Ponsot
About Domaine Ponsot
Founded by a soldier returning home from the Franco-Prussian War in 1872, radical thinking and revolutionary ideas seem to be something of a family trait. The current eccentric Ponsot at the helm of this fabulous estate is Laurent, who is making wildly unique yet utterly Burgundian wines from some of the finest Grands Crus in the entire region.
The Winemaking
Although classified as neither biodynamic nor organic, he uses no insecticide or pesticide on his vines that are an average of 50 years old. To ensure quality, the label is unique for having a white spot that turns grey if the bottle has been subjected to extreme temperatures.
Laurent Ponsot studies the moon and the stars (he is not an astronomer), and their effect on the rhythm of life in the vineyards. A holistic approach that sees him lean heavily towards low intervention winemaking techniques to respect this natural harmony. The faintest touch of sulfur is afforded to the grapes upon picking if absolutely necessary, and there is no sorting table in his winery. Once pressed, the liquid is essentially allowed to ferment whenever it wishes for as long as it wishes. Once the wines have achieved the requisite state of their own accord, they may or may not be racked in the following spring or summer depending on the cycle of the moon.
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Burgundy | 1 | 18 (JR) | HK$11,080.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18)From Corton-Paulands, but it includes Corton-Bressandes in 2012. Lip-smacking nose – very appealing. Masses of ripe fruit and juice. Lots of energy and fruity excitement. Crackling impact. Much more vital than the average Corton. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-91 (WA) | HK$9,735.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (89-91)The 2014 Corton Grand Cru Cuvée de Bourdon has quite a complex bouquet, the initial rush of redcurrant and cranberry fruit followed quickly by marine/sea spray aromas, flint and limestone very subtle but there underneath. I like the definition and the focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit. There is a seam of spice here, bitter red cherry, some hardness apropos that tannin towards the finish that needs a little more flesh. That may develop by the end of its élevage. This is broody, capricious Corton, but I would like to see more charm. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-91 (VN) | HK$9,235.00 | |||||
Vinous (89-91)(from Clos du Roi and the grand cru portion of Les Paulands, plus a bit of Perrières): Bright, full red. Sexy carnal scents of plum, red cherry and spices. Then quite dry and uncompromising on the palate, showing more soil than primary fruit today. In a rather strict style and tough going at present. Finishes with substantial, slightly drying tannins. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93+ (WA) | HK$9,625.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-93+)The 2017 Corton Grand Cru Cuvée du Bourdon unfurls to reveal a classy bouquet of ripe cherries, licorice, spices and candied violets, with little hint of the savory complexity to come. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tangy and youthfully firm, with a lovely line of acidity underpinning its concentrated core of fruit. Abel observes that efforts have been made to render this cuvée in a more elegant register, all the while retaining the distinctive profile and aging potential of these vineyards. This year's blend is composed of some 60% Les Paulands, 20% Les Perrières and 20% Clos du Roi. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$9,625.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 3 | - | HK$11,210.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (WA) | HK$10,690.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-93)The 2013 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru is much more flattering on the nose than the Cuvée de Bourdon at the moment, exuding liveliness and precision courtesy of bright red Morello cherries and wild raspberry fruit. The palate is well balanced, fresh and tense with palpable mineralité and tension, sporting great finesse on the finish. This is a sophisticated Corton-Bressandes in the making. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 90-93 (VN) | HK$12,715.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-93)(this fruit comes from the same source as the Cuvée du Bourdon): Good deep red. Sexy cherry and spice aromas complicated by alluring soil tones. Still a touch of reduction on the palate, but clearly a much sweeter and more generous wine than the Cuvée du Bourdon, with dense, well-delineated raspberry, spice and soil tones saturating the mouth and echoing on the finish. This firmly structured, sappy wine boasts notably ripe tannins and an attractive chewiness. Domaine Ponsot has made this wine since 1989. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$13,585.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2017 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru offers straightforward brambly red berry aromas with subtle hints of tea leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin, missing just a touch of flesh in the middle, and a firm, quite strict saline finish. Not bad, although I think there is better to come in subsequent vintages. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$15,495.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$14,810.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$21,280.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 | HK$19,245.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 90 (WA) | HK$21,770.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90)Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru from Laurent Ponsot has a voluminous nose, though there is a stalky element that is not totally combined with the black and red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, quite linear in the mouth, structured but like the Griotte-Chambertin 2012 from Réné Leclerc, it seems to be lacking some flesh and charm towards the finish. That said, it does develop in the glass, offering hidden notes of blueberry and a hint of crème de cassis, so I would advise not broaching a bottle for two or three years. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (WA) | HK$18,840.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-93)The 2013 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, touches of mulberry and briary. It is a relatively conservative Griotte compared to others tasted from barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth. A little fuller than the Charmes-Chambertin '13 with fine backbone, this feels chewier, but with plenty of substance on the finish. This is a gutsy Griotte, but it will mellow by the time it is bottled. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (WA) | HK$21,610.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93-95)The 2014 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru is certainly not as immediate as that temptress, the 2014 Charmes-Chambertin. This insists upon more coaxing from the glass, more swirling to eke out those attractive scents of blackberry, raspberry preserve and rose petals, all very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe, sappy red berry fruit. There is pleasant tang of sour cherry here, even a hint of licorice on the finish that has more density than the Charmes-Chambertin, if not quite the nascent Charmes. Give it 4-6 years in bottle and then I think you might have a serious Griotte on your hands. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-95 (BH) | HK$27,750.00 | |||||
Burghound (92-95)A wonderfully spicy, elegant and fresh nose blends notes of red and dark cherry with those of cassis, plum, violet and discreet earth nuances. The intense and tautly muscular middle weight plus flavors are even more refined if perhaps not quite as mineral-driven while delivering superb length on the balanced but markedly austere finish where a touch of cherry pit emerges. This is also very clearly built-to-age and I wouldn't dream of touching a bottle for at least 10 years and it should easily reward 20. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 89-92 (BH) | HK$7,820.00 | |||||
Burghound (89-92)This offers more aromatic complexity if not quite the same elegance with its ripe nose of plum, cassis, violets and earth nuances. There is good volume to the supple, round and wonderfully seductive flavors that possess a gorgeous mouth feel before terminating in a long balanced and equally complex finish. This is excellent and very stylish as well. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (WA) | HK$8,210.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90-92)The 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvee des Allouettes, which comes from within the Mont Luisants vineyard, has a quite precocious bouquet with blackcurrant, boysenberry and light Hoi Sin scents that unfold nicely in the glass. The palate is solid and dense with firm, quite grippy tannins. There is plenty of energy and tension here with touches of spice and soy lining the ebullient finish. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (WA) | HK$6,815.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90-92)The 2014 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Allouettes has an introspective bouquet. There is something steely about this: cold metal, copper piping underneath the transparent red berry fruit. The palate is quite harmonious on the entry. There is a taut line of acidity here, clean and crisp, very linear with touches of bitter cherry towards the finish. There is something moody about this Morey-Saint-Denis, which may well be its way of saying that it needs to be cellared for 3-5 years. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$8,070.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes offers up lovely aromas of red plums, rose petals and candied peel that mingle with incipient savory nuances of grilled squab and forest floor. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with excellent concentration, fine-grained and chalky tannins, and above all a bright, vibrant quality that lends this Morey fabulous definition. It will need some time, as it's much more tight-knit than the Morey village. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92+ (WA) | HK$8,120.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (92+)The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes is also performing well from bottle, unfurling to reveal aromas of raspberries, cherries and sweet berries mingled with hints of orange rind, dark chocolate and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's fleshier and more concentrated than its communal sibling. Built around powdery tannins and succulent acids, it concludes with a longer, more mineral finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$7,020.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93+ (WA) | HK$6,670.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (91-93+)The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes opens in the glass with notes of plums, cherries, raw cocoa, cinnamon and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly gourmand, with lively acids and a precise, mineral finish. As usual, this hails entirely from the Clos de Monts Luisants, but the domaine opts not to mention the lieu-dit on the label to avoid confusion with their emblematic white wine from the same vineyard. |
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Burgundy | 3 | - | HK$8,675.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$5,995.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 90 (WA) | HK$5,995.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90)The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Grives is very pretty this vintage, offering up lovely aromas of sweet red cherry, strawberry and peony. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, fine-grained and silky textured, with an expansive attack and notable structural amplitude. This is classic Ponsot. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$4,260.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$4,760.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 4 | - | HK$3,890.00 | |||||
