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    Armand Rousseau

    Usually mentioned in the same breadth as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leroy, Armand Rousseau has established itself as a legendary producer owning mostly Grand Cru vineyards in Gevrey Chambertin.

     

    Born in 1884 to a family deeply entrenched in the wine trade, Armand Rousseau inherited several plots and the current domaine building, one of the oldest in Gevrey-Chambertin, as part of his wedding in 1909. After acquiring more plots in Charmes-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche and Chambertin in the late 1910s and 1920s, the domaine became one of the first in Burgundy to bottle his own wine. Rousseau’s wines were also amongst the first to hit the shores of the United States after the Prohibition, and his focus on exporting his wine is shared by his son Charles, who took over the reins in 1959 after Armand was unfortunately killed in a car accident. Today, the domaine is run by Charles’s son, Eric, who is also the winemaker.



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    Burgundy 1 19 (JR) HK$6,695.00
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    Jancis Robinson (19)

    Seems to show a little more darkness of oak spice and be less bright fruited than the Mazis. Dark imposing power and massive concentration on the palate though the fruit is sweeter than I expected in the mouth. Still a firm, deep, seriously handsome devil. Sweet at heart but strong and well built. Depth, length and with firm tannins that are massive rather than grainy.
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    Burgundy 1 93-95 (VN) HK$9,625.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is highly perfumed on the nose, presenting an irresistible mixture of red and subtle blue fruit, very harmonious and exquisitely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. A feminine and very elegant Clos de la Roche that may well be earlier-drinking than others but feels very poised, with a touch of spice on the finish. Excellent.
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    Burgundy 1 93-95 (VN) HK$7,730.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a quintessential nose for this vineyard, quite flamboyant yet still with that Rousseau sense of control and elegance, a melange of red and black fruit, touches of wet stone and undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, fine weight and density, veering more towards the red fruit profile with a dash of black pepper on the finish. This was once the weak card in Rousseau's pack. That is the case no longer.
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    Burgundy 2 93-95 (VN) HK$8,150.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    The 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is fragrant, delineated and coiled up at first, although it only takes a few swirls of the glass before it awakens. Crushed stone infuses the red fruit, and hints of oyster shells emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied and very cohesive, with finely-chiselled tannins and just a little confit red fruit that enlivens the finish, which demonstrates more persistence than the Mazy-Chambertin. Delightful.
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    Burgundy 1 - HK$6,700.00
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    Burgundy 1 97 (VN) HK$22,060.00
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    Vinous (97)

    Many years ago I bought two or three bottles of the 1985 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru for a price that now begs belief. All of them were poured for two people: my wife and I. This last bottle is sublime. That same old spellbinding nose that envelops the senses, quite lush in keeping with the vintages, beautifully defined with traces of hung game creeping in. There is great tannic structure here, again, just a little gaminess towards the finish, but so elegant and refined that you instantly fall for its charms. Tasted at home in Guildford.
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    Burgundy 1 95 (VN) HK$30,990.00
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    Vinous (95)

    Eric and Charles Rousseau did no wrong in 1993. This 1993 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has blossomed in recent years. Showing some bricking on the rim, it has a captivating bouquet of raspberry, pomegranate, wet limestome and bay leaf, somehow effortless in style. The palate is taut and fresh with impressive focus, not the most powerful that I have encountered but as I commented before, there is a nonchalance about this wine that leaves you hooked. Tasted alongisde the Chambertin at a private dinner in London.
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    Burgundy 1 95 (VN) HK$20,830.00
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    Vinous (95)

    The 1996 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, at 25 years old, offers dark cherries and bay leaf, traits I have noticed before, but here I found a touch of Earl Grey and, with aeration, a heightened marine/oyster shell scent. The palate is beautifully balanced and still exudes wonderful, life-affirming transparency. A little rugged on the finish, like most of Rousseau’s 1996s, but fresh as a daisy and so sapid. What more could I want from this Rousseau, except a market price that does not oblige secretly selling my daughter’s entire collection of ultra-rare Pokémon cards on eBay? Tasted at a private dinner in Mayfair.
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    Burgundy 1 17.5 (JR) HK$15,995.00
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    Jancis Robinson (17.5)

    Strawberry, dark cherry, lengthy finish and relatively firm tannin. Balanced and elegant but incredibly reticent on the nose and that leaves it too evasive for my preferences.
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    Burgundy 1 91-94 (VN (ST)) HK$12,865.00
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    Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (91-94)

    (this cuvee, the Clos de Beze and the Chambertin are aged in 100% new barriques Good bright red. Explosive, perfumed nose offers black raspberry, cassis, rose petal and spicy oak. Juicy, floral and aromatic in the mouth, with cassis and violet flavors that are sweetened but not overwhelmed by the new oak. Very dense, chewy, rich wine with superb persistence. This wine also showed a strong cassis character in vintages 1999 and 1996, notes Corinne.
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    Burgundy 4 92 (BH) HK$12,565.00
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    Burghound (92)

    An equally fresh if perhaps not quite as ripe nose of red fruit and mineral-infused aromas of surpassing complexity introduce delicious, intense and slightly firmer medium full flavors that culminate in a subtly persistent finish. This is refined and exceptionally pure and while it is on the lighter side, the focus, detail and precision is extremely impressive. Like the Ruchottes, this trades on elegance and refinement yet there is no lack of flavor authority despite the absence of raw size and weight.
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    Burgundy 3 97 (WA) HK$21,550.00
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    Wine Advocate (97)

    One of the great renditions of this cuvée in recent times is the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques, a magical wine that unfurls in the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of red berries and plums mingled with hints of raw cocoa, violets, blood orange and peony, complemented by enticing carnal bass notes. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's seamless and complete, with fine concentration, racy but ripe acids and ample reserves of fine, powdery tannin, concluding with a long and sapid finish. The 2005 Clos Saint-Jacques is a decade away from full maturity, but its reference-point quality has long been impossible to miss. This bottle, enjoyed in a Burgundian restaurant, only amplified my regret that I have none of this particular vintage in my own cellar.
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    Burgundy 1 95 (WS) HK$12,145.00
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    Wine Spectator (95)

    Packed with sweet fruit, this silky red exudes cherry, strawberry, licorice, sandalwood and mineral aromas and flavors. Despite its intensity, this remains lithe and refined, with excellent harmony and resonance on the long finish. Best from 2012 through 2024. 50 cases imported. -BS
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    Burgundy 1 92-94 (VN (ST)) HK$13,890.00
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    Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (92-94)

    Good bright, deep red. Highly perfumed aromas of blackberry, cherry, red licorice, rose petal, violet and spices, plus a suggestion of honey. Silky, intensely flavored and classy on the palate, with a compellingly perfumed quality that carries through to the mounting, palate-staining finish. Displays the electric quality of the vintage's better examples. This was 12.2% natural alcohol, chaptalized to 13%.
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    Burgundy 1 97 (VN) HK$16,035.00
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    Vinous (97)

    I must confess, I had some misgivings about opening Rousseau’s 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques, as I feared it might not be ready to drink. Those concerns were quickly dispelled as soon as I tasted it. From the very beginning, the 2010 Clos St. Jacques is a total stunner. Deep and beautifully layered, with exquisite aromatics and tons of class, the 2010 is one of the wines of the night. Sure, the 2010 will be even better in a few years, or maybe even decades, but it is flat-out gorgeous today. What a wine!
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    Burgundy 1 97 (VN) HK$22,985.00
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    Vinous (97)

    The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has more fruit intensity than Jean-Marie Fourrier's (implying just a slightly later picking, perhaps), offering copious black plum, raspberry, sous-bois and subtle tobacco scents that are beautifully defined. The palate totally delivers: harmonious, succinct, beautifully structured, with perfect acidity that imparts a disarming sense of symmetry, and brilliantly articulated terroir expression on the sustained finish. Bon vin, très bon vin. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.
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    Burgundy 1 97 (VN) HK$13,200.00
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    Vinous (97)

    The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is blessed with a bouquet of real pedigree: very complex mixture of red and black brambly fruit, sous-bois, crushed stone and rose petal aromas. The harmony and delineation is outstanding. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, pliant tannins that lend this Clos Saint-Jacques symmetry and poise. Fresh and vibrant, it never relinquishes any of its breeding and tension. The finish is persistent and utterly captivating. Fabulous. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.
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    Burgundy 1 95-97 (VN) HK$11,750.00
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    Vinous (95-97)

    The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a very perfumed bouquet, beautifully defined with fragrant raspberry preserve, wild strawberry, rose petal and crushed granite aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with velvety tannin. It is not a powerful Clos Saint-Jacques nor the most complex, yet it is utterly harmonious and so silky smooth on the finish that you will find this nigh irresistible. Sensual and gunning for top position amongst the five Clos Saint-Jacques growers in this vintage.
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    Burgundy 1 96-98 (VN) HK$12,365.00
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    Vinous (96-98)

    The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has an exquisite bouquet that offers transparent red fruit, fine mineralité, sous-bois, and a sense of vivacity and focus that this vineyard has above all over premier crus. The harmonious palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, orange peel and a velvety-smooth finish. Superb.
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    Burgundy 1 96 (BH) HK$16,955.00
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    Burghound (96)

    (Outstanding) Here too there is just enough wood to warrant mentioning framing the exceptionally spicy red berry fruit and floral-suffused aromas. There is fine density to the sleekly muscular and intense flavors that are blessed with fine mid-palate concentration on the tightly wound and sneaky long finish that is both balanced and notably firm, and which should enable this to evolve and improve for at least two decades. There is a hint of warmth but it's not enough to really detract from the overall sense of harmony. In a word, impressive.
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    Burgundy 7 96-98 (VN) HK$17,470.00
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    Vinous (96-98)

    The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a spellbinding bouquet, very complex, a nose that you cannot drag your nose away from. Precocious red berry fruit intermixed by crushed stone and sous-bois. The palate is sensual on the entry, quite lush red fruit, filigree tannins, perfectly balanced and poised on the finish that lingers longer than forever. Stunning.
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    Burgundy 1 93-96 (IB) HK$11,210.00
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    Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)

    Fine mid purple colour. Already the oak (80% new wood) adds an extra level of intensity but clearly there is a wealth of fruit too. A burst of divine sweet fruit greets the back of the palate, long and lovely. Drink from 2028-2036.
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    Burgundy 1 87-89 (VN) HK$8,040.00
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    Vinous (87-89)

    Good red-ruby. Wilder aromas of red and black fruits and coffee. Juicy and tightly wound, with good structure for the vintage. Lifted by a violet florality. Finishes fresh and firmly tannic.
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    Burgundy 1 92-94 (VN) HK$6,725.00
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    Vinous (92-94)

    The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has disarming purity and transparency on the nose, where pressed rose filters through the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. Fleshy and quite corpulent compared to other vintages, with a long spicy aftertaste. Excellent.
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    Burgundy 3 92-94 (VN) HK$6,455.00
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    Vinous (92-94)

    The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has wonderful transparency on the nose of red currant and wild strawberry, plus glimpses of orange blossom and rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, lightly spiced and quite peppery in the mouth. Fine grip and length. This is a lovely Lavaux that will be difficult to resist in its youth.
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    Burgundy 5 90-92 (VN) HK$7,620.00
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    Vinous (90-92)

    The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a mineral-driven bouquet with dark berry fruit, sous-bois and just a touch of dessicated orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. Is it the most complex Lavaux? Maybe not, though it has an attractive juiciness mixed with sapidity that keeps you coming back for more.
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    Burgundy 1 - HK$8,575.00
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    Burgundy 1 88-90 (VN) HK$10,700.00
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    Vinous (88-90)

    Good deep red with ruby highlights. Dark raspberry and licorice on the nose, complicated by musky herbs, menthol, leather and game. Then less sweet and more medicinal in the mouth than the Lavaux, displaying distinctly darker flavors. In a more masculine style, finishing with tougher tannins. The vines here average 55 years of age, making them the oldest of the estate.
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    Burgundy 1 86-89 (VN) HK$7,470.00
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    Vinous (86-89)

    Medium red. Aromatic nose combines red fruits, coffee and meat. Sweet and fine; offers lovely pinot noir tang and sap. High-quality village wine, atypically strong for this cuvee
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    Burgundy 1 91+ (WA) HK$7,510.00
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    Wine Advocate (91+)

    Tasted from bottle, Rousseau's 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Village opens in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of wild berry fruit, plums, peonies and orange rind mingled with suggestions of forest floor and cedar. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and sapid, with lively acids, good depth at the core and fine structuring tannins that subtly assert themselves on the finish. Even this communal bottling—which contains declassified premier cru fruit—is quite introverted at this stage, and readers with bottles in their cellars are advised to forget them for the better part of a decade.
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