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    Henri Bonneau

    About Henri Bonneau

    Born in 1938 and crafting the most extraordinary expressions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape well into his eighth decade, Henri Bonneau was a true legend in the Rhône. Considered by many to be the last of the “old guard”, Bonneau was as humble and true to his roots as his wines were transcendent and opulent.

    A visit to his winery was far removed from the manicured lawns and elegant rose gardens of Bordeaux, but more akin to visiting namesake and fellow vinous legend Henri Jayer in Burgundy. Jeff Leve once joked that the most modern item owned by Bonneau was an Art Nouveau door to the entrance of his winery from the 1920s!

    Consistently proving that sometimes, the old ways are the best, Bonneau produced some of the greatest wines ever seen in the Rhône during his tenure, chief amongst which is the otherworldly Réserve des Célestins 1990.

    “One of the greatest wines ever produced ... anywhere ... is the 1990. Having consistently merited 100 points (if my scoring system went higher, it would be there)”
    Robert M. Parker Jr.

    Viniculture

    The prestige cuvée of Henri Bonneau as well as its most famous, Réserve des Célestins is a blend of around 90% Grenache with a varying mélange of other Rhône varietals rounding out proceedings. Whole cluster fermentation is carried out in traditional concrete vats before the wine is aged for 3-5 years in old French foudres and barrels. Released in only the very best vintages, Bonneau used to adapt his vinification methodology in response to vintage conditions and fruit characteristics quite significantly vintage-to-vintage – each version of this wine is utterly unique.



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    Product Name Region Qty Score Price
    Rhone 1 94 (VN) HK$43,865.00
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    Vinous (94)

    Deep ruby. High-pitched aromas of red berry liqueur, cherry pit, lavender and allspice, with a zesty mineral nuance adding vivacity. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering vibrant black raspberry and floral pastille flavors that become richer and spicier with aeration. Silky tannins give shape to the strikingly persistent finish, which features sappy dark berry and fruitcake qualities.
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    Rhone 10 95-96 (VN) HK$4,235.00
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    Vinous (95-96)

    Deep ruby. Seductive scents of ripe blackberry and boysenberry, singed plum and star anise, lifted by an intense floral topnote. Sweet, expansive dark fruit flavors show excellent concentration, with suggestions of licorice pastille and orange pith giving the wine an exotic character. Shows outstanding clarity and power on the extremely long finish, which is shaped by smooth, slow-building tannins.
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    Rhone 2 93-95 (VN) HK$40,115.00
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    Vinous (93-95)

    Bright ruby-red. Far more expressive than the Marie Beurrier, displaying a wild array of candied red fruits, flowers and Asian spices, along with an intense mineral overtone. Silky, sweet and pure on the palate, offering intense raspberry preserve and spicecake flavors and a jolt of lavender pastille. Closes long and sweet, with building spiciness and smooth, harmonious tannins that sneak up late.
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    Rhone 2 94-96 (WA) HK$18,795.00
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    Wine Advocate (94-96)

    According to Marcel Bonneau on this visit, all of the 2012 wine will be bottled as Reserve des Celestins. Tasted from barrel, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins flirts with that fine line between deep, chocolaty richness and raisiny over-ripeness. This is full-bodied and powerful but silky at the same time. If it's bottled soon, it should be amazing.
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    Rhone 1 - HK$30,110.00
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    Rhone 1 - HK$16,910.00
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    Rhone 1 98 (JD) HK$20,160.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (98)

    I loved this cuvée from barrel in 2017, and the 2016 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvee Celestins certainly impresses from bottle today. Purchased while I was in the Rhône, it offers a liquid Provence-like vibe in its garrigue-laced red and black fruits, candied flowers, pepper, saddle leather, and who knows what else aromatics. Rich, powerful, and concentrated on the palate, it brings serious ripeness, sweet tannins, and a slightly lifted, exotic style that opens up beautifully with time in the glass. It will evolve for over two decades.
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    Rhone 1 98 (JD) HK$8,165.00
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    Jeb Dunnuck (98)

    I loved this cuvée from barrel in 2017, and the 2016 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvee Celestins certainly impresses from bottle today. Purchased while I was in the Rhône, it offers a liquid Provence-like vibe in its garrigue-laced red and black fruits, candied flowers, pepper, saddle leather, and who knows what else aromatics. Rich, powerful, and concentrated on the palate, it brings serious ripeness, sweet tannins, and a slightly lifted, exotic style that opens up beautifully with time in the glass. It will evolve for over two decades.
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    Rhone 1 - HK$19,230.00
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    Rhone 1 - HK$42,465.00
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    Rhone 2 - HK$25,510.00
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