Rhone | 1 | 97 (JD) | HK$4,095.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (97)Not scheduled to be on the market until November of 2023, the 2018 Côte Rôtie Chateau D'Ampuis is nevertheless a remarkable Côte Rôtie that readers will love to have in the cellar. Sporting a deep ruby/purple hue as well as awesome Côte Rôtie notes of smoked game, violets, acacia flowers, and both red and black fruits, this beauty is medium to full-bodied, has polished, seamless tannins, and a layered, perfectly balanced mouthfeel. It shows the softer style of the vintage (especially compared to the more structured, tannic 2019) and already offers pleasure, but this will easily evolve for at least two decades. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$8,890.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)Built for the long haul, the 2018 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a majestic, noble white that could only come from this incredible, south-facing hillside in Hermitage. Revealing a light gold hue as well as notes of quince, honeyed minerality, toasted spices, orange marmalade, and spring flowers, this deep, rich, and full-bodied white has absorbed just about every trace of its oak élevage and has a concentrated, rich, yet focused and lengthy style. This cuvée had a more oaky, opulent style in the past, but today it comes across as a much more pure, elegant wine while not giving an inch with regard to density, texture, and concentration. As with just about every top Hermitage Blanc today, this offers plenty of immediate pleasure with its pure, fresh, mineral-laced style. Don't discount how much pleasure these wines can offer in their youth and always ignore the "always too young" crowd. This 2018 is going to evolve gracefully and drink brilliantly for 5-7 years, then (maybe) go into a closed, almost oxidative stage, only to emerge after 5-7 years and evolve for decades. |
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California | 1 | 98 (JD) | HK$6,310.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (98)The 2018 Pinot Noir Far Coast Vineyard comes from a site not far from the Pacific Ocean, in the Sonoma Coast AVA, and it's one of the bigger, richer wines in the lineup in 2018. Deeper ruby-hued, with a stunning nose of ripe mulberries, Bing cherries, candied strawberries, spring flowers, and orange blossom, this is a spicy, medium to full-bodied, impressively concentrated Pinot Noir. Despite being from a cooler vineyard, it brings plenty of richness and sexy fruit, with a certain exotic character. I've always loved this cuvée (although I've always thought the Chardonnay was slightly more successful), but this might be the finest vintage I've tasted to date. Count me impressed. It's going to have 10-15 years of prime drinking. It's one of the finest Pinot Noirs in this report. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 93 (JS) | HK$1,120.00 | |||||
James Suckling (93)The reductive twist holds red and purple fruit, in fresh and slightly exotic mode, with a plum-compote edge. The palate delivers a linear shape with good persistence and focus on the finish. A blend of 65 per cent merlot and 35 per cent cabernet franc. Try from 2022. |
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Champagne | 6 | 97+ (WA) | HK$3,130.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97+)The 2013 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne is the latest in a series of superb releases from Giraud. Unwinding in the glass with notes of buttered toast, crisp yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, warm spices and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, deep and vinous, with a layered core of concentrated fruit, incisive acids and an elegant pearly mousse. Long and penetrating, it's finer-boned than its richer, more muscular 2012 predecessor; but like that more structured wine, it will reward bottle age. |
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Champagne | 1 | 97 (VN) | HK$7,970.00 | |||||
Vinous (97)The MV 16 is bright, fresh and airy and yet has the natural richness of Aÿ that Giraud fans have come to expect. Apricot, tangerine oil, nutmeg, cinnamon, chamomile and dried flowers all meld together in a creamy, ample Champagne that hits all the right notes. A Champagne of towering presence, the MV 16 is classy, understated and undeniably alluring. It is also one of the most impressive Champagnes I have ever tasted from Claude Giraud. Even in the early going, the 70% new oak is so well-integrated. This set of new releases is full of highlights, but the MV 16 is especially fine. Don't miss it! Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: December 11, 2020. |
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Veneto | 1 | 96 (JS) | HK$1,655.00 | |||||
James Suckling (96)The nose is quite reserved, showing some melon, pear and lavender. Then, on the palate, the expansion starts on a base of silky almond cream and builds up slowly and steadily through the long, long finish. Aftertaste of lemon cream. Never ebullient, but medium-bodied, layered and silky, this is quiet refinement flexing its muscles. Total balance. Beautifully done. All in place. Best ever. Enjoy now or hold. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-93 (IB) | HK$1,860.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (90-93)5 stars. Pale to mid lemon yellow. No sign of too much wood here from Schneckenleitner barrels, much crisper with great tension behind and complex citrus fruit notes behind. Long and fine. Excellent. Marries freshness and density. Tasted: November 2021 |
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Rhone | 1 | 92 (VN) | HK$2,930.00 | |||||
Vinous (92)Deep ruby. A mineral- and smoke-tinged bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits and licorice; a floral nuance builds as the wine opens with air. Shows very good energy and spicy lift to its juicy boysenberry and bitter cherry flavors, which are complemented by suggestions of allspice, smoked meat and candied licorice. Finishes long and taut, with repeating cherry notes, chewy tannic grip and a jolt of spicy cracked pepper. |
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Rhone | 1 | 94 (JD) | HK$1,725.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (94)Moving to the three Cornas releases, the 2018 Cornas is brilliant and certainly in the same ballpark as the 2016 and 2017. Lots of red and blue fruits, smoked earth, graphite, iron, violets, and gamey notes define this full-bodied Cornas. With ample tannins, fabulous balance, and a big finish, it's going to need 4-5 years of bottle age at a minimum yet should drink fabulously well over the following 15 years. |
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California | 1 | 99 (JS) | HK$10,600.00 | |||||
James Suckling (99)Blackberry and black chocolate with mint, conifer and clove. Sweet tobacco, violets and flowers, too. Some graphite. Cool and complex. Full-bodied with ultra fine, dusty tannins and a wonderful, extremely long finish. Savory and refined. A classic-styled 2018. This needs time, but is so approachable and gorgeous. One of the best Insignias ever. Alive and changing all the time. 40% Stags Leap AVA. 87% cabernet sauvignon, 8% petit verdot, 3% malbec and 2% cabernet franc. Leave this for five or six years, but so wonderful now. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 96 (GS) | HK$2,295.00 | |||||
Greg Sherwood MW (96)This certainly is a deep, broody exotic expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that is more reminiscent of a cool vintage Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon than anything from Bordeaux or the Cape. Opened and tasted over 4 to 5 hours, the wine hits its stride surprisingly quickly with plenty of perfumed purple flowers, violets, bruleed black berries, baked blueberry crumble, crème de cassis and a pleasing note of mocha and vanilla pod spice. Initial notes of kelp and maritime seashore salinity quickly give way to a more weighty, sensual melange of black berry compote nuances and hints of cherry kirsch liquor. While this wine certainly shows all the deft elegance and finesse we associate with the 2017 vintage, it also displays a certain extra gravitas, power and weight of fruit concentration combined with great poise, density and a seamlessly textured mineral graphite finish. This is a dark horse that will drink well on release and age deceptively well for 20+ years. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$1,895.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The maiden 2015 Amphitheatre has an intense bouquet of dark cherries, star anise, camphor and wild heather scents, all well defined and expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fleshy ripe red fruit laced with white pepper and sage, fanning out wonderfully toward the finish. This is a beautiful maiden release, exuding breeding and class, from Alex Starey at Keermont. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 94 (TA) | HK$1,725.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (94)This is one of two current releases of Terrasse, produced from an assemblage of Chenin Blanc and 39% Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Wax and honeysuckle aromas progress into a tangy, focused, herbal palate, with some stony reduction and a textured finish. 2021-26 |
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Cape South Coast | 2 | 97 (DC) | HK$3,535.00 | |||||
Decanter (97)This has a gorgeous, lifted nose that combines perfumed fruit and oak spice to heady effect. Soft, plush and fresh on the palate, with pinpoint raspberry acidity and lingering rose perfume. It’s matured in barriques and 500-litre French oak barrels, half new, the other half recently used – the oak plays an integral part and it’s applied with great skill. Displaying exceptional tannic finesse, this is a thrilling and emotive Syrah. |
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Bordeaux | 15 | 97 (DC) | HK$9,080.00 | |||||
Decanter (97)Fragrant redcurrant and cranberry. Milk chocolate, vanilla, creamy, fruity and fresh with cherry and plum fruit. Cool and crisp, so much freshness straight away and so sleek, the weight is there in the density of the ripe fruit but this keeps a very slick frame. Lovely movement and energy, softly vibrant but also quite rich - a spectrum of cranberry and blackcurrant and plum fruit gives lots of different expressions with liquorice and tobacco on the finish. Chalky and stony, a lovely mineral grip too. Feels sophisticated, with balance, nothing sticks out, suave and elegant. I love it’s gentle expression though, doesn’t shout but this will be so great to drink and enjoy. I love it. Everything seems to be balanced delicately on a tightrope, with tenderness, density and tension. Really great and more finessed than some Pomerols. 3.8pH. Ageing 8% amphora, 50% new oak, 15% foudre, the rest used barrels. 42hl/ha yield. Green harvests were performed to drop 15-20% of the potential yield, given the team 'had never seen so many grapes on the vines'. |
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Bordeaux | 23 | 97 (DC) | HK$9,030.00 | |||||
Decanter (97)Fragrant redcurrant and cranberry. Milk chocolate, vanilla, creamy, fruity and fresh with cherry and plum fruit. Cool and crisp, so much freshness straight away and so sleek, the weight is there in the density of the ripe fruit but this keeps a very slick frame. Lovely movement and energy, softly vibrant but also quite rich - a spectrum of cranberry and blackcurrant and plum fruit gives lots of different expressions with liquorice and tobacco on the finish. Chalky and stony, a lovely mineral grip too. Feels sophisticated, with balance, nothing sticks out, suave and elegant. I love it’s gentle expression though, doesn’t shout but this will be so great to drink and enjoy. I love it. Everything seems to be balanced delicately on a tightrope, with tenderness, density and tension. Really great and more finessed than some Pomerols. 3.8pH. Ageing 8% amphora, 50% new oak, 15% foudre, the rest used barrels. 42hl/ha yield. Green harvests were performed to drop 15-20% of the potential yield, given the team 'had never seen so many grapes on the vines'. |
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