Wines from the Week | 28th June - 4th July 2021
Truly a week full of wonderful offers and new releases, here are our top picks for wine investors, collectors and drinkers.
Our Recommendations
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion 2020 | Outscoring most second wines from the First Growths yet available at a fraction of the cost. Our top recommendation of the week
The second wine of La Mission Haut-Brion, La Chapelle 2020 is yet another stellar EP release. Earning an impressive 92-94 points from the Wine Advocate and a highest-ever 94 points from Jane Anson, it could potentially be this cuvée’s greatest ever vintage. Anson admires the “confidence and sheer easy appeal” that oozes out of La Chapelle 2020, emphasising that the second wine “rivals plenty of first wines in this vintage”. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) cites the exceptional balance of La Chapelle 2020, finding that to be extremely impressive and calling it “an especially fine La Chappelle”.
Krug Grande Cuvée 169th Édition NV | This is no ordinary NV Champagne. Composed of 146 wines across 11 vintages, an uncommon score of 18.5/20 from Jancis Robinson MW should pique every buyer’s interest
Krug Grande Cuvée is no ordinary NV Champagne, with no other Maison blends as many wines, from as many years as Krug
Édition 169 is an astonishing blend of 146 wines across 11 years constituting the final wine, of which 2013 is the lead and 2000 the eldest. Hailed as “a Chardonnay year par excellence” by Michael Edwards (Decanter), Édition 169 reflects the exceptional harvest from 2013.
Expressing the fullness and elegance of 2013, Édition 169 is a “sleek and fresh and truly spring-like" Champagne, according to Jancis Robinson MW who awards the wine 18.5/20 points. Beguilingly complex as all the greatest Krug Champagnes are, 169 cannot help but “play the intellectual card” and gives drinkers reason to pause and contemplate.
Petrolo Galatrona 2016 | A worthy rival to the likes of Pétrus, Le Pin and Masseto, this is an iconic Merlot-based Super Tuscan representing some of the best value in Italy
Galatrona is the prestige cuvée from Petrolo. The undisputed king of these hills, this wine is sourced from a small vineyard of the same name. Planted in the 1980s with low-yielding Bordeaux clone Merlot vines, the vineyard’s soil is an archetypal composition of deeply rich clay with veins of schist, marl and sandstone imbuing stunning minerality to the effortlessly generous and elegant fruit. Inspired by the great producers of Pomerol, Galatrona has established itself as a worthy rival to the likes of Pétrus, Le Pin and Masseto.
In 2016, a legendary vintage for many regions, Petrolo produced a truly profound expression of Merlot in Galatrona. “A masterpiece to behold” in the words of Monica Larner (Wine Advocate), the 2016 unfurls with unfathomably layered and generous notes of gorgeous dark fruit, chocolate and hauntingly perfumed violets as well as wilted rose. As powerful and deceptively integrated as any world-class Merlot, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) was deeply impressed by the wine’s “serious fruit intensity and energy”, whilst providing collectors with the stern warning that patience should be exercised in respect for Galatrona’s structure, stating that “opening a bottle now is a crime”.
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Wines from the Week | 28th June - 4th July 2021
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (WCI) | HK$7,460.00 | |||||
The Wine Cellar Insider (100)Incredible in every sense of the word, this has everything you could want in a Pauillac and from Mouton Rothschild. Just as good, but different in style from the opulence found in the 2009, here you find incredible levels of intensity, density, richness, vibrancy and lift. The wall of fruit is perfectly ripe, expressing its purity along with crushed rocks, flowers, spice box, lead pencil, currants, cassis, blackberries, and Cuban cigars. The racy finish is seamless and crosses the 60-second mark with ease. This is not a wine for today. This is for the future. Your children can enjoy it at maturity. |
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Coastal Region | 2 | 96 (TA) | HK$3,910.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)"The hardest wine to make," says Andrea Mullineux of this Chenin Blanc from a nutrition-poor vineyard on the Kasteelbeg. But the effort is certainly worth it. Showing aromas of white flowers and gunflint, it has amazing focus, salinity and depth with linear acidity and notes of green apple, kitchen spices and umami. |
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Coastal Region | 1 | 97 (TA) | HK$4,350.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (97)My pick of the three top Mullineux Syrahs in 2018, this world-class red is the most perfumed and alluring of the trio right now. Combining fruit from the Kasteelberg and Roundstone, this has violet and lavender aromas, some sap and grip from 100% whole bunches, incredible focus and grip and a plush, seductive mid palate. |
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Marlborough | 2 | 96 (DC) | HK$1,355.00 | |||||
Decanter (96)Delicate, pure and enticing bouquet of citrus blossoms, apple, minerals, autolysis notes and gentle wood spice suggestions. Equally layered and long on the palate, where the flavours mirror the nose and develop more complexity as the wine relaxes in the glass. Pure fruited with indulgent textures and flavours. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (BH) | HK$4,650.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-95)Very ripe aromas of cassis, black berry liqueur, violet and anise precede the equally broad-shouldered flavors that also coat the palate with dry extract on the powerful, hugely long and very serious finish that is shaped by a markedly firm tannic spine. This is a buy and forget you own it wine as I would suggest not touching a bottle for at least 10 years. With that said, this is most impressive. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 94 (JS) | HK$4,240.00 | |||||
James Suckling (94)A red with very deep and intense fruit character, yet rich tannins to back it all up. Full-bodied, layered and powerful. The second wine of Cos d’Estournel is serious again in 2016. Try from 2025. |
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NA | 1 | - | HK$7,435.00 | |||||
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The 2016 Palmer Historical XIX, a vintage now widely recognised as one of the greatest vintages in modern times in both Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley. Jancis Robinson suggests that 2016 is “the best Bordeaux vintage I will probably ever taste” across her extensive career as a Master of Wine.
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Château Palmer was the pinnacle of success in 2016 achieving four perfect 100-point scores, giving Bordeaux collector’s even more reason than normal to eagerly add this sought-after wine to their collection. This wine offers a rare, unique and fascinating historical insight into the history of Bordeaux. It is a collector’s gem, with around 4,500 bottles made. |
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Rhone | 1 | 18+ (MJ) | HK$2,345.00 | |||||
Matthew Jukes (18+)Yet another beautiful 2020, Thalabert is deep, dark and brooding in this vintage, and it has an almost Italianate liquorice and black-fruited theme underpinning its Syrah characters. This makes it an indulgent treat, and the palate is more velvety and forward than any young Thalabert I have tasted. In addition, it has the stuffing to age well, too. What more could you ask for? |
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Bordeaux | 3 | 100 (VN (AG)) | HK$4,055.00 | |||||
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (100)The 2020 Pavie Macquin is sensational. Rich, dark and explosive, the 2020 balances the natural richness that is such a signature of the estate with a level of energy and vibrancy I have not seen here in the recent past. The result is a towering, imposing Pavie Macquin that hugely delivers. In this vintage, regisseur Nicolas Thienpont did not use the Cabernet Sauvignon, so the blend is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, with the Franc lending aromatic presence, energy and depth. What a total knock out! |
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Galicia | 1 | - | HK$3,130.00 | |||||
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Pazo Senorans Rias Baixas Albarino Seleccion Anada 2012 is the latest released vintage of the wonderful white, and we can rest assured that it is a wine of immense personality. Awarded 98 points from the Peñin Guide, the leading wine magazine in Spain, this sings with fascinating notes of “white fruit, citrus fruit, fine lees, petrol”. It possesses a richly flavourful and elegant palate ending with a lengthy finish.
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Bordeaux | 1 | 95 (JS) | HK$1,955.00 | |||||
James Suckling (95)So aromatic with crushed currants, raspberries and blackberries with hints of graphite and lead pencil. Full-bodied and very tight with beautiful tannins and a long, flavorful finish. The tannins really build at the end of the palate. Try from 2024. |
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South Australia | 1 | 20 (JR) | HK$20,555.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (20)Delivers absolutely everything you want from Grange: the fruit is knee-weakeningly gorgeous, the oak fits in beautifully, and there's endless length that gives a thoughtful, engaging aftertaste. |
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South Australia | 1 | 96 (JS) | HK$920.00 | |||||
James Suckling (96)A very fresh, piercing nose of sliced lemon with plenty of sweet perfume, too. The palate is similarly intense and vibrant with white stone-fruit and lemon flavors, delivered in an impressively intense and balanced mode. Drink or hold. Screw cap. |
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Castilla y Leon | 1 | 94+ (WA) | HK$2,300.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94+)The youngest of the reds I tasted, the 2019 Pícaro del Águila Tinto is their most approachable red and is still serious, vibrant and aromatic with great length and still has good aging potential. They use the grapes from the warmest vineyards they have in the village of La Aguilera, form the northern part closer to La Horra, mostly Tempranillo but with some 5% of other varieties (red and white) interplanted in the old vineyards, fermented together with full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in French oak barrels for 15 months. Like the 2019 Clarete, this is young and tender and has more tension than I expected for a warmer year. It has less oak than previous years (only 10% or 15% new barrels), and the wine feels better balanced and is floral and aromatic. It's medium-bodied with a very fine texture, a pretty wine that drinks very well and doesn't reflect a warm year at all, as it has incredible freshness. A great Pícaro. They produced 69,852 bottles and 850 magnums, a notable increase in volume... while they increase the quality! It was bottled in February 2021. |
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Castilla y Leon | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$2,755.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)The juicy, velvety and aromatic red 2020 Pícaro del Águila Tinto is fine-boned and quite faithfully represents what they want to express with this cuvée; it's very tasty and has some chalkiness (perhaps through less ripeness than in years like 2018) with 14% alcohol and mellow acidity. The nose reveals some Côte-Rôtie-like notes of smoked meat and violets. 2020 delivered a good crop of healthy grapes that produced the finest wine to date for this bottling. This is superb, elegant and powerful, with everything in place (seems to be the signature of 2020) and perfectly integrated oak. 71,382 bottles and 1,979 magnums produced. It was bottled in September 2021. |
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Veneto | 1 | 94 (JS) | HK$1,515.00 | |||||
James Suckling (94)Very ripe Soave here with aromas of dried pineapple, honeycomb, pecan pie, light toffee and a wealth of fresh and dried flowers flitting around the edges. Medium-to full-bodied with a lovely, long palate of fruit syrup and caramel. Seamless, tasty and long. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. |
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Rhone | 1 | 94 (JD) | HK$1,725.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (94)Mostly Grenache yet with 15% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, with 10% Cinsault, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape boasts a vivid purple hue as well as a complex bouquet of red, blue, and black fruits as well as notes of flowers, spice, and peppery garrigue. It actually reminds me of the Cuvée Mon Aïeul with its ripe yet elegant profile. Full-bodied, balanced, and lengthy, it’s going to offer loads of pleasure over the coming 10-15 years. |
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Rhone | 1 | 98+ (JD) | HK$3,705.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (98+)One of the top handful of wines in the vintage, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée De Mon Aïeul is all Grenache, from the different terroirs (one sand, one clay, and one limestone) that was 50% destemmed and aged all in older demi-muids. Reminding me of the 2007 with its incredible perfume of ripe black raspberries, strawberries, flowery incense, peppery and Provençal garrigue, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a round, expansive texture, gorgeous tannins, and a blockbuster of a finish. A wine of incredibly purity, precision, and elegance, yet also with power and opulence, this sensational effort is in need of 3-4 years of bottle age and will keep for two decades. |
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Tuscany | 10 | 96 (VN) | HK$6,115.00 | |||||
Vinous (96)An enticing mix of exotic spice, crushed violets, medicinal black cherries and sweet mint wafts up from the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Lupi e Sirene. Its textures are silky and rich, nicely matched by depths of ripe red and blue berries, plus an enriching hint of almond paste. This stops just short of decadence, as salty minerals and bright acidity add a more savory twang, and fine-grained tannins slowly take hold. While structured, the long, dramatic finale is packed full of dark primary fruits, savory herbs and hints of mocha. I expect the 2016 Riserva Lupi e Sirene to be firing on all cylinders after only a short stay in the cellar. There will be no 2017 due to the drastic loss of fruit in that extremely dry and warm vintage. |
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Tuscany | 1 | 95+ (WA) | HK$2,250.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95+)The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pure and classic expression of the vintage with bright fruit tones, wild cherry, toasted nut, blue flower and forest floor. Whereas the other wines in the Poggio Antico portfolio undergo aging in smaller tonneaux, this wine is aged in large Slavonian casks instead. You taste the lift and brightness of the fruit, and it's all quite lovely. Grapes are sourced across a 13-hectare site at a very high 500 meters in elevation. The name of this area is I Poggi, and the soils here are a bit lighter and rockier with both schistous galestro and limestone alberese. I love the delicate approach here, the intensity of those floral aromas, and the silky nature of the mouthfeel. Some 34,000 bottles will be released in January 2021. This classic Brunello really stands out. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98-99 (JS) | HK$3,800.00 | |||||
James Suckling (98-99)This is integrated, with superb density and beauty, offering blackcurrant, mineral and some bark. Full-bodied, yet so polished and refined. Crushed stone. Lots of expression and texture to this wine. Creamy. Pure and precise. Elegant, yet layered. Slightly plusher than the 2019. Dense, yet agile. Fresh as always. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. 50% new oak 15% old oak and 35% concrete amphorae. |
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Bordeaux | 11 | 98-100 (JA) | HK$3,050.00 | |||||
Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (98-100)A wine to convince you of the quality and ripeness of Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac in this 2023 vintage, showcasing superbly supple tannins, great balance, depth and savoury blue and black fruit character, bitter cocoa bean, freshly cut herbs, black tea, fennel, all vivid and with purity of character. There is density here but it is not overt, with heightened raspberry leaf, peony and violet aromatics. Vinified in the newly-completed section of the cellars, in egg-shaped wooden vats and sunken qveri-style clay vats. 50% new oak for ageing, with 35% amphora and 15% one year old barrels. One of the wines of the vintage. New lighter bottle as of the 2022 around 490g, down from 815g in the past, 30 tonnes of CO2 saved just in terms of production. Harvest September 7, one day earlier than 2022, then slow picking through to October 10, later than many in Pauillac - and normal yields of around 40hl/h. |
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Bordeaux | 7 | 98-100 (JA) | HK$3,870.00 | |||||
Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (98-100)A wine to convince you of the quality and ripeness of Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac in this 2023 vintage, showcasing superbly supple tannins, great balance, depth and savoury blue and black fruit character, bitter cocoa bean, freshly cut herbs, black tea, fennel, all vivid and with purity of character. There is density here but it is not overt, with heightened raspberry leaf, peony and violet aromatics. Vinified in the newly-completed section of the cellars, in egg-shaped wooden vats and sunken qveri-style clay vats. 50% new oak for ageing, with 35% amphora and 15% one year old barrels. One of the wines of the vintage. New lighter bottle as of the 2022 around 490g, down from 815g in the past, 30 tonnes of CO2 saved just in terms of production. Harvest September 7, one day earlier than 2022, then slow picking through to October 10, later than many in Pauillac - and normal yields of around 40hl/h. |
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1 | - | HK$4,445.00 | ||||||
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The collection case contains of one bottle each of:
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1. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Pora 2. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè 3. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 4. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 5. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Asili 6. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà 7. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota 8. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico 9. 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano |
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Piedmont | 2 | 94 (GS) | HK$1,205.00 | |||||
Greg Sherwood MW (94)We all know when Produttori del Barbaresco decide not to bottle all their great nine grower crus, the resulting wines are all blended into the Barbaresco DOCG normale cuvee. 2018 is just such a vintage and sure enough, eager collectors have been waiting for this super charged Nebbiolo release. On initial examination, the wine shows the most pretty, lifted, inviting aromatics of dried rose petals, crushed coriander, tart red cherries, salty blueberries and a seductive red liquorice complexity. On the palate, there is an attractive translucent purity and silky filigree tannins that combine with a suave, lithe, harmonious concentration of red cherry candied fruits, touches of tar, saline cassis, sloe berries and a finish that typifies true, pure classical Nebbiolo fruit. While the seductive allure of the perfumed aromatics currently outpace the slightly backwardness of the palate fruit density and structure, all the signs in the glass point to another extremely fine and supremely attractive Barbaresco release. Drink from 2022 to 2034+. |
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Piedmont | 2 | 92+ (GS) | HK$980.00 | |||||
Greg Sherwood MW (92+)Produttori del Barbaresco makes its Langhe Nebbiolo with declassified Barbaresco fruit (often from parcels on lower slopes) so production volumes are notably reduced in the better vintages when more of the prime fruit finds its way into their delicious village Barbaresco DOCG or indeed one of the classy nine Cru Riservas. This young 2020 Nebbiolo certainly shows great promise with an immediately attractive array of aromatics that boast dark cherry, damson plum, sweet herbs, blood orange and a slight menthol top note. Always wonderfully intense and potent, the palate displays a medium bodied weight of red and black berry fruits, macerated strawberries and sweet cherries with an underlying cool, suave elegance and a fresh acid vitality. The finish is creamy and plush with soft plump tannins, subtle piquant black liquorice notes and a pure, weightless length. Delightfully streamlined and accessible, this 2020 continues a fine run of vintages for Produttori del Barbaresco. Drink from release and over 5 to 8 years. |
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2 | 94 (CE) | HK$1,225.00 | ||||||
Christian Eedes (94)65% Syrah, 13% Grenache, 13% Cinsault and 9% Carignan. The nose is particularly expressive with notes of red and black berries, cured meat, lavender, herbs and pepper while the palate is rich and flavourful but equally not short of freshness – a bit less foursquare than preceding vintages have tended to be. Complex and satisfying. |
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2 | 96 (TA) | HK$1,205.00 | ||||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)The Swartland and Stellenbosch are the twin sources of this consistently outstanding white blend from Donovan Rall, made from a cuvée of Chenin Blanc with 32% Verdelho and a splash of Viognier. Nuanced, understated and focused, with wax, lanolin and aniseed top notes and a palate of citrus, pear and peach skin. Taut and refreshing. |
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Rhone | 1 | 96 (JS) | HK$2,630.00 | |||||
James Suckling (96)Deep, spicy and fragrant, this is a very concentrated and elegant Chateauneuf-du-Pape with remarkably fine tannins and floral delicacy alongside its earthy primacy. Mainly produced from grenache vines planted in 1901 and 1902. From Demeter-certified biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. |
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Oregon | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$2,530.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)Deep red. Powerful aromas of ripe dark berries, cherry cola and pungent flowers are complemented by woodsmoke and mocha nuances. Juicy and expansive on the palate, offering bitter cherry, blackberry and spicecake flavors that become livelier and sweeter with air. Finishes smooth, broad and impressively long, with delivering building spiciness and harmonious tannins that lend gentle grip to the intense berry fruit. |
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