Ponsot
About Domaine Ponsot
Founded by a soldier returning home from the Franco-Prussian War in 1872, radical thinking and revolutionary ideas seem to be something of a family trait. The current eccentric Ponsot at the helm of this fabulous estate is Laurent, who is making wildly unique yet utterly Burgundian wines from some of the finest Grands Crus in the entire region.
The Winemaking
Although classified as neither biodynamic nor organic, he uses no insecticide or pesticide on his vines that are an average of 50 years old. To ensure quality, the label is unique for having a white spot that turns grey if the bottle has been subjected to extreme temperatures.
Laurent Ponsot studies the moon and the stars (he is not an astronomer), and their effect on the rhythm of life in the vineyards. A holistic approach that sees him lean heavily towards low intervention winemaking techniques to respect this natural harmony. The faintest touch of sulfur is afforded to the grapes upon picking if absolutely necessary, and there is no sorting table in his winery. Once pressed, the liquid is essentially allowed to ferment whenever it wishes for as long as it wishes. Once the wines have achieved the requisite state of their own accord, they may or may not be racked in the following spring or summer depending on the cycle of the moon.
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Wine Advocate (93)
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes offers up lovely aromas of red plums, rose petals and candied peel that mingle with incipient savory nuances of grilled squab and forest floor. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with excellent concentration, fine-grained and chalky tannins, and above all a bright, vibrant quality that lends this Morey fabulous definition. It will need some time, as it's much more tight-knit than the Morey village.HK$7,860.00 -
Wine Advocate (92+)
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes is also performing well from bottle, unfurling to reveal aromas of raspberries, cherries and sweet berries mingled with hints of orange rind, dark chocolate and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's fleshier and more concentrated than its communal sibling. Built around powdery tannins and succulent acids, it concludes with a longer, more mineral finish.HK$8,040.00 -
HK$4,260.00
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HK$6,965.00
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Wine Advocate (91-93+)
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes opens in the glass with notes of plums, cherries, raw cocoa, cinnamon and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly gourmand, with lively acids and a precise, mineral finish. As usual, this hails entirely from the Clos de Monts Luisants, but the domaine opts not to mention the lieu-dit on the label to avoid confusion with their emblematic white wine from the same vineyard.HK$2,110.00 -
Wine Advocate (91-93+)
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes opens in the glass with notes of plums, cherries, raw cocoa, cinnamon and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly gourmand, with lively acids and a precise, mineral finish. As usual, this hails entirely from the Clos de Monts Luisants, but the domaine opts not to mention the lieu-dit on the label to avoid confusion with their emblematic white wine from the same vineyard.HK$6,650.00 -
HK$3,510.00
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HK$8,680.00
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Vinous (92-94)
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée Allouettes was cropped at just 8hL/ha and had only finished its malo before my visit. Nevertheless, this has a harmonious and engaging bouquet, very pure with black cherries, raspberry confit and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, cohesive and gently gripping in the mouth. Maybe another vintage would have bestowed more tension and precision on the finish? Yet it remains an engaging and classy Morey.HK$4,080.00 -
Vinous (89-91)
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Grives comes from shallow soils, the vines here are 16 years old. This possesses much more complexity and terroir expression on the nose than the Gevrey, sous-bois and truffle permeate the red fruit, with good vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh and smooth with lightly spiced dark cherry and orange zest notes on the finish. Lovely.HK$3,085.00 -
HK$4,260.00
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HK$4,795.00
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HK$3,900.00