Comtes Lafon
Domaine des Comtes Lafon began in 1869 with vines in some of the best plots in Mersualt, Volnay and Le Montrachet. This family estate has been run by Dominique Lafon since 1985. He ended share cropping, key to their surging quality, with some of the best white and great red wine. Their cellars are the deepest in Burgundy.
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Vinous (93+)
(bottled the day before my visit; aged in 40% new oak): Complex, vibrant aromas of peach, orange zest and lemon accented by white pepper. Rich, ripe, tactile and sweet, with the intense citrus and stone fruit flavors accented by peppery spices and complicated by vanilla and leesy nuances. A very good showing today, but this is still a baby.HK$5,450.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95)
(5-Star Wine) An attractive faint green tint to the colour. The nose shows no signs of heat or heaviness. This is magical on the palate, absolutely fills the mouth, ripe lemons on top of rich pear fruit, but nothing peachy or over-ripe. A brilliant example of Charmes, as the vineyard and the vintage are completely in harmony. Drink from 2026-2035.HK$5,185.00 -
Vinous (92+)
Perfumed aromas of hazelnut, lime and spice. Rich but racy and stylish; youthful and minerally. Rather elegantly styled wine, quite precise for the vintage. Very long on the finish. Lafon now uses just 50% new oak for his Genevrieres; as recently as 1992, this was made in all new barrels.HK$4,590.00 -
Vinous (97)
The 2010 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru is one of Dominique Lafon's finest offerings from this noble vineyard in recent years, echoing Stephen Tanzer's finding from his vertical in 2019. It has an electrifying bouquet with such intense mineralité that it threatens to overwhelm the senses. The palate is beautifully balanced with a killer line of acidity, just a twist of bitter lemon lending tension, and a judicious touch of creaminess on the detailed finish. Ludicrously brilliant.HK$10,080.00 -
Vinous (92-94)
The 2020 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has quite a rich bouquet with tropical tones, maybe to the detriment of the mineralité that is slightly masked at the moment. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, quite saline, lightly spiced with a vibrant finish that finally delivers the spiciness. Maybe pipped by the Les Charmes this year, this is a classy but not peak Perrières. Bottled under Diam 30. Closure: Diam 30HK$6,925.00 -
Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (93-96)
Exotic aromas of pineapple, orange zest, iodine and menthol. Then wonderfully fat and nectar-like, with rare depth of fruit for the vintage. Boasts great richness without any heaviness. Really expands in the mouth and goes on and on on the very long, dry finish. Among the strongest 2004 samples I tasted on my most recent trip.HK$28,110.00 -
Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (94-97)
Superripe aromas of pear, peach, clove and smoked meat. Very ripe and highly concentrated, conveying a chewy impression of solidity. Wonderfully tactile wine, and yet there's terrific spine and verve here. Quite explosive on the mounting, utterly vibrant finish.HK$23,915.00 -
Vinous (98)
The 2010 Montrachet Grand Cru is a spectacular wine that fulfills all its potential. The bouquet rivets you to the spot with yellow flowers, hints of honeysuckle and petrichor, with aeration becoming a little petrol-like. The palate is brimming over with nervous energy. There is incredible depth, real thrust to this Montrachet that just lacquers the senses, yet it is only just beginning to demonstrate what it can do. Wow. Bravo Mon. Lafon. Tasted at Noble Rot's Xmas dinner.HK$33,195.00 -
Wine Advocate (98)
Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has a clean and fresh bouquet, perhaps just a bit too much lime for my liking, although there is mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry with a superb line of acidity. There is weight and presence to this Montrachet, and it gains weight and delivers a knockout, extremely persistent finish tinged with lemon thyme and sherbet. Though a little disjointed at present, I suspect this will turn into a wonderful Montrachet with style and class. But be warned that it will require several years in bottle.HK$38,705.00 -
Wine Advocate (96-98)
The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is a classic in the making, wafting from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, citrus blossom, green apple, mandarin and beeswax, subtly framed by new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, beautifully complete and multidimensional, with a broad, satiny attack, a deep, layered mid-palate and a pure, penetrating finish. Youthfully reserved today, its almost understated elegance conceals impressive reserved of structure and extract.HK$31,745.00 -
Jancis Robinson (19)
Tank sample. Mid lemon. Huge weight, breadth and depth. Spice and real volume and intensity of flavour. Forceful and immediately imposing simply by the size of its style. Tremendous white wine. Honed, dense and focused. (MH)HK$30,740.00